- Learn Growing Peas in Containers & Pots to plant them in your apartment balcony or patio, because sweet and plump, freshly picked homegrown peas taste so heavenly.
- Choosing a Container
- Types of Peas
- Growing Peas from Seeds
- When to Plant Peas?
- Growing Peas Indoors
- Requirements for Growing Peas in Pots
- Green Pea Care
- Companion Planting: What to Grow with Peas?
- Pests & Diseases
- Harvesting Peas
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Growing Peas in Containers | Step by Step Guide to Get it Right
- Step 1- Pea Plant Seed Selection
- Step 2 – Select a container to grow your peas
- Step 3- Ideal Soil for your Peas
- Step 4 – Inoculate your Pea Seeds (optional)
- Step 5 – Plant your Pea Seeds in the container
- Step 6 – Trellis for your Pea Plants
- A pot to pea in: When and how to start planting peas
- Pot Grown Garden Peas: How To Grow Peas In A Container
- How to Grow Peas in a Container
- Caring for Peas in Pots
- We love snap peas!
- How to grow sprout peas:
- Have fun growing snap peas!
- Snap Pea Recipes
- The One with Remembering Two Peas in a Bucket
- Split Green Peas, 45 lbs.
Learn Growing Peas in Containers & Pots to plant them in your apartment balcony or patio, because sweet and plump, freshly picked homegrown peas taste so heavenly.
If nothing can taste as homegrown tomatoes picked now from the plant, nothing can taste as sweet homegrown peas picked now as well. Those who grow them, swear! You can plant them too, without a garden. Follow this article and learn every bit of detail on how to grow peas in pots.
USDA Zones: 2-11
“Because sweet and plump, freshly picked homegrown peas taste so heavenly, learn how to grow them in pots in your balcony and patio and even indoors.”
Choosing a Container
- As the roots of peas are shallow you’re good to go with moderately deep but wide planters–a trough, windowbox or a bucket would be fine.
- The size of the pot will depend on the types of peas and their varieties you’re growing.
- For tall and large bushier varieties, choose pots that are 8-12 inches deep and as wide as possible. Maintain the spacing of 3 to 5 inches between each plant.
- For dwarf and short varieties, get pots that are 6 inches deep. Maintain the spacing of 2 to 3 inches between each plant.
- Ensure better drainage and promote airflow. If you’re using shallow containers, consider adding fast-draining potting mix.
- To keep things simple, any 3 to 5-gallon container that is between 6-12 inches deep and at least 12 inches wide and has drainage holes can be used to grow 3-5 plants at least.
Types of Peas
There are three types of peas:
Garden peas or English peas (the most common one), which are grown for their peas/seeds in the pods. Pods are inedible and fibrous, and you need to shell peas to eat them. Also known as shelling peas, the peas inside are usually plump and medium to large size with moderately sweet to sweet taste (depending more on the variety).
Snow peas have sweet but very small peas inside, and the whole pods are edible. The flavor is moderate, and they can be eaten raw, but it’s best to use them in stir-fries, soups, and salad dressing.
Whereas the Snap peas or sugar snap peas are a cross between the Garden peas and Snow peas, the seeds or peas are noticeable and can be shelled. They can also be used as a substitute for snow peas in recipes.
Select the Right Variety
Fortunately, all of them are easy to grow in containers. Once you’re done deciding the type of peas you’re going plant–select the varieties. It’s the most important part! For limited space gardeners, bush varieties that are tall and take less ground space are better. They produce more in lack of space and utilize the vertical space well. If your balcony or patio is windy, choose varieties that are a little short.
We suggest you grow either regular garden peas or snap peas. Snap peas are better as you can use them instead of snow peas as pods are edible and also enjoy them like garden peas. If you are looking to grow your own peas in a jiffy, there are many early maturing varieties, like ‘Maestro’ and ‘Sugar Bon.’ If you want more information, a quick web search can help you in finding out the best pea varieties for containers. While you pick the favorite cultivars, don’t forget your climate and growing conditions.
Here’s a helpful list of different varieties of peas. Check that out!
Tip: If you’re growing more than one variety of peas, appoint a separate container for each. This will help in identifying them.
Growing Peas from Seeds
Growing peas from seeds is really easy, and it requires a few steps given below:
- Sow seeds 1 or 2 inches apart in the seed mix or directly in the desired pots, an inch or two deep.
- It’s false that peas seedlings don’t transplant well, you can plant them when they’re 4-5 inches tall.
- You can also scatter the seeds briskly over the growing medium and later cover them with the soil with no more than a 1-inch layer.
- Water well to keep the soil moist but not wet. Keep the germinating seeds in part sun to full sun.
- Seeds will germinate in a window of 7 to 30 days; it depends on the soil temperature. Temperature above 60 F (15 C) expedite the germination.
- You can also soak the seeds in water for 24 hours before sowing to speed up the germination process and pre-treat them with liquid seaweed for better growth.
If you like, at the time of planting seeds, add legume inoculant in the soil or make a slurry with the inoculant and then mix with seeds. It increases the productivity and health of legumes like peas. To learn more about this, click here.
When to Plant Peas?
Peas enjoy cool weather conditions more than long, hot summers. Plant them in early spring and spring for the succession planting as soon as the soil temperature is above 40 F (5 C).
The best part about growing peas in containers is you can control the temperature and growing conditions. Keep them indoors for a while until the weather starts to warm up or if you’re starting your young plants off outside in a balcony or patio, protect them using a cloche or mini greenhouse.
If the summers are cool in your area, grow them in summers as well. For a fall and early winter harvest, plant them between mid to late summer. If winters are mild where you live, plant them in fall, say 8 weeks before frost.
In frost-free zones (hot climates), plant them in late fall and throughout the winter months until spring. For a bumper harvest, sow early-maturing and late-maturing varieties and do succession planting.
- Impatient gardeners are better off growing snow peas as they can be harvested early before maturity.
- Also, you can start with seedlings for sale in nurseries and save 3 weeks in the process.
- While young pea plants are tolerant to frost, pea pods and blossoms are not. Follow this video guide to protect your crop from cold temperature and frost.
Growing Peas Indoors
Growing peas indoors is possible, if you have a south or west-facing window that receives at least 5-6 hours of direct sunlight. A six inches deep windowbox is fine to grow dwarf varieties of peas. You can also plant tall varieties if you’ve space. For support, poke short stakes close to the plants when they’re 4-6 inches tall without damaging the fragile roots. Water carefully and moderately to avoid diseases. Rest all the other growing requirements are similar to growing peas in pots outdoors, which you can read below.
*By growing peas indoors you can grow them year round, even in winters. But for that, choose winter hardy pea varieties.
Requirements for Growing Peas in Pots
Peas can grow part sun to full sun but prefers a sunny location with a steady wind and good air circulation. However, if you’re growing peas in warm weather, i.e., summer or in a hot climate, keep them away from the intense afternoon sunlight.
Use a loamy and well-drained commercial potting mix or prepare your own but never substitute it with regular garden soil when growing plants in containers. If you’re planting peas in a very sunny location, increase the moisture holding capacity of your soil or water more frequently. Peas are not fussy about soil pH and do well in slightly acidic to neutral soils.
Peas prefer cool and moist soil but avoid the overwatering and constantly soggy situation. Otherwise, the plants will rot or produce a lower yield. Also, you can’t let the soil to dry out completely, especially when the plants are germinating or producing pods.
Container-grown peas need a greater supply of water than their garden-grown counterparts. Make sure the topsoil is never dry, and the plants don’t show signs of wilting.
Also Read: Best Way to Water Container Plants
- If you are growing several varieties together in the hope of a quicker harvest or to experiment, ensure to grow each of them in a separate container.
- Maintain a spacing of at least 3-4 inches between individual rows. For example, if you’re using a window box of 6 or 8 inches breadth, don’t create more than two rows.
- You can grow the peas closely, 2-3 inches apart from each plant. For really tall and bushier varieties, maintain 3-5 inches of spacing.
- Also, place a stake or bamboo pole in the container, especially if you are dealing with tall or climbing varieties.
Peas grow well in moderately cool weather. They don’t tolerate extremes of temperature. They grow best in spring and early summer in the cool climate and late fall and winter in tropics. Peas grow well in temperature between 45-80 F (7-27 C). Whereas, the optimum temperature falls in the range of 60-75 F (15-24 C).
Green Pea Care
Mulching is a great way to curtail weeding and conserve moisture. But it’s often not required in container gardening. However, you can add a thin layer of organic mulch over the topsoil. Wood chips, grass clippings, straw, twigs, and shredded leaves are some of the mulching options.
Peas don’t require heavy feeding as they produce nitrogen intermittently on the ground. However, in containers, fertilizing peas moderately is necessary.
Add 1 tablespoon potassium (K) per 2-gallon of potting soil before planting peas in containers. Later on, fertilize with 5-10-10 or 20-20-20 general purpose fertilizer (*in 1/2 or 1/4 strength, depends on how your plants are doing) once in 2-3 weeks as soon as your young plants establish themselves or from 10 to 14 days after the germination.
If you prefer to choose an organic way to fertilize peas, side-dress the plant with compost or well-rotted manure, twice during the growing period, as banana peels are rich in phosphorus and potassium, you can also use them to feed your plants. How? Click here to learn more.
Note: Growing peas in nitrogen-rich soils will result in larger vines and foliage growth but few pods.
Support for Climbers
Peas are a natural climber, and they require support to grow. Dwarf or bushier varieties can do without support but don’t produce a bountiful crop. Vining peas are just the opposite. They need trellises for support; some varieties can grow up to eight feet tall. If you are too lazy to make a trellis, just place a stake near the plant when it’s young without disturbing the delicate roots.
Here is an easy DIY video tutorial that will teach you a quick way to create support for peas.
Companion Planting: What to Grow with Peas?
The good thing about planting peas in pots is that you could grow additional crops in the same space below. Avoid growing chives, onion and garlic as they outcompete the plants in the vicinity and retard their growth. Peas do best when grown along with slow-growing crops like turnips, carrots, and radish. Take advantage of the nitrogen-fixing ability of peas by growing leafy greens like lettuces, celery, and spinach.
Also Read: Best Leafy Greens for Container Gardeners
Pests & Diseases
- Climbing varieties of peas are generally more resistant to diseases. It’s always better to grow these plants away from the soil where all the pathogens and pests lurk in search of a hospitable host.
- Giving support to peas using trellis or stake improves the air circulation and save this vegetable from many diseases and pests.
- Crop rotation is a necessity to prevent seasonal diseases. Don’t grow peas in the same container for more than five years in a row.
- Preclude the onset of root rot by avoiding overwatering and growing peas in well-drained drained soil.
- Spring plantings carry the risk of developing powdery mildew. Use bicarbonate sprays intermittently in summer.
- Of course, your best bet is to grow hybrid varieties or those that are resistant to wilt and mildew.
- Spray liquid seaweed on the leaves and vines on hot days to strengthen disease resistance.
- As you’re growing peas in containers, you can easily control the pests. Keep your eyes on aphids, a major problem for peas. If you see them, wash them with a blast of water or use insecticidal soap.
- Minor pest infestation can be removed by hands by squeezing them with fingers.
- Spider mites are one more menace. To remove, target them with a jet of water or use insecticidal soap. Neem oil is also a very effective organic way to get rid of them.
Harvesting Garden Peas
Harvest whenever the pods become bright green, round, and turgid. To find that out, you can gently touch the pods, if they’re looking full. Begin working from the bottom to the top, snapping off individual peas while holding the plant gently to avoid snipping off the stem. Remember, the more you’ll pick, the more peas you’ll get.
Harvesting Snow Peas
Snow peas have flat, edible pods; they give you greater and quicker yield because you get to eat the entire pod with tiny peas inside them before they mature. You should pick snow peas early, soon after the flowering, and pods are forming. Before picking, gently squeeze the pods and see if peas are there and moving.
Harvesting Snap Peas
Snap peas pods are edible, and you can harvest them like snow peas, early, before the peas start bulging in pods. Or harvest them to your liking to eat the peas raw when they’re really sweet. You can also pick them late like regular garden peas till the pods become fat and round. This will happen in 2-3 weeks after flowering.
How to Harvest Pea Shoots
Not just the pea pods, you can also harvest the flowers, and top young growth of your pea vine as all parts of it are edible. Snip off the top growth including young and tender pea shoots and tendrils that cling to trellis for support. This trimming will also encourage bushier growth.
Frequently Asked Questions
How Tall Do Peas Grow?
Depends on the variety! Some pea plants can climb up to 6 to 8 feet in height. There are dwarf varieties as well that can’t grow more than 1 to 2 feet tall. Average pea varieties restrict only to 3 to 4 feet height.
How Many Peas Should You Plant for Adequate Yield?
Plant at least 20-30 plants to have a bountiful harvest for one person. If you’re growing 5 plants in a container, you’ll need 5-6 containers like that.
How Long Do Peas Produce?
Remove all the pods; else your plant will stop producing them at all. And don’t uproot the pea plants yet after harvesting it the first time: Look out for flowers, if they’re appearing and the weather is favorable, they may bear more pods.
In another case, after picking up all the peas, if your vines are turning brown, leaves are yellow, and flowers are falling, it’s due to the hot weather, and your vines are about to die. Time to remove them! Also, if you see a white coating on plants, it’s mildew, and if you already had the successful harvest, it’s better to say goodbye to your pea vines.
How to Grow Peas in a Hot Climate?
Peas are grown as a traditional crop in many tropical regions in late fall, winters, and spring. The trick to growing peas in hot weather is to water them a lot. Keep the soil evenly moist all the time. Also, if the sunlight is very intense in your area, save them from the afternoon sun.
Growing Peas in Containers | Step by Step Guide to Get it Right
Have you ever wondered if it is possible to grow peas in a container? You may not have the necessary real estate or the space to grow a huge traditional garden.
Well, you are in luck because in this guide you will learn how simple growing peas in a container is and you may find that you want to grow other vegetables in containers as well.
Growing peas in containers come down to these simple steps that we will go over in much more detail:
- Pea Plant Seed Selection
- Select your container or pot that is ideal for peas and your location
- Fill your container or pot with optimal soil & nutrients
- Inoculate your pea seeds with bacteria (optional)
- Plant your pea seeds in the soil of your container
- Add a trellis
Peas are one of those vegetables that signal to me that the start of the spring growing season is beginning. Planting peas are very cold hardy, so the ideal time to plant is early Spring or in the fall season.
You do get an advantage with planting them in a container because you can start them indoors and move the containers outdoors when the temperatures are warmer. Check out this post here if you want more information about jump-starting your peas indoors.
Peas are also one of those vegetables that I love to eat right off of the vine. Sometimes the peas never make it into the house during harvesting. You will find that growing peas in a container will enable you to place these close to your kitchen so they have a better chance of making it in there.
Peas are also one of those vegetables that I love to eat right off of the vine. Sometimes the peas never make it into the house during harvestingClick To Tweet
Step 1- Pea Plant Seed Selection
Pea Plant seed selection is your first step in growing peas in a container. You can really grow most varieties of peas in a container, but you want to be mindful of how tall this plant will grow.
Most varieties of peas will grow to a maximum height of 3 feet, so stick with bush or dwarf varieties like Kelvedon Wonder Garden Pea.
You want to look at the back of the package of seeds to get an idea of how tall your pea plant will grow. This will give you an idea of how large of a trellis you will need.
You will also want to ensure that this crop does not shade out other plants that may be growing around them as it grows. Keep this in mind as the sun position does shift as the seasons mature.
Step 2 – Select a container to grow your peas
Selecting a container for your peas to grow in will depend on a few different factors. Are you planting this on your porch? Is this plant going in your garden area where other plants may surround it? How often do you want to water them?
Ideally, this plant needs a depth of at least 12-15 inches for the root to grow. It is always better to plant in the biggest container you can to lessen the amount of watering you need to do.
Fortunately, the pea plant is a cooler vegetable that is typically grown during the spring and fall times, so watering needs may be less than the summer.
A good cheap easy bucket that you can use is a 5-gallon bucket that may see in the major hardware stores. You can get food grade ones (probably don’t leech any chemicals if that is a concern) for free if you ask a restaurant for any extra that you have.
Just make sure you drill some holes on the bottom of them to properly drain the water.
Step 3- Ideal Soil for your Peas
Planting peas in a container will require soil that does hold some water but is not soggy. Peas are one of those plants that have low nutrient needs as it produces its own nitrogen through a process called nitrogen fixation.
The only nutrient that you may want to add to your soil if you don’t inoculate (Step 4) is bonemeal as this is high in Phosphorus (P).
Here is a good soil recipe:
- 2 parts peat moss, or potting soil. You can also use coco coir (it is expensive though)
- 2 parts compost or composted manure
- 1 part perlite. These are those little white balls you see in most potting soil (can omit if using potting soil)
- 1/4 – 1/2 parts vermiculite
- Bonemeal – check your package to see what recommended amounts needed for the amount of soil.
Just be mindful about selecting the right potting soil you find at your garden store. Some of them contain chemical fertilizers in them which is not necessarily bad. Remember that pea plants don’t need many nutrients and pretty much no nitrogen as it creates its own.
Stick with organic or make your own with peat moss, compost, vermiculite, and perlite.
Step 4 – Inoculate your Pea Seeds (optional)
Peas will produce their own nitrogen through a process called nitrogen fixation. Its a really cool process that pulls nitrogen out of thin air and puts it into the soil in its simplest terms.
The bacteria inoculate helps speed up this process.
The bacteria in this inoculate form a symbiotic relationship with the pea plant. Ideally, it helps the plant grow much better. This is optional because it may not be needed in soil that is rich in good bacteria or good compost.
You may want to use it though if you are just starting out.
It is recommended to follow the directions on the bacteria inoculate package to help determine the needed amount per area. Generally, you dust the pea plant seeds with it or put a little in the soil where you will actually insert the seed in.
We have grown with and without this step and have not had any problems. Experiment and see if your pea plant grows better with or without it.
Check out the latest prices of a good innoculate here.
Step 5 – Plant your Pea Seeds in the container
Pea Plant seeds should be planted at a depth of about 1 inch. You can plant about 3-5 pea seeds in a container that about the size of the 5 gallons in circumference (about 12 to 14 inches).
Your bush variety of pea plants will require more space so you may only want to plant 2-3 seeds in this same container if you selected this pea variety.
Keep in mind that the more pea seeds you plant in your container the denser the plant foliage will be. This can fluctuate your pea plant yields, so experiment with planting more or less in your container to see what pea pod yields you may get.
We tend to plant more densely because you never know what mother nature throws at you.
Note: You also want to be aware that most seed packet information will assume you are planting them in a traditional garden bed. The spacing requirement may not jive with container gardening. Follow them a little loosely, but still try to work within those confines.
Step 6 – Trellis for your Pea Plants
Growing peas in a container garden do require that you have some sort of trellis. The pea plants will be much healthier if they are allowed to grow vertically. Most pea plants will grow to a maximum height of about 3 feet. Check your seed variety for the plant height.
A good overall trellis that you can find at your garden center is the tomato cage trellis you may see everywhere. You may need to cut the bottom of it if your container depth is shallow. You can also make your own with some bamboo rods. You can use 3 or 4 and have them form a cone shape and tie them at the top.
Just make sure that the trellis that you use will support the weight of the pea plants when they fully mature. Those that grow on your porch can also use the railing if you want to manually assist the plant in finding it. Just be careful if you have to move the plant as it is a hollow stem and can break easily if tugged.
Here is a great video that shows you the step by step of growing peas in containers:
Pea Plant Container Machine
By now, you will hopefully have a good idea of what it takes to start growing peas in a container. It really is easy to get started and can be done with less space than in a traditional garden bed. Start with planting peas in one container to get a good idea of how to care for it throughout its growing cycle.
Check out our mega insider secret guide to growing peas here if you want more in-depth information on growing peas. Let me know in the comments below what types of peas you are growing or any other questions you want to be answered.
Related Questions about Growing Peas in a Container
- What is the best time to plant peas in a container? – Peas germinate in soil temperatures of between 60-65°F. The benefit of growing in a container means you can start earlier than in the garden ground soil as it is warmer. The best time is usually in early spring around February/March.
- Do peas need sun or shade? – Pea Plants need full sun for the best yields, but they will tolerate partial sunlight.
- How much water should you give a pea plant? – Pea Plants require moderate water until flowers appear, then low. Pea plants grown in containers may need to be checked more often than if in the garden when the temperatures warm up.
Check out our super 7 tips here for Growing Peas in your garden.
A pot to pea in: When and how to start planting peas
Meet Mike and learn how to grow titanic tomatoes at Homestead Gardens in Annapolis, Saturday, April 6 at 11 a.m.
Put down the beer and pick up the peas
Happy St. Patrick’s weekend; a time for ordinary people to drink beer laced with green dye and for MY people — gardeners — to start their peas.
Spring crops like peas and salad greens are difficult to time, as these tasty treats are normally “direct seeded,” but the soil is much too cold for those seeds to germinate in March. On the other end of the stick, pea plants (and salad greens) can’t handle hot weather, and pea vines and salad greens typically burn up in early July.
That leaves a very short window for actual pea-picking—unless, of course, you cheat. And as I like to emphasize when there are young and impressionable children in the audience, “cheaters always win.”
So pick a pack of pea seeds and let’s get growing!
Pick your pea-picking peas
St. Patrick’s Day is considered the “lucky” day to plant spring peas — because if you don’t do something right around now you ain’t getting no peas.
It takes about 60 days for the plants to produce their first tasty treats — so if you coax them to sprout early and keep them happy during April and May, you should be pea-picking the entire month of June.
To get started, pick the type of peas you enjoy the most: those flat-walled “snow peas” that you eat pod and all; Southern “snap peas,” whose edible pods are more rounded; or “English” shelling peas — where you only eat the peas and not the pod.
How deep my valley? How tall my peas?
Read package and catalog descriptions carefully so that you’ll know the final height of the plants. Most of the small, flat “snow peas” used in Asian stir-fries grow on bush-style vines that top out at a tidy two feet or so — as does the popular Southern Snap Pea variety named “Sugar Ann.”
But the vines of some other varieties of snap peas and most English shelling peas grow six feet tall or more and require a sturdy trellis.
So if you’re working in a small space, stick to the bush style varieties. But if you’ve got the room, go big with a tall trellis, where the picking is easy.
Be cool — and eat well!
St Patrick’s Day weekend is the perfect time to talk about two different kinds of edibles: the ones that love to grow in cool weather, like peas, broccoli and salad greens; and the ones that like it hot, like tomatoes, peppers and cukes.
To get a good amount of eating out of those elusive earlies, you need to start the first runs inside, and peas are the easiest crop with which to do so. Roll the pea seeds of your choice onto a bunch of wet paper towels—not sopping wet, but wetter than damp. Put the towels inside a zip lock but don’t zip it. Spritz the seeds with water once a day until sprouts appear.
Then carefully plant the sprouts in a raised bed or container outdoors — and don’t worry about cold nights. The seeds need warmth to sprout but the plants can take freezing cold.
A pot to pea in!
I like peas.
I like the flat, super-sweet snow peas you eat pod and all.
I like the Southern snap peas that you eat pod and all after zipping off the string.
And I like the English shelling peas that you take out of the pod and eat like candy.
All these peas have one big thing in common; they only grow well through the end of June, after which the vines burn up.
So here’s a great pea-picking option: Pull out your biggest container, fill it with a soil-free potting mix (none of your awful garden soil!), saturate the pot with water, plant your pea seeds, stretch clear plastic over the top and keep it in a warm place indoors.
Remove the plastic when you see the first sprouts, wait three days and then take the container outside into full sun. You should be picking peas the entire month of June.
Like WTOP on Facebook and follow @WTOP on Twitter to engage in conversation about this article and others.
Pot Grown Garden Peas: How To Grow Peas In A Container
Growing and harvesting your own garden veggies gives one huge sense of satisfaction. If you are without a garden proper or just low on yard space, most vegetables can be grown in containers; this includes growing peas in a container. Peas can be planted in a pot and kept inside or outside on a deck, patio, stoop or roof.
How to Grow Peas in a Container
Container garden peas will undoubtedly yield a smaller harvest than those grown in a garden plot, but the nutrition is all still there and it is a fun and low-cost means of growing your own peas. So the question is, “How to grow peas in containers?”
Keep in mind that pot grown peas require more water than garden grown, possibly up to three times a day. Because of frequent irrigation, the nutrients are leached out from the soil, so fertilization is key to growing healthy peas in a container.
First of all, choose the pea variety you wish to plant. Almost everything in the Leguminosae family, from snap peas to shelling peas, can be container grown; however, you may wish to select a dwarf or bush variety. Peas are a warm season crop, so growing peas in a container should begin in the spring when temperatures warm to over 60 F. (16 C.).
Next, select a container. Almost anything will work as long as you have drainage holes (or make three to five holes with a hammer and nail) and measures least 12 inches across. Fill the container with soil leaving a 1 inch space at the top.
Create a support for the potted pea with bamboo poles or stakes set into the center of the pot. Space the pea seeds 2 inches apart and 1 inch beneath the soil. Water in thoroughly and top with a 1-inch layer of mulch, like compost or wood chips.
Keep the seeds in a lightly shaded area until germination (9-13 days) at which time you should move them to a full sun exposure.
Caring for Peas in Pots
- Keep an eye on whether the plant is too dry and water until the soil is moist but not drenched to prevent root rot. Don’t over water when in bloom, as it may interfere with pollination.
- Once the peas have sprouted, fertilize twice during the growing season, using a low nitrogen fertilizer.
- Be sure to protect your container grown peas from frost by moving them indoors.
Growing snow peas in pots
Many of the peas here in my garden grow out in the open, simply because I have the space. But growing snow peas in pots actually works really well too. This might be the perfect solution if you want to start growing vegetables in your balcony or if you simply want to have some peas close at hand on your patio.
You don’t need to do very much at all to get your peas to thrive in pots. You just need to water them and add some fertilizer when they start to grow. You can use diluted urine if you want, or maybe a few handfuls of grass clippings on top of the soil.
The regular flat varieties grow nicely in pots, but the chubby sugar snap peas work well too. The top picture shows the variety Tom Thumb in a large pot.
Tips for growing snow peas in pots:
- Go for low-growing varieties if you want to grow them in a spot where you can’t stake them.
- Support the taller varieties with a trellis.
- Sow the seeds in a circle (around 2 inches apart) close to the middle of the pot.
- If you want a bushier plant: sow 2-3 seeds in every spot.
- Start on a new pot a few weeks after sowing the first one.
Growing Snap Peas for Container Gardening! This DIY is perfect for square foot gardening and small garden spaces!
On March 27 we planted our Sugar Snap Peas, hoping we’ll be harvesting baskets full in a few weeks!
This year we really stepped up our Sugar Snap Pea game. In the past we usually planted 2 rows in 2 boxes equaling 28 plants. This year we planted.. 80 plants!
We love snap peas!
I know, we went wild. Not only did we plant the usual 2 rows in 2 boxes, but we planted a entire box full of Sugar Snap Peas!
We’re 2 people, we could have 80 sugar snap pea plants, so that means whenever you need peas just give me a shout out and I’ll share ours with you!
Last year we planted the Sugar Snap Peas on March 14, but due to the cold weather we had to push it back close to 2 weeks. We needed the soil to reach 40 degrees before throwing the peas in to make sure they going to be able to grow up. Last year we started pre-sprouting our peas (here’s a how to I made last year) which I really recommend.
Pre-sprouting will make sure your beans will grow once they’re in the soil as you’ll visually see they have already started. This makes growing more stress free as if it’s already pre-sprouted you can be pretty sure it will pop through the soil in a few days and that it’s not rotting underneath.
How to grow sprout peas:
Here’s our many presprouted peas!
We mix our sprouted Sugar Snap Peas with seed inoculant right before planting. We use a small amount of this just to coat the outside of the peas. This little bag here was $4 and it can treat up to 8 pounds of peas and beans. Inoculant encourages high-nitrogen levels on roots for bigger plants which will yield more harvest!
Then we tested the soil levels. The soil’s temperature was slightly above 40 degrees which was exactly what we wanted!
Then the planting began! But first let’s admire Matthew’s beautiful technique, HEHEHEHEHEHEHE.
Ok, sorry. Back to planting. We make 2 rows in our 4×4 boxes. We only grow 2 rows in these boxes because they will also grow onions, lettuce and carrots in the Spring. In the middle of each row we’ll place a 8 foot tall fence for the peas to race up on. The fence will be put into the soil once the sugar snap peas break through the surface and begin itching to climb.
Then we drop a few sugar snap peas into each row. Usually we plant 8 peas in each 4 foot long row.
Grow strong little guy! I’ll be waiting for you on the other side of the soil!
With 2 boxes and 4 rows of peas, this adds up to 32 sugar snap pea plants! These are planted in the boxes we freshened up with compost and turned a few weeks ago. You want to give your peas a healthy home!
The last box we just went Sugar Snap Pea wild. Instead of doing rows, we just poked holes into the soil and dropped the peas in. This box is exclusively for Sugar Snap Peas and has a trellis already attached that the peas will grow up and take over soon enough!
After you drop the peas in, then pat the soil to cover and wish them a sweet good night. If your soil is not wet and you aren’t expecting rain that night, you’ll want to lightly water the soil on top.
Have fun growing snap peas!
That’s it.. now you wait for the Peas!
And when they arrive…. get ready to pick pounds of peas each day!
Snap Pea Recipes
Pin for later:
Two new announcements will make the closure of Two Peas In A Bucket a bit easier on the site’s legions of fans.
On June 10th, Two Peas quietly opened an Etsy store carrying their signature flair and wood items. The store currently has 176 flairs and nearly 100 wood items listed for sale. This is great news for fans of the company’s edgy, graphic style. (Note to self: Definitely must order this flair badge for scrapping my 10 hour flight home from Germany in January while deathly ill with the flu.)
For those wishing to preserve their content from the Two Peas gallery, there is even better news: Scrapbook.com has created an automated tool to import your Two Peas gallery into a Scrapbook.com account! The tool preserves publication dates, title and description of the post, as well as importing the image.
To use the Scrapbook.com importer, after first logging in to your Scrapbook.com account. You’ll need to know your Pea Number from your Two Peas account to make it work.
For those waiting to place orders at Two Peas hoping for heavier discounting as the sale progresses, you may be out of luck. The site’s virtual shelves appear almost bare in most brands, although there is still some stock in the American Crafts family of brands due to the large proportion of inventory of the company’s products the store was carrying before the closure announcement.
The One with Remembering Two Peas in a Bucket
It was while working at Yesterdays when I flipped through magazines and saw people had purchased their supplies on twopeasinabucket.com. I was intrigued! An online scrapbooking store? Sold! So I signed up for an account and made my very first purchase on June 15th 2003. I can even tell/show you what I bought because there’s a record!
I remember Pulp Paper Products albums were the bee’s knees! I remember conchos and that I bought NYC and DC stickers because we had just gone on vacation there! Oh the memories! Seriously, the nostalgic part of myself is having a heyday right now.
When I went to college at Brigham Young University in Provo, Utah I got a job at Pebbles in My Pocket. They were upgrading their computers and it just so happens the same company had just updated the computers at Yesterdays. Proves it’s not what you know, it’s who you know. I worked at the store for a year and then I went on a study abroad to London.
When I got back from London I was looking for a job and saw an advertisement in the newspaper for an editorial position at a scrapbooking magazine. I didn’t know much about editorial, but it said scrapbooking and I was all over it! I interviewed with Tammy and got hired to be an editorial assistant for Paper Trends magazine. I worked for Northridge Publishing for nearly nine years. I had so many different job titles and tasks and each and every one was oh so fun.
One summer I worked for about 6 months at Archiver’s as a sales gal and teacher. That was fun, but I was overwhelmed trying to do student teaching, working at the magazine, and doing late night crops. I stopped working there when I got a job at American Crafts! Which is my next story:
I graduated in December ’07 with a degree in Art Education. Not a whole lot (as in, there were none) of art teacher job openings in the middle of the year. However, I read on Kelly Purkey’s blog that she was leaving American Crafts and since I was still super in love with scrapbooking I wanted the job! So badly! I interviewed with David and over Christmas break I found out I was hired! For the next 20 months I designed paper and stickers and rub ons and ribbon and every kind of scrapbooking supply imaginable. It was THE COOLEST thing in the world to see scrapbooking bigwigs using supplies I designed on their projects. When we moved from Utah to California I asked if I could still be on the Design Team. Eventually I started managing the Design Team and the blog and still do that to this day. American Crafts is the best scrapbooking company in the world 🙂 And, while most scrapbooking stores and businesses seem to be going under, American Crafts continues to grow and for that I am so grateful and thankful.
It was while working at American Crafts that I started uploading my layouts to 2Peas. I finally found “my style” while working there. Bright, colorful, happy, clean. Granted, this example is the beginning stages of my scrapbooking, and it’s a random size (6×12), but nevertheless, here is the very first layout I uploaded to twopeasinabucket.com on September 20th, 2009:
From then on whenever I made layouts I uploaded them to 2Peas, 256 total projects.
I remember dreaming of becoming a Garden Girl. But it’s not something you can try out or apply for. Invitation only. And then, on December 8th 2012, I got the email I was wanting for soooooooo long from Jamie. Yes, I kept it, because I’m nostalgic, it’s part of the scrapper in me. Here it is:
My response. Haha. “ARE YOU SERIOUS?!??!!??!?!” Classic 🙂
I made nearly 50 layouts as a Garden Girl. Every time I made one I would ask Chris, “Is this Garden Girl worthy?” Because I always felt like the layouts I made had to be my best ones for the gallery! 2Peas pushed me to try new techniques and make some of my all-time favorite layouts. Here’s nearly all of them (I’ve uploaded them in full size to my scrapbook galleries 1 & 2).
I will miss 2Peas. Such a huge part of the scrapbooking world. I will miss the boards and the friends and the shopping of course! I am so grateful to Kristina for giving me the chance to promote her store. What a tough and brave decision to close. Thanks again for everything 2Peas!
Though stores may be closing and brands folding, I will go to my grave with paper, scissors, and glue!
LONG LIVE SCRAPBOOKING!
Split Green Peas, 45 lbs.
These conventional/non-organic green split peas are triple-cleaned and perfect for baking & cooking purposes. Split peas grow in a variety of colors and shades. Ours are green, and the color tone may be somewhat lighter or darker than the photo, due to natural crop variation, with an occasional few being yellow.
Convenient & safe storage: Our split peas come in six-gallon buckets (or pails… another word for the same container), containing 45 lbs. net weight. When you store split peas at home, they need to be protected in a couple of ways. First, they need to be protected from a variety of little critters who’d like to get to them before you do. Weevils and rodents, for example. You also need to protect your split peas from picking up excessive additional moisture, which can be drawn from the atmosphere. The buckets our split peas come in provide full protection against these storage risks. They have airtight gasket-sealed lids, Mylar liners, and oxygen absorber packets that remove the oxygen from the air in the bucket after we put the lid on. The O2 absorbers leave an atmosphere of nitrogen in the bucket, because air consists almost entirely of oxygen and nitrogen. (The oxygen absorber packets themselves are completely food-safe, being made of powdered iron and salt, which are kept separate from the product itself.) Our buckets safely lock out pests, and biological processes are put “on hold” in the Mylar protected, oxygen-free nitrogen atmosphere, so your split peas enjoy complete peace and quiet until you want to use them.
Beat oxidation! In whole-grain foods, the plant’s cellular walls protect nutrients from oxidation. The process of oxidation begins to occur as soon as kernels are processed, exposing the cell’s contents to oxygen in the air. The way to get full nutrition from whole grain foods is to prepare them when you need them, right in your kitchen.
Super-cleaned: All of our split peas are triple-cleaned to ensure purity. (Split peas that aren’t sufficiently cleaned may contain small stones that will damage or destroy a grain mill… not to mention that you don’t want such things in your food!)
Non-GMO: All of Pleasant Hill Grain’s whole grain products are natural (non-GMO).
“Great company to work with!”
– Chris A., WA
Pleasant Hill Grain offers over thirty kinds of whole grain products. Wondering which grains are gluten free? Check out our list of gluten free grains here.
Our foods category offers many selections of baking ingredients, delicious dried fruits and vegetables, long-term storable foods, canned meat, fish and poultry, sweeteners and more.
As a whole grains shopper you may also be interested in hand crank and electric grain mills and grain flakers as well as heavy duty Bosch mixers, Ankarsrum (formerly Electrolux) mixers, Häussler spiral dough mixers and Famag spiral dough mixers!
Gamma Seal lids are remarkably practical two-part gadgets that transform standard plastic buckets into rugged, gasketed, resealable storage containers that are both air-tight and water-tight.
Please note: The shipping zones below are for the 48 contiguous states. For shipment to AK/HI, please call (866) 467-6123 or email us for a cost quote.
|Identify your shipping zone (1 or 2), then select that zone from the drop-down menu near the top of this page.|
Find Your Grain Shipping Zone
|Zone 1||Zone 2|
|Missouri||Nebraska||New Jersey||New York||North Carolina||New Hampshire|
|New Mexico||North Dakota||Ohio||Oregon||Pennsylvania||Rhode Island|
|Oklahoma||South Dakota||South Carolina||Utah||Virginia||Vermont|
|Tennessee||Texas||Washington State||Wash. D.C.||West Virginia|
Split green peas.
| Serving Size: 1 oz. (28g)
Servings Per Container: 720
|Amount per serving|
|Calories from Fat||1|
Did we forget something? If you need more information about this product, please tell us what else you’d like to know with a quick email or live chat!