How do I mix msm turf control for lawns in a 2 gal sprayer?

MSM Turf Herbicide

60% Metsulfuron Methyl
Controls Bahiagrass and Grassy,Broadleaf Weeds

2 oz. bottle containing 60% Metsulfuron Methyl (Same Active Ingredient as Clean Pasture, Manor)

Farmers in our area use Cimarron Plus, Ally, Manor and Clean Pasture for their pastures all of which contain this chemical. Some homeowners were trying to use the same products for their lawns by guessing how to dilute it even though they were not labeled for lawn use.

Good news! MSM Turf Herbicide is now labeled for lawn use with exact instructions. It is a high quality university tested formulation specifically targeted to broadleaf and grassy weed control on ornamental turf, such as lawns, parks, cemeteries, golf courses (fairways, aprons, tees and roughs) and sod farms. It is the best bahia grass killer.

MSM is absorbed through the surface and roots and stops the weed growth.

For Lawns:

Use 1/10th of a teaspoon per gallon of water for homeowner lawns. There is a handy measuring cup specifically for this type of product to break it down as small as you need for your purposes.

Effective for the Control of:

  • Bahiagrass in St. Augustine & Bermuda
  • Annual and perennial broadleaf weeds
  • Clover
  • Dollarweed
  • Foxtail

Looking for total nutgrass control? This product kills the top part of the plant but not the tubers. I think Sedgehammer would work better to kill your nutgrass. for more details.

Important Tip:

Bahiagrass is a very hard-to-kill grass and when using MSM Turf Herbicide, you will need to add a surfactant (a product that makes it stick longer) with it. We recommend Hi-Yield Spreader Sticker (a non-ionic surfactant). You’ll need 2-4 tablespoons per gallon of water.

Learn More about MSM…
Not intended for use on flower seeds, lawns, vegetable gardens, water gardens or other food-producing or edible plants



Common lespedeza has a leaf and a pinkish-purple flower.
Photo courtesy of: Rebekah D. Wallace, University of Georgia,

Common lespedeza, also known as Japanese clover, (Kummerowia striata, syn. Lespedeza striata) is a very common summer weed that can easily choke out thin turf. It is often found in open woods and fields and frequently in disturbed areas and turf.

Lespedeza is a mat-forming, wiry stemmed, prostrate, freely branched summer annual. It has dark green trifoliate (arranged in threes) leaves with three oblong, smooth leaflets. Leaflets have parallel veins nearly at right angles to a prominent mid-vein. Its leaves have smooth edges and a short spur at the tip of each leaflet. Lespedeza has a semi-woody taproot and grows close to the ground, making it difficult to cut with a mower. It flowers in late summer with pink to purple, single flowers found in leaf axils on most of the nodes of the main stems.

Cultural Control

Common lespedeza grows well in thin turf and dry, compacted areas. To discourage lespedeza’s growth, it is recommended to increase the mowing height and to keep the soil’s pH and fertility at correct levels for the turf grass species. For more information on growing healthy turfgrass, see HGIC 1201, Fertilizing Lawns; HGIC 1205, Mowing Lawns; and HGIC 1207, Watering Lawns.

Common lespedeza has a prostrate growth habit.
Photo courtesy of: Ted Bodner, Southern Weed Science Society,

Hand pulling is an option, especially in landscape beds where herbicides pose a possible threat to desirable plants.

Chemical Control

In Lawns: Cultural controls should first be implemented before applying herbicides for lespedeza control. However, if after taking steps to modify lawn care techniques, chemical control may still be necessary to further reduce the lespedeza population. Herbicides should be carefully chosen according to turf species and all label instructions followed.

A three-way herbicide can be used on bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass and tall fescue. The active ingredients of a three-way herbicide often include the following broadleaf weed killers: 2,4-D, dicamba, and mecoprop (MCPP). Examples of three-way herbicides are:

  • Ferti-lome Weed-Out Lawn Weed Killer with Trimec® Concentrate
  • Southern Ag Lawn Weed Killer with Trimec® Concentrate
  • Bayer Advanced Southern Weed Killer for Lawns Concentrate; or RTS (Ready to spray)
  • Bonide Weed Beater Lawn Weed Killer Concentrate
  • Spectracide Weed Stop Weed Killer for Lawns Concentrate; or RTS (Ready to spray)
  • Ortho Weed B Gon Weed Killer for Lawn Concentrate; or RTS (Ready to Spray)

Note: Herbicides containing 2,4-D should be applied at a reduced rate on St. Augustinegrass and centipedegrass to prevent damage to these lawns. Read the product label for the number of fluid ounces of the 3-way herbicide to add per gallon of water in a pump-up sprayer. If a second application is needed, apply the herbicide in spot treatments about 10 days later.

In addition to three-way herbicides there are several other herbicides that can be used for lespedeza control in home lawns. Atrazine may be used to control lespedeza in centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass. Atrazine is a post-emergence broadleaf weed killer that also controls several common grassy weeds and has some pre-emergence activity. Examples of products containing atrazine are:

  • Southern Ag Atrazine St. Augustine Weed Killer
  • Hi Yield Atrazine Weed Killer
  • Image Herbicide for St Augustine & Centipede with Atrazine
  • Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawns Concentrate for St. Augustine & Centipede Lawns (a Ready-to-Spray, hose-end bottle).

Note: Read and follow all label instructions when using herbicides. Repeat herbicide applications 10 to 14 days apart may be required for acceptable control. Do not mow within 48 hours after application of most herbicides. Most post-emergence herbicides need to dry on the leaf surface before irrigation or rainfall occurs. See Table 1 for turfgrass tolerance to herbicides.

CAUTION: Most herbicides should not be applied during spring transition (green-up period of a warm-season turfgrass lawn) or when air temperatures exceed 90 ºF as this can cause severe damage to the turfgrass. A newly seeded lawn should be mowed a minimum of three times before applying an herbicide. Rainfall or irrigation a day or two prior to herbicide application reduces the chance of turfgrass injury and enhances weed uptake of the herbicide.

A more recent herbicide combination of thiencarbazone, iodosulfuron, and dicamba, as found in Celsius WG Herbicide, is selective to control many broadleaf weeds and several grass weeds in all four of the common warm-season grasses. It cannot be used in fescue lawns, but can be used to remove fescue from warm-season lawns. Apply when annual lespedeza is actively growing and again 2 to 4 weeks later. The addition of a non-ionic surfactant, such as Southern Ag Surfactant for Herbicides or Hi-Yield Spreader Sticker Non-Ionic Surfactant, will increase control. Celsius WG herbicide is safe to apply during spring green-up of warm season grasses.

Metsulfuron, such as in Quali-Pro MSM Turf Herbicide, gives very good control of lespedeza in bermuda, centipede, St Augustine, and zoysia lawns. Quali-Pro Fahrenheit Herbicide also contains dicamba along with metsulfuron. For these two professional products, a non-ionic surfactant, such as Southern Ag Surfactant for Herbicides or Hi-Yield Spreader Sticker Non-Ionic Surfactant, is required at 2 teaspoons per gallon of spray mix for best control. A non-ionic surfactant will help the herbicide adhere to the leaves for increased penetration.

Do not apply metsulfuron to a lawn if over-seeded with annual ryegrass or over-seed for 8 weeks after application. Do not plant woody ornamentals in treated areas for one year after application of metsulfuron. Do not apply metsulfuron herbicides within two times the width of the drip line of desirable hardwood trees. Do not apply metsulfuron products to lawn under drought stress or when high temperatures are above 85 °F

Table 1. Turf Tolerance to Herbicides for Lespedeza Control.

Herbicide Bermuda Centipede St. Augustine Tall Fescue Zoysia
atrazine D S S NR NR
(3- way) 2,4-D +
MCPP + dicamba
metsulfuron S S S-I NR S
iodosulfuron, &
S = Safe at labeled rates
I = Intermediate safety, use at reduced rates
NR = Not registered for use on and/or damages this turfgrass.
D = Fully dormant turf only
Note: Do not apply post-emergence herbicides, except Celsius WG Herbicide, to lawns during the spring green up of turfgrass.
1 This mix of active ingredients requires the addition of 2 teaspoons of a non-ionic surfactant (that is, a wetter-sticker agent to aid in weed control at 0.25% by volume) per gallon of water, such as Hi-Yield Spreader Sticker.
2 Spot treatments to St. Augustinegrass at temperatures above 90 degrees may cause temporary growth regulation.

In Landscapes: If lespedeza is a problem in landscape beds, glyphosate can be used for spot treatments around ornamental plants. Examples of concentrated glyphosate products are:

  • Roundup Original Concentrate,
  • Roundup Pro Herbicide,
  • Martin’s Eraser Systemic Weed & Grass Killer,
  • Quick Kill Grass & Weed Killer,
  • Bonide Kleenup Weed & Grass Killer 41% Super Concentrate,
  • Hi-Yield Super Concentrate,
  • Maxide Super Concentrate 41% Weed & Grass Killer,
  • Super Concentrate Killzall Weed & Grass Killer,
  • Tiger Brand Quick Kill Concentrate,
  • Ultra Kill Weed & Grass Killer Concentrate,
  • Gordon’s Groundwork Concentrate 50% Super Weed & Grass Killer,
  • Zep Enforcer Weed Defeat III,
  • Eliminator Weed & Grass Killer Super Concentrate,
  • Monterey Remuda Full Strength 41% Glyphosate,
  • Knock Out Weed & Grass Killer Super Concentrate,
  • Southern States Grass & Weed Killer Concentrate II,
  • Total Kill Pro Weed & Grass Killer Herbicide,
  • Ace Concentrate Weed & Grass Killer.

Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide that should be used with caution. Do not allow glyphosate spray mist to contact ornamental foliage or stems as severe injury will occur. A cardboard shield may be used to prevent glyphosate spray from drifting to nearby ornamentals.

Bahiagrass Control – How To Eradicate Bahiagrass In Your Lawn

Bahiagrass is most commonly grown as forage but it is sometimes used as erosion control on roadsides and disturbed soils. Bahiagrass has excellent drought tolerance and can be grown on a variety of soils. The grass seeds prolifically and spreads into turf areas.

Unfortunately, it has a rough, unattractive appearance that can invade green lawns. Control of bahiagrass is important in lawns to minimize competition. Bahiagrass control is achieved with a two-prong method of cultural and chemical means.

Recognizing Bahia Grass

The Y-shaped seed heads it produces easily identify bahiagrass. Unfortunately, the species is at its most invasive by the time you see the seeds.

Control of bahiagrass rests on identification of the plant. The grass is mat-forming and spreads by rhizomes. It is a light green color, coarse and spreads in tufts or clumps. Efforts to eradicate bahiagrass in sod is foiled by its consistent use in warm-season climates.

A useful bahiagrass preventer would be the suspension of its use in open settings.

Bahia Grass Control

A natural bahiagrass preventer is with cultural methods. Bahiagrass does not tolerate shade and high nitrogen soils. When the grass is found in garden beds, it may be hand-pulled but you need to be careful to get all the rhizomes.

Organic mulch over 6 to 8 layers of wet newspaper is also useful to smother the plants. Consistent lawn mowing prevents the formation of seed heads and the further spread of the plant. Annual fertilization and proper watering techniques will keep sod healthy and help eradicate bahiagrass.

There are numerous chemicals that can kill bahiagrass. The perennial grass is controlled with pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides. In a vegetable garden, it is best to use a pre-emergent chemical and wait to plant. Bahiagrass control in garden beds is achieved with spot spraying of a chemical like Glyphosate. Any product with Atrazine is effective in lawns as a pre-emergent treatment. You can kill bahiagrass with Imazaquin in any setting except where food items are grown. Follow up spraying may be required with any chemical.

Bahiagrass is a perennial grass and manual removal is difficult because of the rhizomes. The best way to kill bahiagrass in most lawns is by applying a product with MSMA. If it is applied 3 times in 7- to 10-day intervals, the bahiagrass will die. Any application of chemical treatments should be consistent with the product’s instructions. The best time to apply post-emergent products on lawns is when the selected species has just begun to green up after winter.

Control of bahiagrass requires vigilance and repeated applications of treatments. Be sure to read the packaging to make sure the product will not adversely affect your turfgrass species.

Q: I have bahiagrass, which I hate, in my yard. Do you have any long term solutions/suggestions for getting rid of it?

A: Bahiagrass is sometimes used as a turfgrass or forage but it is usually viewed as a weed in the Atlanta area. You can identify the grass by its two ascending seedheads, which make a distinct “V” shape.

This grassy weed has reddish-purple stems that creep along the ground and root wherever they are able. When it has rooted, it sends up tall leaves and seed stems. Wind and water scatter the seeds throughout your lawn. Since bahiagrass grows like most lawn grasses, it is difficult to kill it without hurting the turf you want to preserve. It is a perennial, arising from the crown each spring.

Painting onto the plant with a foam paintbrush is one option.

Controlling bahiagrass with selective weed killers is difficult. See Controlling Bahiagrass in Lawns for ideas.

does a great job but is expensive.

Be sure to apply a grassy weed each spring in March to keep seeds from germinating.

V-shaped seedhead of bahiagrass

Tags For This Article: centipede, crabgrass, Fescue, herbicides, pre-emergent, seeding, Spring

How To Get Rid Of Bahia Grass

Bahia grass, also called highway grass, is often used for turf grass or forage and can easily infiltrate your lawn garden or landscape plot as an undesirable weed.

Bahia grass is easily identifiable by its characteristic: y-shaped seed head and present only in warmer climates. Although it will take time and persistence to remove Bahia grass, you can get rid of this pesky plant with the help of herbicides and regular lawn and garden maintenance.

Removing Bahia Grass From Lawns

Apply of post emergent herbicide in May. The first application of herbicide should take place when the Bahia grass is small and just beginning to grow.

Step 1: Spraying

Choose a post emergent herbicide to kill the actively growing grass. Spray the herbicide on your lawn is per the package directions. Post emergent herbicides are available at your local lawn and garden shop.

  • Use metal front to kill the Bahia grass without harming a Bermuda grass lawn.
  • Use med sulfur on set exceeding or atrazine to kill the Bahia grass without harming a centipede grass lawn.
  • Use atrazine to kill the Bahia grass without harming a st. Augustine grass lawn.
  • Use a maza cleaner med sulfur on to kill the Bahia grass without harming a zoysia grass lawn.

Fill in bare spots with the desired turf. As the herbicide kills Bahia grass, bare patches will be left on your lawn to ensure that these areas aren’t infiltrated with other weeds, promptly fill them in. Use plugs or sprigs of sod rather than spreading seeds for best result.

Step 2: Reapplying

Reapply the herbicide after four to six weeks to ensure that all the seeds rhizomes and plants are eradicated. You’ll need to apply the same herbicide again. Wait at least four to six weeks after the first treatment then apply the herbicide to your entire lawn again as directed by the package instructions. The herbicide should not harm your existing grass or the new sod patches.

Step 3: Mowing

Mow the lawn frequently it’s important to mow the lawn frequently to keep it healthy and prevent a re-emergence of Bahia grass. Don’t cut more than one-third of the grass height at a time or the roots may stop growing. For instance, if you want to keep your grass at a height of two inches five point one centimeters, cut it when it reaches three inches 7.6 centimeters tall six.

Step 4: Watering

Water the lawn only when it shows signs of water deficiency. Watering too often can cause Bahia grass and other weeds to flourish.


Fertilize the lawn once or twice per year. Regular lawn fertilization will not only get rid of Bahia grass but also prevent it from growing back. The numbers of the fertilizer referred to how much nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium respectively it contains.


Tattnall County Extension

Many people have problems with bahiagrass in their centipede lawns. Bahiagrass is the grass that shoot up the long stems that have a V shaped seedhead. Seeing bahiagrass in a centipede lawn is an eyesore to many people.

There are several good options for control of bahiagrass in centipede lawns. One option is to apply a chemical with the active ingredient: metsulfuron methyl. There are numerous products that contain metsulfuron methyl. Two products that can be used that contain metsulfuron methyl are Manor and Blade. These would need to be applied at a rate of .25-.5 ounces per acre in order to kill bahiagrass. 1/3 ounce per acre would be a good rate to go with. Sprayers will need to be properly calibrated for this application. You will also need to add some nonionic surfactant at a rate of .25% or 32oz/100gal. Metsulfuron will also control other summer weeds including lespedeza.

Another option for controlling bahiagrass in home lawns is to use a chemical with the active ingredient called sethoxydim. The trade name of one product that contains sethoxydim is Segment. This product will also kill crabgrass in centipede along with other grass-weeds. Make sure to use the rate listed on the label for this product.

Bahiagrass seedhead

How to Get Rid of Bahia Grass

Bahia grass is a fast growing grass type that requires a lot of maintenance and upkeep. It is resistant to most adverse conditions, including disease and drought. Many individuals who choose a different type of grass for their lawn often want to purge this pest from their landscape. This process can prove to be difficult though, as Bahia grass is quite resilient. If you are ready to get rid of Bahia grass there are several options available.

Minimizing the Appearance

Mow your yard frequently with a lawn mower that has a bag attachment. This will minimize the appearance of the Bahia grass in the lawn while preventing the spread of the grass seed.

Empty the lawn mower bag directly into a garbage can and not somewhere else in the yard. Emptying the debris bag into the yard would further spread the undesired grass weed around the lawn.

Apply a growth regulator to the entire lawn or just the patches of Bahia grass. This will minimize the appearance of the Bahia grass by slowing its growth in warm weather.

Killing the Bahia Grass

Dig up the patches of Bahia grass with a shovel. This can be done for both large and small patches, but is not ideal when Bahia is the primary grass in your lawn.

Spray a weed killing chemical evenly across the affected area of the yard. If the entire lawn is covered in Bahia grass, spread the weed killer evenly with a pump sprayer to make the job easier.

Replace the Bahia grass with new grass seed of your choice once the weed killer has run its course. This will allow new grass to grow and will push out any remnants of Bahia grass that may remain.


Wash your lawn mower after mowing any areas outside of your main lawn that contain Bahia grass. Also clean your mower after cutting an area of your yard that has Bahia grass and before mowing areas that are unaffected.

Watch the potting soil or topsoil that you bring in from outside sources. This is one of the easiest ways to infect your lawn with Bahia grass. If you notice this type of grass coming up in the potting soil then dispose of it and purchase a new stock.

Keep your lawn disease free and well maintained to avoid new weeds and Bahia grass from invading the area. A healthy lawn with full grass will choke out any potential invaders.

Wait on the Right Weather to Plant Bahiagrass

Producers in the southeast need to wait on appropriate weather conditions before planting bahiagrass.
By: Mark Mauldin, University of Florida Extension

If you are thinking about planting a bahiagrass pasture in the next few weeks you may want to “hold your horses” as they say. Just because it’s warming up and the home improvement stores are running commercials featuring picturesque lawns, doesn’t mean it’s time to plant bahiagrass. Planting bahiagrass pastures now could result in a very poor stand. Bahiagrass is very well suited to Northwest Florida and is one of the easier perennial forages to establish and maintain. However, to be successful, producers must work with the weather and not against it, when deciding when to plant.

Plantings that occur in the next few weeks will result in young seedlings during the month of May. May,is normally one of the one of the driest months of the year. This lack of moisture can be catastrophic for young seedlings. It takes the new plants time to develop a root system substantial enough to let them access water which has percolated into the soil. Their young roots are only able to access the water that is in the top few inches of the soil. Shallow roots demand frequent rains. In Florida our most predictable frequent rains occur during the summer. The pattern of frequent afternoon rains that has generally developed by June is quite favorable for the development of young seedlings. If you are fortunate enough to have irrigation and are willing to use it to establish pasture, you can plant bahiagrass from mid-March through mid-August.

Drier months like May can be very hard on young seedlings.
While it may not be a good time to plant bahiagrass, now is the time to start making preparations. Soil samples should be submitted using the Nutrient Testing for Bahia Pastures form, crop code 35. Lime should be applied as soon as possible following the recommendations that accompany the soil test results. Other recommended fertilizers should be applied after seedling emergence. Fertilizing prior to seedling emergence only serves to promote competition from weeds.

Now is also the time to begin preparing the seed bed. A well tilled, rolled, weed free seedbed will improve stand quality. Weed control prior to planting is important since seedlings under six inches tall are not tolerant of herbicides. As with most seeds, correct seed depth and adequate soil contact are crucial factors to consider when planting bahiagrass. Bahiagrass seeds should be planted between ¼ and ½ inch deep, no deeper. This publication, Bahiagrass: Overview and Management, contains a more complete explanation of establishment practices. Deciding on variety and sourcing seed should also be done well in advance of planting.

One final consideration; if you are in a situation where you are replanting bahiagrass due to the failure of a previous stand, it is important to consider why the failure occurred. Much of the appeal of bahiagrass is it hardiness and how widely adapted it is. If you have experienced stand failure it is important to determine why so that you can prevent it from happening again. Bahiagrass is a perennial species and can persist indefinitely if properly managed. Poor soil fertility and overgrazing are the two largest causes of stand failure. Both can be avoided through improved management. Contact your county’s agriculture agent for help determining why your previous stand failed or to answer any further questions you may have.

The Management and Use of Bahiagrass

R. Curt Lacy, Agriculture & Applied Economics Dept.
R. Lawton Stewart, Extension Beef Nutritionist, Animal & Dairy Science Dept.
R. Scott Tubbs, Cropping Systems Agronomist, Crop & Soil Sciences Dept.
Jeremy Kichler, County Extension Coordinator, Macon County
T. Wade Green, County Extension Coordinator, Twiggs County
Ray Hicks, County Extension Coordinator, Screven County

  • Introduction
  • Weed Control during Establishment
  • Using Bahiagrass in Sod-based Rotations with Agronomic Crops
  • Pest Management
  • Diseases
  • Summary
  • Acknowledgements


Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum L.)

Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum Flugge) is a long-lived, perennial warm season grass that is grown extensively in the southeastern United States (Figure 1). It is most commonly used as a pasture species, but can be used for hay production, erosion control, and wildlife habitat. Bahiagrass can also be used in “sod-based rotation” sequences that have been found to suppress pest problems (nematode and disease issues) in crops such as peanuts.

Bahiagrass is a deep-rooted, sod-forming species that is well adapted to a wide range of soils and conditions in this region. It spreads by short, stout stolons and is a prolific seed producing plant. Bahiagrass will grow on soils too poorly drained for bermudagrass, is more shade tolerant than bermudagrass, and can be used in woodland pastures (silvopasture).

Bahiagrass has many desirable characteristics such as: (1) tolerance to close grazing, (2) general freedom from severe disease and insect infestations, (3) good drought tolerance, (4) adequate forage quality, and (5) a low to moderate fertility requirement for the maintenance of good stands. Though it persists in pastures with a low level of management, it responds well to proper fertility and management.

Bahiagrass is particularly well suited for use in pastures (Table 1). It produces forage earlier in the spring and later in the fall than bermudagrass since it is less affected by decreasing day lengths and cool temperatures. Unfortunately, bahiagrass forage is less digestible than ‘Coastal’ bermudagrass of the same age (maturity). The use of good grazing management to keep the bahiagrass between 2 and 6 inches will keep the quality relatively high (54 to 56 percent TDN and 10 to 11 percent CP) and allow for better utilization.

Figure 1. Bahiagrass is well-adapted in the dark green area and can be successfully grown in the light green area.

Table 1. Typical fertilizer and lime recommendations, and the approximate forage quality, carrying capacity, and stocker gains that can be expected when recommended varieties of bahiagrass, bermudagrass, and tall fescue are used as the primary pasture species.
Fertilizer Recommendations1 Annual Lime Needed Typical Forage Quality2 Range in
Daily Gains –
Stocker Cattle
N P2O5 K2O
— (lbs/acre) — (tons/acre) — (RFQ)— (AU3/acre/yr) (lbs/head/day)
Bahiagrass 75-175 40 40 0.3-0.5 85-90 75-110 0.75-1.25 0.7-1.0
Bermudagrass 150-250 30 65 0.3-0.5 90-100 80-140 1.00-1.50 1.5-1.8
Tall Fescue4 50-100 40 40 0.3-0.5 100-120 80-150 0.50-1.00 1.8-2.5
1 Assumes medium levels of phosphorus and potassium in the soil test.
2 The forage quality values here are estimated based on NDF and digestibility estimates in the published literature. (RFQ = Relative Forage Quality)
3 AU = Animal Unit. One animal unit is equivalent to 1,000 lbs.
4 Tall fescue is not recommended for pastures in the Coastal Plain. Approximations for animal performance for tall fescue in this table assume the use of a recommended novel-endophyte infected variety.

Origin and Types

Bahiagrass is native to South America and is widely distributed in Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay. Several types of bahiagrass have been introduced into the United States since 1913 and differ in cold tolerance, growth characteristics, and forage production.

Common bahiagrass was first introduced into Florida in 1913. It has short, broad leaves and stout stolons. Common is relatively slow to establish and less productive and cold hardy than the later introductions. Common may be found growing in old pastures in some areas, but is no longer planted.

Pensacola bahiagrass was introduced into the United States from South America in the late 1930s (probably in ballast discarded from ships visiting the port at Pensacola, Florida). E. H. Finlayson, a county Extension agent, found this cultivar growing in streets and vacant lots near Pensacola’s docks. It is now the most widely grown variety in the United States. Compared to common and other varieties, it has longer and narrower leaves, taller seed stalks, and produces seed earlier. It is more winter hardy than the common and Argentine varieties. Growth begins early in spring and continues until mid-summer when the seedheads mature. Late summer growth is slow and low quality. Pensacola is fairly resistant to ergot, a smut disease affecting the seedheads of some grasses and causing health problems in cattle. Use Pensacola on less fertile soils and in pastures that will not be well managed. Once Pensacola is established, it can be maintained more easily than most pasture grasses.

Argentine was introduced from Argentina in 1944. It has wider and darker green leaves than Pensacola (Figure 2). It is also less cold tolerant and a poorer seed producer than Pensacola. Argentine starts growth later in spring but produces more forage in late summer and early fall than Pensacola. Argentine may also be better adapted to poorly-drained soils than some other introductions. It is less frost tolerant than Pensacola and is very susceptible to ergot.

Paraguay 22 is so named because it is believed to have been introduced from Paraguay. It is a short, coarse, narrow-leaved variety and is less productive than Pensacola. It has been used as a general-purpose turfgrass but seed are no longer available. It is similar to Argentine in growth habit but slightly more upright and more productive than Paraguay. It is not as cold tolerant as Pensacola.

Tifton-9 was a selection from Pensacola that was released in 1987 by the Georgia Coastal Plain Experiment Station. Compared to Pensacola, it is less tolerant of close grazing. However, Tifton-9 has much greater seedling vigor, a more upright growth habit and generally produces up to 25 percent more forage with digestibility equal to Pensacola. Tifton-9 does not develop a dense sod like the other bahiagrasses and can be established with 8 to 10 pounds of seed per acre if drilled. A higher seeding rate may result in quicker stand development.

AU Sand Mountain was developed and released by Auburn University. It was originally selected from a patch of Pensacola that had been planted in the early 1960s on what later became the Sand Mountain Research and Extension Center in northeast Alabama. This variety is more winter hardy than any other bahiagrass variety evaluated in Georgia. It performed and persisted well in yield trials at the Northwest Georgia Research and Education Center near Calhoun. When planted farther south, AU Sand Mountain has forage production between Pensacola and Argentine.

Figure 2. Pensacola bahiagrass (L) has much narrower leaf blades than Argentine (R).

TifQuik, a variant of Tifton-9, is a newly released variety that has proven to have superior seedling vigor and quicker stand formation. The yield potential and other characteristics of TifQuik are essentially the same as Tifton-9.

UF-Riata was developed and released by the University of Florida. It is more cold tolerant in Florida and tends to grow later in the fall and earlier in spring. In central and south Florida, UF-Riata stays green much of the year and may provide slightly better disease resistance than other varieties. It has matched the yield of Tifton-9 and TifQuik in trials at Tifton and has been observed to stay green a few days longer than the other varieties in the trial. However, UF-Riata has not yet been well studied in more northern locations in Georgia.

Other varieties that have been used or previously studied but are currently of minor importance include Tifhi-1, Tifhi-2, Paraguay 22, Riba, and Wilmington.

Information about currently recommended varieties of bahiagrass may be found on the “Forage Species and Varieties Recommended for Use in Georgia” web page.

Establishment Recommendations Timing

The best time to plant bahiagrass is in the early spring on upland soils or in late spring on low, moist soils. Plantings made later in the summer can be successful but weed competition (primarily aggressive summer annual grasses, such as crabgrass, goosegrass, and crowsfootgrass) can be a problem. Dry weather can also slow bahiagrass establishment. Bahiagrass can be successfully seeded in early fall in south Georgia.

Seed Size and Dormancy

Bahiagrass seed are small and should be planted shallowly, no more than 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep. This will allow for quicker emergence and promote seedling vigor.

Bahiagrass seed have variable germination rates. Some seeds germinate quickly after planting while others may not germinate until the following year. Generally, 50 to 60 percent of the seed will germinate within 30 days. TifQuik is the exception, as most of its seed will germinate readily within one to two weeks after planting if soil conditions are favorable.

Variable germination is the result of a waxy seed coat that limits potential uptake of water. The seed coat has a germination flap through which the seed absorbs moisture for germination. The opening of this germination flap depends on soil temperature, seed production conditions, seed storage conditions, and other factors. In many cases, seed stored for a year have a higher germination percentage than when the seed are first harvested. Seed scarification improves germination for common bahiagrass, but it is usually not necessary for the other bahiagrass varieties.

Seed dormancy is often much lower in some varieties than in others. As a result, seeding rates are higher for some varieties than others (see “Seeding Rates” section).

Planting Methods

Bahiagrass may be planted in several ways. No-till planting methods should be employed if there is a risk of soil erosion (e.g., sloping land). Many local conservation districts or similar organizations may have a no-till drill that can be rented or borrowed. No-till establishment methods can result in an acceptable stand of bahiagrass, but often require high seeding rates (see “Seeding Rates” section) and control of existing vegetation. It is critical that the existing stand/crop and any weeds are destroyed. Sometimes this requires two applications of a non-selective herbicide (four to six weeks apart).

If the risk of soil erosion is minimal, conventionally-tilled seedbed preparation can be used to establish bahiagrass. When conventional seedbed preparation and establishment techniques are employed, it is recommended that the “stale-seedbed” method be used. In this method, the first step is to destroy the existing vegetation by spraying with a non-selective herbicide. Next, recommended levels of lime and/or nutrients (based on soil test results) should be added so that they can be incorporated into the soil during the tillage phase. The land can then be tilled, disced, and packed. This also allows for any leveling or smoothing of the soil surface that may be necessary. The tillage and packing steps should be completed at least one month prior to planting so that the soil can settle/firm before planting. Properly packing and firming of the soil is necessary to prevent the seed from being planted too deeply. As a rule of thumb, footprints left in prepared soil that are approximately 1/4-inch deep indicate a firm seedbed. In addition to allowing the soil to become firm, this will allow many of the weeds in the disturbed soil to germinate and emerge. These weeds can then be destroyed using a non-selective herbicide within a few days of planting.1

Once the seedbed is prepared, seeds may be drilled into the soil or broadcast on top of the soil. When broadcasted, the seed must be covered with soil (no more than 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep) with either a light disking or a cultipacking. Seeding and cultipacking at the same time using a cultipacker-seeder (e.g., Brillion seeder) also works quite well. Seeds can be more precisely placed into the seedbed when drilled. However, the small seedbox attachment must be used to plant bahiagrass because the seed are too small to be accurately measured in the grain drill seed cups.

1Check the herbicide label for restrictions on how quickly bahiagrass can be planted after application.

Seeding Rates

Seeding rates vary with variety and planting method. When using Pensacola or a Pensacola-type variety, the seeding rate should be 12 to 15 pounds of seed per acre when the seed are drilled into a prepared seedbed. When broadcasting seed onto a prepared seedbed or using no-till methods, increase the seeding rate of Pensacola-type varieties to 18 to 20 pounds per acre.

Tifton-9 and TifQuik have much better seedling vigor than other Pensacola-type varieties and lower seeding rates can be used for these varieties. As a result, the seeding rate for Tifton-9 and TifQuik is 8 to 10 pounds per acre on prepared seedbeds and 12 to 15 pounds per acre when broadcasting or planting with a no-till drill.

Fertility at Establishment

Prior to planting, apply any needed lime, P, or K (according to soil test recommendations). Avoid applying N before or at planting, as this may increase annual grass emergence before bahiagrass. Apply 35 to 50 pounds of N per acre after the seedlings emerge and start to grow. With early planting dates, a second application of 50 to 75 pounds of N per acre in early- to mid-summer may be necessary to promote rapid coverage.

Weed Control during Establishment

Good weed control during the establishment phase is essential. Newly-established bahiagrass may be less competitive with annual grasses and broadleaf weeds. A thick cover of weeds slows stand establishment by shading the emerging bahiagrass seedlings. Weak stands due to poor seedling establishment can thicken over time. If plants are well distributed over the field, managing the stand to reduce weed competition will increase the opportunity for stand improvement.

Once the bahiagrass seedlings reach a height of 8 inches, broadleaf weeds can be controlled with 2,4-D. Care should be taken when using 2,4-D in new plantings since this herbicide does have some pre-emergence activity on grass seed germination and may adversely affect bahiagrass seeds that have not yet germinated.

Currently, there are no herbicides that selectively control annual grasses in newly established bahiagrass. Mowing is the only option when these grasses are a problem in a newly-established field. The mowing height should be adjusted such that little (if any) of the bahiagrass foliage is cut. Mowing once a month (or more frequently) may be necessary, depending on the level of grass competition. Once established, bahiagrass can suppress most weeds and mowing may or may not be necessary.

Carefully managed rotational grazing can accomplish a similar effect, but the animals must be managed to minimize grazing pressure put on the bahiagrass. Cattle should not be allowed to graze new plantings of bahiagrass in the spring months. Heavy trampling may result in destruction of the young plants.

See the Georgia Pest Management Handbook and check with your county Extension agent for additional information and current recommendations.

Fertility Management

Though it will persist in low-fertility soils, bahiagrass is responsive to good soil fertility. When it is used in a livestock operation, a good liming and fertility program is essential to the production of good forage yields and to economic returns.

Bahiagrass is very responsive to N fertility (Table 2). After establishment, annual applications of 100 to 200 pounds N per acre should be used for good forage production. For better distribution of forage growth, divide the N into two or more applications during the growing season. Higher rates of N per acre should only be used in very intensive grazing or hay production systems.

As in all good fertility programs, soil testing should be the basis for making amendment decisions. Apply lime, P, K, or any other needed soil amendments based on soil test recommendations. All of the P can be applied at any time during the year. Apply half of the K in the early spring and the other half in the summer to prevent luxury consumption of this nutrient by the plant.

Bahiagrass is less sensitive to soil pH than many crops. Applying lime to maintain the soil pH at 6.0 ensures that pH will not be a limiting factor for the bahiagrass, any crops that are overseeded into the bahiagrass, and any crop that may follow bahiagrass in the rotation.

Using Bahiagrass in Sod-based Rotations with Agronomic Crops

Improvements in nearly all facets of crop production have been reported when row crops are grown after bahiagrass compared to following other row crops (Figure 3). This includes the most important factors to producers—yield and crop quality. Yet, there are other proven improvements that result from such rotations. In terms of soil environment, which greatly contributes to the sustainability of agricultural systems, factors such as reduced erosion, build-up of soil organic matter, root growth and depth of penetration by the succeeding crop, water infiltration, earthworm population, and soil tilth all change for the better. From a row crop standpoint, the most important benefit is usually from reduced incidence of numerous pests. Research results have shown a reduction in early and late leaf spot (Cercospora arachidicola and Cercosporidium personatum, respectively) diseases in peanut, decreased southern blight/stem rot/white mold (Sclerotium rolfsii) in peanuts and cotton, and fewer thrips (Flankliniella fusca), leading to less tomato spotted wilt virus (Tospovirus) in peanuts and tobacco. In addition, it is reported that peanut and soybean root-knot nematode (Meloidogyne spp.), reniform nematode (Rotylenchulus reniformis), and soybean cyst nematode (Heterodera glycines Ichinohe) infestations may decline following bahiagrass since it is a non-host to these pests (McGlohon et al., 1961; Rodriguez-Kabana et al., 1988; Rodriguez-Kabana et al., 1989; Johnson et al., 2000; Katsvairo et al, 2006). Collectively, these factors can result in savings from reduced inputs such as a less frequent need for irrigation, elimination of one or more fungicide spray events, and potentially reduced applications of expensive specialty herbicides due to bahiagrass outcompeting weeds.

Figure 3. Peanuts that have been sod-seeded into a field that was formerly in bahiagrass.
(Photo Credit: Dr. David Wright, University of Florida)

In addition to the potential for improved yields and reduced inputs for the row crop enterprise, the inclusion of livestock can be a very successful capital venture that diversifies the farm operation and may serve as a profit center. This can buffer and insulate the farm operation from market fluctuations and, perhaps, catastrophic weather events. Even operations that do not wish to incorporate ownership of livestock could still benefit from similar systems (e.g., contract grazing, selling hay/seed of pasture grasses to nearby cattlemen, etc.). Though an economic analysis should be conducted to determine if a sod-based rotation using bahiagrass is economically feasible in a specific scenario, this may be a profitable rotation system for some farms in the Southeast.

If bahiagrass is to be used in the rotation, it is recommended that it stay in stand for two years, followed immediately by peanuts or soybeans, then by a subsequent cotton crop (Do not plant cotton immediately after bahiagrass, since there are reports of excessive and rank vegetative growth in cotton that followed bahiagrass).


Bahiagrass has many uses, but it is most commonly used as a pasture species or as a hay crop. Bahiagrass is also an excellent grass species for erosion control and wildlife habitat. Bahiagrass also been increasingly used in “sod-based rotation” sequences (see inset, “Using Bahiagrass in Sod-based Rotations with Agronomic Crops”).


Well-managed pastures can carry about one animal unit (e.g., a cow-calf pair) per acre from April to mid-October under typical growing conditions. The quality of grazing is highest during the early spring and begins to decline during mid-summer.

Improved varieties such as Tifton-9, TifQuik, and UF-Riata produce 10 to 15 percent more total forage and provide a slightly higher carrying capacity than Pensacola. However, bahiagrass varieties do not differ substantially in forage quality (Muchovej and Mullahey, 2000).

All bahiagrass varieties produce most of their forage close to the soil surface, regardless of fertilization (Table 3). In fact, approximately 60 percent of the total forage produced is within 2 inches of the soil surface. Thus, bahiagrass pastures should be grazed close for best forage production and animal performance.

Though overgrazing is undesirable, most bahiagrass varieties can withstand intense, close grazing pressure. Bahiagrass generally grows more prostrate under close grazing and becomes even more compact. Under extremely high grazing pressure, bahiagrass will produce almost all of its leaf area so close to the soil surface that the animals cannot defoliate it (i.e., below the level at which the animals can graze). As a result, bahiagrass is the most grazing-tolerant species used for forage production in Georgia.

By overseeding winter annual grasses and legumes into bahiagrass, the grazing season can be extended and the quality of the forage can be increased. Unfortunately, the compact and dense nature of bahiagrass sods is generally not as good for overseeding as bermudagrass sods. Overseeding with winter annuals such as rye, oats, annual ryegrass, crimson, and arrowleaf clovers can be successful if the soil fertility and weather provide a favorable environment for winter annual growth. However, it is necessary for the bahiagrass sod to be mowed or grazed as short as possible in early October and lightly disked prior to establishment. Winter annuals should not be overseeded until late fall, just prior to the first frost.

During the spring transition, when bahiagrass begins to regrow, winter forages should be removed either by grazing, haying, or mowing. This reduces the competition from winter forages for light, moisture, and soil nutrients when bahiagrass begins its spring growth.

Table 2. Average yield (over 2 years) of Pensacola bahiagrass at different nitrogen (N) levels and clipping frequencies.
Clipping Frequency N Rate (lbs N/A)
0 50 100 200
Forage Yield (lbs of dry matter/A)
1 960 1580 2020 3500
2 1220 1940 2560 4260
3 1340 2080 3080 5520
4 1320 2160 3120 5600
6 1400 2460 3580 6420
Avg. 1240 2040 2860 5060
Source: Beaty et al., 1963.
Table 3. Forage availability from Pensacola bahiagrass at various heights as affected by N rate.
Cutting Height N Application Rate (lbs N/A)
0 75 150 300
Percent of Forage at Cutting Height (%)
5+ 9.4 10.3 14.7 16.3

Status and Revision History
Published on Mar 15, 2010
Published with Full Review on Mar 01, 2013
Published with Full Review on Mar 28, 2017

Steps to follow in planting a Bahiagrass pasture
Check it out HERE

First: Decide if you will till the soil (kill the existing plants by plowing up your site!) or just plant within the existing grass. Also decide on the variety of Bahia to plant.

I will TILL my site and start Fresh!

I will NOT TILL my site – I want to overseed my existing lawn.


NOT TILLING: You are not tilling the soil – and are planting seeds within the existing grass & weeds;

Note: Bahiagrass does thin out over time, so overseeding helps to thicken the turf to achieve higher plant density.

(1) Mow the area low in spring or fall, remove the excess plant material – Then Sow (broadcast) your Bahiagrass seeds on the area to be planted generally in the spring for best results. However you may also seed in the fall at the same time you use a cover crop such as ryegrass. The Bahia seed will start germinating the following spring.

(2) Rake the area sowed with a hand rake so that scratch marks in the soil between plants allow some seeds to fall into these valleys and become covered by soil over time (from your rake action and later from rains). Bahiagrass seeds must have a thin soil covering to germinate (1/4 inch ideal) – They DO NOT germinate when thrown on top of the ground. Use the correct rate of seed for Bahiagrass lawns.

(3) Follow your normal water, fertilizing and mowing practices for the area you have planted on a regular basis. That’s all! Eventually – (After several months of growing season time has gone bye)- you should have an improved, more lush and thick Bahiagrass lawn. – Note: freshly seeded lawns require more frequent watering, usually once to twice daily.

How much Bahia seed do
I need to plant?
For Bahiagrass Lawns
Seeding Rate:
Plant 5 to 10 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.


Visit our for more about seeding rates and lawn choices for grasses. For pasture seeding the rate is different. Keep in mind that the seeding rate is purposely higher for lawns so that the higher plant density needed for lush lawns is achieved.

TILLING: Planting on correctly prepared and tilled soil.

(1) Till the area to be planted. This can be done with either a garden tiller or a tractor harrow/tiller (Or even a shovel if you have a good back!). Once the area is returned to soil, level the ground by raking or dragging something over the surface until it is smooth and level. Now is the time to remove hills and depressions so that you have a nice smooth lawn.

(2) Plant the seeds. You can use a commercial turfgrass planter or sow the seeds by hand, or just as easy and much preferred, buy a broadcast seeder (hand held models are available for $8-30) like the one above. Once your seeds are sowed, rake or drag the seeded area, so that as many of the seeds as possible are lightly covered (1/4 inch is ideal covering). Be sure and use the correct rate for seeding Bahia.

(3) Water the area you have planted as needed. Apply fertilizer in intervals through the growing season, and practice a regular mowing schedule. Mowing the weeds that will grow in your new lawn area faster than the grass, allows the grass to compete better for scarce nutrients and sunlight. – Mow regular and at the correct height. – Note: freshly seeded lawns require more frequent watering, usually once to twice daily.

How much Bahia seed do
I need to plant?
For Bahiagrass Lawns
Seeding Rate:
Plant 5 to 10 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.


Visit our for more about seeding rates and lawn choices for grasses. For pasture seeding the rate is different. Keep in mind that the seeding rate is purposely higher for lawns so that the higher plant density needed for lush lawns is achieved.

An good final finish to planting a Bahiagrass lawn is to roll your planted lawn area with a hand roller. You can rent these implements from rental stores in your area. This compacts the soil around the seed, creating a more favorable environment for Bahiagrass seed germination. The rolling also smoothes the soil providing for a more level lawn.


Your lawn will grow to be beautiful over time!
If you can’t wait….. consider SODDING

Quite regularly I get emails from individuals saying the following:
“I just planted my Bahiagrass two weeks ago and I don’t see any grass.”

— First of all, Bahiagrass takes 30 days to germinate under ideal situations (adequate warm-moist soil conditions). Some seeds germinate faster and some take months longer. It all depends on the soil and climate for the period after you plant. Bahiagrass loves hot wet weather. That is when it will germinate the fastest.

— Secondly, keep in mind that these plants are much like a child. When a child is conceived it generally takes 9 months to emerge. Same with Bahiagrass, except it only takes 4-6 weeks if conditions are right. Then it starts the long process of maturing into an adult Bahia plant (if conditions aren’t right it wont even start!). Once it has germinated and emerged, it is only a baby in the plant world. It will be a very tiny needle looking plant, hiding under and around all the other weeds & plants that may be present in the neighborhood.

How To Get Rid Of Bahia Grass In Warm Or Cool Seasons

What’s wrong with bahiagrass? Depends who you ask.

Bahiagrass is a coarse grass that was introduced into the U.S. in the 1930’s as a forage grass for cattle. It’s drought tolerant and does well in poor and even hard-packed soils, so some people use it as turf grass. It’s also used for roadside erosion control in some areas. So it has its uses.

But boy, is it ugly.

The stuff is coarse and weedy-looking, it has an open canopy and does not fill in well as turf, and it grows about two feet in a week so it’s a devil to keep mowed if you do choose—for whatever reason—to grow a bahiagrass lawn. Plus, it has a strange and unappealing Y-shaped seed head that stands out like a sore thumb in a lawn.

How To Get Rid Of Bahiagrass In Central Georgia

Around here, bahiagrass grows wild in pastures, vacant lots and forgotten areas, where it tends to take over. It goes to seed in about half the time as most other grasses, and spreads like the dickens. So you can imagine that bahiagrass control is a constant battle. Bahiagrass is super tough and hard to get rid of, but if you’re really determined and willing to be in it for the long haul, here is what we suggest.

What Kills Bahiagrass?

Once it’s established, getting rid of bahiagrass typically calls for a lot of chemical work. Which type of chemicals you can use on it depends on the season and on what type of lawn it’s growing in.

As weeds go, bahiagrass is a really tricky one. It tends to die back during the cool season, but it’s a perennial grass, so it comes back every year. When it gets cold it will die off but shoots right back up in spring.During the cool season you can spray with Roundup if the surrounding turf is completely dormant. If it’s not you’ll kill the turf as well.

In the warm season, if you have a Bermuda grass lawn, we kill bahiagrass with MSMA. We typically treat it with 2-3 sprayings. For zoysia or centipede grass or other types of turf we use a product called Mansion, which requires 3-4 sprayings.

Bahiagrass Prevention

Bahiagrass is very aggressive as well as widespread, so you may not be able to prevent it completely. But we highly recommend taking preventative measures as your first line of defense in bahiagrass control.

Typically, that means spraying regularly. We usually treat yards 7 times per year for most types of turfgrass. In early spring we put down a preemergent, which takes care of weed seeds left in the soil over winter.

Another thing to be careful of is to avoid introducing bahiagrass seeds into your lawn. Weed seeds can drift a long way, and you may not be able to keep them out entirely. But be careful who you let onto your lawn. Some people will mow a bahia field and then go mow your lawn. That is almost guaranteed to distribute bahiagrass seeds all over your lawn. That is one reason why at T.Lake, we clean every piece of equipment between properties.

What About Organic Bahiagrass Prevention Methods?

As much as we respect the organic approach, that’s a tough one. The first step is to pray really, really hard. Beyond that, you might try vinegar solutions. White vinegar, diluted ½ and ½ with water, may help put a dent in your bahiagrass, but you have to be vigilant and get right on it.

Beyond that, it’s really important to keep your lawn mowed frequently enough, whether you’re using organic methods or not. Bahia does have a life expectancy and will eventually die out if you keep knocking it down every week and don’t allow it to go to seed. Most homeowners don’t mow often enough. We recommend weekly mowing for bahiagrass prevention.

Bahiagrass Control In Central Georgia

Proper control of bahiagrass is beyond the scope of the typical homeowner—not just because of the constant vigilance it requires, but because the chemicals needed to control it require a professional applicator’s license. Most people we know, though, would rather not do it themselves anyway.

If you would like to get rid of bahiagrass the easy way, why not give us a call? You can reach us online, or call our Macon people at 478-750-7733, or our East Dublin office at 478-272-3878. We’ll be happy to take the job off your hands.

Doc. – posted 25 April 2004 19:43

Bahiagrass is getting a step into my lawn. I have tried Bonus S and a weed killer that will not harm St Aug but the darn thing wont die. I really do not want a Bahi/StAug yard but do not know what else to do? Any product that will kill this grass and not St Augustine?

doc. – posted 01 May 2004 00:23


cohiba – posted 01 May 2004 06:16

Doc, Sorry but I got nothing. I’ll do a little research from my other sources and get try to get back to you.

Good Luck…..

Doc. – posted 01 May 2004 08:33

I asked Lowes and the lady told me a liquid form of, “Atrzine” I hope I spelled that right. It is ok for St Aug and Centipede grass but will kill everything else. I tried it but that darn Bahiagrass is still growing.

cohiba – posted 01 May 2004 09:26

Are you absolutely sure it is Bahia Grass?

Doc. – posted 01 May 2004 14:48

yes, I searched online and found pictures of it and it matches the garbage in my yard. It is a small problem now and before it gets crazy I would like to knock it out.

cohiba – posted 01 May 2004 15:43

Doc, Standard Golf Makes a Product called a Weed Pro. Its a wand with a foam tip on the end. Go to and Go to products then click on Turf Products III The weed pro is there. I suggest you Put MSMA in it and spot treat your Bahia NOT the St Aug. We sometimes use this method with Acclaim on Bentgrass greens for Goosegrass. with little to no damage to the bent. Its the best I can do for now…..

Take Care and Good Luck…..

Doc. – posted 04 May 2004 17:47

Atrazine seems to work, if that is how it is spelled.

E.E. Green – posted 22 May 2004 14:35

Doc,Atrazine will work to control some weeds but don’t expect that it can be applied with impunity. I did just that and my 22K ft(2)St Augustine front yard looks like a UNF testing plot for every kind of weed from Alabama to Zanzibar. Atrazine will most definitely kill St A. And every other living herb it touches. In all fairness to its manufacturers, I didn’t follow label directions and am paying the price.

HOBIE14T – posted 31 May 2004 15:56

I use a product from Lesco called Riverdale Manor and it works great. It takes two applications from a hose end sprayer, six to eight weeks apart. It is a selective herbicide that provides control of Bahiagrass and other broadleaf weeds.

Alex_in_FL – posted 05 June 2004 14:35

Cohiba has the right idea. Here is the poor man’s approach. Get roundup or MSMA and a sod plugger or 3″ piece of PVC pipe. Put the plugger/pipe over the bahia and spray it with roundup or MSMA. This limits the damage and should kill the bahia.

Good luck!


nolan – posted 07 August 2007 18:01

Take out bahiagrass with treatments of the new Manor herbicide or arsenicals. Control sedges with Basagran, Image, Manage or repeat applications of arsenicals.


Q&A related to Bahiagrass

  • Does Pastora Herbicide kill bahiagrass?
  • Will Avenue South Broadleaf Herbicide injure bahiagrass?
  • Why does Vantage list Bahiagrass and not Fertilome Over the Top if both have the same active ingredient?
  • Will Tenacity Herbicide control bahiagrass?
  • Can I use Tenacity Herbicide on Bahiagrass?
  • Is Ferti-Lome Weed-Out Plus Lawn Fertilizer 25-0-4 good for bahiagrass in FL?
  • Is Fahrenheit Herbicide effective against bahia grass in Bermuda grass?
  • Can this product be used on Bahiagrass?
  • What to use when trying to eliminate Bahiagrass in my Centipede lawn?
  • Can Gallery 75 DF Specialty Herbicide be used on Bahiagrass?
  • Is SpeedZone Lawn Weed Killer Concentrate safe on Bahiagrass?
  • Can Dimension 2EW be used on Bahia grass?
  • Will SedgeHammer Herbicide kill Bahia in my St. Augustine turf?
  • Does MSM Turf Herbicide work when bahiagrass is dormant?
  • Is XL 2G Granules ok to use on a well established lawn?
  • Will Patriot kill mexia grass?
  • Is Martins Clear Pasture safe for to use in Bahiagrass?
  • What is the best herbicide for bahiagrass in SW Florida?
  • Is Dimension Ultra 40WP safe for use in an existing Bahia stand?
  • Can Celsius WG Herbicide be applied to Bahia?

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