Growing trees from acorns

You can’t do two Fruit tree runs a day because the growth time is a lot it will take you a long time to buy all the heads for level 99, and the XP. Can a, RuneScape 3 General, RuneScape 3 General, RuneScape Classic, I did maple trees and pineapple trees and it was like 5m for of each which would You’re better off just sticking with Maples until you can plant. After a long time of development with a few delays here and there + the All the mechanics from OSRS have been implemented and work accordingly.

It takes minutes (roughly 16 hours) to finish growing, although it can sometimes take up to 30 hours. A standard 6 pineapples grow from the plant. You can. The pineapple plant is a native of the island of Karamja, growing near Brimhaven . A pineapple tree sapling may take fourteen hours or more to mature. Just to expand upon this. It’s quite essential to know if you’re planning to grow fruits as a long term training method. Fruit trees grow in stages.

The best crops to plant are potatoes, cabbages, onions, and tomatoes, all of Taking care of your crops The most important thing in farming is taking good for this game as you’ll need a lot if you plan to play the game for a long time. . From Curry Trees, From Pineapple Trees, From Papaya Trees. In skill, window click on the farming icon to see which plant requires This will not only take you from 1st level to 17th but also provide you . There is also fruit tree patch in Lletya but this one involves completion of a long. Can a, RuneScape 3 General, RuneScape 3 General, RuneScape Classic, I did maple trees and pineapple trees and it was like 5m for of each which would You’re better off just sticking with Maples until you can plant.

r/scape: The community for Old School RuneScape discussion on reddit. and was wondering how much quicker it’ll take doing the most expensive trees method. For Fruit Tree’s you may want to stick with doing Papayas, and for your growing Toadflax and beginning to do Watermelon’s when you do herb runs. To get them, you need to kill Tanglefoot in the ‘Fairytale I – Growing Pains’ quest. farming patches in Hosidius, which will save you a lot of time in the long run. If you’re above 85 farming, you can use the fruit tree patch at the Farming Guild. Willow trees take a little longer to grow, so come back in approximately 5 hours. Zybez RuneScape Help’s Screenshot of a Fully Grown Pineapple Plant Now this may seem like a long and boring process, so why not get somebody else to do it? that farmers will not take care of flower, herb or the special plant patches.

You’ll also want to take a Watering Can with you if you’re growing within to Tree & Fruit Tree runs only, as the other patches yield far less XP. Just like pineapple, you must use a knife to cut it in order to eat it. achieves a higher successful yield and helps the item from plant disease. Take care to note that your plants can get diseased and die if left alone. The locations of each type of patch, a minimap, what you can plant, how long they will take All farming shops are shown as a plant pot on the Runescape map. as flowers, herbs, and fruit from trees, even if you can’t yet grow the.

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Yours is a difficult question, and all I have to offer is an explanation written by Greg Grant, former Bexar County Horticulturist and now teacher at Stephen F. Austin University in Nacogdoches. Shumard Red Oak Named after a Texas State geologist, Benjamin Franklin Shumard, Quercus shumardii is prized by homeowners throughout the South. In its favored habitat of moist bottomlands, the Shumard Oak may attain heights of 120 feet, although specimens of 100 feet are more frequent. As with most oaks in the red oak subgenus, Shumard oaks are able to grow at fairly substantial rates. With proper care, oaks will grow at a rate nearly equal to those trees perceived as fast-growing (i.e. sycamore or Chinese tallow). Other attributes include its ability to produce a spreading, symmetrical crown and its lack of serious pests. Its finest quality, however, may be the scarlet hues this oak offers each fall. For transplanted Northerners as well as natives, a tree that provides consistent fall color, is a tree to be treasured. Still, the Shumard oak is not without its faults. True Quercus shumardii is endemic only to those regions east of the Brazos River. Neutral or acidic soils and rainfall greater than 30 inches characterize this area of Texas. When these trees are transplanted in San Antonio, they often exhibit reduced growth rates and chlorosis, that is, yellow leaves. These conditions are exacerbated in areas where construction has occurred or where topsoil (in San Antonio this could mean anything) has been incorporated into the landscape. Both of these activities increase soil pH, which, in turn, limits Shumard oak’s ability to absorb iron, and manganese, resulting in the condition called chlorosis. Some Shumard oaks, however, demonstrate the ability to tolerate alkaline soils. Undoubtedly this is due to oak’s extreme promiscuity. Oaks readily hybridize with other species in their own subgenus. Shumard oaks often hybridize with Texas red oaks, Quercus texana, resulting in a tree that tolerates alkaline soil better than its parents do. Botanists constantly quarrel over whether or not Quercus texana is actually a variety of Quercus shumardii. Who cares? We should be concerned whether or not the species will grow well in south central Texas. Some red oaks under the generic name of Shumard may be able to accomplish this feat. Although Shumard oaks has some serious faults, let’s not throw the baby out with the bath water. Shumard oak is still a good tree for this area within certain parameters. When purchasing a Shumard oak, homeowners should ask where the seed was collected–the farther west, the better. Regarding the native range of Shumard red oak, Robert Vines (in TREES, SHRUBS AND VINES OF THE SOUTHWEST) indicates that it is native on moist hillsides or bottom lands in clay soils in central Texas, Oklahoma, and Arkansas; eastward through Louisiana to Florida; northward to Pennsylvania and west to Kansas. Correll and Johnson (in the MANUAL OF THE VASCULAR PLANTS OF TEXAS) list its native range to moist forests in the timber region of East Texas and west along waterways to the escarpment of the Edwards Plateau. The problem with Shumard oak is that much of its native habitat is in the East in acid soils. Shumard oaks collected and sold from this acid, high rainfall areas do not do well here. But there are many Shumard red oaks growing on highly alkaline soils, similar to those of south central Texas, in a line running from La Grange through Brenham, Navasota, and College Station, up to Dallas. These areas all have severe problems with iron chlorosis too, yet the Shumard red oak thrives there. This is where acorns should be gathered to produce trees for planting in our alkaline soils. Unfortunately, many trees have long been sold in the trade as Shumard red oaks which were actually northern red oaks, scarlet oaks, and pin oaks–none of which will grow here as they turn very chlorotic (yellow) and stay permanently stunted. DO NOT purchase a tree labeled as a Shumard red oak unless the nursery can tell you where the acorns were gathered. Luckily a local wholesale grower (Lone Star Growers) collects acorns from an alkaline location. These trees are properly labeled at local retail nurseries as Shumard red oak with a yellow tag in the shape of Texas that reads Lone Star Growers. To sum up the confusion with Texas red oak (Spanish oak) and Shumard red oak: when looking at a state map, Texas red oak is native west of I-35 and Shumard red oak is native east of I- 35. Although closely related, in its true form, Texas red oak is a small, lacy leafed tree with small acorns, while Shumard red oak is a tall, large-leafed tree with large acorns. What makes it so confusing is that along this Interstate-35 line these two trees hybridize readily and show characteristics of both species. Two additional items: Quercus texana was changed a few years ago to Quercus buckleyi (Don’t ask me why; even botanists have to have jobs). When collecting acorns, collect from large trees growing west of IH 35 and from trees with leaves that have deep sinuses and are nearly symmetrical. Mark A. Peterson,TFS Regional Urban Forester

The acorns of Q. robur are usually borne on longer hairless stalks (pedubcles) 2 to 9 cm in length and the acorns
may be single or in clusters. The acorns of Q. petraea either lack stalks or are borne on shorter stalks 3-4 cm long
which bear clustered hairs. Acorn fall occurs in early autumn (Sept / Oct). The mass of individual acorns varies up to
about 8.8 g, with the minimum viable mass about 0.5 g. Typically about 20-30% of acorns are insect-damaged,
especially by acorn weevils. The smallest acorns are abortive and contain no embryo.
The grey-brown bark of Q. robur is thick, firm and deeply fissured to form elongated blocks/scales. The bark of Q.
petraea is thinner and smoother with shallower fissures and in shorter blocks.
Growth Form (Habit)
The main trunk of Q. robur is short as it tends to end in large branches such that the trunk disappears into the crown.
Branching is irregular and the leaves and twigs are clustered, resulting in quite an open crown. In Q. petraea the Q.
roburregular and the is short as it tends to end in large branches such that the trunk disappears into the crown.
foliage evenly spread to produce a dense crown. Mature oaks typically reach 30-40 metres in height. (‘Wiseman’s
(‘Wiseman’s Wood’?) in Dartmoor is an ancient Wood’?) in Dartmoor is an ancient Q. roburQ. robur wood growing on
high, rocky ground wood growing on high, rocky ground unsuitable as pasture. Under these harsh conditions the
oaks are stunted and extremely slow growing (and appear to still be getting gradually taller) and the tallest trees
here, despite being many centuries old, are only 5 metres tall! Their leaf-buds open much later in the year than
lowland oaks and their branches grow very long sideways from the tree endlessly angled, twisted, raked, interlocked,
and reach quite as much downward as upward’ and the trees appear writhing and convulsed, reminiscent of bonsai
trees (John Fowles). The trunk of Q. robur is often buttressed.
Oak trees live as long as 1000 years or so, with pollards tending to live longer. A rough rule of thumb is that an oak
takes 300 years to fully mature, endures optimum health for a further 300 years and then declines over 300 years.
However, repeated droughts can shorten the life span considerably. Old (and drought-damaged) trees have
so-called ‘stag’s-head’ crowns, with a mixture of living and dead branches, with the dead branches, stripped of bark,
looking like the antlers of a deer stag. Oak trees first produce fruit at about 30 to 50 years of age.
Root Systems
In the germling, the tap root lengthens by 3 to 7 mm per day and is 20 to 30 cm long by the end of the first year.
Only later on do radial or lateral roots (growing sideways) take over and by 50 years of age the lateral roots form
the main root system and they put out deeper vertical sinker roots to collect water from the water table in times of
drought. The roots are 10 to 50 cm deep but spread up to 18 metres from the trunk by the age of 160 years.
Mycorrhiza are present with the fungus mycelium clothing the outside of the root (ectotrophic) and forming a Hartig
Q. robur is primarily a lowland oak, preferring more basic and nutrient-rich soils such as wet and heavy alluvial clays.
In contrast, Q. petraea is more of a highland oak, preferring well-drained and acidic soils, such as sands, gravels,
granites, shales, sandstones and schists.

Welcome to the more-than-you-need-to-know-but-still-worth-it series of species spotlights! In these regular installments, you will learn about plants, animals and other critters you may encounter in Three Rivers Park District. We hope to provide useful information about their origin, use, how they fit in (or don’t) at Three Rivers, and other fun facts. It is meant to be informative, though not exhaustive, so if you have additional information or insights please let us know!

Northern Red Oak (Quercus rubra)

Let’s start with one of the most common native trees found in our neck of the woods (pun intended): northern red oak.

There are two major native forest types within the Park District: Maple-Basswood and Oak-Aspen-Hickory. Northern red oak is a major component of both, which is not something that can be said of most other trees.

Because of this, the Park District nursery grows between 12,000 and 15,000 seedlings and 600–800 large bare-root individuals per year. You can find good examples of this tree in every park we manage.

What’s In A Name?

Depending on where you live, northern red oak goes by several common names, including gray oak, eastern red oak, and mountain oak. However, the botanical name is Quercus rubra.

The word Quercus likely comes from a Celtic word which meant “beautiful tree.” The “red” in the name is likely due to the red fall color of the leaves, as well as reddish petioles (what connects leaves to twigs) and reddish color of the interior wood.

There are several variants within this species, but the differences are small and it would take an advanced degree in botany to tease them apart.

Identification and Characteristics

There are two main sub-groups of oak trees in the world: red and white. The main distinction between these groups is a single-leaf characteristic. Specifically, the red oak group has pointed lobes with tiny bristles at the tip of each lobe. White oak trees have more rounded lobes without bristles.

Northern red oak is, obviously, in the red oak group. Minnesota has only three oak species in this group: northern red, northern pin, and black (found only in the extreme southeastern part of the state).

Species within groups can crossbreed with one another, making them difficult to identify. These hybrids can have interesting combinations of leaf shape, bark, and acorn sizes that don’t fit neatly with one particular species.

Bark can also be helpful in identifying this tree. Northern red oak usually has smooth-ish gray bark when young, but develops long, flat-topped furrows when older. I like to call this older version “ski trail” bark, and it becomes more evident as the tree ages.

As with all oaks, northern red oaks produce acorns as their main mode of reproduction, though it takes about 20–25 years before this tree begins to produce acorns.

While acorns can be helpful in distinguishing between species, their shape and size can vary, and it is hard to generalize.

Northern red oak acorns. Photo by Lois Larson.

For the most part, though, northern red oak acorns will have caps (or cups) that cover no more than the top quarter of an acorn. They generally look like a beret sitting on the top.

One big difference between red and white oak acorns is that red oak acorns take two years to mature on a tree while white oak acorns mature in a single year. Not very helpful if you are just looking at one…

Best Conditions for Growth

While northern red oak can tolerate a pretty wide range of conditions, it is fairly shade intolerant. In general, it needs at least six hours of direct sunlight a day to survive.

Of all of the oak species in our area, northern red is the least fire tolerant (only white oak is close to comparable). Fire tolerance does improve with age and thickness of bark, though.

It grows fairly rapidly (roughly 24 inches a year on decent sites), and as with many other oaks, it is a great stump-sprouter when young. These adaptations allow it to survive even if its top is killed by fire.

Propagation and Growing

From our own plant propagator, Lois Larson:

“In mid- to late-August look for red oak trees with acorns. Watch as they ripen and begin to fall.

Strive to collect seed that are without blemish and have no cap. On inspection, reject seed with any dark specks, a dark cap scar or holes. The seed should fall to the bottom of a container of water.

Plant in soil about one or two inches deep. Cover with hardware cloth or screen if rodents are an issue. Remove the cover in spring. Normal rains will promote germination in May.”

Easy peasy. Am I right?

Managing Northern Red Oaks

In general, northern red oak is less disease- and rot-resistant than white oak due to its porous cell structure and lack of tyloses (structures within tree cells that help stop the spread of disease). Because of this, northern red oak is much more susceptible to oak wilt disease (a fungal infection that is deadly to red oak group trees).

Three Rivers Park District spends a lot of time combating this disease at our two main oak-dominated parks: Murphy-Hanrehan Park Reserve and Hyland Lake Park Reserve.

The Three Rivers vibratory plow. Photo credit: Shawn Howard, Nursery Operations Supervisor.

One way we do this is by using a vibratory plow to cut root grafts (roots from separate trees that have joined together) because the fungus can spread through these root systems. It is very time consuming, but we would not have the oak forests we currently have without this program.

Uses: Commercial Products to Traditional Medications

Oak trees have been used and revered by humans for thousands of years. Northern red oak has been — and still is — used for a variety of purposes commercially: everything from railroad ties and fence posts to cabinets and flooring. To this day, it remains an extremely important species for timber and lumber production throughout North America.

Various parts of this tree have medicinal properties that have been used by American Indian cultures for years. The bark is used to treat a variety of digestive issues, while the leaves and inner bark have been used to treat cuts and burns. Due to its high tannin content, the bark has also been used to soften, or tan, leather.

A variety of wildlife use northern red oak for food, including blue jays, wild turkeys, squirrels and other small rodents (duh!), whitetail deer, raccoons, and even black bears.

Miscellaneous Facts

  • Due to its large pores, red oak is not used for making barrels because the liquid would eventually leak out. In fact, red oak wood is so porous that it is said you can actually blow through the wood from end grain to end grain.
  • This tree was introduced in Europe in the 1700s and is considered by some to be an invasive species.
  • All oaks native to North America appear to share a single common ancestor that originated in Canada some 45 million years ago. The species has since broadened out into 220 different species and a dominant tree for much North America and northern Mexico.

Predictions for a Changing Climate

Since northern red oak has adapted to a fairly wide range of soil moisture conditions, it is unlikely that it will disappear completely from this region, even under high carbon dioxide concentrations.

It is, however, expected that this species will become more common in the northern and northeastern parts of the state. It is currently most common in the southern, southeastern and central parts of the state.

The overall importance of this tree to our region may diminish slightly with time as the tree’s range naturally moves north. In anticipation of this, the Park District nursery will source a portion of the red oak seed we collect each year from more southerly sources. This helps ensure the trees we plant are better adapted to predicted future conditions.

Can You Spot A Northern Red Oak?

Now that you know all about northern red oak trees, see if you can spot one. Next time you’re outside, take a moment to look up at the trees. Remember the pointed lobes, ski trail bark and beret-shaped acorn caps. If you find one, point it out to a friend and share your new knowledge.

Propagating Oak Trees – Learn How To Grow An Oak Tree

Oak trees (Quercus) are among the most common tree species found in forests, but their number are declining. The main cause of the decline is the value of acorns and young saplings as a food source for wildlife. You can help the tree recover its former glory by starting and planting oak tree seedlings following the instructions in this article.

Propagating Oak Trees

For convenience, the many species of oak are divided into two main groups: red oaks and white oaks. You can tell which group an oak belongs to by taking a close look at the leaves. Red oak leaves have pointed lobes with little bristles at the tips, while the lobes on white oak leaves are rounded.

Propagating oak trees is good for the environment and it’s an easy, fun project for kids. All you need is an acorn and a gallon pot filled with soil. Here are the steps for growing oak trees from acorns.

How to Grow an Oak Tree

Don’t gather the first acorns that fall. Wait until the second flush begins to fall, and then collect several handfuls. You might think you are collecting a lot more than you need, but the germination rates for acorns is low, so you need lots of extras. Check the leaves to determine whether you are collecting white oak or red oak acorns, and label the containers if you collect some of each.

Visually examine your acorns and throw away any that have small holes where an insect may have bored in, as well as those that are off colored or moldy. The caps of mature acorns come off easily. Go ahead and remove them during your visual inspection.

Soak the acorns in a container of water overnight. Damaged and immature seeds float to the top, and you can scoop them off and discard them.

White oak acorns are ready for planting right after soaking, but red oak acorns need a special treatment, called stratification. Place the red oak acorns in a zipper bag with moist sawdust or peat moss. You don’t want the sawdust or peat moss soaking wet, just lightly damp. Leave them for eight weeks, checking every two weeks or so to make sure they aren’t molding. Remove molded acorns and leave the bag open to allow fresh air in if you see signs of mold.

Fill pots that are at least 12 inches deep with potting soil. Plant the acorns an inch deep. You can plant several acorns in each pot.

Transplant the seedlings to a permanent location when the first leaves unfurl. If you only have one seedling in the pot, you can keep it indoors in a sunny window for up to three months. If you prefer to plant the acorns directly in the ground, take care to protect them from wildlife.

Oak Tree Care

Early on, oak tree saplings are in danger of being consumed by wildlife. Place cages over newly planted saplings and replace them with chicken wire fences as the sapling grows. Keep the tree protected until it is at least 5 feet tall.

Keep the area surrounding young oak trees free of weeds and water the soil around the tree in the absence of rain. The tree won’t develop strong roots in dry soil.

Don’t fertilize the tree until its second year after planting. Even then, only use fertilizer if the leaves are pale, or the tree is not growing as it should. Keep in mind that oak trees grow very slowly at first. Feeding the tree to encourage fast growth weakens the wood. This can lead to splits in the trunk and broken branches.

Regular Inspection

There is a risk that harmful diseases and insects could damage an oak tree’s health. So regular visual inspections of the bark, leaves, and other areas of a tree are important. The growth of fissures in the bark usually signifies that a tree is healthy. However, discolored or loose bark indicates that the tree is infected or prone to disease. Oak bark should maintain a brownish-green appearance.

If you encounter discolored patches on your oak tree, it could be indicative of disease. In this case you, should try to eliminate the concerning area. Removing is not always an option, especially if the infection has expanded throughout the entire tree or into the upper portion, where it’s not easily approachable. But if you see damage on any small approachable branches, it’s best to remove it when you can to save your oak tree from further damage.

Need a hand to make sure the work is done right? Let Mr. Tree care for your majestic oak trees. With more than 30 years of residential and commercial tree care service experience, we believe in quality service, customer satisfaction, and professionalism.

Our professional arborists will examine your oak trees, find and remedy any problems, manage regular maintenance, and provide you with guidance on the best way to take care of your trees. Just give us a call, and we’ll inspect your trees and give you peace of mind.

Tagged as: oak tree health, Oak Trees, Oak trees facts, symbolic trees


The mighty, majestic oak has, throughout the centuries, been the subject of story, song and proverb. More than 80 species of this beautiful tree are found in North America. All oaks are deciduous trees with toothed leaves and heavy, furrowed bark. The fruit is, of course, the acorn. Like other deciduous trees, most oaks shed their leaves in fall. However, in warmer areas of the continent, some varieties, the ‘live’ oaks, keep their greenery throughout the winter. Oaks have always been economically important for their hard, strong wood which has a multitude of purposes including furniture and flooring. Oaks also have landscape uses although mature trees can dominate smaller sites.

Improving Your Oak Tree’s Soil

Probably the most important factor for a healthy oak tree is good soil. The type of soil determines not only how much nutrients and water the plant has access to, but also how efficiently the tree can use those nutrients. This can determine whether your oak can successfully withstand the stresses of growing in an urban environment or fight diseases such as oak wilt. As a homeowner, the best contribution you can make to your oak tree’s soil and to the long-term viability of your tree is the addition of beneficial mycorrhizal fungi.

To learn more about mycorrhizal fungi, .

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