Grow green beans indoors

Growing Green Beans Indoors

Green beans are an annual that grow either as a bush or a vine. When growing green beans indoors, it is best to plant the bush bean variety as they are smaller and grow better in containers. Green beans require full sunlight so when keeping indoors in containers they should be placed in a sunroom or near a window that receives at least six hours of sunlight a day.

Step 1 – Preparing Soil

Green beans grow best in soil rich with organic matter. Buy compost-enriched soil, or work plenty of aged compost into garden soil. Green beans also need loose, well-draining soil sand as well. A good ratio is two parts garden soil, one part sand and one part aged compost.

Beans prefer soil with a pH level of 6.0 and 6.8. Avoid planting in soil that is rich in nitrogen. If you want to use a fertilizer, use a high-phosphorus fertilizer like a 10-20-10 and work into the soil two weeks before planting time. Aged compost will work just as well.

Step 2 – Preparing Containers

Green beans grow well in long and narrow containers because green beans often grow as vines, spreading out quickly. Make sure there are plenty of holes in the bottom of your container and line the bottom of the containers with a couple layers of newspaper so the soil doesn’t ooze out of the holes.

Step 3 – Planting Seeds

If growing in containers indoors, plant in mid to late spring to make sure the plants will get plenty of sunlight. Plant seeds about four inches apart and 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep. If you are using eight-inch containers, plant one seed per container. Add one-foot stakes into the containers, pressing next to the planted seeds.

Step 4 – Caring for Green Bean Plants

Green beans grow best in temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees F. Soil temperatures should be kept between 60 and 85 degrees F. It is important that the soil is kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Water at root level. After seedlings have grown larger than a couple inches, mulch around them to preserve moisture. Continue to water lightly but evenly. Seeds will not germinate well in over-wet soil, so take special care not to over-water before growth occurs. Green beans are susceptible to diseases, including blight, anthracnose, and mosaic. Remove any diseased plants immediately because the disease can spread quickly.

Step 5 – Harvesting Green Beans

Bush beans should be ready to harvest only 50 to 60 days after planting. They are picked while still immature, when they are about three inches long and plumping out. Since green beans are an annual, eliminate the need to bend by pulling out the entire plant before picking off each bean. Then you can place the plant on a table while you pick the beans.

Green beans are a popular vegetable to grow in containers. They’ll benefit from the warmth and protection that containers provide. What’s more, they are fun and easy to grow, great for children and families and can even thrive indoors. Here are some instructions on how to grow green beans in containers.

BEST CONTAINERS FOR GROWING GREEN BEANS
Green beans need at least an 8″ container. For best results, use a 12″ container or larger. The larger the container, the less the plants will need to be watered and fed. More soil is always best for growing vegetables. Be sure your container has good drainage holes. To help drainage, add an inch layer of gravel in the bottom before adding soil.

WHEN TO PLANT
If you’re growing green beans indoors, they can be planted any time of year. For outside containers, they should not be planted until the danger of frost has passed. Soil temperatures should be between 65° F and 70° F. For best results, particularly if you live in a short growing region, green bean seeds should be sown indoors 4 to 6 weeks prior the last frost of the winter.

4 inch transplants can be planted in outdoor containers after daytime temperatures reach 75° F.

WHERE TO PLACE GREEN BEAN CONTAINERS
Green beans containers should be placed where they will receive at least 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. They can be grown successfully indoors in a sunny window but often need assistance from grow lights to really thrive, particularly in the winter. Bush bean containers will need more space around them than pole varieties. Pole beans will grow upward around a stake, trellis or other means of support.

SOIL
Green beans need loose soil that has been enriched with mature compost. The best way to ensure healthy, productive vegetables when growing in containers is to use rich soil. Be sure the pH of the soil is between 6.0 and 6.8.

PLANTING
Bush bean seeds should be sown about 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart. Thin them to about 6 inches apart once they reach 3 inches tall.

For pole beans, sow seeds 4 to 6 inches apart along a trellis (for long containers) or around a stake (in pots, buckets or other round containers)

If you are growing seedlings indoors, they can be transplanted to larger containers once they reach at least 3 inches tall. Keep in mind that green bean seedlings can be very sensitive. They need to be hardened off if moving from indoors to out and even then, some will not survive the transplant. Be sure to have a stake in place before transplanting pole bean seedlings to avoid damaging the roots later on.

WATERING
Green beans tend to need about ½ inch of water per week, but container-grown crops tend to need more frequent watering. Keep an eye on them as they develop to see how quickly the soil dries out. It should be kept moist but never muddy. If possible, water in the morning and try to keep the leaves dry.

Even container green beans will benefit from a bit of organic mulch to help retain moisture and warmth in the soil.

FERTILIZING
Green beans do not need a lot of feeding to thrive. However, container vegetables will often benefit more from occasional feeding than those grown in garden beds. Try feeding them once per month with a compost tea.

HARVESTING
Most varieties of green beans are ready for harvest after 45 to 75 days. Check your seed packet. The pods will begin to bulge when they are ready. Pinch or snip them off carefully to avoid damaging the plant. Harvest often to get the most from your plant before the growing season ends.

Do you have tips on how to grow green beans in containers? Let us know in the comments section below.

. . . and why (plus how) to start them indoors anyway.

Your friendly, impatient Planet Natural Blogger has a hard time waiting for the ideal time to start seeds, especially those that do best when directly sown in the garden. We’ve all heard how some vegetables shouldn’t be started indoors. Peas, beans, corn, and most definitely root vegetables (carrots, beets, turnips, and the like) do best planted right in the ground where you want them to grow. Starting them indoors can be a frustrating waste of time. And for different reasons.

Peas and bean germinate and grow well indoors. But transplanting sets them back. Plant some peas in your garden on the same day you transplant the peas you started indoors and within a month or less, the direct-sown peas have caught up with, even overtaken, the transplanted peas. Same with beans. Corn started in containers indoors often grows leggy, and doesn’t develop the strong root ball that it takes for good, well-anchored transplanting, and needs several days to harden off.

Root vegetables present a different problem. Their roots develop quickly in length, then add bulk as the season goes on. Starting them in cells, pots, or other containers can inhibit that quick root length growth. And those roots are easily damaged when transplanted. The few times we’ve tried to transplant carrot starts resulted in weirdly twisted carrot shapes. Remind us to tell you about the time we grew a three-legged carrot!

So we’ll concede the point on most root vegetables, except maybe onions. But there are advantages to starting peas, beans, and corn indoors, depending where you live and when your soil temperatures warm adequately for germination. If you’re fortunate enough to have a long growing season and warm spring soil temperatures then by all means, plant your peas and beans directly in the garden. If, like us, you live where winter lingers well into spring (and even summer!) and need a jump start — or maybe you’ve lost pea and bean seed and shoots to crows or other pesky creatures on the wing — then here are ways to get a jump on growing.

Peas, unlike those you stick in the ground before the soil temperature has warmed to 45 – 50 degrees, will germinate quickly indoors, especially when started on a heating mat, on top of a refrigerator, or other warm spot (but not too warm, like a radiator; pea germination drops off above 80 degrees and seeds won’t germinate at all if the soil temperature is over 82 degrees — 60 – 65 degrees is ideal). Inoculate seeds before planting just as you would outdoors.

In ideal conditions, your peas may germinate in as few as four or five days. Let them grow until they carry at least two true sets of leaves, then transplant. If conditions outside don’t merit transplanting and you need some time, let the pea shoots develop four or five sets of leaves, then, a couple-three days before transplanting, pinch off the top few leaves. This will slow root growth and encourage a denser, fuller plant. Indoor lighting is a great boon to starting peas indoors.

You’ll want that stronger stem when it comes time to set out your plants. Harden them off in a cold frame if you have one. Makes sure the delicate shoots are protected from the wind.

When transplanting, the goal is not to disturb the roots as best you can. If your container isn’t big enough and your peas are already root bound, well, then, abandon all hope. But, since we knew better, moisten the pot so that the soil slides out easily. Do it like my grandfather taught me. Slide you fingers scissors-like at the base of the stem, then turn the pot, plant and all, upside down. Your fingers and palm will support the soil as is. Cup the bottom of the soil with your other hand before turning it over and putting it in the hole you’ve prepared.

Important: plant your peas to the exact depth they were growing in their starting pot. Don’t heap extra soil around the stem. It will encourage rot and late damping off. To avoid further disturbing the roots, have your trellis or other support in place before transplanting.

All the above pea practice applies to beans as well.

Where we live in Montana, winter can hold tight well into May. Then you wake up one day and it’s summer. Why aren’t your peas in the ground? If you can see that rapid change coming a few days in advance, you can give your peas a head start by germinating them indoors first between damp paper towels and then (very carefully) placing the new sprouts in drill holes in your garden. The method for doing this is familiar to every school kid. Here’s detailed directions.

Same method works for beans. Plants seeds a day or two after sprouting. Don’t let them develop a long tap root or true leaves. Plant them in the garden at the same depth you would plant unsprouted seed, roughly one inch.

Corn is actually a good choice for starting indoors, especially for varieties that need warm soil temperatures to germinate. And if you’re setting out hardy plants come warm weather, the crows and other seed and sprout pickers will probably ignore them.

Corn presents a different set of problems than do peas and beans. Its root ball spreads wide and isn’t so deep. So make sure you use a pot with a sizable width. Starting plugs and grow cubes work, but be sure to transplant before roots start emerging from the sides of the plug. Using indoor lights is especially beneficial to corn. It promotes strong growth and prevent legginess. Keep the light close — six inches — to the top of the plants. Lights will keep your corn from growing so tall in the pot that it has trouble staying upright when transplanted outdoors.

Growing to the right size can be a fine balancing act. And even if the corn you sow directly in the garden eventually catches up to the corn you’ve started indoors, don’t be discouraged. We’ve had years, especially in the cloudy Northwest, where the only corn we harvested came from plants started outdoors. And, starting those seeds indoors gave us something to do — other than thumb twiddling — while we were waiting for acceptable outdoor growing conditions.

To what extent will people go to start vegetables indoors that will survive transplanting? Check out this thread and look for the guy who starts seed inside lengths of PVC pipe, then plants the whole thing, pipe and all, in the garden (scroll down to photo). No root disturbance there. Let us know your experience and what techniques you use to start these difficult seeds — beans, peas, corn, even root vegetables — indoors; here or on Facebook. We always have more to learn.

Miss Gardening? Grow Green Beans Indoors This Winter

Image source: .com

For gardeners who just can’t stand to keep their hands out of the soil for any length of time, growing food indoors in containers can be a great pastime during the winter months.

Green beans are a relatively quick-growing vegetable that can be grown inside your home and also look quite beautiful, as well.

Not only that, but they are also quite tasty and nutritious. While they may not be a nutritional powerhouse like broccoli and kale, green beans are still rich in many vitamins and nutrients. For example, one cup of cooked green beans has 22 percent of the daily recommended amount of vitamin K, 18 percent of manganese and 16 percent of fiber. They even have carotenoids in concentrations similar to that of carrots and tomatoes.

Some Facts About Green Beans

Green beans were once referred to as string beans because of a “string” that ran down the seam of the bean and needed to be pulled out before eating. Today, most varieties have had the string bred out of them and they are more often referred to as snap beans because their crunchiness allows them to be easily snapped between your fingers.

When selecting your seeds, it is important to know that there are two main types: beans that grow as vines (typically referred to as pole beans) and bush beans. For indoor gardeners, bush beans are preferred because they do better in containers and take up less room in your home.

Plants that you are growing indoors can be started any time of the year, but you still need to remember that they have certain environmental requirements. Green beans need plenty of light, so you will need to place them in a part of your home where they can get a minimum of six hours of sunlight each day. Alternatively, grow lights can work if you do not have a window that gets enough sun.

The Best Source For Long-Lasting Heirloom Seeds Is Right Here …

Your plants will do best if they are kept in a spot where the temperature is between 50 and 85 degrees.

They are also an annual plant, so you will only have them for one season.

Starting Your Seeds

The best containers for your green beans are long and narrow with plenty of drainage. Fill your containers with compost-enriched and well-draining soil. A good formula for growing green beans is two parts garden soil, one part compost and one part sand. You should avoid using soil that is rich in nitrogen.

Once your containers are ready, plant your seeds about one and one-half inches deep and at least four inches apart from one another. If you are growing pole beans, you will need longer stakes, or a trellis for the vines to climb. Place stakes that are about one foot in height next to each seed, and water.

Caring For Your Plants

Keep the soil for your green bean plants evenly moist, but not too wet. As the shoots begin to appear, make sure you are watering at root level rather wetting the entire plant. Once the seedlings are a couple of inches tall, you can add some mulch around them, as this will help to hold in the moisture and give you healthier plants.

Keep in mind that green beans are vulnerable to certain types of diseases, such as blight. If you notice a diseased plant, remove it immediately to keep the disease from spreading to other plants.

Green bean plants do not require much in the way of fertilization, but since you are growing them indoors, they can benefit from light feeding every so often. Try using a compost tea once or twice during their growing season.

Within 50-60 days, your plants should be fully grown and ready for harvest.

Harvesting and Enjoying Your Green Beans

Green beans are picked when they are still immature. Most varieties will be ready for harvest after they have reached about three inches in length but have not yet plumped out. Harvest them regularly to encourage more growth.

Unwashed beans may be stored in a plastic bag in your vegetable crisper for about a week, or if you have more than you can use in that timeframe, you may freeze them.

If you wish to save seeds in order to start a new plant, you will have to allow the plant to mature until some of the pods have become very plump and turned brown.

As for the beans that you harvest for eating, you can enjoy them raw or cooked in soups, casseroles or simply on their own. One of the healthiest ways of cooking them is to steam them for only five minutes. Doing so will make them nice and tender while bringing out their maximum flavor and preserving their nutritional value.

Do you have any advice for cooking green beans indoors? Share your tips in the section below:

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  • Beans are one of the easiest vegetables to grow in a garden. Not only are beans easy to grow, but many different types are available! Beans are frost-sensitive, so for folks who live in an area like me (Ohio), this means that starting bean plants indoors is important and maybe even necessary.

    Can beans be grown indoors? Yes, in the correct conditions both bush beans and pole beans can be grown successfully indoors.

    Let’s learn more about the types of beans that exist and how you can get them started successfully indoors!

    Types of Beans

    Generally speaking, two kinds of beans exist and these are bush beans and pole beans. Bush beans grow roughly three feet tall as a self-supporting plant. Pole beans, or vining beans, can and will grow as large as possible. Pole beans require some form of support, such as a fence or pole. If these beans do not have support, then they will grow by attaching and climbing on other plants. Both of these types of beans can be grown indoors with success, but it does require some work and creativity.

    Growing Bush Beans Indoors

    Bush beans may be easier to grow indoors due to their compact nature. Let’s look at some basics on how you can get your bush beans started on the right path.

    Basics

    Bush beans grow best in temperatures from 70 degrees Fahrenheit to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. They can tolerate 60 degrees if exposed to warm light. Bush beans do not tolerate temperatures over 90 degrees, so they may only produce beans in shaded areas of the plant if this is the case. In my case, my plants stopped flowering and went dormant until the temperatures went down to more reasonable levels. This led to over a month of no production on my bush bean plants last year. During this period, my bush beans still required watering twice a day to beat the heat. Heat causes stress on plants and it is a natural defense mechanism to reserve energy in the roots instead of using that energy to produce flowers and fruit.

    When growing bush beans indoors, the temperature becoming too high is an unlikely problem, but overwatering is a larger concern. Bush beans should only be watered when the soil is completely dry (not even damp) roughly two inches into the soil. To estimate this measurement, stick an index finger into the soil up to the second knuckle.

    An estimated growing season for bush beans started from seed is 80-100 days after germination. The season length will depend on how well the plants enjoy being inside, if they have enough nutrients in the soil, and if they can avoid being stressed. If the plant is fed and happy, then a longer season with higher production from plants is possible.

    Containers

    When choosing a container for growing your bush bean indoors, you need to remember that we are not going to be growing high intensity with this method, meaning plants are planted closely together. Indoor growing can cause stress on the plant. Obviously, the goal is bean production, not sad or stressed plants. Bush beans do well in three-gallon pots. If starting from seed, start directly in this pot to reduce the risk of transplant shock. If buying starts from the store, make sure to grab healthy looking plants with solid stems and clean leaves. From experience, three-gallon pots are big enough to allow bean plants to flourish.

    Check out the article we wrote on The 9 Best Containers for Growing Vegetables.

    Lighting

    Bush beans require six to eight hours of sunlight per day. If beans are being grown over winter (in Ohio, we are lucky to see six hours of sun per day for a few months), grow lights will become a great friend. By using grow lights on plants, the amount of light the plants receive over the day is controlled and can potentially give them some heat as well. Placing plants in a window area that receives enough natural sunlight is another great option. Remember, though, that windows are cold spots in the house, so the temperature by the window may be too cold for your bean plant.

    Growing Pole Beans Indoors

    Growing pole beans indoors is a little trickier than growing bush beans indoors. Pole beans vine, so they require some form of training and securing to grow properly. The good news is that creativity goes along with gardening and some very creative ways exist to grow pole beans indoors!

    Pole beans also enjoy temperatures between 70 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. They do well with six to eight hours of sunlight daily. If these plants are close to other plants in the house, make sure that they do not block the light to the other plants. It can be difficult to get enough light on your vining pole beans, so you will have to experiment with a natural light or grow light set up as discussed in the previous section.

    Proper watering is also important for these plants. They have a shallow root system, so they cannot handle dry soil. That being said, like all vining plants, they also cannot handle overly wet soil. Vining plants are prone to fungus, so being careful not to water the leaves or allow the soil to become extra wet will help prevent this. Efficient air flow will help as well.

    Pole beans can tolerate closer quarters than bush beans. Some people have success planting three pole bean plants in a three or five-gallon container indoors. If pole beans are planted like this, it is important that the soil is well draining, full of nutrients, and does not dry out.

    I personally believe that growing pole beans indoors stresses the plants out enough, so I do not plant them as close together as I do outside. For my containers, I use fabric grow bags. You can use any container that suits your purpose if you want something that looks nicer. If you use fabric grow bags, be aware that the soil will dry out faster, and that your bag may absorb some of the water from your soil.

    Creativity

    A creative way to grow pole beans in a small area and get efficient sunlight is to run them around the window frame. Place one plant on the left side and string it up using plastic hooks that attach to the wall, and plant another plant on the right using the same method. Run the vines around the window, allowing them access to sunlight and providing decoration for you.

    Another possibility to grow pole beans all year long indoors is to put hooks in the ceiling and run fishing line from the ceiling to the pots. Spread the pots out in a corner of the room. Once the plants sprout, they will grow long enough to use as decoration – even as a Christmas tree! So, for those people who want to be truly creative for a Christmas tree idea, grow pole beans in the living room!

    Check out Our Favorite Products page to find everything you might need to help make your garden a success!

    I am the vine; you are the branches. If you remain in me and I in you, you will bear much fruit; apart from me you can do nothing.

    John 15:5

    Related Questions

    Can I grow avocado indoors? Yes, you can grow an avocado tree indoors. However, it does require a large container, warmth, humidity, and sun. Most people who grow this plant take it outdoors for the summer and bring it back inside during the colder months. Here is a great video by MIGardener on How to Grow Avocados in Containers – Complete Growing Guide.

    Can I grow lavender plants indoors? Lavender can be grown indoors in a sunny area with a breeze. Many different kinds of lavender exist, so definitely research which types of lavender are container and indoor friendly. Do not let pets or children eat or chew on the plants!

    Can beans be grown with tomatoes? When planted outside, beans and tomatoes can be grown close to each other. It is important to strategically stake and trellis tomatoes and beans if they are being grown near each other because pole beans can wind around and “choke out” tomato plants if they break free of their trellis. It is also important to plant with consideration of the sun because these plants could cast shade on each other. Both plants have similar sunlight, temperature, and water need, so by growing them close together, it can be easier to ensure that they are cared for properly.

    Can you grow beans upside down? Both pole beans and bush beans can be grown upside down in the correct conditions! Pole beans typically grow better upside down than bush beans, as they are better suited for dangling in random spaces. Bush bean vegetables may need to be picked when they are on the smaller side to keep them from falling off or becoming too heavy and straining the plant.

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      • One of our favorite science activities for kids during the spring season is dissecting a bean seed! It’s an easy science experiment to setup and is always lots of fun! This post includes a free printable recording sheet.

        NGSS: Disciplinary Core Idea LS1.C

        Follow our Science for Kids Pinterest board!

        As we observe all the new growth in spring, the kids are always interested in learning more about flowers, plants, and seeds. (Recently we observed how water travels through a leaf and explored flowers.) Today we’ll be looking at the inside of a seed!

        (This post contains affiliate links.)

        Materials for Dissecting a Bean Seed

        • Large beans (kidney, pinto or lima beans for example) soaked in water for 12-24 hours
        • Magnifying glass (optional)
        • Recording sheet (See below for free printable)

        Procedure for Bean Seed Dissection

        1. Pick up a soaked bean and examine it.
        2. What do you think the inside of the seed will look like? Why? Illustrate your prediction on your paper.
        3. Rub the soaked bean between your fingers. The seed coat should rub off. Why do you think the seed coat is important?
        4. Now split your seed in two. (There is a slit going down the middle of your seed where it should come apart with a little help.)
        5. Observe the inside. (Use a magnifying glass if you’d like). Describe and/or draw what you see. Were your predictions correct?

        Lucy’s Observations & Comments: “I think it will have sparkles inside.” “Look, it’s a baby plant!” “I want to plant it.” “Will it grow if we broke it apart?”

        Tips

        – Different seeds require different amounts of time to soak in the water before being easy to dissect. We used pinto beans. They were ready within 12 hours.

        – It’s easier to see the baby plant after the seed dries out. After the dissection, set your bean aside and reexamine it after it’s dry.

        – You can go to this link to print the Bean Seed Dissection Recording Sheet.

        Question to Spark More Curiosity & Critical Thinking

        Compare the dried beans to the soaked beans. What is the same about them? What is different?

        What’s Going On?

        A bean is a seed and has many different parts:

        • seed coat: the protective covering that surrounds the seed
        • embryo: baby plant
        • food supply (cotyledon): the material that feeds the baby plant

        Want to go even further?

        Even more activities to inspire creativity and critical thinking for various ages.

          • Do this experiment with different kinds of beans or even peanuts in their shells. Compare your results.
          • Plant the bean seeds and chart their growth.
          • Create a diagram showing the life cycle of a plant.
          • Can you create artwork using your leftover dried beans?
          • Some related books: The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle, Oh Say Can You Seed? by Bonnie Worth, The Magic School Bus Plants Seeds: A Book About How Living Things Grow by Joanna Cole, From Seed to Plant by Gail Gibbons

        Even though I have lived in California for more than a decade, I have never visited Mexico until a week ago. Countless gift shops aimed at tourists lined the streets of Ensenada, but one peculiar item caught my eye: Mexican jumping beans. I had to find out for myself what animal inside caused these beans to jump (although I later found out that these are not beans at all but seed pods)! Yes, I will shamefully admit that this was my only purchase on my first trip to Mexico. And yes, I was so eager to find out what was inside that I spent a good part of one evening in my hotel room Foldscoping the inhabitants of these jumping beans.

        It turns out that in each “bean” is a moth larva (Cydia deshaisiana), nestled in snugly. These larvae, when exposed to heat (such as the warmth of a hand or direct sunlight), begin to spasm in an attempt to roll their home toward a cooler location. To take a closer look, I opened a bean up and removed it from its home.

        Removed from its seed pod, the larva moved much like any other soft-bodied larva: by slowly inching along. Turns out that the jumping motion in the seed pod is achieved by the larva tugging at threads inside of the pods. The larva itself was rather large (for a Foldscope specimen) and fragile, so I sandwiched it between 2 glass cover slips that were taped to a stack of paper slides. This way, the larva wasn’t stuck directly to tape and could crawl around a bit. The movement of its feet were actually quite fascinating to watch.

        What’s Inside the Bean? Photos Show the Building of ‘Cloud Gate’

        Construction of Cloud Gate, called “The Bean.” View Full Caption Courtesy Chicago Public Library

        DOWNTOWN — It’s been about 10 years since “Cloud Gate,” aka “The Bean,” was “birthed,” as one official said at the time.

        The sculpture wasn’t yet finished when a huge tent that had shrouded it was removed in late August 2005. But the public got a good look after what Millennium Park Vice President Henry Kleeman described as “a long labor.”

        “The Bean” sparked controversy when artist Anish Kapoor’s design was selected, as some believed it would be impossible to make or difficult to maintain. But the sculpture has become famous around the world (and inspired an imitation in China), with people flocking to “the Eiffel Tower of Chicago” to admire the 110-ton piece and take photos.

        The stainless steel skin hides an internal skeleton with flexible connectors that allow it to expand and contract in Chicago’s extreme weather. Thirty-three feet high, 42 feet wide and 66 feet long, its cost was a reported $23 million.

        Kelly Bauer explains how the first ‘Bean selfie’ happened:

        Meet the man who may have taken the first selfie at “The Bean.”

        We recently came across a number of photos posted by the Chicago Public Library detailing its construction. They’re pretty cool! Take a look:

        A rendering of the inside of “Cloud Gate.”

        Dec. 17, 2002: The omphalos, or navel, of Cloud Gate. You can see it when you walk under the Bean and look at the highest point of the “ceiling.”

        April 22, 2003: One of the steel plates that later became Cloud Gate.

        March 22, 2004: The inner “skeleton” of “Cloud Gate.”

        March 22, 2004: The omphalos, or navel, installed at “Cloud Gate.”

        March 25, 2004: The steel plates that make up the shell of “Cloud Gate” around the omphalos are attached.

        March 29, 2004: The steel plates that make up the shell of “Cloud Gate” are attached.

        March 31, 2004: The steel plates that make up the shell of Cloud Gate are attached.

        April 23, 2004: The steel plates that make up the shell of “Cloud Gate” are attached, and its inner “skeleton” is also visible here.

        April 25, 2004: The steel plates that make up the shell of “Cloud Gate” are attached.

        April 27, 2004: The steel plates that make up the shell of “Cloud Gate” are attached, and its inner “skeleton” is also visible here.

        April 29, 2004: The steel plates that make up the shell of “Cloud Gate” are attached.

        June 5, 2004: The steel plates that make up the shell of “Cloud Gate” are attached.

        June 8, 2004: The steel plates that make up the shell of “Cloud Gate” are attached, and its inner “skeleton” is also visible here.

        June 9, 2004: The steel plates that make up the shell of Cloud Gate are attached. Most of the plates are attached in this photo.

        June 28, 2004: Workers install the last steel plate used to create the outside shell of Cloud Gate.

        July 16, 2004: Cloud Gate is complete and temporarily open to the public here, though the welded edges of the steel plates are still visible. Later the steel plates had their edges grinded down so the Bean looks seamless.

        May 19, 2005: The steel plates have their welded edges ground down, giving the Bean a seamless look.

        “The Bean” was temporarily closed while the steel plates had their welded edges ground down to give the sculpture its seamless look. It was dedicated in 2006 and became a world-famous landmark and hot spot for selfies and photography.

        Here’s what it looks like now:

        The completed Bean in 2015.

        For more neighborhood news, listen to DNAinfo Radio here:

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