How to get rid of unwanted plants in the garden?

Natural Weed Killer: How to Get Rid of Unwanted Grass and Weed

These five remedies could help you eradicate unwanted grass and weed in the garden.

How to Get Rid of Grass & Weeds

1. Apply Organic Weed Killer
Apply an organic herbicide, such as the Avenger weed Killer, to the target area. The Avenger weed killer concentrate is made of natural material, such as oranges and lemons.

Past customers have mentioned that a 3:1 dilution of the organic weed killer concentrate works well for eradicating established grass and weeds.

2. Saturate Grassy Area with Vinegar
Diluted Vinegar can be used, instead of harmful chemicals, to kill grass. Vinegar, however, can kill other plants so do not spray it near any plants you want to keep.

3. Conduct Soil Solarization
Solarization is the process of using the sun to kill unwanted grass and weed. The best time of year to try this is during the summer. You will need to cut the grass to a very short height then cover the grassy area with clear plastic. After two or three months, the grass will eventually die due to the increase in soil temperature.

4. Add a Thick Layer of Mulch
Adding mulch is a great way to turn an area into a fertile, nutrient-rich area. Adding mulch can also eradicate grass and weed by restricting access to sunlight and air.

5. Pour Boiling Water
Boiling water is a temporary solution to killing grass and weed. You may need to pour hot water multiple times before the grass dies out.

Sam Choan is the Founder of Organic Lesson. He started this site to share tips on using natural remedies at home when such options are available.

How to remove unwanted Plants from the garden easily [closed]

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Killing Large Patches of Brushy Weeds

Why Battle Brushy Weeds
In many natural settings, brushy weeds aren’t true weeds. In urban landscapes, though, they frequently become problems. Removing these pesky plants isn’t for the faint of heart, but it can become necessary when brushy weeds:

  • threaten to overrun desirable plants
  • harbor ticks or other problem wildlife
  • provide tinder for wildfires
  • restrict movement through an area
  • occupy the spot where you want to add a planting bed
  • pose a threat to health

Tips for Beating Brushy Weeds

The most important secret to eradicating brushy weeds is to do your homework. Different plants respond to different techniques. Before you choose a tactic, identify and research the plant you’re battling.

Grab an herbicide. Plant-killing chemicals, or herbicides, are one of the best weapons against brushy weeds, because they can kill leaves, stems and roots when applied properly. They’re especially helpful when you’re faced with a large weedy area. In many cases, you’ll achieve best success when you combine herbicides with other weed control methods.

Timing is key when applying herbicides; follow label instructions carefully. Most brush killer herbicides also kill desirable plants, so protect existing vegetation when spraying.

Hand-dig, pull, hoe. This approach requires little more than common garden tools and elbow grease. Hand-digging weeds works best with smaller shrubs, non-woody stemmed vines or bunching perennial grasses. It also can be effective with young starts of larger plants, such as small saplings or vines.

Utilize these techniques when soil is moist to enable easy root excavation. When digging plants, remove as much of the root system as possible to prevent resprouting.

Disking. For larger areas, like pastures, turning vegetation into soil with a disk harrow can effectively eliminate some brushy weeds. You can achieve the same results in smaller spaces using a rototiller. For dense vegetation, use a rotary mower (brush hog) to cut plants before turning soil. Avoid turning soil when dealing with weeds like Thistle, Cocklebur, Bermudagrass (wiregrass) or Johnsongrass. These weeds can spread more aggressively when soil is disturbed.

Mow ’em down. Mowing, or brush hogging, is often used to remove brushy weeds. In colder zones, frequent mowing can eventually control some brushy weeds. In regions where plants grow year-round, mowing alone rarely provides effective control – it mostly hides the problem. Mowing can also backfire with certain plants, like sSumac, Honey Locust or Osage Orange. After cutting, these plants resprout with even more shoots.

Get some goats. On Western grazing lands and fire-prone areas, landowners use goats to devour brushy weeds, including bBlackberry, Thistle and Poison Oak. Goats browse heavily and indiscriminately, so they’re most effective in larger areas that lack manicured landscaping.

Corral roots. Sometimes you can confine brushy weeds to a particular area by installing a root barrier, such as thick plastic or landscape fabric infused with an herbicide (Biobarrier, for example). Root barriers don’t provide effective long-term control. Roots eventually find their way through or under them.

Smother plants. A layer of black plastic can effectively kill many brushy weeds, depriving them of necessary sunlight. Make sure edges are firmly anchored for best results.

Learn more about common brushy weeds.

How to remove tough tree stumps and roots

Stump grinders are readily available for hire, but they are quite large and – like all motor-operated machines – potentially dangerous. If you suffer from poor mobility or poor eyesight, it’s best to give this option a miss or employ a contractor to take care of it for you.

If you do decide to hire a stump grinder and do the work yourself, make sure that you tell the company you’re renting it from the exact size of the stump you’re planning to remove – they’ll be able to advise you whether the machine you’re renting is appropriate for the task, or whether you’ll need to call a professional in.

Make sure that they run through the controls with you in detail – and do take all the recommended necessary safety precautions.

It’s worth thinking ahead about what you’ll do with the sawdust that the grinder leaves behind. If the original tree was diseased, you’ll want to arrange for this to be removed from your property, but otherwise, it can be used for mulch elsewhere in the garden.

Using A Stump Killer

While leaving a stump to decay in its own time carries risks of infestation and infection, there are steps you can take to accelerate the process without resorting to hiring contractors or heavy machinery.

Stump killers contain active ingredients that work similarly to weed killer. Absorbed by the remaining stump, they prevent regrowth and therefore give you a valuable head start on the usually lengthy process of decomposition, killing it off entirely.

It’s best to use these products on freshly cut stumps when the surface cells will be most receptive to the treatment. You also want to avoid attempting this when the stump is wet, so it’s best to avoid days following heavy rainfall.

For smaller stumps, simply dilute the product with water and, wearing gloves to protect your skin, ‘paint’ it on to the cut surface using a clean brush.

Dealing with a particularly wide trunk? You can also drill into the top of the stump in a few places, and fill the resulting holes with more the diluted solution. This will help the product to penetrate the timber more quickly, speeding up the process of decay even further. Also, opening up the tree stump and letting in the air will also help the process.

When using a stump killer, a single application will usually work completely within about four to six weeks, meaning that the decomposition process can begin in earnest – a much-accelerated timescale.

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