How to get rid of burrs?

Learn More About Burr Medic And Its Control

If your lawn is filled with prickly burrs, you likely have burr weeds. With a little vigilance, however, it is possible to control burr medic and improve the health of your lawn. Read on to learn more.

What is Burr Medic?

Burr medic (Medicago polymorpha), also known as burr weed, is a type of trifoliate weed that can quickly spread throughout the lawn and garden if not controlled.

You can recognize this weed by its green serrated leaves and reddish-purple colored stems that creep closely along the ground. It also has small yellow flowers. After flowering, the tiny green pods produce prickly burrs. These will eventually dry up and turn brown, spreading seeds everywhere.

Burr medic germinates in fall and winter, and flowers in spring.

Types of Burr Weeds

There are several types of burr weeds, most of which can be

found growing in a wide range of conditions and soil types. However, burr medic seems to favor poor soils, such as heavy clay. Like other trifoliate weeds, such as clover, burr weed has leaves that are grouped together in threes.

Other burr species include:

  • Woolly medic (M. minima)
  • Spotted burr medic (M. arabica)
  • Barrel medic (M. truncatula)
  • Cut-leaved medic (M. laciniata)

How to Kill Burr Medic

Since burr medic spreads and reproduces by seed, the best way to control the weed is to remove it before it has a chance to set its seed, even better before it flowers.

While burr medic can be controlled with regular mowing, this will not kill the weed. It is also tolerant of most herbicides, though non-selective types can help kill the plant as well as boiling water. Neither of these, however, will kill the burrs that are left behind in the lawn or garden.

Therefore, you may want to use an old woolen blanket to drag over the area first, which should snag most of these burrs. Then the area can be treated with a pre-emergent, such as corn gluten meal, to prevent germination of any seeds left behind. Late summer or early fall is a good time to do this.

The use of broadleaf post-emergent weed killer, like Weed-B-Gone, prior to flowering (winter/early spring) can help as well.

Once burr medic has been eradicated, you’ll want to improve the health of your soil to minimize its return by amending it with organic matter or compost.

Note: Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and much more environmentally friendly.

Lichen

Common names- LichenLichens are made up of a biological composite of fungi and algae- one absorbing light for energy, the other absorbing moisture and minerals
Identifying features- Quite often resembles bird poop. Comes in varying shades of greens, yellows and oranges.
Commonly confused with- Nil
Ease of control- Algacide or Biocide

Mallow

Common names- Mallow/ Cheeseweed/ Cheeseplant
Botanical name- Malva neglecta
Identifying features- Fan-shaped leaves with tiny serrations
Commonly confused with- Dichondra/ Native Violet
Ease of control- Broad-leafed herbicide

Medic

Common names- Black Hay/ Blackweed/ Barrel Medic/ Barrel Clover/ Burr Clover/ Burr Medic
Botanical name- Medicago spp.
Identifying features- Tri-lobed leaf. Yellow flower.
Commonly confused with- Clover/ Oxalis
Ease of control- Most broad-leafed herbicides

Moss

Common names- Moss
Botanical name- N/A
Identifying features- Normally spongy vegetation
Commonly confused with- Nil
Ease of control- Algacide or Biocide

Mouse-eared Chickweed

Common names- mouse-ear chickweed, cerastium, clammy chickweed, clustered mouse ear, mouse-eared chickweed, sticky chickweed, sticky mouse-ear,
Botanical name- Cerastium glomeratum
Identifying features- Pale green, oval-shaped leaves which are also slightly hairy and sticky.
Commonly confused with- Common chickweed
Ease of control- Most broad-leafed herbicides

Mullumbimby Couch

Common names- Mullumbimby Couch
Botanical name- Cyperus brevifolius
Identifying features- Leaves are shiny, green and have stem with a triangular shaped cross section. Flowers look like hairy heads.
Commonly confused with- Nut Grass
Ease of control- Selective herbicides

Nutgrass

Common names- Nutgrass/ Java Grass/ Nut Sedge
Botanical name- Cyperus rotundus
Identifying features- Leaves are shiny, green and have stem with a triangular shaped cross section. Flowerhead is brown to purple in colour
Commonly confused with- Mullumbimby Couch
Ease of control- Selective herbicide

Oxalis

Common names- Sorrel/ Oxalis
Botanical name- Oxalis spp.
Identifying features- Tri-lobed leaves. Thin, fleshy stems
Commonly confused with- Clover/ Medic
Ease of control- Some broad-leafed herbicides

Paspalum

Common names- Sticky Heads/ Paspalum
Botanical name- Paspalum dilatatum
Identifying features- A dense, stiff, clumping grass with a spiky stem and green seed heads
Commonly confused with- Crab Grass
Ease of control- Selective herbicide

Pennywort

Common names- Indian Pennywort, Marsh Penny, Thick-leaved Pennywort, Dollarweed
Botanical name- Hydracotyl spp.
Identifying features- Normally bright green contrasting in colour and texture to other vegetation; can be spongey
Commonly confused with- Nil
Ease of control- Difficult. A blend of chemicals will take this out.

Petty Spurge

Common names- Radium Weed/ Cancer Weed/ Milk Weed
Botanical name- Euphorbia peplis
Identifying features- Milky sap
Commonly confused with- Mouse-eared Chickweed
Ease of control- Most broad-leafed herbicides

Pigweed

Common names- Pigweed/ Purslane/ Little Hogweed
Botanical name- Portulaca oleraceae
Identifying features- Thick, fleshy leaves
Commonly confused with- Portulaca
Ease of control- Some broad-leafed herbicidesSpecial notes- Can be eaten as a salad vegetable

Ribwort

Common names- Plantain/ Ribwort/ Buckhorn/ Lamb’s Tongue
Botanical name- Plantago lanceolata
Identifying features- long, dark green, ribbed leaves
Commonly confused with- Nil
Ease of control- Most broad-leafed herbicides

Richardia

Common names- Madder/ Field Madder
Botanical name- Richardia stellaris
Identifying features- Prostrate growth habit. White, star-shaped flowers set in a tight cluster.
Commonly confused with- Could be confused with Chickweed
Ease of control- Most broad-leafed herbicides

Scarlet Pimpernel

Common names- Scarlet Pimpernel/ Red Pimpernel/ Red Chickweed
Botanical name- Anagallis arvensis
Identifying features- Bright, orangey-red flowers
Commonly confused with- Chickweed
Ease of control- Most broad-leafed herbicides

Scotch Thistle

Common names- Spear Thistle/ Scotch Thistle
Botanical name- Cirsium vulgare
Identifying features- Purple flower. Spiny leaves and stem. Grows to 1.5 metres
Commonly confused with- Sow Thistle
Ease of control- Grub it out/ glyphosate

Seaside Daisy

Common names- Seaside Daisy/ Beach Aster
Botanical name- Erigeron glaucous
Identifying features- White, Mauve and Purple daisy-like flowers flowering at once on very thin stems.
Commonly confused with- Other daisies
Ease of control- Selective broad-leafed herbicides

Shepherd’s Purse

Common names- Shepherd’s Purse
Botanical name- Capsella bursa-pastoris
Identifying features- Heavily lobed leaves
Commonly confused with- Dandelion/ Catsear
Ease of control- Selective herbicides

Shivery Grass

Common names- Lesser Quaking Grass/ Shivery Grass
Botanical name- Briza minor
Identifying features- A very light-framed, tufted grass with many small seed heads
Commonly confused with- Blowfly Grass
Ease of control- Selective herbicide

Soursob

Common names- African Wood Sorrel/ Bermuda Buttercup
Botanical name- Oxalis pes-caprae
Identifying features- Trifoliate leaves- often having blacks spots. BRIGHT yellow flower
Commonly confused with- oxalis
Ease of control- Selective herbicide

Sow Thistle

Common names- Sow Thistle/ Milk Thistle
Botanical name- Sonchus oleraceus
Identifying features- Yellow, dandelion-like flower. Glossy, dark green leaves that look slightly spiky. Can grow up to 1.5 metres
Commonly confused with- Dandelion/ Thistle
Ease of control- Selective herbicides

Speedwell

Common names- Speedwell/ Persian Speedwell
Botanical name- Veronica persica
Identifying features- Small, blue, four-lobed flower with a white centre. Leaves- roughly toothed.
Commonly confused with- Forget-Me-Nots
Ease of control- Most broad-leafed herbicides

Summer Grass

Common names- Summer Grass, Hairy Crabgrass, Wild Crabgrass
Botanical name- Digitaria ciliaris
Identifying features- A bright green grass with wide leaves
Commonly confused with- Veldt
Ease of control- Some selective herbicides. Removal by hand.

Veldt Grass

Common names- Veldt
Botanical name- Ehrharta erecta
Identifying features- Fine, thin stems protruding from a centre crown. Leaves are long and floppy and normally paler in colour than other grasses.
Commonly confused with- Summer Grass
Ease of control- Selective herbicide. Removal by hand.

Wandering Jew

Common names- Wandering Jew/ Spiderwort/ Wandering Gypsy
Botanical name- Tradescantia fluminensis
Identifying features- Fleshy green leaves and stem. Small, white, tri-lobed flowers
Commonly confused with- Tahitian Bridal Veil/ Basket Grass
Ease of control- Not easy. Rake and hand-weed

White Root

Common names- White Root
Botanical name- Pratia purpurascens
Identifying features- Creeping, prostrate habit with tiny white flower
Commonly confused with- Nil
Ease of control- Only one selective herbicide available

Wild Strawberry

Common names- Wild Strawberry/ Ornamental Strawberry
Botanical name- Frageria vesca
Identifying features- Red fruit with external seeds
Commonly confused with- Real strawberries
Ease of control- Not easy.

Wild Violet

Common names- Blue Violet/ Wild Violet
Botanical name- Viola sororia
Identifying features- Clustering plant. Small purply/ mauve flowers
Commonly confused with- Real violets
Ease of control- Not easy. Glyphosate

Winter Grass

Common names- Winter Grass/ Annual Blue Grass
Botanical name- Poa annua
Identifying features- Tufted grass with shiny, dark green leaves. Prolific seeder. Once you know the plant, the seeds are the tell-tale sign.
Commonly confused with- Fescues
Ease of control- Selective herbicide

Hydrocotyl

Common names- Basket Grass
Botanical name- Oplismenus imbecillis/aemulus
Identifying features- Sprawling habit. Wavy leaves
Commonly confused with- Tahitian Bridal Veil
Ease of control- Very difficult. However, we have a blend of chemicals that work.

Basket Grass

Common names- Basket Grass
Botanical name- Oplismenus imbecillis/aemulus
Identifying features- Sprawling habit. Wavy leaves
Commonly confused with- Tahitian Bridal Veil
Ease of control- Very difficult. However, we have a blend of chemicals that work.

Categories: General | Tags: weeds

Spiny burrgrass – spinifex (Cenchrus spinifex)

Spiny burrgrass is a summer-growing grass. It can spread rapidly to develop large infestations.

Profile

How does this weed affect you?

Spiny burrgrass is a weed because of its sharp and clingy burr, ability to spread rapidly and tendency to develop into dense infestations in favourable conditions. It is also difficult and expensive to manage, especially in marginal rainfall areas.

Mature burrs cause a range of problems such as:

  • injury to stock causing swellings and ulcers in the mouth
  • injury to people and dogs
  • clinging to wool and penetrating the skin of stock, reducing the value of both
  • shearing difficulties, which often attracts penalty rates as working with contaminated wool requires leather gloves and/or aprons
  • inconvenience and discomfort to workers in irrigated crops such as vegetables, vines and citrus, and
  • contamination of dried fruit and hay.

Where is it found?

Spiny burrgrass is commonly found in drier regions with rainfall of 250 to 600 mm. It prefers sandy to light soils and is generally not found on heavy clay soils. It readily establishes on disturbed sites such as roadsides, creeks and riverbanks.

Spiny burrgrass has spread extensively throughout NSW because of:

  • large numbers of travelling stock, foxes and kangaroo
  • movement of fodder
  • an increase in areas of stubble from cereal crops that provide little competition and an ideal situation for the rapid build-up of the weed
  • lack of pasture competition in low rainfall areas due to variable seasons
  • road graders, slashers and vehicle tyres
  • the use of contaminated sand for building roads, amenity and construction purposes
  • irrigation water.

How does it spread?

The major spread of this weed is by seed. The seed is well equipped for spread because of the barbed spines on the burr, which detach easily from the mature plant.

Seeds are normally produced from late spring to late autumn depending on available soil moisture. There are up to three seeds produced by each “burr” resulting in each plant producing up to 1000 seeds. The first-formed, or primary seed, is the largest and is capable of germinating within a few months of maturity. The other seeds, or secondary seeds, are usually dormant for up to three years.

Spiny burrgrass has several germination regulating mechanisms to ensure its survival during hot, dry summers. The germination process is slow. It is reliant on extended periods of moist soil and is suppressed by light and high temperatures. The seed needs to be buried a few centimetres to maximise germination. Germination generally occurs in spring allowing seedlings to establish during a period favourable for growth but it can occur at any time of the year provided soil temperature and moisture are suitable.

Dormancy of secondary seeds is prolonged by exposure to light on the soil surface or by burial under dense vegetation. Exposure of seed to high or low temperatures will also induce dormancy with the optimum temperature range for germination being 10°C to 20°C. Both primary and secondary seeds have the ability to establish from depths of up to 20 cm below the soil surface.

What does it look like?

Spiny burrgrass is a summer-growing grass that forms large clumps and generally grows to 30 cm but can reach 60 cm or more.

The species C. spinifex can be either annual or perennial depending on the environment. The other Cenchrus weed species are annuals. In many areas of NSW, C. spinifex is usually killed by frosts and therefore acts as an annual.

For each plant, several stems grow from the base and can be either erect or spreading.

The leaves can be up to 20 cm long and are smooth but sometimes twisted and finely serrated.

The roots are fibrous and usually shallow but can be more than 30 cm deep in some soils.

The flowers are a spike-like panicle, 3–8 mm long and consisting of up to 40 ‘burrs’. The burrs are straw-coloured, sharply pointed, rigid, with finely barbed spines up to 7 mm long and a purplish colour in C. longispinus and up to 5 mm long in C. spinifex.

What type of environment does it grow in?

Spiny burrgrass prefers sandy to light soils and is generally not found on heavy clay soils. It readily establishes on disturbed sites such as roadsides, creeks and riverbanks.

Acknowledgements

Contributing authors: C. Mullen, J. Dellow, A. McCaffery.

This Primefact is an updated edition of Agfact P7.6.21 Spiny burrgrass.

Technical reviewers: A. Storrie, K. Pengilley, Birgitte Verbeek.

Parsons, W.T. and Cuthbertson, E.G. 2001, Noxious Weeds of Australia, second edition, CSIRO Publishing, Collingwood, Vic.

Johnston, W.H. 1989, ‘Consol lovegrass (Eragrostis curvula complex) controls spiny burrgrass (Cenchrus spp.) in south-western NSW,’ Australian Journal of Experimental Agriculture, 29, 37–42.

Twentyman, J.D. 1974, ‘Control of vegetative and reproductive growth in sand burr (Cenchrus longispinus),’ Australian Journal of Experimental Agriculture and Animal Husbandry, 14, 764–770.

Spiny burrgrass, Integrated Weed Management fact sheet, Cooperative Research Centre for Australian Weed Management.

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Control

Integrated weed management

The key to the effective control of spiny burrgrass is to prevent seeding and exhaust any reserves of seed in the soil. This can be achieved through integrating cultivation, herbicide application, increasing competition through good pasture establishment and management and cropping.

A management strategy should consider any physical and climatic limitations and cover a three to five-year period.

Preventing spread

Prevent spiny burrgrass from spreading by: excluding livestock from infested areas especially when burrs are likely to adhere to livestock and thoroughly cleaning any vehicles or machinery used on site before leaving. It is important to restrict vehicle access and/or notify anyone who may be accessing the infested site to ensure that they also practice good hygiene.

Control of infestations on roadsides

Infestations can occur as a result of moving livestock, contaminated road graders or road building material. The integration of several control options is necessary in these situations. The application of non-selective herbicides can be followed by cultivation to remove established seedlings or burning the dead plants, in suitable conditions, to destroy the remaining seed heads. It is also useful to put up signs where infestations occur to alert others of the presence of spiny burrgrass and of restrictions on moving machinery or livestock through the area.

Once the seed reserves have been depleted, summer-growing perennial grasses such as Consol lovegrass, Rhodes grass or kikuyu should be established along roadsides to provide competition to germinating weed seedlings.

Pasture management

Maintaining vigorous perennial pastures is critical to prevent spiny burrgrass from becoming dominant. Spiny burrgrass does not establish readily in situations where there is competition from other vegetation. Good ground cover in spring and summer will limit germination and seedling establishment. Management of existing and native naturalised pastures should aim to maintain perennial grass content and ground cover. Identify the species present, their growth cycles and their response to grazing and fertiliser to formulate a management regime that will maximise their competitive behaviour.

Establishing a new pasture

Establishing perennial pastures is expensive so thorough preparation and research into suitable species and varieties is required. The establishment of adequate plant numbers is the first step to a successful pasture. Seek advice from your agronomist on the best pasture establishment steps for your situation.

Competitive summer grasses such as Rhodes grass, Premier digit and Consol lovegrass have proven successful in controlling spiny burrgrass on sandy soils. These grasses are summer-growing perennials and are excellent competitors where the weed is a problem. They establish readily, are drought-tolerant and are reasonably palatable to stock (depending on grazing management).

Ideally, these summer grasses should be sown with an annual legume suitable to your area such as a subterranean clover, medic or serradella. Lucerne may also be included if the soils are not too acidic.

Grazing management

In the vegetative stage, spiny burrgrass is readily eaten by livestock. In paddocks dominated by spiny burrgrass heavy grazing may be used to suppress growth and production of burrs as a short term management strategy. However, it has limited value if the spiny burrgrass infestation is sparsely scattered throughout a paddock. Stock have the potential to spread infestations so it is important to remove stock before seeding commences.

In paddocks that have sparse infestation overgrazing must be avoided. Every effort must be made to keep pastures competitive to prevent dominance by spiny burrgrass.

Cultivation

Timely cultivation to bury the burr or remove surface cover will increase germination and lead to the rapid exhaustion of dormant seeds in the soil.

Follow-up cultivation or the application of an appropriate knockdown herbicide is required to remove the resultant seedlings before they set seed. Under warm, dry conditions this might only be four weeks after germination.

If using only cultivation, repeated workings over a prolonged period will be required to control subsequent seedlings. Intermittent cultivation will create conditions which are ideal for the germination, growth and reproduction of spiny burrgrass, potentially leading to dense infestations becoming established. Avoid over-cultivation as this can increase the risk of soil erosion and soil structural problems such as compaction or surface crusting.

In arable situations a management strategy may involve one or two cultivations during spring and summer combined with fallow spraying. Alternatively, the cultivations may be followed by the application of a pre-emergent herbicide and sowing with a winter crop such as wheat, barley, triticale or lupins.

Some landholders have eradicated spiny burrgrass by using a combination of cultivation and knockdown herbicides for three to five years to prevent any plants present from seeding.

Cropping prior to pasture establishment

It is preferable that the seed reserves of spiny burrgrass be reduced as much as possible before sowing a competitive pasture. This can be achieved by either a period of winter cropping, incorporating the use of a pre-emergent herbicide followed by sowing an appropriate winter crop, or a period of summer cropping, incorporating the use of a pre-emergent herbicide followed by sowing an appropriate broadleaf crop (e.g. cowpeas).

A post emergent application of a selective grass herbicide might be required to control any burrgrass that has escaped the pre-emergent herbicide.

Control in permanent horticulture

Spiny burrgrass can be a problem in permanent horticulture, particularly as a contaminant of dried fruit. Management can be difficult, particularly in irrigation situations, but will generally involve the integration of control options such as close mowing of cover crops, inter-row cultivation, physical removal of isolated plants, the application of non-selective herbicides and good farm hygiene practices to prevent the spread of burrs.

For advice on the management of spiny burrgrass in horticulture consult your local horticulturist or refer to the DPI publications Grapevine Management Guide or Orchard Plant Protection Guide.

Dried fruit producers can refer to the ADFA Dried Fruit Manual produced by the Australian Dried Fruit Association, Mildura, Victoria.

Chemical control

Herbicides can play an integral role in the control of this weed but are best used in a strategy incorporating cultivation, crop rotation and pasture improvement.

Pre-emergent herbicides with soil residual properties have been successful in the control of spiny burrgrass in broadacre crops such as cotton, sunflowers, soybeans, pulses, lucerne and vegetables. However, because seeds can germinate from depths of up to 20 cm, pre-emergent herbicides are not always completely effective. In the event of germination, post-emergent grass herbicides can be considered in broadleaf summer crops and lucerne. Obtain advice from your local agronomist before undertaking this option.

Non-selective knockdown herbicides will kill existing plants but repeated applications are necessary to control subsequent germinations. These herbicides are best used in situations such as fallows, along fencelines and along roadsides. They are best applied when the weed is actively growing (late spring/early summer) before the burrs are produced.

Herbicide options

WARNING – ALWAYS READ THE LABEL
Users of agricultural or veterinary chemical products must always read the label and any permit, before using the product, and strictly comply with the directions on the label and the conditions of any permit. Users are not absolved from compliance with the directions on the label or the conditions of the permit by reason of any statement made or not made in this information. To view permits or product labels go to the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority website www.apvma.gov.au

See Using herbicides for more information.

Glyphosate 360 g/L (Roundup®)
Rate: 500–700 mL in 100 L of water
Comments: High volume spot spray. Apply to actively growing plants before seeding. Glyphosate is non-selective. Apply in non-crop areas and roadsides.
Withholding period: Nil.
Herbicide group: M, Inhibitors of EPSP synthase
Resistance risk: Moderate

Glyphosate 360 g/L (Roundup®)
Rate: 2.0–3.0 L/ha
Comments: Boom spray. Apply to actively growing plants before seeding. Glyphosate is non-selective. Apply in non-crop areas and roadsides.
Withholding period: Nil.
Herbicide group: M, Inhibitors of EPSP synthase
Resistance risk: Moderate

MSMA 720 g/L (Armada 720 SL)
Rate: 1.0 L in 100 L of water
Comments: Spot spray application. Do not cut or graze effected area for 5 weeks.
Withholding period: 5 weeks.
Herbicide group: Z, Herbicides with unknown and probably diverse sites of action
Resistance risk: Moderate

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Biosecurity duty

The content provided here is for information purposes only and is taken from the Biosecurity Act 2015 and its subordinate legislation, and the Regional Strategic Weed Management Plans (published by each Local Land Services region in NSW). It describes the state and regional priorities for weeds in New South Wales, Australia.

Area Duty
All of NSW General Biosecurity Duty
All plants are regulated with a general biosecurity duty to prevent, eliminate or minimise any biosecurity risk they may pose. Any person who deals with any plant, who knows (or ought to know) of any biosecurity risk, has a duty to ensure the risk is prevented, eliminated or minimised, so far as is reasonably practicable.
Central Tablelands
Exclusion zone: whole region except the core infestation area of Mid-Western Regional Council, Bathurst Council, Cabonne Council and Cowra Council areas
Regional Recommended Measure*
Whole region: The plant should not be bought, sold, grown, carried or released into the environment. Exclusion zone: The plant should be eradicated from the land and the land kept free of the plant. Land managers should mitigate the risk of the plant being introduced to their land. Core infestation area: Land managers should mitigate spread from their land. Land managers reduce impacts from the plant on priority assets.
Central West Regional Recommended Measure*
Land managers should mitigate the risk of new weeds being introduced to their land. Land managers should mitigate spread from their land. The plant should not be bought, sold, grown, carried or released into the environment.
Western Regional Recommended Measure*
Land managers mitigate the risk of the plant spreading from their land. Land managers reduce impact of plant on priority assets (commercial horticultural areas, grazing lands and conservation areas). The plant or parts of the plant are not traded, carried, grown or released into the environment.
*To see the Regional Strategic Weeds Management Plans containing demonstrated outcomes that fulfill the general biosecurity duty for this weed

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For technical advice and assistance with identification please contact your local council weeds officer.
For further information call the NSW DPI Biosecurity Helpline on 1800 680 244 or send an email to [email protected]

Reviewed 2018

No grass just burrs and clover weeds

Here are instructions for getting rid of the stickers…….

Sand burs, Cenchrus incertus, found throughout the state and is a problem in pastures, vacant lots and home lawns. Sandburs (stickers) are the seeds of an annual summer grass that germinates in the spring and set seed or burs in the summer and fall. The plant dies once the seeds grow and drop. While control can be achieved, it may take several years for complete eradication. The seeds will bury in the soil and turn up every time soil is disturbed or erosion brings seeds to the surface.

While the seeds are still on the plants or on the soil surface you can drag an old throw-away towel or blanket or burlap bag over the lawn. The burs (stickers/seeds) will stick to the material. Keep dragging the material across the lawn until it will hold no more stickers/seeds. Then find another piece of material and do this until you can find no more stickers/seeds. Depending on the material and lawn, you may need to place some weight on the material. For every seed you collect this way, you will have fewer seeds germinate in the spring and summer.

In your case since you are willing to plant a lawn. Here is what you have to consider…

In this heat, can you water enough to establish a lawn? Irrigation system or hose-end sprinklers? Check with your city to see if your city is under drought restrictions.

remove all sand bur seeds

Till in compost

Plant sod or seed depending on lawn desired.

Consider water saving lawns like

Blue Grama grass (seed)

Buffalo Grass (seed or sod)

Curly Mesquite (seed)

Or combination of all 3

Common Bermuda (seed)

Zoysia ‘Palisades’

These are all sun lawns

By The way – clover is a nitrogen fixing plant. Very desirable.

Please also consult Allison Watkins, Horticulture County Extension Agent, Tom Green County, 325-659-6528, [email protected],edu

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