Gloxinia seeds for sale

Gloxinia Mix

12″ tall x 10″ wide. You may think of Gloxinia as an old-fashioned houseplant, but once you see its stunning, velvety blooms, you’ll be changing your tune. Gloxinia is a great fit for modern homes and landscapes. Yes, you can grow this tuber as a houseplant, but outdoors, it also serves as a luscious summer annual. Tubers are planted 1 to 2 inches deep in well-drained soil and partial sun. Avoid full-on afternoon sun to keep the dark green rosette of soft, fuzzy leaves from turning crispy. If grown as a houseplant, water gloxinia from below by setting the pot in a tray or saucer of water for one hour. In the garden, irrigate at root level and do not overwater or allow the plants to completely dry out. After the long flowering period ends, gloxinia plants shift into a 7 to 9 week dormancy where the plants die completely back. During this time, move any potted gloxinia plants into a cool area and limit watering and avoid fertilization. Outdoors, the tubers must be lifted before a hard frost and brought indoors for the dormancy period where they can be kept in a box of peat moss in the garage. After the time of dormancy passes, pot or repot the tubers and begin to increase light levels and regularly water the plant to generate a new flush of beautiful blooms.

More Information



Common Name

Gloxinia Mix

Botanical Name

Gloxinia Mix

Item Package Size

Bag of 5

Flower Color


Flower Size

3″ Flowers


Green textured oval-shaped foliage.

Light Requirements

Half Sun / Half Shade, Full Shade

Bloom Time

All summer

Mature Height

6-12″ tall

Bulb Spacing

3 bulbs per sq. ft.

Bulb Size

6 cm

Planting Depth

Bulbs/Tubers should be planted 1-2″ below the soil line.

Soil Type

Loamy Soil

Soil Moisture

Average, Well Draining


Good For Containers

Additional Information

Perennial in zones 9-11. Can be grown as annuals in zones 3-8.


3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

Ships As

Bulb, Rhizome, Tuber

Neonicotinoid Free

Yes – Learn More

Planting Time

Spring / Summer

Ships to Hawaii, Alaska & Canada


January 3, 2009

All of the gloxinias from the August sowing have now been moved to four or six inch pots. The eager beaver mentioned in the last posting now splits its time between a spot on the stove under a fluorescent light and on a sunny countertop in the kitchen. My wife, Annie, says it is one of the prettiest gloxinias we’ve had.

I’ll probably try to start another round of gloxinias sometime this spring for late fall potted plants. That’s a very busy time in the garden and under my plant lights. But it’s also just the right time to start gloxinias for September and October blooms. So, I’m going to make an effort to find the time and space for them under the plant lights. Note that I rarely put gloxinias outside in the summer. They just don’t seem to do as well as they do under the plant light. But when space gets tight…

You might wonder why I’d consider starting more plants in the spring when I currently have ten healthy gloxinias. Over the years I’ve found that friends and visitors to our home (and in the past, to my classroom) generally oohed and aahed over the plants. When given one, they were absolutely delighted. I expect our gloxinia population to begin to dwindle as the plants come into bloom, and they are adopted out to good homes.

As the rest of the plants come into bloom, I’ll begin hand pollinating the blooms, tagging the pollinated blooms (usually with just a loosely attached twist tie), and collecting seed once they dry out.

January 16, 2009

Our one blooming gloxinia finished its early bloom cycle and went back downstairs under the plant lights this week. Hopefully, it will now add foliage and build its corm before blooming again.

When I was uploading some video to YouTube to illustrate the Brinno GardenWatchCam, I ran across a video labeled “Flower Bloom.” I think the video is from the camera’s manufacturer, but how delightful (for me, at least) that the flower blooming was a gloxinia!

January 20, 2009

I really wasn’t thrilled with the gloxinia offerings on eBay, but I succumbed to the temptation last week and ordered several packets of gloxinia seed. The seed was packaged in small plastic bags, which made it very difficult to seed. The dustlike seed clung to the the sides of the bags, so I had to cut them open and wash the seed off the plastic into the planting pot.

So, even though I already have nine or ten healthy gloxinia plants under my grow lights, there are 30 seeds in the pot shown above.

February 12, 2009

The gloxinias seeded in January are just beginning to germinate.

Our August sowing is coming along nicely. Three of them that are currently in bloom are sharing kitchen counter space with all the other items there. From left to right are an Empress, a Double Brocade, and a speckled blooming gloxinia from saved (and crossed) seed. When the sun fades, the gloxinias are moved onto the stove (when clear) under a fluorescent light.

It appears the gloxinias are putting up one or two early blooms before returning to growing leaves and adding to their corm. As they finish this early blooming cycle, I return them to the plant rack in the basement under our plant lights.

I noticed the leaves on the gloxinias in the basement were yellowing a bit. I began top watering with some dilute fertilizer that contains extra iron, but also switched one bulb per fixture to a new 6500K (daylight) fluorescent tube. The remaining old fluorescent tubes are 4100K, which probably was the problem. I’ve noticed immediate improvement.

February 14, 2008

At this point, you might wonder why I go to all the trouble of growing gloxinias. It does take a long time from seed.

Below is a photo taken in my classroom in 1996 of a Double Brocade gloxinia. I think the picture easily answers the possible question above.

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April 14, 2009

I’m getting a bit behind on this feature, but I haven’t been neglecting our gloxinias. Several in turn have produced blooms and come upstairs for their duration. It appears our plants are putting out one or two tentative blooms before returning to building leaves and corm. When I return the plants to our plant lights in the basement, I try to make sure to add the bloom color to the plant tag in each pot.

Since both our planting and the seed’s germination were staggered a bit, I have plants in various sizes. I just moved the last three plants out of our coke bottom seeding pot into a fourpack this week.

I’ve moved each of the gloxinias into four inch plastic pots when they’re ready, although many have required a move to a six inch square pot later. The frequent moves have also helped me get away from a dreadful potting mix I used early on.

Here are the four inch square pot bunch. As you can see, I’m having some yellowing that repotting and/or fertilizing, plus watching moisture levels seems to correct.

Some of the gloxinias above have been moved to six inch round pots. The Empress variety almost always produces a larger plant and requires the larger pot. Notice the two gloxinias in the white, four inch square pots will need a larger pot soon.

A couple of the plants that have already bloomed once are putting on multiple buds and should be free flowering soon. If you’re keeping score, it appears that the first bunch will be in full bloom about eight and a half months after seeding.

May 3, 2009

It’s been eight to nine months from seed, but we finally have our first gloxinia in full bloom. We’ve been tantalized over the last few months with plants with one, two, or three blooms, before they stop blooming and begin building foliage and corm again.

The gloxinia pictured below has six open blooms with at least seven or eight more showing. I’m sorta proud of it, as it’s one of our gloxinias from saved seed, rather than from seed I purchased.

It’s probably time for me to get some more gloxinia seed started for full blooms next December or January. Of course, I’ll still have my current plants (if I don’t give them all away as I’m prone to do at times), but I’d like to get back to glorious displays such as the one pictured at the top of this feature.

May 15, 2009

I seeded three more “pots” of gloxinias on May 6 and was pleased yesterday to find lots of tiny gloxinia seedlings emerging. Unfortunately, I tapped my seed vial over one of the pots a bit too hard and ended up with a clump of seed in one spot. I tried scooting it a bit, but as you can see at right, the plants and the reddish-brown seeds are way too close. I’ll lose some plants from crowding, but will transplant the survivors as early as possible.

Still to Come: Pinching, Dormancy, Leaf Cuttings, and Saving Seed

I’ve been taking things pretty much in chronological order in this feature. Some readers may be way ahead of me and have questions about pinching off plants, how to treat gloxinias as they enter and emerge from dormancy, how to replicate plants via leaf cuttings, and/or how to pollinate and save seed from them. I’ll get to each of these issues as we get there. And, I’ve purposely avoided talking about pinching off plants to make them bush out better, as I’m really not very good at it.

If you have questions before I get to this stuff, write.

September 11, 2009 – Saving Seed from Gloxinias

We’re now getting some good amounts of seed from our gloxinias. I did a posting on my Senior Gardening blog about it today. I’d planned to put the information here, and will, eventually.

I wasn’t happy with the sharpness of some of the images of the seed in the flower ovaries (at left), so I’m waiting on some close-up filters I ordered before redoing the photography for the update.

October 10 , 2009 – Saving Seed from Gloxinias

I finally got some better images of pollinating gloxinias. The task took a digital SLR with manual focusing capabilities, a better lens than the “kit lens” supplied with the camera, a set of macro close-up filters (instead of a far more expensive macro lens), and a good tripod. But at long last, I’ve put up the seed saving information on a separate page, Saving Gloxinia Seed.

Most of my gloxinia plants are headed towards dormancy, so that will probably be the next topic I’ll cover here. If I can, I’ll also snip a few leaf cuttings for propagation and document that process here as well.

March 18, 2010 – Creative Pinching

Years ago, you used to be able to send gloxinia plants from local florists. The plants delivered often had masses of six to ten blooms in the center. It made for a fantastic gift.

One of our last gloxinias to come into bloom this blooming period had a number of buds trapped under its leaves. There really was no way to gently guide the buds past some new leaves in the center of the plant, so I just pinched off the leaves, leaving an outer ring of older leaves with the buds and blooms in the center unimpeded in their upward growth.

I think the florist gloxinias of old were probably second year plants, but I’m hoping to achieve the same effect with my first year plants with the creative pinching.

Update (4/6/2012): Don’t be afraid to pinch back the center of young gloxinias from seed once they get several, say four or more, true leaves on them. Pinching out the growth center will slow the young plants down a bit, but will also make them spread out with more stalks…which means more blooms eventually.

March 31, 2010

As I saw the cluster of blooms maturing on the plant I pinched off a few weeks ago, I cut off the existing blooms to allow the plant to put all its energy into a big splash of blooms. My wife was a bit disappointed, as the cut blooms really hadn’t begun to wilt all that much. But the result was just what I wanted. In just a few days, the plant put up six new blooms with more on the way.

While this isn’t our prettiest gloxinia, it sure is a nice addition to our kitchen window. And, this was from a first year corm. Gloxinias that are in their second or later years can produce really dazzling clusters of blooms, as their corms are much stronger.

Saturday, December 24, 2011 – Surprises

While watering our gloxinia plants this week, I saw what I thought was a bit of moss growing around the base of one of the plants. Reaching to rub out the moss, I quickly drew back in surprise. It turned out that two of our plants had lots of baby gloxinias growing around them!

I didn’t spill any seed on the pots, nor do I reuse potting soil without first composting it and then sterilizing it in the oven. So the seeds didn’t come from either of those two possible sources.

I really haven’t given our gloxinias the care they need this fall, having concentrated more on outdoor gardening and home repairs. I recently cut many of the plants back a good bit and also have quite a few entering dormancy.

The cutting back of ragged and dead foliage made possible my “discoveries.” Apparently, the plants had somehow self-pollinated (not too many bees in our basement), and I simply didn’t notice. I’d been too busy with other stuff to do much more with the plants than their weekly watering. When I finally did get the plants cleaned up, there were lots of spent blooms to pick off. I never noticed any seed bearing stems, but I was going pretty fast when I cut and pinched off the old growth and blooms.

I pinched off a few more leaves today that may be shading the baby gloxinias. It shouldn’t hurt the existing, mature gloxinias, as they are pretty well on their way towards their required period of dormancy.

When the tiny gloxinias get just a bit larger, I’ll transplant them into fourpacks or 3″ square pots.

Dormancy (Updated 4/8/2011)

After gloxinias go through a blooming cycle, at some point the leaves will begin to wrinkle and possibly even yellow a bit. When this happens after a good blooming period, it’s time to cut back on watering the plant and stop fertilizing it. The plant is heading into a required period of dormancy. Fertilizing, repotting with fresh potting soil, and frequent watering will force the plant to produce leaves (and possibly a few blooms) until it dies! As the leaves of the plant wither, just pick them off until there’s nearly none left and move the plant to a dark, cool place and let it sit. In several months, you will see tiny leaves emerge from the plant corm. At that time, repot the plant, or at least add some fresh potting soil around the edges of the pot, fertilize, and move it back into the light to begin another growth and blooming cycle.

After five or six of our plants broke dormancy over the winter in 2011, I began to wonder if I had become “the great gloxinia killer,” as some twenty or so other dormant plants sat and did nothing for the next three months. When I moved all of our spring garden transplants outside in April, I noticed first one, no two…and finally, about a dozen of the previously dormant plants had put on tiny shoots and leaves. Whew!

Sadly, some plants never emerge from dormancy. If it’s your one prized gloxinia, that’s pretty bad. We now have dozens of gloxinia plants in various stages of growth, so losing one or two isn’t a tragedy.

The late James Underwood Crockett wrote in Crockett’s Indoor Garden (out of print now, but still available used from Amazon and other book resellers) that “there is absolutely nothing complicated about handling a gloxinia during its dormancy.” He adds that “gloxinias can live for years – fifty-year-old plants are not unknown.”

Of course, he proceeds to tell the following somewhat humorous story:

I remember once selling a gloxinia from the flower shop that I owned in the late 1940s. I explained to the buyer that the plant needed dormant periods after each flowering, and told her how to care for the plant during each part of its cycle. Her eyes glazed over, her brow furrowed slightly, and she left my shop with what I knew to be a doomed plant.

Crockett’s brief entry (pp 301-303) in Crockett’s Indoor Garden is some of the best cultural information I’ve found on growing gloxinias. If you’re willing to watch and shop online a bit, one can often pick up a used copy of one of Crockett’s books from Alibris or Amazon for about $4 shipped!

Full disclosure: Alibris and Amazon are Senior Gardening affiliated advertisers. That means that if you buy a copy through one of the links above, I’ll make about a 4¢ commission on the sale. More full disclosure: Emoticons used occasionally on this site are “borrowed” from the excellent, open source course management system, Moodle.

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Leaf Cuttings (Updated 4/6/2012)

I’ve certainly taken my own sweet time in getting this last piece of essential gloxinia culture published. The reason for the delay is that I don’t reproduce many gloxinias by leaf cuttings. I really prefer the experience and surprises involved with growing them from seed (especially open pollinated seed that may produce all sorts of blooms).

But I got busy last November (2011) and took three leaf cuttings from a very pretty gloxinia while taking some cuttings from a couple of our ivy leaf geranium plants. I’m just putting this section up now, as the last two of the three leaf cuttings have finally produced baby gloxinia plants.

When reproducing gloxinias from leaf cuttings, it’s important to remember that what you’re creating is pretty much an exact clone of the plant from which the cuttings are taken. Don’t expect to get velvety red blooms from cuttings taken from a purple blooming gloxinia plant. It’s not going to happen.

The first step is to find a healthy gloxinia you wish to reproduce that has some small to medium sized leaves. For leaf cuttings, you don’t want the jumbos that gloxinias in full bloom often produce. Select a two to three inch leaf that with its stem (as much stem as you can get) isn’t over about four inches long. Just use scissors to snip off the leaf at its base.

I trimmed a leaf or two off the plant shown here to expose the leaf to be cut. Without doing so, you have to worm your scissors through the plant growth to get to where you want to cut.

Don’t get too hung up on leaf size. A little bigger or smaller certainly won’t hurt anything. And…I went back and shot new photos of taking the cutting(s) today, as my original shots really stunk! I didn’t measure the leaf to be cut, but when I put it down on the tape measure, son of a gun, it was almost exactly four inches long.

At this point, you need some supplies to aid your leaf cuttings in rooting. You’ll want some rooting hormone and sterile planting medium along with pots or other containers. I used some powdered Rootone I had on hand for the cuttings I took in November, but Hormex or the newer and much more expensive Clonex rooting compound gel will do the job. I think my rooting powder was too old, which caused our cuttings to take a long time to root. But that also may tell you something about the necessity, or lack thereof, for using rooting gel. Since taking those cuttings last November, I did buy some of the rooting gel for a cutting from my wife’s favorite geranium that had developed a woody stem, and the precious cutting rooted in just a few weeks! So, it’s probably better to use rooting compound, just not very old, probably outdated stuff.

If using a powdered rooting hormone, dip the stem of your leaf in water first and then into the powder. If you’re using rooting gel, just dip the stem in the gel.

Make a slanted hole in your planting medium and insert the stem right up to the base of the leaf. Firm the sand, soil, or whatever medium you use over the stem. Then the whole pot with the cutting should go under something to hold in moisture until some rooting begins. I just pop my cuttings into a plant flat with a clear, humidome cover. Note that when I got pressed for space some weeks ago, I took the last two leaf cuttings out from under their humidome, and they still rooted. But at first, the cuttings will need something, even a clear plastic bag that doesn’t touch the leaf, to hold in moisture and allow light in.

As I mentioned earlier, when I took the cuttings in November, I was also taking cuttings of some ivy leaf geraniums. At that time of year, there’s not much competition for our plant heat mat, so I popped all the cuttings onto the heat mat in a tray with a clear cover. Bottom heat really isn’t necessary for rooting cuttings, but in moderation, it can’t hurt.

Note, if you click on the image at right for the larger image, the temperature shown (86.9o F) is because I bottom watered the tray with warm water. My thermostat was set at 75o F.

Don’t give up if your leaf begins to brown in spots and shrivel after about a month. The nasty looking, shriveled leaf shown at left, when turned around (below at right) is producing a baby gloxinia plant. Instead, continue to watch it closely, because a new plant will probably begin to emerge shortly thereafter. From our November cuttings, we had one baby gloxinia emerge in mid-February. I didn’t notice the other two plants until today, April 6. I have no idea why the different leaves took differing times to put out baby gloxinias, but was pleased that all of the gloxinia cuttings I took rooted and produced new plants.

All of the above may seem like a lot of trouble, but with gloxinia plants and corms going for over $10 each, replicating plants you like really is a good deal. From cutting to bloom, it’s supposed to take about six months, as opposed to from seed to bloom which runs at least seven months.

And while they’re all still small, the images below are the result of the three leaf cuttings I took in November.

The plants above all came from cuttings from the purple gloxinia shown below. And to demonstrate the use of the rooting gel, I did take a couple of cuttings today from the red gloxinia in the same photo. I fully expect to have some absolutely gorgeous replicas of the the two gloxinias below in just a few months.

Yet Another Update (2/14/2014)

Kevin Maciunas recently shared a method of propagating gloxinias from flower stem cuttings. Since we’re currently “bloom challenged,” I’ll just link to the blog posting where I relate, with many quotes from Kevin, how to do the interesting propagation technique. When we get some blooms again, I’ll do a better write-up of it and replace this update with a better description.

Gloxinia Photos (10/12/2012)

I added a page of Gloxinia Photos to the site today. As we progress into plants that have been through several years growth and periods of dormancy, we’re getting a lot more plants that produce 10-20 blooms at a time.

Gloxinias Outdoors? (1/29/2013)

An email exchange with a Senior Gardening reader brought to my attention that gloxinias can be successfully grown outdoors in the right conditions. Since our area precludes any such activity (I’ve tried, and it was a miserable failure.), I simply wrote this feature story as if gloxinias could only exist as houseplants or greenhouse plants.

Silly me! Gloxinias were first discovered and some types grow today in the wild in Central and South America!

So when Robyn Wood (no relation) saw our Gloxinias feature story, he sent the email below, launching a new and exciting learning experience for me about gloxinias. He wrote in his first email (edited):

I live in Sydney, Australia, and I discovered these truly wonderful plants last year and planted them (four plants) out in my garden where they get filtered morning sun. Unfortunately, one of them died, but the other three have just emerged and are growing brilliantly. I appear to be doing everything wrong. I water them with a sprinkler and haven’t ever fed them, but they are growing beautifully. I have just bought eight more plants – should I continue to do as I have done or not?

From the beautiful images Robyn shared, it’s obvious he certainly isn’t “doing everything wrong” in his setting, and probably is doing it just right for his plants and growing conditions. He shared in a subsequent email that they rarely have frost in Sydney and never snow, with winter temperatures generally in the 50s or 60s. His gloxinias grow in the lovely east facing area shown below that gets “filtered morning sun,” with rather humid conditions in the spring and summer.

Robyn’s comments have made me wonder how many other climatic areas there are that may be ideal for growing gloxinias outside? My thanks to him for writing and sharing his experiences and the great photos of his plants, especially his gorgeous garden shot. It makes me want to pack my bags and visit Sydney!

And this experience reminds me once again that learning is a lifelong activity and that sharing gardening information, especially about gloxinias, is always fun.

Where to Buy Gloxinia Seed (updated 7/20/2018)

Possibly the best place to find good gloxinia seed is Stokes Seeds. They’ve carried the excellent, open pollinated Empress variety for years. There are a lot of other sellers of Empress seed (and other varieties) on eBay and Amazon. Saving Gloxinia Seed is pretty easy. But before buying, you might want to check out the sellers’ ratings at Dave’s Garden!

The hybrid Double Brocade variety seems to come and go from various seed houses. We’ve been lucky to produce double blooms from saved seed in our seed saving over the years. I’ve now moved on to saving seed from the doubles, although I suspect the saved seed will yield plants with various colors and both single and double blooms.

I can’t really recommend any supplier for the Double Brocade variety, but can suggest one do a Google search to find seed.

Another source of gloxinia seed is The Gesneriad Society. I’ve received some good seed via member swaps. Membership runs $25/year and allows one to order from their massive Seed Fund collection. The Society also has a web page of Gesneriad Suppliers, some of which appear to sell corms and plants.

Note: I don’t sell gloxinia seed, corms, or plants. I have, on occasion, traded seed with other growers and give away a lot of seed and plants. One very positive swap was with John Rizzi from California, who sent me a generous sample of Cranberry Tiger gloxinia seed in exchange for some of our open pollinated seed. His seed has produced some really lovely plants.

I started growing gloxinias sometime in the late 1970’s. I was already growing some of my own garden transplants, so adding flowers under our homemade plant rack wasn’t all that big a deal.

As the years went on, our gloxinia collection would increase and decline. But partially from my years as a wedding photographer, keeping film, photo paper, and especially the expensive 500-volt dry cell batteries we used in the freezer to preserve them, freezing seed never seemed like all that much trouble.

In a bit of a tragedy all of my own making, we lost all of our gloxinia plants in 2007. I then had the experience of starting all over with gloxinias. I had the advantages, of course, of already having a plant rack with lights, lots of seed stored in our manual defrost chest freezer, and some experience in starting and caring for the plants. But having to start over got me back to where folks who are new to growing these lovely plants begin and helped me in writing this feature story, along with our Saving Gloxinia Seed and Gloxinia Photos feature stories.

The experience was also a sad reminder that one doesn’t usually get glorious, florist quality gloxinias with 10-20 center blooms from a first year plant. But those kind of plants do come after dormancy with second, third, and succeeding year plants. And I use the expression “florist quality gloxinias” in a historical sense, as I’ve not found a florist in recent years that sells and delivers gloxinias! That’s sad as I think I “discovered” gloxinias from a plant delivered to the hospital when one of our children was born (over forty years ago).

It takes seven months, more or less, for gloxinias grown from seed to flower, but the payoff is well worth the effort.

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