I am the crazy cat lady of the house plant world. I have so many of them. Closing the curtains has become quite the task, as you snake between specimens all vying for light. And yet I continue to take cuttings.
Many house plants are easily rooted in water. I love to watch roots grow, particularly in winter, when there’s something so cheering about a life so willing. Truth be known, it makes most sense to take cuttings in spring and summer. On top of that, cuttings taken in water are somewhat inferior to those taken in soil, in part because water doesn’t offer the most nutritious beginning. But that doesn’t stop me.
Philodendrons, begonias, tradescantia, pilea, peperomias, ctenanthe (but sadly not calathea) and rhipsalis are just a few of the types that will readily root in water.
In general, cuttings should be 10-15cm long – larger cuttings may take, but the ratio of stem to root often makes for a weak plant. Use a sharp knife or secateurs and cut just below where a leaf attaches to the stem, known as a node. If you leave a section of stem below the node, this will likely rot off.
As well as the lowest leaf, you may need to remove a few more, leaving just the top two or three. Essentially, any part of the cutting that sits in water should be free of leaves that will rot. Fetid water is not a nice place to start a life.
Also remove any flowers that are present, to prevent the cutting from developing seed, which will waste energy that would be better diverted to creating roots. And, again, the flowers may go mouldy and rot.
Little vases, water or milk bottles are ideal for rooting. If there is a wide neck, you may have to create some sort of mesh across the top so that the cutting doesn’t fall into the water. You can also have several cuttings together in one container.
Choose a smaller container than you’d imagine. The cutting will release hormones into the water to encourage rooting, and a great volume of water will dilute them, so that the process takes longer.
Rooting will generally occur in three to four weeks, though some begonias and pilea take much longer. Keep the cuttings somewhere bright and warm, and be patient. If a particular stem in a group of cuttings goes mushy and starts to rot, whip it out before it contaminates the rest. When there are numerous roots, 2-5cm long, the cutting is ready to be potted up.
Pot into pre-moistened potting compost in a suitably sized container with drainage, and keep the compost moist but not sodden until you see new growth. If the cutting grew in the water – and many do – it may be a good idea to prune it back a little when potting up. This will force new growth at the base and make for a bushier plant.
Pothos are one of the quintessential easy care houseplants for beginning gardeners. They’re readily available almost everywhere and are very easy on the wallet. Because of their moderate to fast growth rate, yours will need transplanting at some point. This is all about Pothos repotting including the mix to use, steps to take and when to do it.
You’ll see me repotting my Golden Pothos and Pothos N Joy in this post and video. Other popular varieties are: Jade Pothos, Glacier, Marble Queen, Neon and Pearls & Jade. The steps taken and materials used here apply to all varieties of Pothos, no matter which one you are repotting.
Not only is a Pothos plant easy to maintain but it’s also a snap to propagate. Those long trails appear in no time and you’ll see little roots pushing out at every leaf node. I root my Pothos cuttings in water (Pothos propagation and video coming soon!) and plant them in the soil mix below once those roots are well along.
Golden Pothos hanging in the nursery with their renowned long trails.
Pothos aren’t fussy at all when it comes to the mix they’re planted in. I always use a good quality organic potting soil which is peat based, well nourished and drains well. Potting soil doesn’t actually contain soil. Garden soil is way too heavy for houseplants. Make sure whatever mix you buy says it’s formulated for houseplants somewhere on the bag.
- Best time for Pothos repotting:
- Soil mix for Pothos repotting:
- Steps to Pothos repotting:
- How often I repot my Pothos:
- Pot size you’ll need:
- My trick for Pothos with long trails:
- How to Care for and Grow Your Pothos
- How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Pothos
- Devil’s Ivy Overview
- Golden Pothos Care
- Pothos Propagation: How To Propagate A Pothos
- Pothos Propagation – How to Propagate a Pothos
- Planting and re-potting of pothos
- Multiplying pothos
- Pruning pothos
- Watering pothos
- Caring for pothos
- Smart tip about pothos
- Everything You Need To Know About Pruning Pothos Houseplants
- Is There Any Way To Make A Pothos Fuller?
- Why Are Pothos Houseplants So Popular?
- Is A Pothos A Good Plant For Beginners?
Best time for Pothos repotting:
Like all houseplants, spring & summer are the ideal times. If you live in a climate with temperate winters like me, early fall is fine. In a nutshell, you want to get it done at least 6 weeks before the colder weather sets in. Houseplants prefer not to be disturbed in the winter months & the roots settle in much better in the warmer months.
I repotted these 2 Pothos at the very end of March.
My 2 Pothos after being repotted. Time to go back in the house!
Soil mix for Pothos repotting:
Potting soil. I use Ocean Forest by Fox Farm. Here are the ingredients: Composted forest humus, sphagnum peat moss, Pacific Northwest sea-going fish emulsion, crab meal, shrimp meal, earthworm castings, sandy loam, perlite, bat guano, granite dust, Norwegian kelp, and oyster shell (for pH adjustment).
Charcoal. 1-3 handfuls depending on the pot size. Charcoal improves the drainage & absorbs impurities & odors.
Coco coir chips & fiber. 2-4 handfuls. This environmentally friendly alternative to peat moss is pH neutral, increases nutrient holding capacity & improves aeration. Pothos like to climb up trees in their native environments so I figure they’ll appreciate the chips & fiber.
Note: The charcoal, chips & compost are optional but I always have them on hand for my various & frequent potting projects. You can use all potting soil if you’d like. Another mix I’ve used for houseplants is 1/2 potting soil & 1/2 succulent & cactus mix.
I also mixed in a few handfuls of compost as I was planting as well as a 1/4″topping of worm compost. This is my favorite amendment, which I use sparingly because it’s rich. I’m currently using Worm Gold Plus. Here’s why I like it so much.
You can read how I feed my houseplants with worm compost & compost here: Compost for Houseplants.
Steps to Pothos repotting:
I’d suggest watching the video to get a better idea.
Water Pothos a few days before repotting. You don’t want your plant to be stressed during the process.
Put the plant on its side & gently press on the grow pot to loosen the root ball away.
Fill the grow pot with the amount of mix required to bring the top of the root ball even with or slightly below the top of the grow pot.
Place the Pothos in the pot & fill in around with mix. Top with worm compost & compost. (optional)
How often I repot my Pothos:
Pothos are moderate to fast growers. If you have it in low light, the growth rate will be slower. In their native environments they climb up trees & can reach 60′. That’s why they’re considered to be invasive, hard to get rid of & have earned another common name: Devil’s Ivy. Fortunately, we don’t have to worry about this in our homes!
I generally repot my Pothos every 2-3 years. As the trails grow longer, the roots grow more extensive. I could see the roots through the drain holes of the grow pots of my 2 but they weren’t popping out yet.
You can see the roots all bunched up at the bottom of the root ball. Pothos don’t mind being slightly root bound but they’ll be much happier with fresh new mix & a bigger pot.
Pot size you’ll need:
I usually go up a size – from 4″ to 6″ pot as an example. My Golden Pothos was in a 6″ grow pot & it went up to an 8″. The smaller N Joy was in a 4″ & I repotted it into a 6″ grow pot.
If your 6″ Pothos is large & extremely pot bound, then you can jump to a 10″ pot. Pot size doesn’t matter but I like to keep in in scale with the size of the plant.
Make sure the grow pot or decorative pot you’re planting your Pothos into has at least 1 drain hole. You want the excess water to readily drain out.
My trick for Pothos with long trails:
If your Pothos has numerous long trails they’ll get in the way of your repotting mission. My Golden Pothos has 7′ trails so I carefully put them in a large pillow case & loosely tied it towards the top. You’ll see me doing this towards the end of the video.
This way you can easily move the trails from side to side when you’re filling in the pot with mix. Untie the pillow case when you’re done & you shouldn’t have any broken leaves or stems. I use this method for working with hanging succulents which have leaves prone to falling off.
My Golden Pothos with its trails “contained” in a pillow case during the repotting process.
I watered both of these Pothos well right after being repotted. It took a few soakings to really get them well soaked because the mix ingredients were all dry.
You can find this plant, more houseplants and lots of info in our simple and easy to digest houseplant care guide: Keep Your Houseplants Alive.
Pothos are so to care for and tolerant of lower to medium light situations making them a “go to” houseplant. One of my friends has had a Pothos for over 20 years now – now that’s longevity! Propagation post coming soon.
Pothos Care Posts:
5 Things To Love About Pothos
Pothos Care: The Easiest Trailing Houseplant
11 Reasons Why Pothos is the Houseplant for You
Learn more about repotting houseplants:
How To Repot A Money Tree
Houseplant Repotting: Arrowhead Plant
What To Know About Planting Aloe Vera In Containers
Repotting Snake Plants: The Mix To Use & How To Do It
Transplanting My Dracaena Marginata With Its Cuttings
How to Plant & Water Succulents In Pots Without Drain Holes
Repotting Peperomia Plants (Plus The Proven Soil Mix To Use!)
How to Care for and Grow Your Pothos
How to maintain a beautiful and healthy Pothos
Take care of your Pothos and it will take care of you! Below are simple tips to continue caring for your Pothos over time.
Pruning – Remove yellow leaves all year round, and prune often if you’d like a fuller, bushier look. Simply cut the tendrils just below the node.
Cleaning – With so much foliage, the Pothos can be annoying to clean! Mist regularly to keep dust off, and once ever few months use a damp cloth to clean each leaf and reveal a healthy shine (also helps the plant soak in more light!).
Repotting – Houseplants grow much slower than they would in the wild. Depending on the size of your plant and the density of the roots, this is nice to do every 2-3 years to provide fresh nutrients and encourage new growth.
When to repot – Pothos are incredibly hardy plants and can live in the same pot for years. If you want your Pothos to grow very large, repot every 2-3 years.
Pot sizing – if you want your plant to grow bushier, find a nursery pot that’s 2” in diameter larger than the current pot. If you want your plant to stay the same height, you can reuse the same pot and simply change the soil.
Get your hands dirty – spread out newspaper on the floor, remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as possible so that you have clean roots. Place the plant in the center of the pot, add new soil and pat down firmly. Water the soil thoroughly and place the plant in an area with bright indirect light. Your plant will take 2-4 weeks to settle from the shock and adjust to its new home.
Staking – Some Pothos owners like to stake their plant to encourage vertical growth. You can do this by simply inserting a moss totem and attaching the stems of the plant to it with prongs.
What if I told you that the devil’s ivy plant was given that name because it’s nearly impossible to kill?
As a houseplant enthusiast, any plant that’s hard to kill is a plant that I want to grow!
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Devil’s Ivy Overview
|Common Name(s)||Devil’s ivy, ivy arum, hunter’s robe, Solomon Islands ivy, taro vine|
|Scientific Name||Epipremnum aureum|
|Height||Uo to 40 feet|
|Light||Bright, indirect sun|
|Soil||Well-draining potting mix|
|Fertilizer||Feed every 2 weeks with houseplant fertilizer, once a month in winter|
Golden pothos is one of the most popular houseplants in the world because it is so easy to care for.
It’s a gorgeous vining plant with heart-shaped leaves that are variegated in green and yellow. It’s a fast grower, hardy, and can tolerate a wide variety of growing conditions.
The vines can reach 10′ or longer, making them ideal for hanging baskets where they will create beautiful draping foliage.
If a moss pole or other type of support is provided, the devil’s ivy plant will create a beautiful climbing houseplant.
Golden Pothos Care
Devil’s ivy care is pretty straightforward. It takes the name devil’s ivy simply because it’s hard to kill and is actually an invasive species if grown outdoors in many regions.
While that’s bad for people battling it outside, it’s actually GOOD for a houseplant – it means even if you’re a beginner, it’s hard to kill it!
An excellent beginner plant, it’s not fussy at all and can thrive in both bright sunlight or dim lighting inside your home. The only lighting conditions it can’t tolerate are full, direct sun and complete darkness.
If exposed to bright, filtered light, your devil’s ivy will have more yellow variegation in its leaves.
The root system of pothos plants is rather shallow, so you only need to water a little bit to penetrate the roots. Water it as often as needed during the growing months of spring and summer. Just avoid soaking the soil completely and you should be fine.
As far as soil goes, a standard houseplant potting mix is perfectly fine. It should be well-draining, but hold on to enough water to remain moist in between watering (devil’s ivy doesn’t like super dry soil).
Golden pothos is quite hardy and can survive without fertilizer for months on end. However, if you want to produce vigorous growth and foliage, give it a 20-20-20 mix.
Fertilize during the growing season and avoid fertilizing during the winter months.
If the plant stops producing new growth, reduce the frequency of fertilizing to once every two or three months.
Pothos does well in a smaller pot, so feel free to keep it in the pot you buy it in for quite some time. I have had mine in a 6″ pot I bought at the nursery for over half a year and it’s doing just fine!
However you can repot it if you want more vigorous growth. Just add extra soil and pick a pot 1-3″ larger than the existing pot. You don’t need to be extremely careful when repotting because the plant is so hardy.
You should prune your plant to control its shape over the year. Sometimes it will send out vines that look a bit bare except for foliage at the very bottom, so pruning those back will make your plant more aesthetically pleasing.
They grow so quickly that you can prune back heavily to reshape your plant and it will start coming back in no time.
Along with being easy to care for, golden pothos is also one of the easiest houseplants to propagate!
You can simply clip the vines and root golden pothos in water. New roots will form at leaf nodes, which are directly under a leaf.
When you make your cutting, remove the lowest leaves and place the cuttings in water.
You can also propagate by air layering, but most gardeners use the water method because of how quickly the cuttings form new roots.
You don’t even have to worry about trimming the plant for propagation because the vine will start a new shoot at the cut area!
Golden Pothos doesn’t have many pest or disease problems.
Like I’ve mentioned, it’s hard to actually kill this plant, even if you try. There aren’t a lot of mistakes you can make that will harm the plant.
Pests and Diseases
Although the plant is susceptible to several pests, infestations are rare. Fungal and bacterial problems are the main cause of failure with this houseplant. These problems which cause root rot and leaf spots can be avoided by making sure the soil is only moist and not soaked.
Pests include spider mites and mealy bugs, but mealy bugs are most common. They can easily be removed by using a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or an insecticidal soap.
Q. My golden pothos plant is growing like crazy and I don’t know what to do with all of the vines – help!
A. When you cut off parts of a pothos vine, typically new vines grow right out of the cut. Sometimes you’ll even get two new vines, just like the heads of a hydra. To prune down a crazy pothos plant, you should either wrap the vines so they’re more manageable, or cut some completely back to the soil surface.
Q. Why are the leaves on the bottom of my pothos turning yellow?
There are a few reasons this could be happening:
- Over / under watering can cause yellowing, so check water levels
- As a pothos plant ages, the oldest leaves eventually yellow and die off, so it could be the natural progression of your plant
- You may have a nutrient deficiency, so try adding a half strength liquid fertilizer in with your next watering
Q. What should I water my pothos plant with? Tap water, distilled…?
A. Unlike some houseplants, golden pothos is fine with normal tap water. You may want to let it cool to room temperature though to avoid shocking the root system with a sudden temperature change.
Q. What is the best pruning strategy for devil’s ivy plant?
A. If you don’t prune it at all, it will become a vining plant and drop a lot of foliage and vines all over the place. If you want to control it and make your pothos fuller, all you need to do is cut off a vine completely to thin it out. You can also root these cuttings if you want even more golden pothos!
Q. Why are my pothos leaves curling?
There are about four different reasons your pothos leaves are curling
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Pothos Propagation: How To Propagate A Pothos
Pothos plants are one of the most popular houseplants. They aren’t fussy about light or water or fertilization and when it comes to how to propagate a pothos, the answer is as easy as the node on your stem.
Pothos propagation begins with the root nodes on the stem right below the leaf or branch junctures. These tiny bumps on the stems of rooting pothos are the key to propagating pothos. When your aging plant begins to get leggy or your full and healthy plant grows too long, simply give your plant a haircut.
Pothos Propagation – How to Propagate a Pothos
Begin by snipping off 4- to 6-inch lengths of healthy stem for your pothos cuttings, making sure each cutting has four or more leaves. Remove the leaf that is closest to the cut end. Once you’ve cut your stems, you’re ready to begin rooting. Pothos propagation can be accomplished in two ways. You might want to try both to see which one works best for you.
The first method of propagating pothos is to place the cut ends of your stems in water. An old glass or jelly jar is perfect for rooting pothos. Place the jar of pothos cuttings in a place that gets plenty of light, but not direct sunlight. About a month after the roots begin to show, you can plant the cuttings in soil and treat them as you would any other houseplant. Be careful though, the longer pothos cuttings remain in water, the harder time they have adapting to soil. It is best to transplant rooted pothos cuttings as soon as they start roots.
The preferred method of how to propagate a pothos begins the same as the first. Take the pothos cuttings and remove the first leaf above the cut ends. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make sure you cover the first set of root nodes. Set the cuttings in a potting mixture of half peat moss and half perlite or sand. Keep the soil moist and keep your rooting pothos out of direct sunlight. Roots should develop after one month and after two or three months, the new plants will be ready.
With its attractive leaves and low maintenance personality, pothos is one of the best houseplants for new plant parents to grow. Those with trailing vines, like golden pothos, love to fall over the sides of containers. It’s a fun plant to decorate with and a favorite of brown thumb gardeners because it likes low light and minimal watering.
This is also one of the easiest plants to start propagating by cuttings. DIYers will love this trick for getting more pothos plants for free. If your pothos is getting a little leggy or you’re just looking for more plants, start with pothos.
6 Steps to Propagating Pothos
Step 1: Decide how much you want to cut from your plant. Make snips directly below the lowest leaf node. Nodes are those tiny brown bumps on the stem that are the key to growing new roots.
Step 2: Make more cuttings. You’ll need a stem with at least two leaves to root your plant and you’ll want to remove the leaf that is closest to the stem. So clip vines into more cuttings, leaving at least one node on each. Your new roots will form from the node.
Step 3: Place Cuttings in Water: Fill a small mason jar or other glass with water and place the cuttings into the water so the cut ends remain submerged. Place the cuttings indoors near a window, but not in direct sunlight. Check cuttings every few days and refresh water every 1 to 2 weeks.
Step 4: Wait until your cuttings have at least one inch of roots to transplant. This should take about a month. If left in water, your pothos plant will continue to grow roots. The longer they grow in water, however, the harder it will be for them to transition to soil.
Step 5: Pick a container with proper drainage holes and fill two-thirds of the way with Espoma’s Organic potting mix. Place the cuttings around the pot edges and add more soil to keep the cuttings in place. Add more cuttings to the middle and add soil as needed. Water your new pothos plant until water runs out of the bottom of the pot.
Step 6: Place your new pothos in an area where it will get adequate light. Fertilize once a month with Espoma’s Indoor! liquid plant food for more growth.
Looking for more easy care houseplants? Check out Garden Answer’s favorite low light houseplants!
Where to Buy
Organic Potting Mix
Pothos or scindapsus is a plant native to the tropics with very ornamental leafage.
Key Pothos facts
Name – Pothos or Scindapsus
Family – Araceae
Type – indoor plant
Height – 6 ½ feet (2 meters)
Exposure – light but not direct sunlight.
Soil – indoor plant soil mix
Foliage – evergreen
Flowering – rare as en indoor plant
Often veined with different colors, shiny and abundant, its foliage appeals to us and spiffs up our homes.
Adopt the pothos and you’ll be more than satisfied!
Planting and re-potting of pothos
Pothos or Scindapsus is mostly grown in pots under our latitudes, but can be grown in the ground if it is protected in a heated greenhouse in winter.
Planting pothos in pots
- Scindapsus likes a tight fit and thus doesn’t need a large pot.
- What suits pothos best is to plant it in repotting soil mix or even better, indoor plant soil mix.
- Select a luminous spot but without direct sun and stay away from heat sources such as radiators.
- Repotting can be performed from February to October.
Outdoor growing of pothos is only possible in tropical environments
- Mix your garden soil to soil mix and choose a spot that is in part sun, but not hot.
Take note that growing pothos outdoors is only possible wherever the climate is relatively warm in winter.
Preparing cuttings from pothos is the easiest and fastest method to propagate the plant.
Cutting preparation is best performed in spring.
- Collect about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) cuttings not bearing flowers.
- Eliminate lower leaves to keep only the topmost pair of leaves.
- Dip the base of the stem in powdered rooting agents (this is optional but recommended).
- Plant the cutting(s) in special cutting soil mix.
- Install a transparent garden cloche in order to retain moisture.
- Put the cuttings in a rather warm location, luminous but not in direct sunlight.
- Keep the soil mix moist.
You can also divide the pothos by collecting the offshoots that grow at its base and replant them in light and moist substrate.
It isn’t necessary to prune it.
Aerial roots are very important for the plant, so it is recommended not to touch them.
In order to reduce the branches or reshape your pothos, you can shorten the branches by half in spring.
Water the plant only when the surface of the soil is dry, and avoid excess water so as to not suffocate the roots.
Space your watering rounds as much as you can during the winter rest phase, because the plant only has very limited water needs.
Caring for pothos
Pothos is actually a vine, either climbing or hanging depending on the lattice provided.
Although organic fertilizer can rekindle the plant’s vigor, it isn’t a requirement, either.
This shrub grows indoor very well all year round, and can be brought outside from May to September as soon at the temperature permits.
A temperature of 65 to 75°F (18 to 25°C) is recommended for proper growth.
Smart tip about pothos
Pothos is among the air-purifying indoor plants!
- Read also: Plants that purify the air inside our homes.
People tend to choose Pothos houseplants because they’re supposed to be easy to grow and maintain. While these plants generally live up to their reputation, there are some things you should know to get the most out of them. That’s why I put together this guide on how to prune Pothos houseplants.
How to prune Pothos houseplants: Start by locating damaged, discolored, dead, and dying leaves. Using sterile pruners, cut them off the stem just below a healthy leaf node. Then, take care of any overgrown sections, shaping the plant to your liking.
There’s a lot to love about Pothos plants and they can stay with you for a long time if you learn how to take proper care of them. Pruning a Pothos houseplant is essential not only for how the plant looks but also to keep it healthy and thriving.
Everything You Need To Know About Pruning Pothos Houseplants
As popular as it is as a houseplant, Pothos is considered an invasive plant species and has earned the rather unflattering nickname of Devil’s Ivy. This luscious, trailing plant looks amazing in a hanging basket or a pot set on the table or floor but as it grows, it easily loops around almost anything in its path.
While this growth definitely adds to its charm, it’s often seen as both a blessing and a curse. If left unattended, a Pothos houseplant grows large, lush, and spreads quickly, giving your home or office a jungle-like atmosphere. This is why it’s so important to learn how to prune Pothos houseplants.
Pruning Pothos is a fairly simple process, but there are certain steps you should take to make sure it’s done correctly. With a little knowledge, you will develop your skills and boost your confidence so you feel more comfortable pruning Pothos and your other houseplants too.
When To Prune Pothos Houseplants
One of the first things to consider is when and when not to prune your Pothos plant. Thankfully, Pothos is considerably more hardy than many other houseplants, but it’s still better to prune it when it is actively growing. Pruning at the wrong time can lead to bare stems and vines or a stressed plant.
It’s best only to prune your Pothos during its growing period which is typically from spring into early fall. This allows the Pothos to recover quickly from the stress of being pruned and quickly establish new growth.
Why Should Prune Pothos Houseplants?
With the right growing conditions, Pothos plants grow quickly, and can become quite large over time. Maintaining the plant’s size so that it is suitable for the location it is growing in your home is the main reason for pruning, rather than for the health of the plant.
Pruning also helps stimulate new growth and can help to thicken foliage it you wish for a more compact growth for your plant. Some people prefer to grow Pothos within pots, so compact growth will be more desirable. Others prefer a trailing, vining growth habit, so pruning non-dominant stems can help to focus growth on longer stems and extend the length of the overall plant.
What Equipment Do You Need?
Equipment is pretty straightforward. All you need is a pair of sharp scissors and a few sheets of paper towels or newspapers to put under the plant as to not make a mess of the area where you’re pruning your plant.
You should ensure that your pruning shears are clean and sterile. Pruning is a common way disease is spread from one houseplant to the next, so take a few minutes to clean your pruners with rubbing alcohol or clean them with hot, soapy water.
How To Prune Pothos Houseplants
Now, down to the nitty-gritty. The pruning process begins with a careful examination of the plant. Locate any and all the damaged, discolored, dead, and dying leaves and stems you can find. These should be the first to go before you prune any healthy leaves or stems.
To encourage new growth and maintain your plant’s health, it’s best to find a spot where the stem is vigorous. Cut the stem just below a healthy leaf node. To clarify, you should leave the node on the plant. For those unsure of what a leaf node looks like, it’s simply a small protrusion on the stem where new growth forms.
Take at least an inch of healthy stem off along with the unhealthy stem and foliage. This will reduce the risk of the cut end from developing the same issue.
In addition to taking care of the sickly parts of your Pothos, you’ll probably also need to take care of some overgrown sections of healthy vines as well. You do this in a similar manner but first, plan exactly how you want your plant to look when you’re done.
There are many ways to trim your Pothos and each is attractive in its own unique way. Just be sure not to overdo any particular area and do some thoughtful planning beforehand.
After you have an idea of how you want your plant to look, start cutting the stems, shaping the plant into the general shape you desire, before fine-tuning later on.
You may wish to remove some whole, healthy stems all the way back to the soil. To do this properly, carefully trace each vine back to the soil and cut it anywhere from two to four inches from the soil surface. If possible, make your cut just after a leaf node.
Once this is done and your Pothos is neatly trimmed and attractive, it’s a good idea to quickly inspect your plant for signs of bugs. Pruning is a great opportunity to carefully inspect the foliage for bugs or other problems.
If you do find any, try treating your plant with one of these natural options to eradicate them.
Is There Any Way To Make A Pothos Fuller?
As I mentioned, pothos usually grows quickly so they don’t usually need a lot of help. But, if you want to make them look nice and full, there are a few things you can do. The most important one is to prune the plant properly because it stimulates growth and keeps the plant healthy.
Maintaining good care, including ensuring adequate light, water and fertilizer can also ensure a full and healthy plant. I generally recommend against fertilizing Pothos plants immediately after pruning. Sometimes fertilizing can stress the plant, particularly if applied in excess, and in addition to the stress of pruning, can lead to more harm than good.
Give the plant more sunlight. This is usually enough to stimulate a pothos to grow greener and fuller. Make sure they’re adequately watered and maintain a temperature of 65-85°F or 19-29°C.
Can I Propagate The Pothos Cuttings?
Pruning is the ideal time to create Pothos cuttings for propagation. Pothos can be easily propagated in soil or water. Just cut a section of stem 4-6 inches long, with several leaves on it. Ensure the bottom two inches of stem have no leaves and place this end in clean water or in a prepared pot with suitable potting soil.
Within a few weeks, your Pothos cuttings will have developed roots and may be growing some new leaves. Without too much difficulty, you can create a never ending supply of Pothos for your home or to give away to friends.
Why Are Pothos Houseplants So Popular?
There are a lot of reasons why these plants are such a common houseplant. First of all, Pothos plants are pretty wallet-friendly. In fact, a six-inch potted Pothos only costs about $10 to $15. That’s not all, it lasts a really long time with proper care which makes it one of the best bargains around when it comes to houseplants.
Compared to other houseplants, these are really easy to take care of. Pothos houseplants don’t need a lot of water or light to thrive indoors. That said, it’s still important to monitor them carefully to make sure they’re healthy. Be on the lookout for small leaves, lack of growth, or little to no variegation in leaf color. These are signs of not enough light and water.
Too much light and water aren’t good, either. Prolonged exposure to light leads to burnt leaves and over-watering can cause root rot. When it comes to watering these plants, experts agree that it’s best to keep the soil on the drier side so it’s best to wait until the top half of the soil is dry before watering again.
How long this takes depends on the temperature, pot size, and light exposure and can take anywhere from four to seven days. You should also keep your Pothos away from any heating and cooling ducts, though these plants are tough enough to survive and thrive in a wide range of temperatures.
Is A Pothos A Good Plant For Beginners?
Yes! This is a gorgeous plant that’s easy to prune and doesn’t require a lot of maintenance. Just make sure it has enough water and sunlight and this plant should thrive. It’s also a good choice if you want to learn about propagating plants. The skills you learn caring for a pothos will come in handy down the line as you pick up plants that require a little more care.