Grass paint for lawns

In today’s tutorial, I want to show you my favorite way to draw grass. I’ll show you step-by-step how to draw summer grass using the direct method of drawing, and blending by layering to create lush, green grass.

I’m excerpting this tutorial from the new in-depth tutorial from Ann Kullberg, Grazing Horses.

The drawing is on Bristol vellum, and I used Prismacolor Premier Soft Core pencils, but you can use any type of paper and any brand of pencils. The color names will differ, but you can easily match colors brand-to-brand by using online color charts.

How to Draw Summer Grass

Step 1

I like to establish pictorial depth (the illusion of distance) as soon as possible by using stroke quality, stroke, and value.

In the foreground, strokes are darker, longer and more varied. In the middle distance, strokes are shorter, lighter in value, and more uniform. Use circular or very short directional strokes in the far distance.

Since most of my work uses the umber under drawing method, Light Umber is the color I usually begin with.

Outline major shapes first. The shadows don’t need to be outlined; simply draw them with directional strokes.

Then shade the shadows with light pressure and very sharp pencils. It’s better to draw value layer by layer than to use heavier pressure, especially with a smooth paper like Bristol.

Step 2

Glaze Sand over the grass. Use light pressure and a sharp pencil to apply vertical strokes; longest strokes in the foreground and getting shorter as you work into the middle distance. Overlap strokes to avoid creating unwanted edges because once they appear, they’re difficult to conceal.

Next glaze Chartreuse over the same areas, using the same strokes and light pressure with a very sharp pencil.

Darken the darker values in the tall grass by layering Marine Green into the shadows around the horses and into some middle values. Again, use light pressure and overlapping, directional strokes.

You should not be able to see individual strokes as clearly in the background as in the foreground. Using directional strokes around the edges between values is enough to suggest the look of grass.

Step 3

Next, layer Chartreuse into some of the lighter middle values. Use the same type of stroke you used for the darker colors, but don’t cover every area of dark color with Chartreuse and add Chartreuse in some areas where there are no darker values.

Take your time. Colored pencil is a naturally slow medium. It takes less time to work carefully and get the drawing right the first time, than to have to cover or correct a mistake made because you were in too much of a hurry.

But don’t beat yourself up if you get careless. I’ve been using colored pencil for nearly twenty years and still have to make myself take a break. Step away from your work when you find yourself rushing or getting careless. You won’t regret it!

Step 4

Layer Olive Green over almost all of the meadow. Work around the brightest highlights. Use a combination of closely spaced vertical strokes and circular strokes with light to medium light pressure. Remember: Longer strokes in the foreground; shorter strokes in the background!

Use medium pressure and circular strokes to darken the shadows and darker middle values with Olive Green.

Next, layer Peacock Green over the meadow, starting at the bottom with directional strokes and medium-light to medium pressure.

Step 5

Layer Jasmine over the meadow with light-medium pressure. Use whatever stroke allows you to get even coverage (I used a combination of circular strokes and closely-spaced vertical strokes.)

Follow that with a layer of Olive Green over all of the meadow except the area immediately in front of the horses. Next, add a variety of short, vertical strokes to create the look of grass. Make sure to keep your pencil sharp, vary the length of the strokes (longer in front, shorter in back), and also vary the amount and direction of curve.

TIP: Don’t try to draw every blade of grass. That will drive you to distraction in no time! Instead, draw tufts of grass by varying the pattern of lights and darks. Also draw the most detail in the foreground, and in the edges between distinct colors or values.

Step 6

In the area immediately in front of the horses, stroke in clumps of grass with curving, fan-shaped strokes. Use sharp pencils and light pressure. You don’t want dark marks, but you do want them dark enough to show. The detail below shows the sort of stroke I use.

Don’t cover every bit of paper with these clumps. Also put the darkest marks on the shadowed side of each clump of grass, either by pressing a little harder on the pencil, or by placing strokes closer together.

Step 7

I glazed alternating layers of Jasmine and Olive Green over the meadow to finish drawing the grass and to warm up the green.

Step 8

Darken the foreground with a layer of Dark Green applied with medium to heavy pressure. Alternate between directional, vertical strokes to mimic grass and tight, circular strokes for even coverage.

Follow up with a layer of Dark Brown applied in the same way over the same areas, then add Indigo Blue and another layer of Dark Green.

Keep the darkest areas at the bottom of the drawing and gradually lighten values as you move upward in the composition.

Darken the cast shadows from the horses if necessary.

Conclusion

I’ve also described how to draw more detailed autumn grass. That tutorial shows you how to draw tall, more detailed grass. That method will also work if you want to draw summer grass that’s tall.

This tutorial is excerpted from the Grazing Horses In-Depth Tutorial from Ann Kullberg. The kit also describes step-by-step how to draw the horses, and the background.

Green Lawn Spray Services Fort Worth

Fire Ant Control

In Texas, one of the most serious pests is the red imported fire ant. Ants are one of the most numerous groups of insects found on earth. Ants have adapted to live very well with humans and have become pests in their homes, gardens, yards, and other areas.

Life Cycle

Red imported fire ants live in large colonies and build dome-shaped mounds that may contain more than 200,000 ants! They like to build mounds in open, sunny areas like yards, pastures, and gardens. During very hot or dry weather, fire ants will dig deeply into the soil to find cooler temperatures. However, soon after rain or thorough watering, their mounds will “magically” reappear because the ants are trying to escape from the water that flooded their mound. It may seem like there are more ants, but it is more likely that the ants already present are just building a new mound. Fire ants are very aggressive and will protect their mounds from any threat. When their mound is disturbed they will rush out of it in large numbers and will sting anything within their reach. This aggressive behavior is why so many people get stung — usually more than once. A few hours to a day after a fire ant stings, a red blister that contains fluid will form.

Control

Here at Kelly Green Lawncare we use the best product on the market & that is why we can offer a full one-year guarantee. We’ll treat your entire property to ensure complete control.

If the grass is always greener on the other side of the fence, your neighbor may be painting his lawn, a quick fix for drought-damaged turf.

Lawn painting isn’t new: Groundskeepers at golf courses and football fields have been touching up brown grass spots with paint for decades. Now, drought and water restrictions are forcing lawn-loving home owners to find non-water ways to keep their grass green, and lawn painting is an increasingly popular alternative.
“Business is through the roof,” says Dave Delatorre, owner of LawnLift grass paint, which sells lawn paint to home owners and landscapers running out of options.

Related: Gorgeous Drought-Resistant Plants

Lawn Paint Specs

Lawn paint is made from non-toxic and biodegradable ingredients that cling to grass blades — and anything else you spray it on. Most lawn paint is made from pulverized kaolin, a soft stone; some is made from decayed plants.

Lawn paint is harmless to humans and pets, is colorfast when dry, and won’t contaminate the watershed. It’ll last for 2 to 3 months, depending on how quickly your lawn grows and how often you mow it.
Thick, dormant grass — its roots are still good and the grass will green up again when rain resumes — takes lawn paint best. You can paint dead grass, but dead blades are brittle and likely to snap off and blow away, leaving ugly patches of brown dirt.

DIY Grass Paint Application

With a couple of bottles of grass paint and a garden sprayer, you can paint your lawn yourself. A 16-ounce bottle of concentrated grass paint ($25) will cover 300 square feet. Mix with water and spray. For best results:

  • Lawn should be mowed and dry.
  • Weather should be sunny and windless.
  • Spray wand should be set on a fine mist.
  • Test color on a hidden spot before spraying. Add water to lighten the color.
  • Spray in a circular pattern and plan on a second coat to get a richer color.

Grass paint will stain driveways, fence posts, pavers, and garden mulch, so protect surrounding areas with plastic sheeting and masking tape, and spray carefully. Scrub off mistakes with a wire brush and an ammonia-based window cleaner.

Professional Application

DIY is worth it since pros charge $200 to $500 for two coats on 2,000 sq. ft. But if you prefer the pro route, do an online search for “lawn care services” and “lawn maintenance” in your area.

Related: Do Home Remedies Work for Organic Lawn Care?

Lawn Painting Tips

1. To avoid staining yourself green, wear gloves, a facemask, goggles, and protective clothing when spraying.

2. You can make your own grass paint from Epsom salt, fertilizer, and green food coloring. Epsom salt adds magnesium, so test your soil before painting to make sure your lawn needs the added nutrients.

3. Don’t use homemade lawn paint during a heat wave, because the fertilizer base will stress grass even more. Instead, use this paint for fall or winter touchups.

4. Painted lawns still must be watered deeply once a week to keep roots alive.

Related: Early Spring Lawn Care Tips to Revive Your Frozen Turf

Homemade Lawn Dye

lawn image by Allyson Ricketts from Fotolia.com

A healthy green lawn is the basis of a beautiful yard. However, lawns do not always grow in the bright green colors that we see in magazines and on TV. In addition to the soil in which they grow, lawns often need additional nutrients to grow to their full color potential. The healthier a lawn is the greener it will be. Fertilizer provides your lawn with the overall range of nutrients it needs to thrive. Epsom salt provides it with extra magnesium and sulfate to help it grow naturally greener. Lastly, green food coloring gives the plant that extra boost of color.

Lawn Dye

Combine the plant fertilizer and Epsom salt together in the 5 gallon bucket.

Mix the fertilizer and the Epsom salt thoroughly using the paint stirring stick.

Pour the 1/4 cup of liquid green food coloring into the mixture. Do not dump the food coloring all in one spot, instead drizzle it over the surface of the mixture.

Use the paint stirring stick to mix the green food coloring into the mixture. Continue stirring until the entire mixture is tinted green.

Spread the lawn dye over the lawn evenly right before a light watering. The 5 pounds of lawn dye will cover 1,000 square feet of lawn.

Repeat the process once every four to six weeks for a bright green lawn.

Dyeing for a green lawn? That’ll work

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Spray paint your yard? Why not? Golf course managers do!

A surprising number of Southern golf courses are painted at least part of the year, especially in the fall and winter when managing the fairways can be pretty tough. Rather than overseed with ryegrass or other cool-season grass, which is expensive, labor and equipment intensive, and damages summer Bermuda grass with off-season fertilizing and watering, greenskeepers just spray on one of several colors of green available.

This isn’t just a stopgap measure for parched California lawns. A neighbor of mine had her lawn painted a couple of summers ago, just before a party, and it looked fantastic, even to an old turf guy like me. And a lot of folks use it to spot-treat small patches where diseases, insects, or dogs make the grass go brown.

You can paint yours as well, using a regular garden sprayer filled with a commercial lawn dye made with a special clay and organic colorings that are nontoxic to pets, birds, worms or anything else. Or make your own using green food coloring. Once dry, the dye adheres tightly to grass blades and can last three or four months, depending on how fast your grass grows and the amount of rainfall we get.

Be careful when applying lawn paint though, because the stain is hard to get off mulch, sidewalks, tree trunks, utility posts and other objects that get the drift. Before you do it yourself, read up online for tips on how to do it evenly, and be sure to wear throwaway shoes during application.

You can’t simply walk away from a painted lawn. It and weeds will continue to grow, even in the dry summer and start showing its roots, pardon the hair coloration pun. So it will need mowing, which chops off a lot of the sprayed portions. This makes it impractical for most Southern lawns, but does make quite a dramatic show for gussying up the lawn in the middle of the summer when it is off-colored or even brown, and not growing very well in the heat and drought.

Painting the lawn is not a substitute for good lawn care, which entails regular mowing, light fertilization and occasional deep watering but folks who don’t do all three of those, or overdo any one of them, often have patchy lawns.

Green dye isn’t cheating. It’s a horticultural hack that works.

To email Felder Rushing, go to www.felderrushing.net.

Hello art lovers out there! Today we are going to show you a technique on how to depict grass in a painting. There are two methods that I use: one in the studio using an airbrush to soften, the other when painting Plein Air (Painting outdoors in natural light). Hopefully it’s an approach you find useful in your painting as well.

As we have talked about in past blogs and videos, “Artist Technique Depicting Ground Texture” and “Technique for Wall Texture” (check those out if you haven’t already), I like to wet the board first, which allows the paint to go down smooth and even. But it can’t be too wet.

To the left is too wet. Let it dry to a low sheen or dull look which is not reflective as we see here.

This enables us to lay in colors, both light, dark, and medium values, all in one swoop as much as possible.

Why do we want all of the values in at the start? The advantage of doing it this way when painting grass is that it allows you to stroke the dark areas into the light areas to simulate grass blades. So where it’s dark, you stroke up into the light areas; and where it’s light you stroke it up into dark areas. This gives us the sense of grass blades showing up without having to paint every single detail of grass blades.

I’m utilizing an airbrush to keep the surface damp which allows it to be a little softer and not so crisp in the edge. It gives a mood to the overall grass look. Try to mix some of the subtle values that you see and pull blades of grass out of those subtle values into values just above it. You want your color mixing to be as close to the tones of each area as you possibly can. Think of it as shapes of silhouetted grass, light values over a dark value pulling those strokes of one silhouette out on top of another, on top of another and so on. Then put only a few blades of grass inside the silhouette itself.

That builds a look of a grassy field without overworking it with every single blade being painted.

Now on the right side, I approach it slightly different as if I was doing a Plein air painting. No airbrushing involved here. (Seeing the video will give you a better concept of my stroking action).

I like using older, worn out brushes where the bristles are uneven.

I push against the brush or I’ll use it sideways and push it up. It gives me loose, irregular strokes and broken up areas. You can see where it leaves rough areas of paint that looks like irregular grass in the distance.

That’s the best way to ruin a brush quickly. It’s the reason for using older, worn brushes.

The principles remain the same regarding pushing dark shapes into light shapes and pushing light strokes into darker strokes above it. You can pull a few blades of grass within that shape or silhouette, but not too many because you want it to feel (look) simple and not overworked. That’s the overall concept to get a feel for grass without having to do every single blade. Here’s what the final results look like. A field of grass that’s not overly painted or overly stroked:

Hope you get a sense of how to approach grass in a more simplified fashion. So which method do you like the most? Is it the technique using the airbrush or the straight painting technique of just the brush alone? Whichever…

Hopefully it’ll be a lot of fun when you paint. Try it out and let me know what you think. See you next time!

Videos » Acrylic Step by Step Painting Baseball in Grass Easy beginner Tutorial 🎨⚾

EASY Baseball in Grass Beginners learn to paint full acrylic art lesson. I would show yo how to make a Soft blended Background with Stencil brushes and easy Grass. This is A Sports Still life on Canvas. You can Paint this For the Trace-able : https://theartsherpa.com/tas170620.01

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Paper towels Water cup Chalk, a few colors Ruler Sharpie Table easel Delicious snack or beverage A smile! *** Other Supplies *** Paper towels Water cup Chalk, a few colors Ruler Sharpie Table easel Delicious snack or beverage A smile!

Have fun Live with The Art Sherpa during this BEGINNER HOW TO PAINT art lesson in acrylic art tutorial. This is an easy, fun, social art lesson for canvas. We talk about art and other fun subjects. With help and guidance, anyone can paint. You can paint!

Want to see something? Just comment! Tell me what you’d like to paint, or what you want to know about art. This is YOUR art journey. Open your heart and access your art.

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Artwork is the property of Cinnamon Cooney and The Art Sherpa LLC. and is intended for the personal enjoyment of the student. Did you sell a painting of my original design via private sale? Congratulations and big art high fives!

For commercial use or licensing in the painting party, social painting, or other venues; please visit our business website:

https://theartsherpa.com/labs

If you’d like to share our tutorial/original painting design with a church group, skilled nursing facility or other nonprofit interest, do get in touch. We have ideas, guides and a few fun little extras to make bringing the Art Sherpa to your community one big party. Let’s collaborate! This artwork is under copyright and is intended for the viewer’s personal enjoyment.

If your paintings of my original design are offered for sale in a retail setting of any kind, please attribute ‘Original design by Cinnamon Cooney, The Art Sherpa. www.theartsherpa.com’

Please, create no prints or mechanical reproductions of your paintings of my original design.

How to Draw Realistic Grass in 4 Easy Steps

By Carrie Lewis in Art Tutorials > Drawing Tips

Ever wonder what’s the most difficult—and most time consuming—part of a landscape to draw? If you’re like me, it’s the grass. Even if your composition only has a small grassy area, it can seem to take years to get it finished, and get it right.

So anytime I find a different way to draw grass, I sit up and take notice. And since I know I’m not the only colored pencil artist struggling with this aspect of landscape drawing, I wanted to share a my latest method with you.

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Ready to draw? Let’s get started!

Step 1: Lay down basic green colors in even layers

Choose two to four shades of green in a range of values and sharpen each pencil as much as possible. Then start layering your color on the paper, ideally working from a photograph to have an idea of where your lights and darks will go.

You want these initial layers to be as smooth and even as possible, with no visible pencil strokes. Most experts recommend horizontal oval-shaped or circular strokes, since those have no starting or stopping points.

Start with light to medium-light pressure. The lighter the pressure you use, the more layers you may have to draw. Be careful not to use such heavy pressure that you crush or press down the tooth of the paper, though. That will make it very difficult to add additional color.

The goal for this first layer is to have three distinct sections of different values—light, medium, and dark—with very little overlap between them.

Here was my base layer:

If you want, you can blend this layer with odorless mineral spirits when you’re finished. I blended the left side and left the right unblended, so you can see how it changes the final drawing. If you do decide to blend, let the paper dry completely before starting the next step.

TIP: When blending with odorless mineral spirits, wet your brush and blend in the same direction as your pencil strokes. Also, start blending in the lightest area of color, and rinse your brush between colors, so you don’t get unwanted darks in the light areas. Since my drawing was so small, I used cotton swabs for blending and used each swab just once to keep my colors separate!

Step 2: Darken your colors and values

For the second step, use the same colors to add a second layer over the top of the first one. Start to overlap your colors so your sections don’t feel quite as distinct.

NOTE: If you blend with odorless mineral spirits, you may find the next layer goes onto the paper more easily and is darker than the first layers. The second layers of color for this demo piece were markedly darker when applied over blended color than over unblended.

You may blend again at the end of this step. If you do blend throughout the drawing, use less odorless mineral spirits with each step. The more pigment on the paper, the less solvent you should use, or you could accidentally life the color off the paper.

Step 3: Add a unifying layer of color

In this step you want to layer the lightest color over the entire grassy area, including the shadows (even cast shadows such as I’ve drawn.) Add a couple of layers in the darker areas if necessary to provide a unifying color layer.

Then, lightly layer the middle value color over most of the drawing. Work into the lightest area, but don’t add middle value over all of the lighter values. Use light pressure and decrease the pressure as you work further into the background.

Blend again, if you wish.

TIP: If your greens get a bit too bright, you can always tone them down with a glaze of earth tones. You can, of course, neutralize the vibrancy at any time, including after the grass is finished, but it’s easier to take this step before adding details.

I lightly shaded a neutral, light earth tone over the right side of the sample below so you could see how much difference a small amount of color can make.

Step 4: Add grassy details

For the final step, it’s time to add details that will make the area look more like grass and less like carpet.

Use very sharp pencils and make short, vertical strokes to mimic the look of grass. You don’t have to add vertical strokes everywhere, but you can if you wish. You’ll find that vertical strokes are most effective when placed directly on the edges between your different colors and values.

So begin with the darkest value you used for the previous steps and add short, vertical strokes along the edges between the colors. Keep the strokes very short in the background—use a stippling stroke if you prefer. As you move toward the foreground, lengthen the strokes and add more variety in direction and angle.

Below, I’ve added “grass-like” strokes around the edge of the dark cast shadow (but not inside it) and along the bottom of the drawing, in the foreground.

Obviously, at this point you no longer want to blend your colors, since these details are what makes the grass look like grass! 🙂 But you can see how blending in the earlier stages gave a slightly richer, deeper color to the left of the drawing above.

TIP: If you’re drawing freshly-mown grass, you’ll want to keep these strokes fairly uniform. If you’re drawing tall grass, you have a little more wiggle room in the length and variety of the strokes.

Interestingly, this isn’t my favorite way to draw grass. I usually prefer using directional, vertical, and stippling strokes through all of the steps. But that can take a very long time, so on those occasions when a drawing needs to be done quickly or for much larger works, this method is great for speeding up the process.

If you have the time, though, feel free to cover all of the paper—or at least the foreground—with short, varied strokes like this, to emphasize the grass:

As you can see, the results are definitely worth it!

NOTE: You may also be interested in EE’s step-by-step drawing guide for artists. Click below to learn more!

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