How long do sunflowers bloom before they die

Fixing Drooping Sunflowers: How To Keep Sunflowers From Drooping

Sunflowers make me happy; they just do. They are easy to grow and pop up cheerfully and unbidden beneath the bird feeders or anywhere they’ve been grown before. They do, however, have a tendency to droop. The question is: why do my sunflowers droop over and what can I do about drooping sunflowers?

Why Do My Sunflowers Droop Over?

Drooping in sunflower plants can occur in both young and older plants. What to do about drooping sunflowers depends on what stage of growth they’re in and the cause of the drooping.

Sunflower droop in young plants

Diseases and pests can cause sunflowers to droop, as can transplant shock. Sunflowers do best when they are seeded directly outside. Living in a cooler climate, I have started them indoors before and then transplanted them outside. Transplanting them disturbs the roots, which puts the plant into shock mode. If you must start the seeds inside for later transplant, start them in peat pots. When you go to transplant them, tear off the top ½ inch (1.25 cm.) of the peat pot so it doesn’t wick away moisture. Also, harden off the seedlings before planting so they can acclimate to the outdoor temperatures.

Fungal diseases can cause a number of issues with sunflowers, including damping off. One of the first signs of damping off is wilting or drooping. This is followed by yellowing foliage, stunting and failure to thrive. Proper sowing and watering can decrease the risk of damping off. Sow seeds in warm soil, 2 inches (5 cm.) deep and only water when the top ½ inch (1.25 cm.) of soil is completely dried out.

Insects, like caterpillars and spider mites, can damage young sunflower seedlings, causing them to droop, yellow and even die. Keep the area around the seedlings free from debris and weeds that harbor pests. Treat a drooping plant with a mild insecticidal soap if you suspect a pest infestation.

Drooping in mature sunflowers

Some sunflowers can attain great heights with large sunny yellow heads. So an obvious reason for drooping heads is simply top-heavy sunflowers. If this is the case, there’s no fixing drooping sunflowers. Top-heavy sunflowers are a natural occurrence just as overladen fruit boughs bend under the weight of a plentiful harvest. If all else is well with the plant and it is healthy, the stalk should be able to withstand the weight without splitting. If you are truly worried about damage to the stalk, however, tie the head up to a fence, tree, eave, or whatever the sunflower is near to help the plant bear the weight.

Another possibility for drooping sunflowers is that the plants need water. An indicator of this is leaves that are wilted as well. Sunflowers, in general, can withstand some drought. But they do best with deep, regular watering to encourage root growth. This is especially beneficial with the taller varieties that need strong roots to hold up the tall stalks and heavy heads.

How to Keep Sunflowers from Drooping

Excellent cultural conditions are the key to keeping sunflowers from drooping. If the plants are in a shaded area or have too much or too little water, you may find them droopy looking. Sow sunflowers in full sun in moderately fertile, well-draining soil. Water them with one inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week depending upon rainfall. Check the soil prior to watering. Allow the top ½ inch (1.25 cm.) of soil to dry between watering, which will help prevent fungal infections. Keep the area around the plants weed and detritus free.

Sunflowers don’t usually need fertilizer, but a little boost won’t hurt them. Too much nitrogen, however, will result in healthy green foliage and few blooms. Use a low nitrogen food such as a 5-10-10. Sprinkle the lowest application recommendation on the manufacturer’s label, generally ½ cup per 25 square feet (7.5 square m.).

Follow all of the above tips and you won’t be wondering about fixing drooping sunflowers. Unless, of course, the drooping is from top-heavy heads and then really that’s a great thing – more sunflower seeds for you to eat!

A perfect indoor gardening activity for the cold winter months. Grow and eat fresh sunflower sprouts with your kids!

Sprouting is the perfect gardening activity for kids. Not only can you see the “fruits” of your labor within 2 days, but it’s almost impossible to screw it up! We’ve had plenty of gardens that have failed. We put in lots of hard work, and didn’t get any fruits or vegetables. But sprouting has worked for us every time! Even better, sprouting microgreens are so tasty and versatile, that the kids like to eat them.

Our latest project was Sunflower sprouts (often called sunflower lettuce). I learned about these tasty little sprouts at a church activity and the kids were excited to give it a try.

Grow Them!

There are just a few simple steps to growing sunflower sprouts. The first is to find some black sunflower seeds in the shell. The ones best for sprouting look like this:

Step 1)

Soak the sunflower seeds for 12-18 hours. They like to float to the top, so I used a jar with a lid to turn it upside down and to make sure it was filled.

Step 2)

Dump into a colander until they sprout- keep damp by spraying with tap water. Once they begin to sprout a tiny white tail, they are ready.

Step 3-6

Spray with a spray bottle to keep it damp. After two days, remove the paper towel. After 5-6 days, you’ll have sunflower lettuce!

Eat them!

TJ is my crazy one. He is in that phase where he thinks it’s cool to eat weird stuff. He likes to pull leaves off of his sprouts and chomp on them in front of his friends.. Kind of a show off thing. Lol. So, I made sure to send him some plain sprouts in his lunch.

We also eat the sprouts in sandwiches or on top of some crusty bread. This one has cream cheese, avocado, and tomatoes, with sunflower sprouts on top!

If your kids don’t like to SEE the sprouts on top of their bread, you can always turn it into this mouth watering spread!! Cream cheese, sprouts, and avocado, all in the food processor!! YUM!!

If you’ve ever used sunflower lettuce/ or sunflower sprouts in a recipe, I’d love to hear what you do with it!

Growing Sunflower Greens

Growing Sunflower Greens Instructions

How much seed you Soak depends on the area you are planting.
Yields vary depending on method used, climate and technique, but are roughly 1 pound of Greens per pound of seed planted.


When growing these Greens: You really MUST Pre-Sprout before planting.

Put seed into a jar, bowl or your Sprouter.
Fill that which you are using with cool (60-70 degree) water.
ESSENTIAL SOAKING NOTE: Whole Sunflower Seeds float.
To get them all to soak up water well, so they grow well, it is necessary to keep them all under water during their soak. We do this with a mason jar – topped with a screen lid, or a plate atop a bowl, or an Easy Sprout with a flat lid snapped on-top. Whatever you use – keep them all underwater!

Allow your seeds to Soak for 8-12 hours.

Empty the seeds into your Sprouter (if necessary).
Drain off the soak water.
You may water plants with it if you like – it has nutrients in it.

Rinse thoroughly with cool (60-70°) water.
Drain thoroughly.

Set your Sprouter anywhere out of direct sunlight and at room temperature (70° is optimal) between Rinses.
This is where your sprouts do their growing. We use a counter top – in the corner of our kitchen, but where the sprouter won’t get knocked over by cats, dogs, kids or us. We don’t mind the indirect sunlight or the 150 watts of room light, because light just does not matter much. A plant can only perform photosynthesis when it has leaves. Until then light has little if any effect. Sprouts also happen to like air-circulation, so don’t hide your sprouts.
We’ll get to the light later, after planting our Greens.

When most of the seeds have sprouted tiny (1/8-1/4 inch) roots, or even better, when they are just showing the hint of a root, it is time to plant. This is typically after just 2-3 Rinse and Drain cycles.

Planting and Growing

Coconut Coir is our all-time favorite growing medium. It holds moisture better than any medium we’ve ever worked with. It releases nutrients as the plants grow. It’s less messy than soil – though it feels like the loveliest, loamiest soil you can imagine. The only trick to Coir is getting the medium properly moist. Saturated is perfect. Puddles is too much. We mix Earthworm castings in. 75% Coir + 25% Castings. We fill our tray ¾ full. We LOVE this mix! Your Sunnys will taste better and grow stronger using this medium, but if you insist – you can use…

Hemp Felt: Prepare the pad: Cut it to fit your Tray if necessary. Soak it in water or better yet, Kelp Fertilizer enriched water (You don’t NEED fertilizer, but we use it when we grow without soil.) until thoroughly saturated. Spread the wet pad across the bottom of your tray. Proceed…

Spread seeds evenly on thoroughly moistened medium.
Though some literature will tell you that your seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from years of experience and thousands of pounds of Greens grown that that is bunk! You will learn for yourself that some Greens (like these) produce a plant that takes up less room than the seed, and so, to maximize your yield, your seeds must lay atop each other to some degree. The thing to watch is this: If you find mold or fungal problems in your Greens, lessen the amount of seed you plant. The hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an issue the mold/fungus is. As always, you need to adapt to your own climate and seasonal conditions. And learn as you go – this is really easy and fun stuff to learn, and what is better than learning?!

Cover the planted tray with an inverted tray (the Cover Tray) – to keep light out and moisture in. Your covering tray should have holes or slits in it to allow air circulation.

Place in a low-light, room temperature location.
70° is always optimal but these Greens will grow very well in cooler or slightly warmer temperatures also.

Water lightly once or twice a day.
The goal is to keep the sprouts moist until their roots bury themselves in the medium – at which point your goal is to keep the medium moist. Spraying the sprouts is best – if you use a sprayer in your sink or a hand sprayer – just try to make sure that every sprout gets rinsed and quenched until they bury their roots.
Hemp Felt: You will have a much tastier crop when you include Kelp Fertilizer.

Once the roots are buried all you need to do is keep the medium moist – the plants will get the moisture they need through their roots.

Use the Drip Tray to hold some water. The roots will actually sit in this, so don’t go crazy – too much can drown your plants and/or lead to fungal or mold problems. Just leave as much water as the Greens can drink in a day and then add more the following day. The amount is dependant on the size of your tray and the climate (humidity especially) you’re growing in, so you’ll have to learn this for yourself. As an example, if you are using our 1 Crop Tray Set – which is 10 inches x 20 inches – start with 1-2 cups in the Drip Tray. Lift the Planting Tray to see how much is left after 4, 8 and 12 hours. If the Drip Tray is dry add more water – if there is still water 24 hours later then cut back the next time you add water. Pretty simple really, basically common sense eh? It is really a time saver and produces happy healthy Greens.

Once again, we do recommend Kelp Fertilizer enriched water for Hemp Felt growers. Coconut Coir growers may use it too of course, but if you are using nitrogen rich Earthworm Castings in your medium, you can easily skip the kelp.

Greening your Sunnys

Uncover your Greens in 3-4 days, or when they are about an inch tall, or when they push the covering tray up! They really will do that!

Move your crop to a well lit location. Direct sunlight is a very good idea for Greens. Keep your medium moist. The bigger your plants grows the more quickly they drink water.Watch them grow.


Harvesting your crop is just a matter of cutting the plants when they are about 2-4 inches tall and have green leaves. Cut the plants just above the mediums surface.

Harvest should occur BEFORE “true leaves” begin to show. They are leaves which will appear from the center of the first 2 leaves. If you see a few Greens with these tiny leaves forming then get your scissors out – the Greens get less tasty (a bit bitter) if let go too long.

Shells: Sunflower Greens will shed their Shells as their leaves open, but there are always some that are slow to shed. We remove the loose ones like this: Hold the tray at a steep angle and brush your hand back and forth over the top of the Greens. Some leaves won’t shed their shells – you will either need to peel the shells off of those, or discard those Sunnys. Eating the shell is generally frowned upon by one’s stomach, and is texturally not in keeping with the tender perfection of the other Sunnys, se we advise against it =;-).

If you are going to store your crop, you want your Greens to be as dry as possible, to the touch before refrigerating. So, don’t water too close to harvest time.

Transfer your crop to a plastic bag – or better yet try our excellent Produce Storage Bag (they actually extend the shelf life of produce – we use them in our home). Whatever sealed container you choose – put them in your refrigerator.

Sunflowers to start with:

1/4 – 1/3 cup for a 5″ square Tray.
1 – 1 1/2 cup for an 10″ square Tray.
2 – 3 Cups for an 10 inch x 20 inch Tray.

There are about 4 cups of Sunflower seed per pound.

The surest way to know what amount of seed to use: Spread dry seed on the bottom of that in which you will be growing (i.e. your tray) so that the seed is spread evenly but densely.

One more time: We use a lot of Seeds and though some literature will tell you that your seeds should not ever lay atop each other, we have found from years of experience and thousands of pounds of Greens grown that that is bunk! The thing to watch is this: If you find mold or fungal problems in your Greens then lessen the amount of seed you plant next time. The hotter/more humid your climate is the more of an issue the mold/fungus is. As always, you need to adapt to your own climate and seasonal conditions. And learn as you go – this is really easy and fun stuff to learn!

Growing your own sprouts is one of the easiest and most accessible ways to grow food at home because it requires very little space, can be done indoors at any time of year, and is super easy to do! The only thing that can get a bit confusing is when you go to buy your seeds and find yourself faced with a shelf full of different varieties of sprouts. Which should you choose? I’ve made up a list of some of the best sprouting seeds and what they taste like, so that you can pick the right sprouts for your preferences. You may also want to pick a few and mix them together—you can create all sorts of delicious flavor combinations!


Alfalfa sprouts are one of the most common varieties, probably because the taste goes with everything! They are small, crunchy sprouts with a mild taste. Add these sprouts to any dish to add a little crunch and a lot of nutrients.


Beet sprouts have colorful stems in dark red or magenta and bright green leaves, so if you want to add a pop of pretty color to a dish, these are the sprouts for you. They taste slightly earthy and very sweet.


Broccoli produces thick, hefty sprouts that have a nutty, spicy flavor (a bit like radish). They don’t actually taste much like broccoli, but they are a delicious addition to anything that could use a little spice. They are also particularly high in antioxidants, so if you’re adding more sprouts to your diet in order to boost your health, these are a good choice.


Fenugreek has a bitter taste that adds complexity to dishes when mixed with other flavors (consider using it in a sprout mix), but is usually not eaten on its own. Fenugreek can help to relieve an upset stomach, so this is a good choice for those with sensitive tummies.

Green Pea

Green pea sprouts are crunchy with a fresh, sweet taste reminiscent of snow peas. They are mild and go well with most other flavors. These are many people’s go-to sandwich sprout! I like to grow them in combination with mung bean sprouts as they have the same growing time and complimentary flavors.


Lentil sprouts come in various colors, making them an attractive addition to a dish that needs a little color contrast. They have a great, crunchy texture and a rich, nutty flavor.

Mung Bean

Mung bean sprouts are thick, juicy sprouts with white stems and a very mild taste. Their crunchy texture and tendency to take on the flavor of whatever sauce or seasoning is added to them makes mung bean sprouts a great addition to stir-fry.


Mustard sprouts have an earthy taste and a spicy kick, kind of like horseradish. A perfect sprout for the spice lover!


Radish sprouts are very slender, with red-tipped leaves. They look lovely as a garnish. They taste similar to mature radish, but with less spice.

Red Clover

These dark green sprouts have a mild, earthy taste and a very crunchy texture. They go well with most other flavors, so pile them onto all you favorite sandwiches, salads, wraps, and bowls.


Sprouting spelt results in a nutritious, chewy grain with a mildly sweet taste. If you want to use sprouts in a surprising way, spelt sprouts can be added to your morning granola, raw bread recipes, and even baked into cookies.


Sunflower sprouts have thick, juicy leaves with a deep, nutty flavor that is scrumptious. Sunflower sprouts are delicious in the usual dishes—salads, sandwiches, bowls, etc.—but their sweet flavor also makes them a welcome way to pack some more nutrients into a fruit smoothie.

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Now the researchers needed to know why mature sunflowers wind up facing east when they are done growing. They found that east-facing flowers in pots, as opposed to ones they forced to face west at dawn, were warmer and attracted more pollinators. Heating up the west-facing flowers brought in more pollinators as well. The researchers think the plants develop an eastward preference when young, and continue it as mature plants because being warm in the morning when bugs are more active offers an advantage.

“If you’ve ever driven across the south of France at the right time of year, there are these huge fields of sunflowers, all facing east. You wonder how they got there, and why they bothered,” said Winslow Briggs, a plant biologist who discovered phototropins, the photoreceptors in plants responsible for their ability to align with the sun. Dr. Briggs, who was not involved in the research, said the study demonstrated how sunflowers do it.

But many unknowns remain: For example, just how does the young sunflower weave together light signals, the circadian clock and growth rates to reorient its head every night? While the scientific inquiry continues, perhaps some space remains to imagine sunflowers and their romance with the sun.

Why do sunflowers follow the sun and reorient at night?

Scientists from the University of California have determined that sunflower plants always track the sun‘s movement during the day, as they reorient towards the east as the night passes.

The study, published in Science, reveals that sunflowers possess a circadian rhythm, also known as sunflower heliotropism, which allows them to undergo biological processes according to the perceived stimuli from the environment. On daytime, sunflowers’ circadian rhythm tells its stems to allow the cells located on their eastern section to grow longer, which points the whole flower to the west. The same occurs at night for the cells on the western section of the stem, allowing the plant to point towards the east and face the sun as it rises on the horizon.

Sunflowers have the ability to reorient themselves towards the sunlight at day and night. Image credit: Black Thumb Gardener.

The internal clock of sunflowers

Although many plants have genes that mimic the sleep cycles of animals, this is the first time that changes in growth have been linked to a plant’s circadian rhythm. The sunflower’s sun-seeking behavior was compared to solar panel arrays, which follow the sun from east to west and then relocate in order to receive the day’s first rays of sunlight.

Scientists performed experiments to assess the sunflower’s unique features. They turned potted plants in different directions, thus forcing the flowers to face the wrong direction, and also fixated some of the plants so it was impossible for them to move. The research team saw that altered sunflowers had smaller leaves and thinner stems when compared to control specimens.

Another phase of experimentation had the flowers isolated in an indoor growth environment with a single overhead light, directly above the plant. The sunflowers swung on different directions as days passed. According to lead researcher Stacey Harmer, this evidences that the flower’s patterns are dictated by some sort of internal clock.

When the overhead light source was moved several times throughout the day, simulating the day-night cycle, the plants started to aim towards it. The researchers tried to elongate the artificial day, but the flowers’ tracking patterns were not reliable after the 30th hour.

#VincentVanGogh #Sunflowers

— Primo GIF (@PrimoGIF) August 3, 2016

It was also determined that sunflowers facing the sun become heated more quickly, which in turn attracts a larger amount of insects, promoting pollination. Harmer suggested that pollinating insects, such as bees, are more likely to go after warm flowers.

Humans also have a circadian rhythm. On a regular schedule, humans tend to have a high alertness level from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., while the best physical performance has been determined to occur around 5 p.m.

At 7 p.m. the body perceives its highest temperature throughout the day and at 9 p.m. the secretion of melatonin starts, which in turn promotes sleep. A new day starts at around 7 a.m. when the secretion of melatonin stops.

Our circadian rhythm can be modified according to the body’s exposure to external stimuli. One of the most notable ways of altering the circadian rhythm is by traveling across time zones, which produces a sensation known as jet lag. Sunflowers, on the other hand, rely on a more primitive version of the same mechanism. But the fact that a plant is able to alter its growth direction to always face its primary energy source is something to admire.

Source: Science

Throughout the summer season in the garden, I find myself busy as a bee caring for my sunflowers. They need constant care with watering and tending.

From one day to the next I find a new challenge comes along. The seedling are leaning towards the light and are fragile before hardening off, then they get leggy and droop on transplanting and need a little help standing tall.

My mature plants are given good solid stakes to lean on, but are not ‘strangle held’ as to stop heliotropism – which you can find out about here. The freshly cut flowers I have around my home are regularly treated to fresh water and a homemade cocktail of soluble food, to prolong their lives.

So why are my sunflowers drooping? First of all make sure all developing plants are well drained and have been watered. Seedlings are usually floppy and will soon get stronger when hardened off. Mature plants have heavy drooping heads and need staking, while cut wilting flowers might need a change of water and a bit more care.

Below are the reasons I’ve found for drooping or wilting sunflowers. But, on experience and a little research I have come across a few more factors that I’d like to expand on and share with you.

So let us see how we can help hold our sunflower heads up high.

Sunflower Seedlings Falling Over

Sunflowers are one of the fastest growing plants, so it’s not surprising that they get tall and floppy really fast. Not just sunflower seedlings, but all seedlings that are grown indoors can get leggy and even fall over as they strain towards the natural sunlight. If you’re growing seedlings indoors then place them in the most sunny place as you can, A south facing windowsill is ideal.

Make sure the seedling trays, or pots have good drainage so they’re not sitting in soggy soil. I also turn my seedlings daily and gently brush my hands over them a few times a day. This gives them the feeling that they’re fighting against the wind and they grow stronger.

If all else fails. bend a pipe cleaner or stiff garden wire and make a support. Gently prop your sunflower seedling against the supports until it is time to harden them off.

Sunflower Seedlings Wilting After Transplanting

‘Hardening off’ means that you gradually introduce your sunflower seedlings to their new outdoor life. This is done a few weeks before you transplant them into their summer growing site. It takes a bit of dedication and care, but it will ensure better sunflower results.

How to Harden off Sunflowers

  1. Place your seedling trays and pots in a sunny, but sheltered place on firm ground for a few hours every day
  2. Make sure you bring them in at night
  3. Gradually increase the hours each day
  4. Continue until the last of the harsh weather has gone
  5. Plant your sunflowers in the ground.

Sunflowers grow fast, and to grow strong they need a lot of sun to do this. So make sure you plant your sunflower seedlings in as sunny a place as you can. Six hours of sunlight is ideal.

If your seedlings start to wilt, this is usually known as ‘transplanting shock’. Make sure they are gently watered and if you need to use wire supports then do so. Be patient, they will soon get strength from being outside in their new ground and the natural sunlight from above.

A sunflower in need of a little support.

Maturing Sunflowers Bending Over

Now your sunflowers are growing fast and tall in their growing sites. If you’re lucky they will soon gain the strength to hold themselves up. If not and your giant beauties are leaning and bending over, then a helping hand is required.

Strong stakes and canes are ideal. Push them into the ground next to each sunflower plant and gently prop the stem against them. Next wrap twine or plastic coated garden wire tightly around the canes and loosely around the stem of the plant.

Do not tie the plant in a ‘strangle hold’ against the canes as it will prevent the sunflower from following the sun, this is an important part of the sunflowers growth.

Having grown sunflowers for many years, I use a support cane system! They’re so easy to use, durable and year after year they haven’t let me down – or my sunflowers.

Sunflowers Supports

It’s been several years since I needed to buy new ones, but if you’re planning on growing sunflowers for many years to come, or have any other tall plants that need support, I found similar ones that are perfect here on amazon.

If you’d like more in depth ideas of how to make supports for your sunflower I’ve written it all in helpful detail here.

Building a framework around your sunflowers out of canes, stakes poles or garden treated wood is a big help to them too. It takes time and can be a little awkward to get in amongst your maturing plants, so maybe a bit of forward planning is needed.

Nonetheless, if you’ve got this far and your plants need support then a bit of time working on a frame or erecting trellis will go a long way to help them.

Why Sunflower Heads Droop Over

There are a few reasons why sunflower heads droop over. First of all, make sure your plants are fully hydrated. It’s important to water your sunflowers often as they grow so quickly and can dry out fast. There have been days I’ve had to water my sunflowers in the morning and evening to stop their blooms drooping.

When a sunflowers head has completely bloomed, when it’s been pollinated and becomes heavy with seeds, then it’s perfectly normal for the head to bend over and droop down.

The heaviness is one thing and the reason for it is so the seeds can fall to the ground so they can nestle there and grow the following year.

Unfortunately, there’s nothing to be done, It’s part of the natural life cycle of the sunflower. But don’t be disheartened. This means your sunflower has paid you back for all the care you have given it by producing a high yield of seeds for you. Save some to grow next year, and do this with your seeds!

A sunny bouquet

How to Keep Cut Sunflowers from Drooping

Not only do I love having sunflowers in my garden, I love having the bright blooms displayed in my home too.

Here are a few tips to keeps your sunflowers from wilting, and to make wilting sunflowers perky again. If cared for properly, cut sunflowers can last up to 2 weeks.

Cutting Your Own Sunflowers

I always try and give the sunflowers I cut from my garden, to display in my home a good start to help them last as long as possible. Here are some great tips to care for cut sunflowers.

  • Choose a sunflower that is starting to open up or nearly bloomed
  • Water your sunflower plants thoroughly early in the morning, at least 2 to 3 hours before cutting any bloom off. This will help prevent your cuttings from going into shock.
  • Try and get your cuttings in the morning, a few hours after watering and before the full sun has dehydrated them again.
  • Cut the stem the length you require at an angle. Sunflower stems are thick and need a lot of water, cutting at an angle gives a greater area for more water to draw up the stem.
  • Having a vase that supports the length of stem you’ve cut will help them not to droop.
  • Put the sunflowers in water straight away. This will prevent early wilting.
  • If possible, change the water every day.
  • When placing the flowers back in the clean water, jiggle them about in the water. This will release any air bubbles caught at the bottom of the stem that prevent water from being drawn up and cause wilting.

Remember: If cared for properly, cut sunflowers can last up to 2 weeks.

Buying or Being Gifted a Bouquets of Sunflowers

If you’ve bought, or been given a bunch of sunflowers, here’s a few tips after unwrapping them to give them a welcome to your home, and hopefully stop any further wilting that may be in process from their journey to your house.

  • Try and use a suitable height of vase or pot that will support the stem length.
  • First recut the sunflowers stem at an angle. This will give a large fresh area of healthy stem for them to draw up water
  • Place in water as soon as possible and jiggle the stems to release any pockets of air bubbles. The bubbles give resistance to the flow of water going up the stem, this can cause wilting.
  • Change the water regularly, once a day would be ideal. And again jiggle them.

Sunflowers Drooping in a Vase

After some days, if your vase of sunflowers are starting to wilt, try these ideas to perk them up again

  • Make sure there is water in the vase. It sound crazy but Sunflowers drink a lot and can dehydrate fast, causing them to wilt.
  • Placing your sunflowers in a tall vase or pot might be all they need to add support to their long stems and stop them from drooping.
  • Recut the stem at an angle, this will be a fresh area for water to be drawn up.
  • Put your sunflowers in clean water and jiggle them about to release air bubbles from the stem. That way the water will have no resistance going up the stem.
  • Shop bought bouquets sometimes come with a packet of plant food. If you’ve used it all up then a half a teaspoon of sugar dissolved in the water can sometimes help wilting sunflowers.


I hope some of these tips and hints have helped with your drooping sunflower dilemas. From seedlings falling over, sunflower plants bending, blooms drooping down and vase sunflowers wilting, I’ve seen it all and I hope I’ve given a few ideas to help with these problems.

I also hope I’ve given you the confidence to cut your own sunflowers to enjoy in your home too. If you have any other ideas of how to help with drooping, wilting, and floppy sunflowers I’d love to hear from you in the comments below. Thank you.

Related Questions

Sunflower leaves are drooping: This is an indication that the sunflower plant, or vase of sunflowers are dehydrated. Sunflowers don’t need to be over watered, but they do need to be regularly watered. Give them a good watering and they should perk up.

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