How does yellow squash grow?

Summer Squash

The name summer squash is used to describe squashes that have a thin, edible skin. Zucchini, yellow squash, crookneck, and pattypan are the most common summer squashes grown in Florida. Summer squashes are usually bush types and have less of a spreading, vining habit than winter squashes.

Despite the name, summer squash doesn’t really grow in Florida during the heat of the summer. It can be grown in North Florida from February to April as well as in August and September. In Central Florida it can be grown from February to May, and again in August and September. And in South Florida it can be grown from August to March.

Most of the zucchinis grown for market in Florida are grown in the north and central parts of the state, while most of the yellow squash grown for the commercial market comes from the central and southern parts of Florida.


Summer squash (Cucurbita pepo) is a member of the Cucurbitaceae family; interestingly, zucchini, yellow squash, crookneck, and pattypan are all the same genus and species. The skin and seeds of these squash are edible. Their tender flesh has a high water content, mild flavor, and cook up quickly. Summer squash is a good source of folate, potassium, and vitamins C and B6. Unpeeled squash can be high in vitamin A as well. Summer squash can be eaten cooked or raw, and recently have gained popularity as a vegetable alternative to noodles, called “zoodles”.

Zucchini are usually green in color, however cultivars offer a range of colors, from yellow to a green so dark it almost looks black. Zucchini cultivars can even be found with skin that is striped. Generally, zucchini are cylindrical in shape, however cultivars that grow in a spherical shape can be found.

‘Caserta’ is an average-sized variety for zucchini squash that reaches between 5 and 6 inches long. ‘Cocozelle’ is quite long, reaching 14 to 16 inches in length. Eight-ball zucchini offers something a little different, giving you the classic zucchini taste in a round ball shape.


Yellow squash resembles zucchini squash except it has skin that is pale yellow in color. These come in two varieties, straight neck (which has a fat bottom that slims to a tapered neck) and crookneck. They can have smooth or slightly bumpy skin and cream colored flesh with large seeds.


Crookneck squash are distinguished by their shape; the squash tapers from a bulbous blossom end to a curved, narrow stem end. With yellow, slightly bumpy skin crookneck squash have a mild flavor.

A pattypan squash. Photo by Elena Gaillard, licensed under
Creative Commons BY-NC-SA.


Pattypan is a small squash that has a round, shallow shape and scalloped edges. This interesting-looking squash is as delicious as it is eye catching. They can be found in white and shades of green and yellow and can truly give you something a little aesthetically different to grow in your garden.

Planting and Care

Some varieties for growing in Florida include ‘Early Prolific Straightneck’ (bush-like yellow squash), ‘Summer Crookneck’ (yellow crookneck squash), ‘Early White Scallop’ (white pattypan squash), ‘Cocozelle’ (very long, dark green zucchini with light green stripes), ‘Spineless Beauty’ (medium green zucchini on plants with very few spines), and ‘Black Beauty’ (glossy dark green zucchini).

Summer squash should be planted in an area that gets full sun in rows that are spaced three feet apart. Within each row, plants should be given two feet of space between each plant. Seeds should be planted an inch to an inch and a half deep in the soil. Plant either seeds or containerized transplants (transplants that have developed mature roots) in your garden. Four to six plants is generally able to produce enough fruit to feed a family of four. Mulching is a great way to conserve moisture in the soil and keep your squash out of the dirt.

Like all cucurbits, summer squash have male and female flowers separated but on the same plant. Pollination by insects or by hand is necessary for fruit to set. Wrinkled and premature fruit drop is a sign of poor pollination.

Summer squash takes between 40 and 50 days to produce fruit ready for harvest. It’s best to harvest your fruits by cutting the stem to a point where the fruit is left with an inch or two of intact stem. This will help your squash store longer. Be aware that you may want to wear gloves while harvesting your squash as stems can have sharp spines that may irritate skin. Frequent harvesting will keep your plant producing fruits.

While insects, mainly bees, are important for pollination of summer squash, these plants can be damaged by other insects. Leafminers, aphids, cutworms, squash vine borers, squash bugs, cucumber beetles, mole crickets, and fruit worms are insects that have been known to harm summer squash plants. Diseases like downy mildew, powdery mildew, mosaic virus, and fruit rots can also take a toll on these plants. Keep in mind that zucchini leaves have light greenish-gray splotches and streaks on the leaf surface, this is a natural feature of the leaf that is often mistaken for a mildew problem, so be sure to check before assuming disease.

To protect the bees that are so important for fruit set, avoid spraying for insect pests. If you absolutely must spray, do so only in the evening when bees are less active.

UF/IFAS Publications

Also on Gardening Solutions

  • Powdery Mildew vs Downy Mildew
  • Vegetable Gardening by Season

How to plant:

Propagate by seed

Germination temperature: 60 F to 105 F – Will not germinate in cold soil. Wait to plant until soil reaches at least 65 F — preferably 70 F or more. Germinates best at 95 F.

Days to emergence: 5 to 10 – Should germinate in less than a week with soil temperature of 70 F and adequate moisture.

Seed can be saved 6 years.

Maintenance and care: Squash like warm soil and are very sensitive to frost. So don’t be in a rush to plant early in spring. Wait until danger of frost has passed and soil has warmed to about 70 F, or about 2 weeks after the last frost date.

Direct seed ½ to 1 inch deep into hills (which warm and drain earlier in the season) or rows. Sow 4 to 5 seeds per hill. Space hills 3 to 4 feet apart. When the plants are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin to 2 to 3 plants per hill by snipping off unwanted plants without disturbing the roots of the remaining ones. In rows, sow seeds 4 inches apart in rows 4 to 5 feet apart. Snip off plants to thin to one plant every 12 to 24 inches.

For extra early crops, start inside in 2- to 3-inch pots or cells 3 to 4 weeks before transplanting outside. Sow 3 or 4 seeds per pot and thin to one or two plants by snipping off the weaker plants to avoid damaging the roots of those that remain. Harden off by cutting back on water and reducing temperature before transplanting. Plant transplants out in the garden about 1 to 2 feet apart after all danger of frost has passed.

To hasten first harvest by as much as 2 weeks, use black plastic mulch to warm soil before direct seeding or transplanting. Early fruits are sometimes wrinkled, turn black or rot due to poor pollination.

At the end of the season, remove or till in vines to reduce mildew. Use row covers to protect plants early in the season and to prevent insect problems. Remove cover before flowering to allow pollination by insects or when hot weather arrives.

Mulching plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. Mounding soil around the base of the plants can discourage squash borers from laying eggs.

Pests: Squash bug – Hand pick. Bury or compost plant residues after harvest.

Squash vine borer – Remove by hand and destroy.

Striped cucumber beetles – Construct tents of fine netting or cheeesecloth or use floating row covers over young plants. Put in place at planting and remove at flowering. Control of beetles may be a factor in preventing bacteria wilt

Diseases: Bacterial wilt (Erwinia tracheiphila ) –
Remove and destroy infested plants. If striped or spotted cucumber beetles appear control as soon as possible.

Powdery mildew – Avoid wetting foliage if possible. Water early in the day so that aboveground parts will dry as quickly as possible. Avoid crowding plants and eliminate weeds around plants and garden area to improve air circulation.

Scab – Avoid wetting foliage if possible. Water early in the day so that aboveground parts will dry as quickly as possible. Avoid crowding plants and eliminate weeds around plants and garden area to improve air circulation.

Viral disease – Remove and destroy entire infested plant along with immediately surrounding soil and soil clinging to roots. Eliminate wild cucumber and milkweed nearby. Plant variety Multipik to mask symptons on fruit. Control aphids early in the season by washing off with water as needed early in the day. A hard stream of water can be used to remove many aphids.

Other diseases:
Downy mildew

This time of year, gardening is in high gear. In between pulling weeds and watering plants, harvesting is happening. Gazing down into the basket, one particular plant is producing like crazy… the humble yellow squash. Each day, it seems as though I am plucking more of them than any other vegetable.

Now the squash family is huge. It is split most commonly into summer squash and winter squash. Given that we are in the midst of summer, let’s focus on summer squash. Looking deeper into the summer squash family, one notable member stands out… yellow squash. To be specific, Cucurbita pepo. If you are not familiar with this branch of the squash family, they are golden-yellow and just slightly elongated. They are best when harvested at approximately 6″ – 8″ in length. At this stage, the flesh is quite tender.If you allow them to get much larger, the seeds inside become quite large and slightly bitter. The flesh also becomes much firmer and loses some of its delicate flavor. While they may not reach the legendary size of their cousins, the zucchini, huge yellow squash specimens tend to be more seeds rather than flesh… and that does not make for a great meal.

Tips for Growing Yellow Squash

  1. It is considered a warm season crop – do not plant this before the average frost-free date for your area.
  2. Squash plants HATE having their roots disturbed – for best results, direct sow rather than transplanting seedlings.
  3. Select powdery mildew resistant varieties – will generally be noted on the seed package. If the package or catalog does not give any indication, select a variety that you are interested in and then plant in a place with good air flow and do not crowd the plants. This will help reduce the likelihood of powdery mildew from developing.
  4. Choose varieties to fit your garden space – if you have limited space, go with ‘bush’ varieties. Bush varieties do not vine out across the garden. Bush varieties may also be planted in large containers with good drainage. A good example is a 5-gallon pot.

    bush variety of yellow squash

  5. Plant in full sun locations with good draining – squash plants will thrive in the sun, but the roots may rot if placed in poorly drained soil.
  6. Extreme heat can stress the plants – a stressed plant may suffer from reduced yields. Add mulch around the base of the plant which will help conserve water, keep the root zone cool, and reduce competition from weeds. Examples of mulch include straw, chopped leaves (whole leaves tend to mat when wet and may prevent adequate moisture from reaching the plant roots), hay, and even shredded newspaper.
  7. Hand pollinate to ensure high yields – squash have both male and female flowers. At the base of a female flower is a tiny, immature squash. Take a swab of pollen from a male flower (no immature squash at the base of the flower) using something such as a small paintbrush or Q-Tip and then apply to the stamens of a female flower. Yes, squash is a bee pollinated plant, but you are helping out.

    immature squash at base of female flower

  8. Protect the plants with floating row covers – this will help reduce infestation from insects such as squash bugs, cucumber beetles, and vine borers. The row cover is put in place when the squash are seedlings, but should be removed when the plants begin to flower.
  9. Good for succession planting after radishes, lettuce or peas – a yellow squash plant generally produces in approximately 50 days (give or take a few days depending on the cultivar). Refer to the seed packet or plant tag for maturity date.
  10. Don’t plant near pumpkins, winter squash, gourds, and other varieties of summer squash (such as zucchini) if saving seed – squash can readily cross pollinates with cucurbits listed earlier in this bullet point. Worth noting is that if cross-pollination has taken place, it will not be noticeable in the crop that is produced in the first year (the current season), but seed saved from the harvested crop, may bear fruit that looks and tastes different from the original yellow squash plant. To help reduce cross-pollination, you could try planting pumpkins in the front yard, gourds in the side yard, and yellow squash in the backyard. Another suggestion would be to coordinate with your friends and neighbors. Each person grows a single type of squash and then when harvest season begins, folks share with each other.

Whether you have a huge garden, small raised bed, or even a large container, you can grow yellow squash. And with the 10 growing tips listed, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest!

Zucchini seedling

Summer squashes are tender, warm-weather crops. Summer squashes include crookneck, pattypan, straightneck, scallop, vegetable marrow, and zucchini.

Sow summer squash indoors 4 to 3 weeks before the last expected frost in spring. Sow summer squash outdoors when the soil temperature has warmed to 70°F (21°C). Protect squash in the garden from cool temperatures with row covers.

Summer squash matures 50 to 60 frost-free days after sowing and will bear fruit for weeks as long as the weather remains warm.

Sowing and Planting Tips:

  • Grow summer squash from seeds or seedlings.
  • Seed is viable for 6 years.
  • Direct sow summer squash in the garden in spring after all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed to 70°F (21°C). In warm-winter regions, sow squash in midwinter for harvest in early summer.
  • Summer squash seeds will not germinate at a soil temperature below 60°F (15°C).
  • To get an early start, sow seed indoors 4 to 3 weeks before planting out. The indoor temperature should be 80 to 90°F (27-32°C) until germination. Grow seedlings at 75°F (24°C).
  • Start seed indoors in peat pots filled with seed starting mix.
  • Sow seed ½ to 1 inch (13mm-2.5 cm) deep.
  • Seeds germinate in 7 to 10 days at 85°F (29°C) or warmer.
  • Transplant summer squash into the garden after the soil has warmed to at least 70°F (21°C).
  • Space plants in the garden 12 to 18 inches (30-45 cm) apart in all directions.
  • Thin successful plants to 36 inches (90 cm) apart.
  • Water to keep the soil from drying.
  • Fertilize with fish emulsion or a soluble complete fertilizer at half strength.
  • Add aged compost to planting beds in advance of transplanting.
  • Summer squash prefers a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.8.
  • Grow summer squash in full sun for best yield.
  • Avoid planting summer squash where cucumbers or melons have grown recently.
  • Common summer squash pest enemies include aphids, cucumber beetles, flea beetles, squash bugs, squash vine borers, slugs, and snails.
  • Common diseases include bacterial wilt, fusarium wilt, downy mildew, powdery mildew, cucumber mosaic.

Interplanting: Plant summer squash with bush beans, corn, dill, eggplant, lettuce, cucumbers, squash, and tomatoes.

Container Growing: Squashes are not a good choice for container growing. They require significant room to spread and grow.

Summer Squashes Planting Calendar

  • 4-2 weeks before the last frost in spring: start seed indoors for transplanting into the garden later.
  • 2-3 weeks after the last frost in spring: transplant seedlings to the garden.
  • 3 weeks after the last frost in spring: direct sow seed in the garden; minimum soil temperature is 65°F; protect with row covers if nights or days are cool.

Summer squash matures 50 to 60 frost-free days after sowing and will bear fruit for weeks as long as the weather remains warm.

Summer Squash Recommended Varieties

There many types and varieties of summer squash; here are a few:

  • Zucchini: glossy, dark green or yellow cylindrical fruits; ‘Gold Rush’, ‘Spacemaster’; ‘Eightball’ is round.
  • Scallop or pattypan: ‘Sunburst’, ‘Starship’, ‘Golden Scallopini Bush’.
  • Round or globe: ‘Eight Ball’.
  • Crookneck and Straightneck

Botanical Name: Cucurbita pepo

Summer squash are a member of the Cucurbitaceae family; other members cucumbers, melons, watermelon, and pumpkins.

More tips: How to Grow Summer Squash.

08 May Tips for Growing Summer Squash

Posted at 08:00h in Growing by kellogggarden

Summer squash is one of the most popular vegetables in the garden — they are easy to grow, are prolific producers, and offer tasty and nutritious additions to your summer gatherings. Here’s a rundown on how to grow summer squash successfully — and if you’re looking for additional, inspiring ways to prepare your squash harvest, check out Surprising Ways to Eat Your Summer Squash.

When to plant: Set out transplants after all danger of frost has passed, and when soil temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees. Seedlings sown indoors can be brought outside at 3 weeks old. If squash bugs are a problem, delay planting until early summer to avoid an infestation. You can keep planting throughout the summer, but your last summer squash should be planted 12 weeks before your first average fall frost.

How to plant: Choose a sunny garden site with well-drained soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Plant summer squash seeds 8” apart and 1” deep, then thin seedlings out 3 feet apart. If you’re setting out transplants, plant them 3 feet apart so they have plenty of room to grow. Place row covers over transplants after planting to keep them safe from squash bugs. Water consistently and deeply for the best harvest.

Make sure they pollinate: Squash have male and female blooms — and it’s the female blooms that form into the squash. They are easy to distinguish because the female blossoms have a little bulge at the base of the flower, while the male blossom simply attaches to a thin stem. The male blooms exist to pollinate the females, and if this process doesn’t take place, you won’t have a harvest. Bees typically do a great job of this for you, but if you have 5 or fewer squash plants, you can ensure their pollination yourself. Simply take the male flower and shake it inside the female blossom, or use a small paintbrush to move pollen from the inside of the male flower to the female one.

When to harvest: Harvest squash when they are baby-sized for tender eating, or wait until they are full grown. Harvest twice weekly, using a small knife to cut them from the stem, leaving a short stub of the stem attached. Wash squash in cool water and store in the refrigerator.

How to Grow Superb Summer Squash

  • Although summer squash is a naturally vigorous grower, it benefits from regular care. Sunken pots make it easy to water, and a cover crop of hairy vetch helps suppress weeds.Photo/Illustration: John Bray
  • For deep watering, embed a plastic nursery pot in the soil before planting your squash.Photo/Illustration: John Bray
  • Photo/Illustration: John Bray
  • Photo/Illustration: Christopher Clapp
  • Photo/Illustration: John Bray
  • Photo/Illustration: John Bray
  • Photo/Illustration: John Bray
  • Photo/Illustration: John Bray
  • Photo/Illustration: Marc Vassallo

There is no doubt about it-summer squash is a prolific producer. Around here folks lock their car doors in midsummer, not to prevent theft but to keep gardeners from throwing their excess zucchini into the back seat. We avoid tiring of zucchini by growing a wide range of the tastiest summer squash varieties and harvesting them at their peak. By planting several succession crops, watering the root zone with the help of sunken pots, and smothering weeds with a cover crop, we reap a steady harvest from healthy plants over a long season. This keeps summer squash high on the list of favorites for the members of our community supported agriculture (CSA) farm, Five Springs Farm.

Begin succession planting when the soil warms
We keep summer squash in harvest throughout the season with succession plantings. We plant half our summer squash when the ground has thoroughly warmed up after the last frost. The soil temperature must be 65°F or higher for good germination. We used to start squash (which has very delicate roots) inside and transplant out after threat of frost, but we found that seeds planted along with the transplants matured at about the same time. If you need to plant inside because of cool soil, give each plant its own pot, and carefully transplant into the garden two weeks later. Squash plants are very tender and need protection if a late frost threatens.

A month after the first planting, we do a second sowing. If we can find the space, we will do an additional planting a few weeks after that. We pull out and compost the first plants as they slow down. This gives us young, strong, prolific plants until the first fall frost.

Sink pots for deep watering

An ordinary 1-gallon plastic nursery pot with holes on both the sides and the bottom can be used to create a well in the center of the squash hill.

When we plant squash in the late spring, we are already thinking ahead about how to make summer watering easier. We begin by sowing squash seeds in hills 4 feet apart, though some garden guides suggest that 3 feet is sufficient. To prepare the bed, we mark where the hills will be and dig a hole 2 feet deep by 1 or 2 feet wide. Summer squash requires fertile soil to support its large leaves and rapid growth, so we put in a couple of shovelfuls of compost and build a hill with the garden dirt dug from the hole. As we backfill the hole, we bury a 1-gallon nursery pot in the middle. Landscapers throw these pots away by the dozen, so it’s easy to find several for free. The rim of the pot should be an inch or two out of the ground when the hill is finished, and there should be no soil in the pot. We plant four to six seeds per hill, about 1⁄2 inch deep. We just poke them into the ground 2 to 3 inches away from the pots.

To prepare a planting hill, dig a hole 2 feet deep and fill lit half full with compost. The plant roots will respond with vigor when they reach the compost. Place the pot in the center of the hole, with the lip extending above the ground 1 to 2 inches. Backfill the hole with the original soil. Prepare the seed bed by raking the soil smooth around the pot and tamping it down with a soil rake. Try to avoid getting any soil in the pot.

Once the seeds have germinated, we thin each hill to the two or three strongest plants. The plants turn a deep green when the squash roots hit the compost. As the plants grow larger, the sunken nursery pots give us the advantage of watering at root level. We also shovel some compost into the pots later in the season to give the plants compost tea as we water. Summer squash is a thirsty plant; we water in the nursery pots once or twice a week, even if there has been rain.

Cross section of a squash hill

To make watering easier, sink a pot in the ground at planting time and sow the squash seeds around the outside of the pot. When you fill the pot with water, it drains out the holes in the bottom, immediately reaching the roots of the plants. Plant a cover crop of hairy vetch around the hills to discourage weeds and feed the soil.

Fertilize and control weeds with hairy vetch

A handful of hairy vetch seeds is all that’s needed to sow a cover crop between two hills of squash 4 feet apart.

When the seedlings are up and thinned, it’s time to plant hairy vetch between the hills. The vetch prevents erosion and keeps the ground cooler on hot summer days. It also crowds out most weeds in the space between the hills. But its greatest virtue is that, as a legume, it changes the nitrogen in the air into a form that can be taken up by the squash plants, a process known as nitrogen fixation.

To plant the vetch, we broadcast the seeds thickly on bare ground, starting about 6 inches from the squash seedlings, then rake them in and tamp lightly with the back of the rake. We water frequently until the vetch is well established. During fall clean up, we turn it into the soil to enhance the bed for next year’s crop.


Squash pests and diseases are a challenge
As the season progresses, one of the first concerns you may have is that the plants don’t appear to be setting fruit. Squash is not self-pollinating, so bees are important in the fruiting process. Also, don’t worry if the first few flowers don’t set fruit at all. Squash has male and female flowers, and the males usually bloom first.

Competition from weeds is usually not a problem for us because summer squash grows rapidly and has huge leaves that shade out weeds near the plants. By using the technique of interplanting the hills with vetch, we can effectively manage any weeds that may germinate.

There are several insects that do harm to our summer squash crops. One of the most serious is the squash bug, a dingy brownish insect 1⁄2 inch or more long, which has a very disagreeable odor when crushed. They resist most organic pesticides, so we handpick the bugs every couple of days to keep them in check. We look for their eggs, a little smaller than sesame seeds, shiny and orange-brown, usually clustered on the underside of the leaves. We scrape them off carefully but don’t worry if we damage the leaf a little in the process; the insect can do far more harm. We also keep an eye out for the nymphs, which look a little like gray, overgrown aphids. We handpick them also.

Squash bug eggs are a shiny orange-brown and can be scraped off the leaves with your fingers. In the nymphal stage, squash bugs look like overgrown gray aphids. The adult squash bug is an unattractive brown color with an unappealing smell when crushed. Dropping the bugs into a jar of soapy water is one way to control them.

Cucumber beetles in the squash patch can spread bacterial wilt. They prefer cucumbers, so we can handpick (you have to be fast!) the few we find on squash. If the vines suddenly wilt, it could be a symptom of bacterial wilt. Remove the infected parts of the plant, but be sure to disinfect your pruners before using them again. There is no treatment for bacterial wilt, so it is important to monitor frequently for cucumber beetles.

Squash vine borer can also cause wilting leaves. If you suspect vine borer, look for a small hole near the base of the plant. We usually slit the vine from that point, destroy the borer, and then try to save the plant. Be on the lookout for the adult vine borer, a rather pretty, clear-winged moth with a red abdomen- a sure sign of borer activity.

As the plants age, the leaves often start to turn whitish, most likely from powdery mildew. The plants will still produce fruit for a while after this process begins, but this is the time when we are happy to have planted another crop of squash. Despite these pest and disease problems, succession plantings keep us far enough ahead of the game that we are supplied with summer squash until we have had our fill.

Timely harvests and tasty varieties

Clockwise from top: ‘Eight Ball’ zucchini, Lebanese ‘White Bush’, a yellow crookneck called ‘Sundance’, ‘condor’ zucchini, and the yellow pattypan ‘sunburst’.

Zukes the size of baseball bats are impressive enough, but they’ve grown far beyond their best flavor. Since squash can grow rapidly, check plants daily when they start to produce. Keeping the squash picked promotes a steady supply. Summer squash that is too large becomes bland, but is still suitable for zucchini bread.

We’ve tried many varieties, and our long-time favorite is ‘Sunburst’. A yellow pattypan or scallopini type of summer squash, it is both attractive and tasty, especially when harvested at 2 to 4 inches. A Lebanese variety named ‘White Bush’ (also called Mid-East or cousa type) is a bulbous light-green squash with white speckles. It can be picked small but will not lose its flavor if left to get a little larger, around 7 to 8 inches. ‘White Bush’ is also useful as a stuffing squash.

‘Condor’ is a standard green zucchini known for its nutty flavor, perfect shape and color, and high yields. ‘Condor’ is best when harvested at 7 inches. We couldn’t resist a new zucchini this year called ‘Eight Ball’. This shiny, speckled, dark squash is mature when it is a little larger than a pool ball. It is early (40 days) and compact, sweet, and tasty.

To round out our varieties, we grow a standard yellow crookneck named ‘Sundance’, a prolific producer that can be harvested early (47 days) and continues to produce. Crookneck and straightneck squash should be harvested at 4 to 6 inches for the best flavor.

Summer sauash recipes:

• Zucchini with Roasted Peppers, Corn, and Cream
• Golden Squash Blossom Crema
• Quick-Fried Zucchini with Toasted Garlic and Lime
• Zucchini with Zip
• Mexican-Inspired Summer Squash Sauté
• Moroccan-Style Summer Squash Saute

by Jo Meller and Jim Sluyter
August 2000
from issue #28

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