Called the Hoya plant – climbing, clambering, creeping, or wax-stemmed plant with a thick wax leaf makes an excellent indoor houseplant like these as well.
Known as the “Hindu rope plant“, “wax plant” or “wax flower plant”, Hoya has been enjoyed for decades, perhaps because fanciers enjoy their easy going as a houseplant indoor dispositions.
Their wheel-like clusters of waxy or porcelain flowers with stars in their crowns, are sometimes deliciously fragrant although I think the the gardenia plant beats the Hoya for fragrance.
- History Of The Hoya Plant
- Hoya Flowers Exquisite Creations
- Hoya Leaves & Foliage – Striking & Variable
- How To Grow And Care For The Hoya Plant… It Does Not Require Pampering
- The How To’s Of Hoya Plant Propagation
- Hoya Pest and Problems
- Hoya Plant Care: Questions and Answers
- Commonly Grown Hoya “Species”
- Readers Share Their Wax Plant Growing Experiences
- How to Grow a Hoya Plant
- how do you propogate a Hindu Rope Plant??
- Plant Rescue: Hoya Carnosa Compacta ‘Hindu Rope’
- Hoya Carnosa Compacta Care:
- Plant Rescue Update:
History Of The Hoya Plant
The name “Hoya” honors Thomas Hoy (17 – 1821), gardener to the Duke of Northumberland and the first to bring this superb house plant into prominence.
Native to southern India, highly prized, and the subject of legend. You’ll find Hoyas throughout eastern Asia to Australia and classified botanically in the Asclepias (milkweed) family.
The exact number of species is a mystery. Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture estimates there are 100 species. Listed at the end of the article are over 550 recognized species.
The most common species and the one most often seen and grown as a hoya houseplant is Hoya carnosa and Hoya carnosa variegata.
Thick leaves of green, rimmed with red and white, and a waxen texture from which it derives the nick-name “variegated wax plant.”
Hoya Flowers Exquisite Creations
In a sunny window, the foliage is unusually decorative, and their late spring and summer flowers are highly prized.
Some consider Hoya blooms among the most exquisite creations of nature, seemingly fashioned from ivory or porcelain, with glimmering centers of ruby and amethyst. The blossom of Hoya carnosa carries a delicate, elusive fragrance which is barely noticeable.
The waxen ball of five-pointed, double stars, is geometrically perfect; giving the bloom an artificial look. Those experiencing Hoya carnosa for the first time are pleasantly surprised to find it is real.
TIP: Do not touch or move the Hoya plant during its blooming period.
Hoya Leaves & Foliage – Striking & Variable
The striking foliage of Hoya carnosa variegate with its succulent foliage is quite variable, and sometimes changes as the plant matures.
The compact form – Hoya carnosa compacta, a curious variation with crumpled foliage, puts out one of the most spectacular blooms of the species.
How To Grow And Care For The Hoya Plant… It Does Not Require Pampering
Native to tropic and subtropical regions, most hoyas do equally well in homes, in protected areas or a greenhouse.
The hoyas that vine and climb do so by means of small stem rootlets, when untrained, they form a thick mat.
Several species make beautiful baskets and look great on a small trellis.
Hoya Light Requirements – a north window providing bright indirect sunlight is a good location. Although the plants do not require direct light, they would not do well away from a window, unless you prefer to grow them under fluorescent grow lights. Supply all but the hottest sun.
More on –> Succulents for Low Light
Potting Soil – a moist, well-drained, light potting soil – African violet soil like this mix at Amazon with some added perlite – is a good growing medium.
Watering – keep the soil moist in spring and summer, dry but not to the point of shriveled foliage in winter. In dry climates, more frequent watering may be necessary.
Some like to mist the leaves frequently. For cleaning the leaves and increasing humidity, misting is fine… but NOT when the plant is budding or in flower.
Temperature – give them medium (50 degrees) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Fertilizer – In spring hoyas react favorably to feeding. Fertilize using a liquid balanced food, about every four weeks, three or four times during the growing season will produce a vigorous growth.
Withhold food during the winter. More on applying liquid plant foods here.
Blooms appear in spring and summer when the plant is most active. Lack of water or too much fertilizer will cause foliage to brown around the edges and perhaps leaves will drop.
As with most plants, Hoyas respond to good care. However, they resent pampering, hovering, and constant handling and moving.
One Hoya peculiarity worth noting: They produce blooms on knobby spurs which stay on the plant even after blossoms fade. New buds will be generated there to provide bloom the next time. The lesson to learn: to encourage prolific blooming, leave the flower spurs on the plant.
Also, for fuller flowering, most growers recommend as a part of Hoya care of keeping the roots pot-bound.
The How To’s Of Hoya Plant Propagation
Propagate Hoya plants from cuttings of top growth, or by leaf cuttings in the same manner as African violets and gloxinias. The average cutting or leaf start will produce a blooming plant in two years or less.
The easiest method of propagation is by air-layering. Layers mature faster and do not need as much patience. Pin down a stem, at the joint, in a moist rooting medium. Sever and pot the new plant after roots form.
I have taken a mature Hoya variegata; severed and planted every leaf and stem, and in less than a year have produced 78 healthy plants! For an excellent starting medium try a commercial soil mix used for growing African violets. I prefer small clay terracotta pots over plastic, although either can be used.
Tips For Rooting Hoya in Water
The most fetching hanging vase I’ve ever seen was a brown jug filled with rooted hoya rubra wax plant cuttings, all growing in water.
The glass of the jug was barely transparent. They used three kinds of hoya wax plants:
- Hoya carnosa (plain green leaves)
- The variegated form of carnosa
- Hoya bella (miniature)
I made a similar planting, and gave the vines food by following the directions on a tub of soluble houseplant fertilizer. However, the vines will thrive unbelievably long without any food in the water.
Seeds Are Scarce
Starting seeds is almost unheard of because the blooms seldom produce seeds. It seems that pollination is a difficult business which in nature is carried out by an insect foreign to the United States.
Hoya Pest and Problems
Hoya has remarkably few pests. The worst is the root-knot nematode. Because of it the hoya is rarely grown out-of-doors in Florida and other frost-free sections where climate would permit. If there is a nematode within 100 miles, it seems to seek the hoya and destroy it.
Aphids enjoy the sweet juices of the hoya, but most common houseplant insecticide sprays, organic sprays of Neem oil or an insecticidal soap will easily control them. Fungus gnat can at times become a problem.
Mealybugs sometimes attack, use the same control (kill) for Aphids. Ants (which accompany aphids), and red spider mites on Hoya indoors can be kept away by periodic application of a malathion spray.
If you do find a hoya dying from a nematode infection, you can salvage leaf and stem cuttings to start new plants. Discard and destroy the roots and soil of an infected plant.
Hoya Plant Care: Questions and Answers
What To Do When Your Hoya Is Not Blooming?
Question: I have an 8-year-old Hoya vine, growing long vines but never flowers. What can I do to make it produce flowers? HB, Minnesota
Answer: Many home hoya growers cannot get their plant to bloom. Plants flourish best in bright light, in humid air, with ample moisture at the roots. But, Hoya plants need a break.
During winter keep the plants cool, 50 degrees, and rather dry. Continued high temperature, fertilizer (liquid), and moisture promotes leaf and stem growth and prevents the formation of flower buds.
After buds set, you can increase the temperature again slightly.
Hoya Bloom Time Lapse
Hoya Plant In Soil Not Flowering, Long Cutting Growing in Water Does Flower – Why?
Question: I have two plants of Hoya motosekei. The original plant is growing in soil. I took a long cutting and rooted it in a glass of water. It is still growing in the water, sitting on the window sill.
The plant in the glass of water blooms. The one in the soil does not. Do you have any idea why?
Answer: The first important item to remember – the Hoya flower only “shows up” on long shoots. Secondly, the wax plant flower will do best when placed next to the glass on the window sill as well.
Personally, I would pot up the blooming plant in a well-draining soil like an African violet mix. Place both plants in the window, keep them well watered and next spring you should see more blooms.
Commonly Grown Hoya “Species”
Hoya australis – has huge, waxen, deep-green leaves measuring nearly four inches across, and splotched with silver. It is a vigorous, strong grower, vining kind with distinctly fragrant flowers, pink with red crowns.
Hoya bandaensis – Sturdy plant with deep-green glossy leaves.
Hoya bella – is a handsome dwarf, small growing species with slender upright branches that droop down as they age; a non climber, small leaves are thick, dark green; flowers are white with purple centers. An old favorite.
Hoya carnosa – Old-timer with shiny dark-green oval-pointed leaves, spreading sprays of faint pink flowers centered with a red star-crown. This one climbs best by sinking its aerial roots into a porous support like a moss pole.
Several variations are available: ‘Exotica,’ with green leaves centered with cream, sometimes pink-tinged; variegata, the leaves irregularly edged with creamy-white, touched with pink in sun.
Hoya coronaria – is a climber, not widely available, with waxy leaves that re-curve and are hairy beneath. It has pale lemon yellow flowers with red spots.
Hoya curtisii – a slow-growing miniature, trailing perennial vine hoya hailing from the jungles of Malaysia, Thailand, and the Philippines.
Hoya imperialis – Stems and leaves dusted with down, margins curled; large red-brown flowers with creamy centers.
Hoya Kerrii – Sweetheart Hoya, slow-growing vine with heart-shaped leaves.
Hoya keysi – has thick close-jointed stems and heavy, gray-green leaves covered with down, off-white flowers, red base.
Hoya latifolia (cinnamonum) – Egg-shaped coppery leaves with paler veins.
Hoya longifolia shepherdi (angustifolia) – Slender leaves indented at the center vein so they’re almost folded; delicate display of white flowers accented with bright wine.
Hoya macrophylla – Creeping species with light-veined, copper-green leaves, white flowers.
Hoya motoskei – Free-flowering vine (considered the true Hoya carnosa) has elliptical leaves of lighter green unevenly speckled with silver; with clusters of pinkish-white flowers with maroon centers.
Hoya multiflora – a stout, climbing plant, with large leathery leaves and pale yellow flowers; ‘Silver Leaf’ is a variety of multiflora with dark green leaves blotched with silvery pink.; red stems; hairy flowers the color of vintage wine, with a crown of silver-pink stars.
Common Name: Wax Flower Plants
Full List Of Hoya Species
Below is a list of 557 Hoya plant types species, subspecies and varieties recognized by The World Checklist of Selected Plant Families at Kew as of September 1, 2017.
- Hoya – 1810
- Hoya acanthominima – 2013
- Hoya acicularis – 2003
- Hoya acuminata – 1883
- Hoya aeschynanthoides – 1908
- Hoya affinis – 1892
- Hoya alagensis – 1990
- Hoya albida – 2013
- Hoya albiflora – 1895
- Hoya aldrichii – 1890
- Hoya alexicaca – 1824
- Hoya alwitriana – 2012
- Hoya amboinensis – 1907
- Hoya amoena – 1950
- Hoya amoena subsp. amoena
- Hoya amoena subsp. bogorensis – 2014
- Hoya amorosoae – 2014
- Hoya amrita – 2011
- Hoya andalensis – 2005
- Hoya anncajanoae – 2008
- Hoya anulata – 1905
- Hoya apoda – 1916
- Hoya apoensis – 2011
- Hoya apoensis subsp. apoensis
- Hoya apoensis subsp. sagittaria – 2013
- Hoya archboldiana – 1937
- Hoya arnottiana – 1834
- Hoya attenuata – 1935
- Hoya aurantiaca – 2009
- Hoya aurigueana – 2012 publ. 2013
- Hoya australis – 1830
- Hoya australis subsp. australis
- Hoya australis subsp. melanesica – 2008
- Hoya australis subsp. nathalieae – 2012
- Hoya australis subsp. oramicola – 1991
- Hoya australis subsp. rupicola – 1991
- Hoya australis subsp. sana – 1988
- Hoya australis subsp. tenuipes – 1991
- Hoya bacunganensis – 2014
- Hoya baishaensis – 2009
- Hoya bakoensis – 2015
- Hoya balaensis – 2007
- Hoya balansae – 1912
- Hoya bandaensis – 1908
- Hoya bandongii – 2011
- Hoya barbonii – 2014
- Hoya bawanglingensis – 2009
- Hoya bebsguevarrae – 2013
- Hoya beccarii – 2013
- Hoya bella – 1848
- Hoya benchaii – 2014
- Hoya benguetensis – 1906
- Hoya benitotanii – 2010
- Hoya benstoneana – 2012 publ. 2013
- Hoya benvergarae – 2008
- Hoya betchei – 1978
- Hoya bhutanica – 1979
- Hoya bicknellii – 1999
- Hoya bicolensis – 2012 publ. 2013
- Hoya bicolor – 2003
- Hoya bifunda – 2013
- Hoya bifunda subsp. bifunda
- Hoya bifunda subsp. integra – 2013
- Hoya bilobata – 1906
- Hoya blashernaezii – 1999
- Hoya blashernaezii subsp. blashernaezii
- Hoya blashernaezii subsp. siariae – 2014
- Hoya blashernaezii subsp. valmayoriana – 2014
- Hoya bonii – 1912
- Hoya bordenii – 1906
- Hoya brevialata – 2001
- Hoya brittonii – 1992
- Hoya brooksii – 1925
- Hoya buotii – 2003
- Hoya burmanica – 1920
- Hoya burtoniae – 1990
- Hoya buruensis – 1869
- Hoya butleriana – 2013
- Hoya cagayanensis – 1987
- Hoya callistophylla – 2000
- Hoya calycina – 1913
- Hoya calycina subsp. calycina
- Hoya calycina subsp. glabrifolia – 1992
- Hoya campanulata – 1827
- Hoya camphorifolia – 1904
- Hoya capotoanensis – 2015
- Hoya carandangiana – 2015
- Hoya cardiophylla – 1920 publ. 1921
- Hoya carmelae – 2010
- Hoya carnosa – 1810
- Hoya caudata – 1883
- Hoya celata – 2013
- Hoya celsa – 2013
- Hoya cembra – 1990
- Hoya chewiorum – 2014
- Hoya chiekoae – 2013
- Hoya chinghungensis – 1995
- Hoya chlorantha – 1908
- Hoya chloroleuca – 1913
- Hoya chunii – 1984
- Hoya ciliata – 1988
- Hoya cinnamomifolia – 1848
- Hoya clemensiorum – 2001
- Hoya collettii – 1914
- Hoya collina – 1913
- Hoya columna – 2015
- Hoya cominsii – 1891
- Hoya commutata – 1995
- Hoya concava – 2014
- Hoya corazoniae – 2010
- Hoya cordata – 1985
- Hoya coriacea – 1827
- Hoya coriacea subsp. coriacea
- Hoya coriacea subsp. philippinensis – 2013
- Hoya coronaria – 1827
- Hoya corymbosa – 2013 publ. 2014
- Hoya crassicaulis – 1995
- Hoya crassicaulis subsp. capazensis – 2016
- Hoya crassicaulis subsp. crassicaulis
- Hoya crassior – 1936
- Hoya cumingiana – 1844
- Hoya cupula – 2013
- Hoya curtisii – 1908
- Hoya cutis-porcelana – 2013
- Hoya daimenglongensis – 2012
- Hoya danumensis – 2009
- Hoya dasyantha – 1936
- Hoya davidcummingii – 1995
- Hoya dennisii – 1993
- Hoya densifolia – 1848
- Hoya desvoeuxensis – 2011
- Hoya devogelii – 2011
- Hoya deykei – 2000
- Hoya dickasoniana – 1994
- Hoya dictyoneura – 1905
- Hoya dimorpha – 1898
- Hoya diptera – 1866
- Hoya dischorensis – 1913
- Hoya diversifolia – 1827
- Hoya diversifolia var. diversifolia
- Hoya diversifolia subsp. el-nidicus – 2001
- Hoya dolichosparte – 1916
- Hoya eburnea – 2013
- Hoya edanoi – 1993
- Hoya edeni – 1883
- Hoya eitapensis – 1913
- Hoya elegans – 1834
- Hoya elliptica – 1883
- Hoya elmeri – 1929
- Hoya endauensis – 1989
- Hoya engleriana – 1907
- Hoya epedunculata – 1913
- Hoya erythrina – 1978
- Hoya erythrostemma – 1939
- Hoya espaldoniana – 2014
- Hoya estrellaensis – 2012
- Hoya excavata – 1863
- Hoya exilis – 1913
- Hoya faoensis – 2008
- Hoya fauziana – 2015
- Hoya ferrerasii – 2010
- Hoya fetuana – 2003
- Hoya filiformis – 1908
- Hoya finlaysonii – 1834
- Hoya fischeriana – 1904
- Hoya fitchii – 2009
- Hoya fitoensis – 2015
- Hoya flavescens – 1913
- Hoya flavida – 1993
- Hoya forbesii – 1908
- Hoya foxii – 2014
- Hoya fraterna – 1849
- Hoya fungii – 1934
- Hoya fusca – 1830
- Hoya fuscomarginata – 1910
- Hoya galeraensis – 2015
- Hoya gelba – 2013
- Hoya gigantanganensis – 1992
- Hoya gigas – 1913
- Hoya gildingii – 2002
- Hoya glabra – 1908
- Hoya globulifera – 1849
- Hoya globulosa – 1882
- Hoya golamcoana – 1991
- Hoya gracilipes – 1905
- Hoya gracilis – 1908
- Hoya graveolens – 1939
- Hoya greenii – 1995
- Hoya griffithii – 1883
- Hoya guppyi – 1887
- Hoya halconensis – 1990
- Hoya halophila – 1913
- Hoya hamiltoniorum – 2014
- Hoya hanhiae – 2014
- Hoya hernaezii – 2016
- Hoya heuschkeliana – 1989
- Hoya heuschkeliana subsp. cajanoae – 2007
- Hoya heuschkeliana subsp. heuschkeliana
- Hoya heuschkeliana subsp. marionii – 2014
- Hoya histora – 2015
- Hoya hypolasia – 1913
- Hoya ignorata – 2011
- Hoya ilagiorum – 2011
- Hoya imbricata – 1844
- Hoya imbricata subsp. imbricata
- Hoya imbricata subsp. megapollinia – 2014
- Hoya imperialis – 1846
- Hoya inconspicua – 1894
- Hoya incrassata – 1904
- Hoya incurvula – 1916
- Hoya inflata – 2007
- Hoya irisiae – 2014
- Hoya isabelaensis – 2011
- Hoya isabelchanae – 2016
- Hoya ischnopus – 1913
- Hoya jianfenglingensis – 2011
- Hoya jiewhoeana – 2016
- Hoya josetteae – 2016
- Hoya juannguoana – 2002
- Hoya kanlaonensis – 2010
- Hoya kanyakumariana – 1978 publ. 1979
- Hoya kastbergii – 2003
- Hoya kenejiana – 1913
- Hoya kentiana – 1991
- Hoya kerrii – 1911 (Sweetheart Hoya)
- Hoya kingdonwardii – 1994
- Hoya kipandiensis – 2014
- Hoya kloppenburgii – 2001
- Hoya klossii – 1916
- Hoya krohniana – 2009
- Hoya kuhlii – 1912
- Hoya kuhlii var. hasseltii – 1949
- Hoya kuhlii var. kuhlii
- Hoya lactea – 1914
- Hoya lacunosa – 1827
- Hoya lagunaensis – 2014
- Hoya lambii – 2000
- Hoya lambioae – 2015
- Hoya lamingtoniae – 1898
- Hoya lanceolaria – 1916
- Hoya lanceolata – 1825
- Hoya landgrantensis – 2009
- Hoya lanotooensis – 2015
- Hoya larrycahilogii – 2016
- Hoya lasiantha – 1849
- Hoya lasiogynostegia – 1984
- Hoya latifolia – 1837
- Hoya laurifolia – 1838
- Hoya laurifoliopsis – 1936
- Hoya lauterbachii – 1896
- Hoya leembruggeniana – 1911
- Hoya leucantha – 1916
- Hoya leucorhoda – 1913
- Hoya leytensis – 1988
- Hoya liangii – 1936
- Hoya limoniaca – 1921
- Hoya linavergarae – 2006
- Hoya lindaueana – 1911
- Hoya linearis – 1825
- Hoya linusii – 2014
- Hoya lipoensis – 1985
- Hoya lithophytica – 2012
- Hoya lobbii – 1883
- Hoya lockii – 2012
- Hoya loheri – 1991
- Hoya loheri subsp. loheri
- Hoya loheri subsp. tanawanensis – 2015
- Hoya longifolia – 1834
- Hoya longipedunculata – 2012
- Hoya lucardenasiana – 2009
- Hoya lucyae – 2006
- Hoya lutea – 1834
- Hoya lyi – 1907
- Hoya macgillivrayi – 1914
- Hoya macrophylla – 1827
- Hoya madulidii – 1990
- Hoya magnifica – 1992
- Hoya magniflora – 1984
- Hoya mahaweeensis – 2015
- Hoya maingayi – 1883
- Hoya mappigera – 2012
- Hoya marananiae – 2015
- Hoya marginata – 1905
- Hoya mariae – 2011
- Hoya martinii – 2015
- Hoya marvinii – 2013
- Hoya mata-ole-afiensis – 2015
- Hoya matavanuensis – 2011
- Hoya maxima – 1863
- Hoya maximowayetii – 2015
- Hoya mcgregorii – 1906
- Hoya medinillifolia – 2011
- Hoya megalantha – 1915
- Hoya megalaster – 1900
- Hoya meliflua – 1918
- Hoya meliflua subsp. escobinae – 2016
- Hoya meliflua subsp. meliflua
- Hoya memoria – 2004
- Hoya mengtzeensis – 1974
- Hoya meredithii – 1988
- Hoya merrillii – 1904
- Hoya micrantha – 1883
- Hoya microphylla – 1913
- Hoya microstemma – 1913
- Hoya minahassae – 1916
- Hoya mindorensis – 1906
- Hoya mindorensis subsp. mindorensis
- Hoya mindorensis subsp. sarawakensis – 2016
- Hoya minima – 1912
- Hoya minutiflora – 2010
- Hoya mirabilis – 2012
- Hoya mitrata – 1940
- Hoya monetteae – 2004
- Hoya moninae – 2014
- Hoya montana – 1913
- Hoya mucronulata – 1906
- Hoya multiflora – 1823
- Hoya myanmarica – 1994
- Hoya myrmecopa – 2001
- Hoya myrmecopa subsp. kapatalanensis – 2013
- Hoya myrmecopa subsp. myrmecopa
- Hoya nabawanensis – 2002
- Hoya nakarensis – 2013
- Hoya naumannii – 1908
- Hoya navicula – 2015
- Hoya neocaledonica – 1906
- Hoya neoebudica – 1937
- Hoya neoguineensis – 1886
- Hoya nervosa – 1974
- Hoya nicobarica – 1830
- Hoya nummularia – 1883
- Hoya nummularioides – 1912
- Hoya nuttiana – 2013
- Hoya nuuuliensis – 2008
- Hoya nyhuusiae – 2003
- Hoya obcordata – 1883
- Hoya oblanceolata – 1883
- Hoya oblongacutifolia – 1912
- Hoya obovata – 1844
- Hoya obscura – 1986
- Hoya obtusifolia – 1834
- Hoya occlusa – 1912
- Hoya odetteae – 1998
- Hoya odorata – 1906
- Hoya odorata subsp. antoinsensis – 2015
- Hoya odorata subsp. garciae – 2015
- Hoya odorata subsp. odorata
- Hoya odorata subsp. taytayensis – 2015
- Hoya ofuensis – 2015
- Hoya oleoides – 1913
- Hoya oligantha – 1913
- Hoya omlorii – 2011
- Hoya onychoides – 1995
- Hoya opposita – 1837
- Hoya oreogena – 1939
- Hoya oreostemma – 1913
- Hoya orientalis – 1984
- Hoya ormocensis – 2014
- Hoya ottolanderi – 1911
- Hoya ovalifolia – 1834
- Hoya oxycoccoides – 1916
- Hoya pachyclada – 1939
- Hoya pachyphylla – 1900
- Hoya pachypus – 1914
- Hoya padangensis – 1916
- Hoya palawanensis – 2015
- Hoya palawanensis subsp. minor – 2015
- Hoya palawanensis subsp. palawanensis
- Hoya palawanica – 1990
- Hoya pallilimba – 2001
- Hoya panayensis – 2009
- Hoya pandurata – 1939
- Hoya papaschonii – 2014
- Hoya papillantha – 1898
- Hoya papuana – 1913
- Hoya parasitica – 1834
- Hoya parvapollinia – 2015
- Hoya parviflora – 1834
- Hoya parvifolia – 1908
- Hoya patella – 1913
- Hoya pauciflora – 1848
- Hoya paulshirleyi – 2010
- Hoya paziae – 1990
- Hoya pedunculata – 1913
- Hoya peekelii – 1927
- Hoya pentaphlebia – 1918
- Hoya perakensis – 1911
- Hoya persicina – 2012 publ. 2013
- Hoya persicina subsp. persicina
- Hoya persicina subsp. rosea – 2013
- Hoya persicinicoronaria – 2009
- Hoya phuwuaensis – 2016
- Hoya phyllura – 1931
- Hoya piestolepis – 1913
- Hoya pimenteliana – 1999
- Hoya platycaulis – 2009
- Hoya plicata – 1908
- Hoya polilloensis – 2013
- Hoya polyneura – 1883
- Hoya pottsii – 1829
- Hoya pruinosa – 1857
- Hoya pseudoleytensis – 2013
- Hoya pubens – 1912
- Hoya puber – 1827
- Hoya pubicalyx – 1918
- Hoya pubicenta – 2014
- Hoya pubicorolla – 2013
- Hoya pubicorolla subsp. anthracina – 2013
- Hoya pubicorolla subsp. pubicorolla
- Hoya pulchella – 1913
- Hoya purpurea – 1849
- Hoya purpureofusca – 1850
- Hoya pusilla – 1978
- Hoya pusilliflora – 1916
- Hoya pycnophylla – 1908
- Hoya querinoensis – 2007
- Hoya quinquenervia – 1904
- Hoya quisumbingii – 1992
- Hoya radicalis – 1974
- Hoya ralphdavisiana – 2014
- Hoya ramosii – 2007
- Hoya ranauensis – 2014
- Hoya recurvula – 2000
- Hoya recurvula subsp. bokorensis – 2010
- Hoya recurvula subsp. recurvula
- Hoya reticulata – 1824
- Hoya retrorsa – 2014
- Hoya retusa – 1852
- Hoya revolubilis – 1974
- Hoya revoluta – 1883
- Hoya reyesii – 2016
- Hoya rhodostele – 1923
- Hoya rhodostemma – 1913
- Hoya rigida – 1939
- Hoya rima – 2014
- Hoya rintzii – 2014
- Hoya rizaliana – 1991
- Hoya rosarioae – 2015
- Hoya rosea – 1905
- Hoya rostellata – 2015
- Hoya rotundiflora – 2011
- Hoya rubida – 1905
- Hoya rumphii – 1827
- Hoya rundumensis – 2013
- Hoya ruthiae – 2015
- Hoya salmonea – 2013
- Hoya salmonea subsp. pallida – 2013
- Hoya salmonea subsp. salmonea
- Hoya salweenica – 1974
- Hoya samarensis – 2012
- Hoya samarensis subsp. gutierrezii – 2014
- Hoya samarensis subsp. samarensis
- Hoya sammannaniana – 2014
- Hoya samoensis – 1866
- Hoya santafeensis – 2015
- Hoya santiagoi – 2011
- Hoya santiagoi subsp. mandozae – 2013
- Hoya santiagoi subsp. santiagoi
- Hoya sapaensis – 2011
- Hoya sarcophylla – 1917
- Hoya savaiiensis – 2009
- Hoya savaiiensis subsp. falealupoensis – 2015
- Hoya savaiiensis subsp. savaiiensis
- Hoya schallertiae – 1982
- Hoya schneei – 1921
- Hoya scortechinii – 1908
- Hoya seanwhistleriana – 2015
- Hoya serpens – 1883
- Hoya shepherdii – 1861
- Hoya siamica – 1911
- Hoya sigillatis – 2004
- Hoya sigillatis subsp. paitanensis – 2014
- Hoya silvatica – 1974
- Hoya sipitangensis – 2002
- Hoya smithii – 2009
- Hoya soidaoensis – 2013
- Hoya solaniflora – 1913
- Hoya soligamiana – 2009
- Hoya somadeeae – 2012
- Hoya sororia – 1905
- Hoya spartioides – 2001
- Hoya stenophylla – 1913
- Hoya stoneana – 2006
- Hoya subcalva – 1901
- Hoya subglabra – 1913
- Hoya subquaterna – 1857
- Hoya subquintuplinervis – 1869
- Hoya sulitii – 2015
- Hoya surigaoensis – 2010
- Hoya sussuela – 1917
- Hoya tamaleaaea – 2008
- Hoya tamdaoensis – 2015
- Hoya tangerina – 2014
- Hoya tannaensis – 2011
- Hoya tauensis – 2011
- Hoya taytayensis – 2013
- Hoya telosmoides – 1996
- Hoya tenggerensis – 1950
- Hoya teretifolia – 1883
- Hoya thailandica – 2001
- Hoya thomsonii – 1883
- Hoya thuathienhuensis – 2012
- Hoya tiatuilaensis – 2013
- Hoya tjadasmalangensis – 1950
- Hoya tjampeaensis – 1936
- Hoya tomataensis – 2004
- Hoya torricellensis – 1913
- Hoya trigonolobos – 1905
- Hoya trukensis – 1937
- Hoya tsangii – 1988
- Hoya tsiangiana – 1984
- Hoya × tuafanua – 2002
- Hoya ubudensis – 2010
- Hoya uncinata – 1863
- Hoya undulata – 2015
- Hoya unica – 2013
- Hoya unruhiana – 2013
- Hoya uplandgrantensis – 2015
- Hoya upoluensis – 1898
- Hoya vacciniiflora – 1931
- Hoya vaccinioides – 1883
- Hoya vangviengiensis – 2012
- Hoya vanuatensis – 2006
- Hoya variifolia – 1926
- Hoya velasioi – 2015
- Hoya velasioi subsp. grandiora – 2015
- Hoya velasioi subsp. velasioi
- Hoya venusta – 1913
- Hoya verticillata – 1837
- Hoya verticillata var. citrina – 1996
- Hoya verticillata var. hendersonii – 1996
- Hoya verticillata var. verticillata
- Hoya vicencioana – 2012 publ. 2013
- Hoya vicencioana subsp. quezonensis – 2015
- Hoya vicencioana subsp. vicencioana
- Hoya villosa – 1912
- Hoya vitellina – 1849
- Hoya vitellinoides – 1950
- Hoya vitiensis – 1915
- Hoya wallichii – 1996
- Hoya walliniana – 2003
- Hoya wariana – 1913
- Hoya wayetii – 1993
- Hoya waymaniae – 1995
- Hoya weebella – 2005
- Hoya whistleri – 2002
- Hoya wibergiae – 2001
- Hoya wibergiae subsp. alba – 2015
- Hoya wibergiae subsp. wibergiae
- Hoya wightii – 1883
- Hoya wightii subsp. palniensis – 1992
- Hoya wightii subsp. wightii
- Hoya williamsiana – 2013
- Hoya wongii – 2011
- Hoya wrayi – 1908
- Hoya yapiana – 2010
- Hoya yingjiangensis – 2015
- Hoya yuennanensis – 1936
by Alma Brand shares her experiences with Hoya carnosa.
During the summer my greenhouse is festooned with hundreds of coral star-clusters from the old-fashioned wax-plant, Hoya carnosa. During the winter its ovate, leathery leaves form an ornamental pattern against the roof-glass, providing protection for shade-loving plants on the bench below.
The rounded flower clusters hang heavily from the vines overhead and are not hidden by foliage. As many as fifty 1/2-inch star-shaped flowers make up one cluster or umbel. And on a plant exposed to the sun, as mine has been, these bouquets may be spaced less than 6 inches apart, borne along the vine on short peduncles or spurs in the axils of the leaves.
The vine, trained across a 6-foot section of the glass (there must be more than 150 feet of vine), gives the effect of a fragrant, star-studded bower. Its 10-inch pot placed on the sill leaves the bench free for other plants.
The first flowers fully open by late April. After a month or so, they darken and are pushed off the spurs by new buds forming. This cycle continues until the last flowers fall in late October.
Some like to pinch off old flower stems but should hold back with this plant. New blooms grow on the old spurs; and the older and longer the spurs, the larger the umbel of flowers will be.
For best bloom the plant should rest in winter, receiving only enough water to keep it from drying out. The plants seem to grow in any soil and will tolerate years of neglect, but a porous soil of peat moss, perlite and coarse sand, with a little charcoal, has served me well.
My Spectacular Wax Plant
By Clara Shattner
My wax plant, Hoya carnosa, was given to me as a small rooted cutting a few years ago. I had never seen a plant like it before but fortunately, I gave it the right care – a sunny window, water whenever the top soil seemed dry, and a pot trellis on which to climb.
The foliage is heavy, leaves are dark green with a few creamy white speckles. The entire plant shines and looks as fresh as though just sprinkled by a soft spring rain.
The white flowers have a delicate pink tinge and appear in umbrella like clusters. You have to touch them to see if they are real for they appear to be made of wax. In the very center of each flower is a tiny red wreath, which looks like a small crown.
When the flowers are mature, a liquid substance slowly forms in the center of each, and when it is as large as a tear it drops to the ground. This, and the fact that it blooms during the Lenten season, possibly account for one of its common names, tears of Christ.
There were at least fifteen flowers on my plant just before Easter last year and their sweet scent filled the house each evening. The perfume is noticeable only at night, disappearing without a trace during the day.
Cuttings are easy to start in moist peatmoss, perlite, vermiculite, or sphagnum moss. Be careful not to take too many cuttings – if you do, you’ll cut off the blooming tips and forfeit future flowers on your old plant.
Images: Top dhobern | Hoya samoensis | Hoya macgillivrayii | Hoya aldrichii | Hoya micrantha
How to Grow a Hoya Plant
The Hoya plant is known for its thick leaves and a characteristic shape. They are climbing and clambering so they make a very interesting sight in any home. The Hoya plants are also known as “the Hindu rope” or “Wax plant”. They are wax-stemmed and produce beautiful flowers. Many people like to grow them in their home, balcony or garden.
These plants have been enjoyed for decades and they are very popular among many home gardeners. The Hoys plant has wheel-like clusters of porcelain or waxy flowers. The flowers typically have stars in their crowns. The flowers often produce unique, enjoyable fragrance.
The Hoya Plant: Basic Information
This plant was named in honor of Thomas Hoym, who was a gardener for the Duke of Northumberland. Hoym was the first one who recognized the beauty and uniqueness of this plant and he brought it into prominence.
The Hoya plant is native to southern India. There, the Hoya plant is highly prized and it’s even a subject of legend. These plants are also commonly found throughout eastern Asia and Australia.
The Hoya plant is botanically classified in the asclepias (milkweed) family.
There are many species of the Hoya plant but it’s not clear how many of them are there exactly. According to the Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture, there are around 100 species of these plant. The most common species is Hoya carnosa variegata. This one is commonly grown as a houseplant.
There are also other species and varieties some people choose to grow. For example, Hoya carnosa variegata has a very striking, variable foliage. The appearance of the foliage sometimes changes as the plant matures.
Another variety, Hoya carnosa compacta, is an interesting plant. It has crumpled foliage. On the other hand, its blooms are among the most spectacular of the all Hoya plant varieties.
The Hoya plants that climb use small stem rootlets. When they are untrained they form a thick mat. Some of the species make beautiful baskets.
The Hoya plants are generally known for its foliage. The plant has thick leaves of green, rimmed with white and red. The leaves have a waxen texture, hence the name of the plant. The Hoya plants are very characteristic and beautiful so it’s not surprising that so many people choose to grow it in their home.
Hoya has beautiful blooms and they are uniquely looking. They seem as if they are fashioned from ivory of porcelain, with beautiful centers made of ruby and amethyst. You will recognize this plant for its waxen ball of double, five-pointed stars. It’s geometrically perfect so it almost seems artificial. Don’t be surprised if some of your guests don’t believe your Hoya is real until they approach it. They will be pleasantly surprised to know that yes, it’s real.
Hoya Plant Care
Here are some basic tips and information on how to care for your Hoya plant.
The plant is native to tropical and subtropical regions, which influence the care you should provide. However, most Hoya plants can thrive indoors and they generally don’t require much care. You should place it in protected areas or in a greenhouse. A Hoya plant can also be kept in a sunny window. The foliage can be decorative and the plant will flower in late spring or summer.
On the other hand, your Hoya plant can also thrive in a north window. It’s actually a good location in a home environment. What is important to provide is enough light. Hoya plants don’t require direct light but they should not be kept away from a window. The only exception is to grow your Hoya plant under fluorescent grow lights. A general rule of thumb here is to provide all but the hottest sun.
When it comes to soil requirements, Hoya thrives in a moist, light, well-drained soil. You can use African Violet soil for your Hoya plants. Just make sure to add some perlite. It’s a great growing medium for these plants.
Watering should be such to allow your Hoya plant to grow in a moist soil in spring and summer. During winter, the soil should be dry, but not to the point of shriveled foliage. Keep in mind that a more frequent watering might be necessary in dry climates.
Some people choose to mist the leaves frequently. This will clean the foliage and increase humidity. This is a good thing to do, just make sure not to do it when the plant is budding or in flower.
When it comes to temperature requirements, it’s best to give your Hoya plants medium (around 50 degrees) or a warm temperature during the growing season (spring and summer). The plant will go semi-dormant in winter.
Fertilizer: Your Hoya plant will benefit from some fertilizer in the spring. You should apply a liquid food about once in every four weeks. The feeding should be applied 3-4 times during the growing season. It will help the plant grow vigorously. During winter, it’s best to withhold food. As pointed above, the plant is semi-dormant during that time so fertilizer is not required.
Keep in mind that the lack of water or too much fertilizer can cause the foliage to develop brown edges. In some cases. The leaves might drop.
The blooms will appear when the plant is most active, during spring and summer. Remember: you should never move or touch your Hoya plant during its blooming period. You should admire it from afar.
Just like most other plants, Hoyas respond well to good care, so you should provide it. However, it’s important not to pamper them – Hoyas don’t respond well to that. Resist constant hovering, handling or moving. Most of the time, your Hoya plant is best to be left alone.
It’s best to propagate your Hoya plant by cuttings of top growth. Alternatively, you may use leaf cuttings in the same way you propagate African violets or gloxinias. On average, a cutting or a leaf will produce a blooming plant in about two years (sometimes even less!)
The quickest and easiest way to propagate your Hoya plants is by layering. Layers mature faster and they don’t require so much care or patience on your part. All you need to do is to pin down a stem at the joint in a moist rooting medium. When the roots have formed, sever the new plant and pot it in a new container.
Layering is great for those who want quick and good results. For example, one mature Hoya plant can give 50+ plants in less than a year using layering for propagation. For layering, it’s best to use commercial African violet soil as a growing medium. Also, using clay pots and not plastic ones gives better results (though it’s ok to use the plastic ones if you don’t have clay pots).
You can also root your Hoya cuttings in water. It’s best to use a jug filled with water for this purpose. Hoya varieties that do good when this method is used are Hoya carnosa (with plain green leaves), a variegated form of carnosa and Hoya bella (miniature).
It’s theoretically possible to start a Hoya plant using seeds, but it’s almost unheard of. The reason is that seeds are scarce. The blooms seldom produce seeds. The pollination is difficult so this is why this method is not common. In their native environment, the Hoya plants are pollinated by insects not known in other parts of the world (America, Europe), so this is why starting Hoyas by seeds is very uncommon.
Pests and Diseases
Hoya plants don’t have many pests. Probably the worst of them all is the root-knot nematode. Since Hoya plants are not commonly grown outdoors, this problem is not really common. However, these nematodes do like Hoya plants and can “sense” it from a far, so it’s something to watch out for.
In case your Hoya plant is dying from a nematode infection, the only thing you can do is to salvage leaf and stem cuttings and start a new plant from them. Make sure to destroy the roots and soil of the infected plant.
Aphids may also pose a problem, though it’s rare. Aphids like the sweet juices of the Hoya plants. However, they can easily be controlled by most of the insecticide sprays or insecticidal soaps.
Mealybugs will sometimes attack a Hoya plant but they can easily be controlled in the same way Aphids are controlled. Ants often accompany aphids and red spider mites might pose a problem but they can be kept away with a malathion spray (use it periodically).
Here are some additional tips that will help you care for your Hoya plant and make it thrive.
- The Hoya plants have unique blooms, which are produces on knobby spurs. These spurs should stay on the plant even after the blossoms have faded. The plant will grow new buds on these spots. In order to encourage your Hoya plant to bloom, it’s best to leave those spurs on the plant even after the original blossoms have faded.
- For the best, fuller flowering, it’s good for Hoya’s roots to be pot-bound.
- What to do if your Hoya plant doesn’t bloom? Fear not: it happens to many Hoyas grown indoors. Make sure to provide the optimal care discussed above. In order to bloom, your Hoya plant needs to thrive. A Hoya plant flourish best when kept in bring light, with ample moisture around the roots and in humid air.
- Winter care should be different than care given during a growing season. During winter, keep your plant cool (50 degrees F max) and dry. If you continue with high temperatures and fertilizing you are promoting the leaf and stem growth, which prevents the formation of the flower buds, which will prevent your Hoya from flowering in the spring.
- During winter, when you observe that the buds are set, you may increase the temperature slightly.
Most Common Hoya Species
Here is a quick list of the most common Hoya species. You can grow most of them in your home.
Hoya australis. This species has big, waxen, deep-green leaves. They are about 4 inches across. They can be recognized easily because they are splotched with silver. This plant is a strong grower and it likes to vines. Its flowers are fragrant and very beautiful: pink with red crowns.
Hoya bandaensis. This is a sturdy plant with glossy leaves in deep-green color.
Hoya bella. This is a dwarf species. It doesn’t grow fast but it looks very beautiful. It has slender upright branches that will droop down as they age. This is a non-climber species. The leaves are thick and dark green. Its flowers are white with purple centers. It’s one of the most popular Hoya species among home gardeners.
Hoya carnosa. This is another old-timer. It has shiny, dark green leaves. The leaves oval and pointed. This species has faint pink flowers centered with a red star-crown. It’s a great climber and it climbs best by sinking its aerial roots into a porous support such as a moss pole. There ar several variations available: “Exotica”, which has green leaves centered with cream (sometimes pink-tinged); Variegata, with irregularly edged leaves with creamy-white and touched with pink in sun.
Hoya coronaria. This species is a great climber. The downside is that it’s not widely available. This plant has waxy leaves that re-curve. The leaves are hairy beneath. This species produces pale, lemon-yellow flowers with red spots.
Hoya imperialis. With this species, the stems and leaves are dusted with down and margins are curled. These plants have big, red-brown flowers with creamy centers.
Hoya keysi. These plants have thick, close-jointed stems. The leaves are heavy, gray-green and covered with down, off-white flowers with red base.
Hoya latifolia (cinnamonum). This species has egg-shaped, coppery leaves with pale veins.
Hoya longifolia shepherdi (angustifolia). This plant has slender leaves intended at the center vein so they appear almost folded. The flowers are white, accented with bright wine and delicate.
Hoya macrophylla. This is a creeping species with copper-green, light-veined leaves. The flowers are white.
Hoya motoskei. This is a free-flowering vine and it’s considered to be the true Hoya carnosa. It has elliptical leaves in lighter green color and unevenly speckled with silver. The flowers appear in clusters and they are pinkish-white, with maroon centers.
Hoya multiflora. This is a stout, climbing plant. It has huge, leathery leaves. It’s flowers are yellow. It has a distinctive variety: “Silver Leaf”. This is a multiflora with dark-green leaves blotched with silvery pink. They have red stems and are hairy. The flowers are the color of vintage wine, with crowns of silver-pink stars.
how do you propogate a Hindu Rope Plant??
okay. The best length for a cutting is about 4 to 6 nodes…nodes are where the leaves are growing from (just in case you call them something else) So pick out the vine you want to cut. It should not be very new, very tender growth, but you also don’t want it to be old woody growth either. Try to find something in between.
Count the nodes from the tip of the vine down, cut just below the 5th or 6th node.
Strip the leaves from the bottom nodes, or even the bottom 2 nodes. I like to leave the cutting with at least two sets of leaves above the stripped nodes.
Use the smallest pot you have, 2 or 3 inch is good. If you are going to root a few cuttings together, then obviously use a bigger size. I like to root 3 cuttings together, so that I will get a fuller plant later, and in that case, usually use a 4″ pot. Use a good soil mix with plenty of perlite and small pieces of orhcid bark mixed in – if you have that stuff. If not, just make sure its a good quality soil. I try not to use the kind with fertilizer mixed in. Fill the pot, moisten the soil, then poke a holes in the soil for each cutting with a pencil or a chopstick.
If you have rooting hormone, it helps to dip the bare node part of the stem in, tap off the excess, then stick it into the soil, making sure that the bare nodes are buried below soil level. If you can, try to stick the cutting in so that the first set of leaves sit right above the soil line.
Put it in a bright but not direct sun spot, mist a few times a day if you can, don’t let it get totally dry – but be careful not to overwater too. You want the soil to dry out a little, but never completely.
You could root the cuttings in water, but to me that is an unecessary step, because eventually you have to put them in soil anyway, so why not just do it from the get go? Hoyas root fairly easily in soil.
Here’s a pic of a hoya crassicaulis cutting I just potted up a few days ago. It’s a very “viney” cutting, so there is a green plant stake in there to which the top part of the vine is clipped to. But I wanted you to see how I buried the cutting right up to the next node with a leaf on it. Reason for his is because there are alot of root hormones at the nodes, so not only do you have the nodes under the soil that will produce roots, but the one right above the soil is likely to as well. It isn’t a must, you will get roots from the buried nodes even if you don’t do it, but it helps I think, so I do it when I can.
This message was edited Jun 14, 2009 2:10 PM
Hoya compacta C.M. Burton
Hindu Rope Plant, Hindu Rope, Hindu Rope Hoya, Indian Rope, Angel Rope, Wax Plant, Porcelain Flower, Krinkle Kurl
Hoya carnosa ‘Compacta’, Hoya carnosa f. compacta, Hoya compacta ‘Krinkle Kurl’
Hoya compacta, also known as Hoya carnosa ‘Compacta’ or Hoya compacta ‘Krinkle Kurl’, is draping, succulent vine that produces clusters of star-shaped, waxy flowers. The curly leaves grow close on the vine making it possible to miss new peduncles and buds until they are quite big. The leaves vary in size and color, but they can be described as curly Hoya carnosa leaves. The flowers are mostly pale pink and the white corona has a red ring in the middle. They form almost round balls and last about one week. You can find 30 to 50 flowers in an umbel. Each flower is up to 0.6 inch (1.5 cm) across.
Photo via mercadolivre.com.br
USDA hardiness zones 10b to 11b: from 35 °F (+1.7 °C) to 50 °F (+10 °C).
How to Grow and Care
Hoyas don’t ask for much, beyond the well-draining soil and the warm humid conditions that many tropical flowers crave. They don’t like wet feet or heavy soil and as many grow as epiphytes in nature. Give them at least a half day of sunshine and bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 °F (10 °C).
When your Hoya finishes blooming, leave the flower stalk, as it may produce new flowers. Removing the stalk forces the plant to produce a new stalk, which delays blooming and wastes the plant’s energy. These plants are light feeders and a monthly drink of compost tea or dilute fish emulsion provides all the nutrition these tropicals need. Hoyas like the security of a snug pot and plants that are a bit root bound will flower more prolifically than those that are swimming around in a giant pot.
Propagate Hoyas by cuttings of top growth or by leaf cuttings. The average cutting or leaf will produce a blooming plant in 2 years or less. The easiest method of propagation is by layering.
Learn more at How to Grow and Care for Hoya.
Hoya compacta has never been found in a wild habitat and it is probably a cultivar of Hoya carnosa.
Subspecies, Varieties, Forms, Cultivars and Hybrids
- Hoya compacta ‘Regalis’
- Back to genus Hoya
- Succulentopedia: Browse succulents by Scientific Name, Common Name, Genus, Family, USDA Hardiness Zone, Origin, or cacti by Genus
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Plant Rescue: Hoya Carnosa Compacta ‘Hindu Rope’
When I first saw this Hoya carnosa compacta cutting on the clearance shelf, my first thought was one of joy. I can think of a lot of online plant pals that would love to have this cutting and plant in their collection. However, upon further inspection, this cutting was in bad shape.
This Hoya’s leaves were a dry wrinkled mess. The roots where encased in that green floral foam that you use for floral arrangements. However, I am optimistic that his Hoya will bounce back.
After breaking open the casing, the roots were small and dry. By placing the roots in water I am hoping to reboot some growth and plump the leaves. This would be a true tell of whether or not this Hoya carnosa would survive.
Hoya Carnosa Compacta Care:
- Hoyas like loose well draining soil. Think about usuing potting soil mixed with extra perlite or a bark mix like Orchid bark.
- Do not overwater your Hoya. Let them dry out in between watering.
- Place you Hoya in bright indirect light. They are sensitive to direct sunlight
Plant Rescue Update:
I am happy to report that after a couple weeks of water therapy, the leaves were starting to fill out and plump. A few more weeks and there was new root growth that told me this Hoya was ready to be potted up.
I worried about transitioning this cutting to soil, however I mixed up some potting soil. A mixture of potting soil, perlite and some cactus soil. I added the cactus mix because it was what I had on hand, but I suspect that it will help the water drain.
If you are into plant rescues then check out this playlist for SuburbanSill’s plant rescues. You might also like this popular post about rescuing a Ctenanthe lubbersiana or Never-Never plant.
Hoyas may be propagated by seed, or stem or leaf cuttings. The seed pods can take months to ripen. Once they have ripened, the seed pods split and the seeds are dispersed by the air. To prevent this if you wish to collect seeds, cover the seed pod with gauze or old nylon stocking material. Once the pod splits down its length when gently twisted, the seed floss can be removed from the seeds. This seems to prevent “damping off” of the seeds and seedlings. Use only freshly harvested seeds, these seem to germinated better. Seeds may be started in pots or flats. The seedlings seem to grow faster in large batches. Use a good quality soiless potting mix enriched with 30% perlite or pumice and water only from below. Cover the newly planted seeds with a thin layer of dry potting mix. Once the seedlings start to develop true leaves, repot and plant out separately.
Propagation from stem cuttings is relatively easy. Use a cutting with 2 to 3 leaf nodes. Remove the leaves from the lower node, dust the end with rooting hormone powder and bury in a good soiless mixture with 30-40% added perlite or pumice. Water to thoroughly wet the soil and then allow to drain. Do not allow the soil to dry out or stand with excess water in a saucer. If you live in a very dry region, an occasional misting to raise humidity will help. Grouping plants together will also help to raise humidity.
Leaf cuttings can be more problematic. The leaf should be placed in the soil at a 45° angle, with the stem buried to the base of the leaf. Rooting hormone seems to enhance rooting. Often leaves develop roots but do not go on to produce healthy plants.
The roots forming off the stem cutting.
Moving on to something I have experience and success with. This makes me happy because it’s the basis of this blog – sharing my knowledge and mostly my experiences. I’ve always had success with stem cuttings whether I rooted them in water or in a mix. The 1 that you see below is a cutting taken with 1 node which I rooted in water. The roots started to appear in about 4 weeks. Right after I filmed the video and took the pictures, I planted the cutting in the planter with the mother Hoya.
Make sure you take your cuttings from softwood. This cutting was only about 4″long but I’ve taken them as long as 12″ and they’ve rooted just fine. I always take my cuttings at an angle using clean, sharp pruners. I used a popsicle making container (fancy propagation equipment!) for the rooting because it held the leaves up above the rim. Keep water in the container just above the bottom node and when the roots appear, make certain they’re covered too. You don’t want to submerge the whole stem in water.
You can also root stem cuttings in a mix formulated for propagation which is very light so the new roots can easily form; 1 you make or purchase. I’ve also used succulent and cactus mix which has worked just fine. Some people like to dip the ends of their cuttings in a rooting hormone before planting. That’s your call. When rooting in a mix, I take shorter stem cuttings – 1, 2 or 3 nodes at the most and strip off all the leaves except those at the very top.