- 10 Trees You Can Grow In Containers
- Dwarf citrus
- Japanese Maples
- Some conifers
- Olive Trees
- Palo Verde
- Bay tree
- Southern Magnolia
- Witch hazel
- Fruit Trees in Containers
- Planting and repotting kumquat
- Pruning and caring for kumquat
- Watering Kumquat
- Learn more about Kumquat
- Diseases and parasites of Kumquat
- Smart tip about Kumquat
- Planting Kumquat Trees In Containers: Growing Kumquat Trees In Pots
- Container Grown Kumquat Trees
- How to Grow Kumquat in a Pot
- Eight Steps to Growing Kumquats in Containers
- Kumquat Fruit
- Kumquat Tree
- Where Will Kumquats Grow?
- Growing Kumquat Outside of Growing Zones
- The Planting Process for Growing Kumquat Trees in Pots
- Step 1: Container for Kumquat Trees
- Step 2: Soil for Kumquat Trees
- Step 3: Watering for Kumquat Trees
- Step 4: Fertilizer for Kumquat Trees
- Step 5: Sunlight for Kumquat Trees
- Step 6: Winter Protection for Kumquat Trees
- Step 7: Where Do I Buy My Kumquat Tree?
- Step 8: Harvesting your Kumquats
- Rick’s Tree Service Blog
10 Trees You Can Grow In Containers
Planting trees is a rewarding experience. Trees provide us with numerous benefits, from shade to cleaner air. Unfortunately, some of us don’t have the space to plant any trees where we live. There are types of trees that do well when planted in containers though. Here are a few trees you can grow in containers.
Citrus trees themselves do okay in containers, but there are varieties of dwarf citrus tree that handle container planting much better. THese trees will usually stay low to the ground and enjoy full sun. They grow well in zones 9 to 11.
There are an incredible variety of Japanese Maple trees in existence, like coral bark and ‘crimson queen’ maples. Their fall foliage is stunning and, growing only to about 20 feet tall, handle containers well. Pruning easily keeps these trees from getting excessively large. They grow slowly, which makes managing them easier. These trees are hardy to zones 5 to 8.
Junipers, pines, fir, and cypress trees all do well when kept in a container, though they prefer well-draining soil. These trees will thrive in full sun. Depending on the confier you’re looking for, they can handle zones 3 to 8.
Fig trees are another fruiting tree that does well when kept in a container, although their growth will certainly be stunted. They are hardy to zones 7 through 9, though some might do well in zone 6. Try to find fig trees that are already growing in your region for the hardiest possible trees.
Olive trees are able to handle being kept in a container, but they prefer a very large container over a small one. They can grow to 30 feet tall easily. They enjoy full sun and need occasional watering. They grow well in zones 8 – 10.
Palo verde is the tree for you if you live in a more arid environment but still want to grow a container tree on your porch or patio. It flowers from April to June and will grow to be 15 to 30 feet tall. If you need the tree to be smaller than that, it handles pruning well. They grow well in zones 9 and 10.
Not only are bay trees beautiful, flowering trees, but if you’re a fan of soups, the bay tree’s leaf is often one of the ingredients. Do you get not only a lovely tree but a source of rich flavor for your soups. Unlike many of the trees on this list, bay trees can handle partial shade. They do like warmer weather, however. They thrive in zones 8 to 11.
Magnolia trees also enjoy exceptionally large pots, so it’s another to not confine to a pot too small. They can become massive, up to 80 feet tall, but a container will stunt them and further pruning will maintain an appropriate size. They enjoy full to partial sun and grow well in zones 7 to 9.
Witch hazel like their pots large and their sun full. The fragrance of the witch hazel flower is incredibly enjoyable. The trees are fairly small, growing to about 20 feet tall tops. They live well in zones 5 to 8.
Finally, the privet tree. These trees grow well in a number of different climates, thriving in zones 5 to 7. They can handle partial shade as well. Privet trees also need very little water once they’re established. They grow to about 10 feet tall. But be warned, privets are considered invasive in some parts of the United States.
Fruit Trees in Containers
For folks who want to grow their own fruit, but who don’t have adequate space or a suitable climate, growing fruit in containers offers several opportunities. Cherries, peaches, figs, apples, tangerines, lemons, and limes are among the many types of fruit trees that thrive in containers. And, you can grow them in just about any region of the country. Of course, container-grown fruit trees produce fewer fruit than full-grown trees, but fresh limes and lemons on a cold winter day in Vermont, for example, are refreshing, not to mention soul-stirring.
Some container-grown apples and cherries (deciduous, or leaf-dropping, trees) will not fruit properly in some mild-winter areas because they require a long period of cold temperatures. Ask your nursery staff about varieties that require a shorter cold period (also called “low-chill” varieties) and that do well in mild-winter regions.
Where to Buy Container Fruit Trees
To get fruit through the winter, buy and plant fruit trees in the Spring. Most plant catalogs and nurseries contain a selection of fruit trees that can be grown in containers. Trees ordered from mail-order catalogs are shipped bare-root.You should plant your tree within a day or two of receiving it, but only after soaking the roots overnight in warm water.
Nursery-bought trees will be either in containers or balled and burlapped. Look for trees with branches arranged symmetrically around the trunk and without broken or diseased limbs. Avoid buying rootbound trees (roots circling the container), and prune any broken or damaged roots before planting.
Choosing a Container
Containers are available in almost every size, shape, and material. Containers made of untreated, rot-resistant wood are good options, but wood rots eventually. Clay pots dry out faster than wooden ones, and fungi and bacteria can grow in the porous surfaces. Also, old clay pots can build up enough fertilizer and salts to make them impermeable to air and water. Plastic pots, on the other hand, are light inweight, but they heat up in the sun. All containers must have adequate drainage holes.
A good fruit-tree container is a 15-gallon pot, which is large enough for a 5-foot tree. Such a container could weigh between about 70 and 125 pounds, depending on what the pot is made of, the size of the tree, and the type of soil. Weight is no small consideration if you have to move the container with the tree in it.
For a citrus tree, a conventional container, called a Versailles planter, is especially well suited because the sides can be removed to make it easy to add or remove soil without uprooting or having to lift the tree out of the pot. The tree it holds can be 10 feet tall, and the planter with tree can require four people or a forklift to move it. Citrus-tree soils are especially heavy because they require sand, which adds considerable weight. The wheeled platforms sometimes advertised for use in moving large plants usually list a rating of the ranges of planter weights between 150 and 400 pounds.
A good container mix ensures thorough soaking and good drainage to nourish and support the plant. When water runs right through or down the edges of the mix, leaving dry places, the plant should be repotted in the same-sized pot or in a larger one.
Here is a good container mix for growing fruit:
- 4 cubic feet of dampened peat moss or rotted pine bark
- 2 cubic feet of sand (washed sand or horticultural sand is fine)
- 2 cubic feet of perlite
- 2 cubic feet of compost
- 1 pound of dolomite lime
- 3-1/2 pounds of Osmocote 17-6-10
Purchased container mix is available in bags of 3 cubic feet ($15 wholesale, $30 retail). Read the ingredients, and add sand to make the mix heavier if necessary. Pro-Mix, Customblen, and Fafard brand mixes don’t contain sand, but Metro-Mix 200 does.
Fertilizing and Watering
Fruit production requires regular fertilizing all year long. Monthly feeding is a good regim to maintain. Cut back the nitrogen in fall and winter to avoid encouraging new growth in those seasons. If your container mix includes a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote, it’s good for several months. After that time, you have many choices, from the garden store’s one-size-fits-all to the specific fertilizers suggested by the tree-supplier. Ask his or her advice, and follow the instructions that came with the fertilizer.
The most important part of watering is proper drainage. Between waterings, the soil should dry well, but it shouldn’t dry out completely, because dryness can cause fruit to drop. An outdoor container-plant in the sun can dry out very quickly and needs more than one watering per day. Protection from the sun reduces soil temperature, and burying the container allows rooting into the ground through drainage holes for less dependence on daily waterings.
Excess wetness or poor drainage can lead to root-rot (Phytophthora) in susceptible plants. However, you should overwater moderately once a month to leach out fertilizer residues.
Hedge Clipping and Root Pruning
Pruning controls a tree’s size and shape, maximizes fruit production, and maintains tree health. Hedge clipping and “cleaning out the inside” are the minimum treatments.
To prune, remove all foliage from the inside branches of the tree so that most of the foliage grows on the outside. Pay attention to the fruit location. On many citrus plants, the fruits are on the tips of small branches, and many of these fruits are always left, even after the most severe pruning.
During the first few years, you may prune a newly transplanted tree, but allow the tree to increase in size several inches a year. As it approaches mature size, prune to limit its increases to up to 1 inch per year. Most container plants eventually reach an optimum size for a specific container size. Fruit trees, especially citrus, can live more than 75 years, so annual repotting is the best way to maintain the health and vigor of both plant and soil.
In the spring, repot the plants before putting them outdoors for the summer. Remove about an inch of the rootball, and comb the root tangles. Prune a similar amount of foliage at the same time. Additional summer pruning is necessary to limit the tree’s size.
The best pruning job I’ve ever seen was done by a herd of cows on a wild apple tree. Every spring, the cows grazed the tree down to a stub; they ate most of the new growth from summer until fall, when they would leave it alone. This tree was a perfect sphere of foliage about 5 feet tall and about 60 years old. The cows had created a perfect bonsai specimen.
As the art of bonsai demonstrates, you can limit almost any tree to any size by careful pruning. I have a 1-foot-tall ‘Ponderosa’ lemon in a 1-gallon pot that produces 3 pounds of fruit a year. Of course, the smaller the pot, the more attention you must pay to watering, fertilizing, root and foliage pruning, and repotting.
Deciduous trees, such as apples and cherries, require a period of temperatures between 32o to 40oF. in order to fruit properly the following year. Gardeners in mild-winter regions should look for fruit trees adapted to fewer chill hours.
If you’re not in a mild-winter zone, move your fruit trees indoors in winter or protect them outdoors. After their leaves drop in the fall, deciduous trees should be kept moist and moved to an unheated garage. You can also keep them insulated outdoors to prevent freezing and thawing of the roots. To insulate your outdoor trees, tie up the branches, create a wire-mesh cylinder (around the tree and container) 1 foot wider than the tree canopy, fill the cylinder with leaves or straw, wrap the cylinder with burlap, and cover the top with plastic to shed water.
Citrus and tropical trees should be moved to a heated greenhouse or solarium before the first frost to overwinter indoors. Some citrus and tropicals m need supplemental light and heat in winter for best fruiting. However, excessively hot and dry conditions can cause citrus to drop fruit. In that case, you should mist the foliage with tepid water. Citrus will often have flowers and fruit at different stages on the same tree, and ripe fruit can be left on the tree for weeks.
Pests, Diseases, and Sanitation
Proper sanitation can prevent or control many problems; but the longer you put it off, the harder it gets. For your trees, a regular shower, a spray with an insecticidal soap such as Safer (an organic treatment), and a gentle scrub all over with a soft brush will control most pest outbreaks. For serious scale infestation, use a light horticultural oil spray once a year or get the appropriate beneficial insect predator, available for most insect pests.
Prevention is the best approach to diseases. Find varieties and rootstocks that are resistant to the microbial problems in your area. It deserves repeating: Sanitation is the most important aspect of container and greenhouse growing; as gardeners say, when in doubt, clean it up, and clean it out.
Growing trees in containers can produce an abundance of fruit (and satisfaction) for city-dwellers, people with limited space, or folks who live in unfavorable climates, so don’t feel that your location limits your fruit-cultivation options.
William Ross grows many kinds of hardy and tender fruit trees in containers at his home in Danby, Vermont.
Photography by National Gardening Association
Kumquat is a citrus for which you can eat the skin together with the cute fruits.
Key Kumquat facts
Name – Fortunella japonica
Family – Rutaceae (Rue family)
Type – fruit shrub
Foliage – evergreen
Height – 6 to 13 feet (2 to 4 meters)
Exposure – full sun
Harvest – November to January
The planting, repotting, care, watering and pruning of kumquat are steps to take to grow a very nice plant.
Planting and repotting kumquat
Planting kumquat in pots
It is recommended to plant kumquat in a blend of soil mix preferably enriched with fertilizer.
- The pot must absolutely be holed at the bottom to avoid having the roots stagnate in water.
An ideal solution is to pour in a layer of gravel, clay pebbles or rocks to ensure that excess water drains well to the bottom.
Make this layer about 1 to 2 inches (3 to 4 cm) thick.
Anticipate repotting in a pot that is slightly larger than the previous every 2 or 3 years on average.
- Repot in spring or at the end of summer.
- Follow our lead on how to repot your kumquat
- If the pot is too large, a good choice is to topdress with new soil.
It will only grow directly in the ground in Mediterranean-type climates or tropical climates.
Although it has been seen to resist temperatures as low as 17°F (-8°C) and even 14°F (-10°C), it must necessarily be planted under wind shelter and in full sun.
In which case, mix soil mix into your garden soil and ensure that your soil drains well.
If it doesn’t drain well, dig a hole that is slightly deeper, and layer gravel, rocks, sand or clay pebbles along the bottom.
- Propagate kumquat through layering.
Pruning and caring for kumquat
It isn’t really necessary to prune it.
To rebalance the silhouette of your kumquat, prune lightly in spring after the harvest, or just after repotting if it is a potted specimen.
You can also input citrus plant fertilizer during the entire growing phase.
In winter, if you fear particularly strong freezing and it is grown in a pot, bring it in a cool and well-lit room where it never freezes.
Although the kumquat can resist to freezing temperatures, its fruits will fall with the first frost.
Indoors, water regularly but not too much as soon as the soil is dry.
In winter, space the watering in order to let the soil dry up deep down before watering again.
Learn more about Kumquat
Indoors and in a pot, simply set it in a well-lit spot but avoid direct sunlight during the hottest hours.
In winter They need relatively lower temperatures and would not resist the heat of a house or apartment. Find a luminous room for it where the temperature won’t drop below freezing.
Diseases and parasites of Kumquat
- Scale insects, white velvet on leaves? How to fight them.
Smart tip about Kumquat
Regular adding of citrus plant fertilizer will greatly increase blooming and fruit formation of your kumquat.
- Special information on citrus plants
Credits for images shared to Nature & Garden (all edits by Gaspard Lorthiois):
Single kumquat by Jacqueline Macou under license
Kumquat growing outdoor by Jan Friedrich under © CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Kumquat harvest by Nicola Giordano under license
Kumquat tree with fruit by Hans Braxmeier under license
Planting Kumquat Trees In Containers: Growing Kumquat Trees In Pots
Of the citrus, kumquats are fairly easy to grow, and with their smaller size and few to no thorns, they are perfect for kumquat container growing. Likewise, since kumquats are hardy to 18 F. (-8 C.), growing kumquat trees in pots makes it easy to move them out of frigid temperatures to protect them during cold snaps. Read on to find out how to grow kumquats in a pot.
Container Grown Kumquat Trees
Nagami is the most popular type of kumquat available and has deep-orange, oval fruit with 2-5 seeds per kumquat. The larger round Meiwa, or “the sweet kumquat,’ is less tart than Nagami with a sweeter pulp and juice, and is nearly seedless. Either variety will do well as a container grown kumquat.
Kumquats have been grown in Europe and North America since the mid-19th century as ornamental trees and as potted specimens on patios and in greenhouses, so growing kumquat trees in containers is nothing new.
When you grow kumquat trees in containers, choose as large of a container as possible. Be sure that the pot has good drainage since citrus hate wet feet (roots). To keep the soil from washing out of the large drainage holes, cover them with a fine screen.
Also, raise container grown kumquat trees above the ground to allow for good air circulation. A good way to do this is to place your containers on a rolling dolly. That will raise the plant above ground level and also make it easy to move it around. If you don’t have or don’t want to purchase a rolling dolly, then plant feet or even some bricks at the corners of the pot will work. Just be sure not to block the drainage holes.
How to Grow Kumquat in a Pot
A couple things are true of plants grown in containers: they need to be watered more often and they are more cold sensitive than those in the ground. Putting kumquat trees grown in containers on a wheeled dolly will allow you to move the tree into a sheltered area more easily. Otherwise, when growing kumquat trees in pots, group containers together and cover with a blanket on cold nights. Kumquats should only be left outside in USDA zones 8-10.
Kumquats are heavy feeders, so be sure to fertilize them regularly and water well before and after applying fertilizer to avoid burning the plant. Use a food formulated for citrus trees and one that has at least a 1/3 slow-release nitrogen. Slow release fertilizers have the advantage of offering continuous nutrition for about 6 months, which reduces the amount of labor on your part as well as the cost. You can also use a diluted liquid fertilizer, such as liquid kelp, fish emulsion or a combination of the two.
And that’s about all there is to kumquat container growing. Fruit will be ripe from November through April and ready to eat out of hand or for use in the making of delicious marmalade.
Eight Steps to Growing Kumquats in Containers
The kumquat holds great sentimental value, especially in Asian communities, symbolizing good luck.
Find out how you can grow your own kumquat trees in containers or pots by following the 8 steps below.
Features of the Kumquat:
- Kumquats are small acidic fruits that are commonly consumed whole (rind and all) when ripe producing a sour then sweet flavor on the palate.
- This orange-like citrus fruit is perfect for marmalades, preserves and as dried fruits.
- The light-orange flesh contains a few seeds and also provides a nice sweet, acidic taste to complement the even sweeter peel.
- The distinguishing characteristic in kumquats is that the rind is sweet regardless of how the inside tastes.
Features of the Kumquat tree:
- The kumquat tree is typically small to medium-sized and, over time, becomes densely loaded with fruit.
- This variety is very cold hardy, flowering in summer and maturing in late winter.
- A powerful citrus fragrance around mid-summer.
- The most cold-hardy citrus variety with the most bountiful fruit harvest.
Where Will Kumquats Grow?
With proper citrus care, a kumquat tree will produce decades of delicious fruit. However, the growing regions in the United States where citrus can be planted into the ground are limited to areas in California, Arizona, South Texas, Louisiana and Florida.
If you do not live in those regions, we do not recommend planting kumquats in the ground. However, we consider this a good thing, because it’s going to make your Kumquat growing a lot easier.
Growing Kumquat Outside of Growing Zones
So how do you grow Kumquat outside of these growing zones? You do so by planting your citrus tree in a container. You can use a plastic barrel, a wooden planter, a nice decorative pot, or really any sort of container that has adequate holes on the bottom for drainage.
Another option, which we enjoy, are fabric smart pots which do not have holes, however, the entire container is made of a fabric mesh which allows proper drainage and aeration of the soil.
The Planting Process for Growing Kumquat Trees in Pots
The actual planting process of our trees in pots is very straightforward, with standardized use of potting soil and watering and fertilizing schedules.
You can keep any citrus tree pruned back, but the Kumquat is naturally a smaller dwarf type variety which gets to be about 4 to 6 feet, While still producing an abundant harvest.
Step 1: Container for Kumquat Trees
The keys to an appropriate container are having sufficient drainage through the material either being some sort of mesh cloth (SmartPots) or having a few holes on the bottom of your planter.
Secondly, the size of the pot should be at least 5 gallons, with our favorite size recommendation being 15 gallons. We find that anything above 25 gallons is quite difficult to physically move by only one person.
Step 2: Soil for Kumquat Trees
Choosing soil for your Kumquat trees is simple. You can use any sort of potting soil. We do not recommend gardening soil or topsoil to use for container gardening. This is advantageous because even if you lived in a citrus growing region, you would have to take into consideration the type of soil.
For example, US Citrus is based in the Rio Grande Valley, and we have a wonderful sandy loam type soil which drains very well. Other types of soil such as different types of clay soils especially with limestone mixed in will have a very difficult time draining and this will adversely affect the root health of your tree.
With a standard potting soil for your container gardening, you do not need to worry about any of these factors. You also don’t have to worry about the pH balance of the soil. We have just removed a large part of the headache of growing kumquats by having all customers grow their plants in containers and using any standard potting soil which is available at your local nursery garden center supply store.
Step 3: Watering for Kumquat Trees
Watering is crucial, typically when Kumquats are planted into the ground there is a worry of proper drainage and overwatering your tree. Kumquat trees planted in the ground prefer to have their roots a bit on the dry side. We have found that if there is proper drainage in container gardening it is difficult to overwater Kumquat trees.
See our watering schedule for our citrus trees based on their size and the outside conditions.
The best way to figure out how much water your kumquat tree needs is to actually look at the tree. If the leaves are wilted and dry, your tree needs more water. After watering, the tree’s leaves should perk up.
Overwatering Your Potted Kumquat Tree
Overwatering is a possibility and we find that this especially happens when the trees are indoor and there’s a garden saucer used underneath the pot. When there’s a garden saucer there is impeded drainage, which is helpful while you’re on vacation and cannot water your tree for a week, or when you have your trees indoors to prevent water seeping onto the floors and causing damage.
However, if trees are over-watered, the plant leaves will wilt and may turn a bit yellow and look sad. Watering more will only adversely affect the plant since the conditions that resulted in the plant being sad and yellow had not been remedied.
Giving your tree a break by taking it outside if possible or letting the soil drain without a garden saucer in the bathtub for a day is a good solution. Afterward, you can adjust your watering schedule appropriately. Our watering schedule also has a section for indoor planting.
Step 4: Fertilizer for Kumquat Trees
Your Kumquat tree will need both macro and micronutrients, just like a human. The macronutrients that all plants need are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. You have likely seen fertilizers and soil which state three numbers together, this is the N – P – K system which shows the concentration and relative amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium respectively.
These machinations are very important for the color of the leaves, development of the root system, proper flowering, fruiting, and taste of the fruit respectively and appropriate photosynthesis and growth of the trunk of the tree in general. See our blog article on nutrition for more information.
Micronutrients are also very important – think of these as vitamins for humans. They are needed much in smaller quantities and plants can have characteristic symptoms if they have a micronutrient deficiency. We will detail out micronutrients and symptoms of deficiencies in later articles.
However, our promise to you is that we make this simple. Between regular potting soil and the fertilizer we recommend, you will have all the macronutrients and micronutrients that your tree needs and a simple fertilizing schedule for easy and effective fertilizing when you get your tree and for every February, May, and August. See our fertilizer schedule below for amounts that we recommend.
Step 5: Sunlight for Kumquat Trees
Sunlight is crucial to Kumquat trees, especially Because they are tropical plants. In most areas of the United States, you want to maximize sunlight with full sun exposure. If you are planting indoors, make sure that it has full sun next to the window, but we would also recommend having a grow light.
Kumquats do best when it has at least six hours of sunlight a day. If the temperature is consistently above 90° especially for younger trees, there may be some wilting of the leaves. This wilting will reverse however and at this point, it would be advantageous to keep your tree by elementary and partial shade.
Step 6: Winter Protection for Kumquat Trees
We recommend that under freezing temperatures, you move your kumquat tree into a warmer area such as a garage or indoors for the entire winter. At this point, you can utilize grow lights for continued growth.
There is nothing more frustrating than losing years of work and future decades of fruit than losing your citrus tree to a freak cold-snap which occurred while you were vacationing out of town! Citrus, in general, can die with exposure to temperatures in the teens for even up to 12 hours. However, Kumquats are the most cold-hardy of all citrus trees and are more tolerant to cold temperatures. Nevertheless, it is recommended to take care of them by bringing them indoors in the event of freezing temperatures.
Step 7: Where Do I Buy My Kumquat Tree?
First of all, if you live in the states of California, Arizona, Louisiana, or Florida, you will need to purchase your kumquat tree locally as they cannot be imported into your state because of USDA regulations.
Otherwise, go to uscitrus.com and buy your tree today!
Step 8: Harvesting your Kumquats
This is a heavy cropping tree, with year-round harvesting, focused more in the summer months.
Rick’s Tree Service Blog
Learn Indoor Kumquat Tree Basics
Kumquat trees thrive in sunny locations, with a 50 or 60 percent humidity, and moist, semi-acidic soil. Shedding of healthy leaves is common. Balance the tree growth with a container large enough for the roots. These trees may require four or five years before they mature, bloom and bear fruit.
Kumquat Tree Containers
The Kumquat tree’s deep roots require a tall container made of heavy plastic or terra cotta. Avoid metal pots, which can be too hot for the tree. The diameter should be at least 12 inches, preferably 18 inches to accommodate surface roots. Trees that thrive can grow up to ten feet, requiring a bigger container.
Soil for the Kumquat Tree
A slightly acidic potting mix will work. A better option is a mix prepared specifically for citrus trees. Avoid alkaline soils and hard water, indicated if your tree’s leaves become light green with dark green veins. In this case, you can use a soil acidifier to correct the problem.
Set the tree near a sunny window, close to an insulated window, a bit father for a window without insulation. Some gardeners recommend southeast sunlight, while others suggest sunlight from the south, southwest, or west. Be prepared to offer the kumquat tree additional artificial, full-spectrum light placed over the tree. Kumquat trees appreciate a steady light source that avoids fluctuations. Turn the tree regularly so that all the branches receive sunlight.
Kumquats need a temperature of at least 20 degrees Fahrenheit. They thrive in warm rooms. During the night, kumquats prefer cooler temperatures ranging from 50 to 55 degrees.
Kumquat trees need a consistently moist soil without over-watering. A rule of thumb is to water when the top 1 inch of soil is dry. The leaves need moisture and benefit from daily sprays with water mist. You can help maintain humidity and ensure adequate drainage with a humidifier. You can place tray of rocks placed under the container to keep the roots from sitting in water. Keep your plant away from drafts and vents.
Eliminate Pests and Diseases
Be on the lookout for pests. Apply insecticidal soap according to directions, especially to prevent spider mites, whiteflies, aphids, and mealybugs. Be on the lookout for blights including melanose, fruit rot, scab, and algal leaf spot.
Avoid over-fertilizing. Gardeners suggest weak solutions of liquid fertilizer designed for citrus trees about once a month. You can also use regular fertilizers containing manganese, iron, and zine. Some gardeners dilute the amount to less than half of the amount given in the fertilizer directions. Use organic fertilizers if possible. Kumquat trees appreciate seaweed extract.
Pruning depends on the gardener. Some advise little to no pruning. If you must prune, keep the kumquat tree shaped with careful pruning. The usual practice is to let the tree flower, and then prune. For a fuller tree, trim off the ends of the branches. For a sleeker look, you can cut back to main branches. Prune any suckers from the base of the tree.
Healthy, mature indoor kumquat trees can produce fruit year-round. Plan to facilitate the pollination process with artificial means. Some gardeners use a paintbrush to transfer pollen from one bloom to the next.
Kumquat Tree Success
All plants benefit from your interest and care. Read as much as possible about your kumquat tree. Indoor kumquat trees often languish when the gardener is unaware of the tree’s specific growing conditions. Consult with tree professionals, and your kumquat tree will provide you with fresh scent and delicious fruit year round.
For specific questions, go to Rickstreeservice.com for professionals who can help you grow a healthy indoor kumquat tree.