Fruit trees zone 6

Zone 6 Fruit Trees – Planting Fruit Trees In Zone 6 Gardens

A fruit tree can be an indispensable addition to the garden. Producing beautiful, sometimes fragrant, flowers and tasty fruit year after year, it might wind up being the best planting decision you ever make. Finding the right tree for your climate can be a little tricky, however. Keep reading to learn more about what fruit trees grow in zone 6.

Fruit Trees for Zone 6 Gardens

Here are some good fruit trees for zone 6 landscapes:

Apples – Perhaps the most popular garden fruit tree, apples come in a wide range of varieties that perform well in different climates. Some of the best matches for zone 6 are:

  • Honeycrisp
  • Gala
  • Red Halareds
  • McIntosh

Pears – The best European pears for zone 6 are:

  • Bosc
  • Bartlett
  • Conference
  • Rescue

Asian Pears – Not the same as European pears, Asian pear fruit trees have a few varieties that do well in zone 6. Some of the best are:

  • Kosui
  • Atago
  • Shinseiki
  • Yoinashi
  • Seuri

Plums – Plums are a great choice for zone 6 gardens. Good European varieties for zone 6 include Damson and Stanley. Good Japanese varieties are Santa Rosa and Premier.

Cherries – Most varieties of cherry trees will perform well in zone 6. Sweet cherries, which are best for eating fresh from the tree, include:

  • Benton
  • Stella
  • Sweetheart
  • Richmond

You can also reliably grow many sour cherries for pie making, such as Montgomery, North Star and Danube.

Peaches – Some peach trees perform well in zone 6, especially:

  • Candor
  • Elberta
  • Halehaven
  • Madison
  • Redhaven
  • Reliance

Apricots – Chinese Sweet Pit, Moongold and Sungold apricot trees are all varieties that handle zone 6 conditions well.

Growing Fruit Trees and Berries in Zone 6

There is a wide variety of fruit that can be grown in the Kansas City area. Cherries, plums, peaches, apples, pears, nectarines, blackberries, raspberries, gooseberries, blueberries, grapes, and strawberries. With the right combination of plants, it is possible to harvest fruit from Early June through November.

Site Requirements

Most fruit trees and berries require an open sunny area away from large trees which can result in excess shade and root competition. Organic well drained soil is also important this can be accomplished through the addition of compost during the planting process. In clay soils a shallow elevated planting hole is required. It is important to plant your fruit trees and berries near a water source.

Planting Process

The depth of the planting hole depends on the soil type. In loose well drained soil the planting hole should be as deep as the root ball. Never dig a hole deeper than the depth of the root ball. In tight clay soils and poor draining areas the planting hole should be shallow with up to one quarter of the root ball above the grade of soil. The width of the planting hole should be twice as wide as the diameter of the root ball. Please refer to our step by step tree planting guide

Step by Step:

  • Next take the root ball out of the container and place it in the hole. If the tree is in a Grow Right Bag set the tree in the hole, tip it backwards and cut out the bottom out of the bag with a sharp knife, then stand the tree upright and make a cut up the side of the bag to remove it. Be careful to keep the root ball in tact
  • Colonial Gardens recommends applying Myke mycorrhizae onto the root ball to help with the establishment and long-term health of the plant. This is done by lightly spritzing the root ball with water and then rubbing the Myke powder onto the root ball at the recommended rate.
  • After the Myke is applied to the root ball back fill the planting hole half way with the native soil. Mix the remaining native soil with an equal amount of compost and finish back-filling the planting hole with the mixture. If the tree was planted above the grade of the existing soil mound the soil and compost mixture up to the root ball. Do not put any soil on top of the root ball or around the trunk.
  • Mulch with two inches of organic mulch. Avoid staking trees if possible, although in windy locations and with top heavy trees staking may be necessary. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the root ball. The addition of Holganix compost tea is also beneficial to tree health.
  • Blueberries prefer a soil with a low Ph. Adding soil amendments that are acidic will lower the Ph. Peat moss, pine bark mulch, composted oak leaves and pine needles are all effective at acidifying the soil.

Water and Fertility

Regular watering is important for fruit trees and berries. During the summer months your plants will benefit from 1” of rain or supplemental water per week. During the cooler spring and fall months 1” every two weeks is sufficient and in the winter 1” every three weeks. If you cannot gage the water in inches apply enough water to thoroughly saturate the soil 6” – 8” deep inside the drip line.

Applying an organic or slow release, balanced fertilizer in March will help with plant health and fruit production. Fertilizer should be applied inside the drip line of the tree.

Pest Management

There are several steps that you can take to reduce the pesticide use on your fruit trees and berries.

  • Plant Resistant Cultivars – There are many cultivars and root stock that are resistant to one or more diseases.
  • Sanitation – Keeping the area around your fruits and berries as clean as possible will reduce the amount of disease and insects. This includes cleaning up dead leaves, fruit, and branches from the area as well as removing weeds.
  • Cultural Practices – A healthy plant will be less susceptible to disease and insects.

Proper plant placement, planting procedure, pruning, fertility, and watering will keep plants healthy and vigorous.

The most important time to spray fruit trees is during the dormant period in late February to early March. Use a mixture of dormant oil to smother insect eggs and lime sulfur to prevent fungus (if lime sulfur is not available mix the dormant oil with liquid copper fungicide)

During the growing season spray plants only as needed. Keep an eye on the weather and examine your plants closely on a weekly basis

  • If the spring weather is wet and cool continue to spray copper fungicide every two weeks until the warm dry weather arrives.
  • If you notice caterpillars during your weekly inspection treat them with Bt insecticide.
  • For aphids, Japanese beetles, white fly, and other insects apply Pyrethrin insecticide.

Pruning Fruit Trees

Pruning fruit trees should be done during the dormant season in mid to late February before applying the dormant spray. You will need hand pruners, a pruning saw, loppers, and for larger trees a chain saw, and pole saw. Never use pruning paint or tar.

Fruit trees should be pruned into an open habit to provide air circulation and sunlight to the interior of the tree. Try to remove entire branches all the way back to the trunk or back to another branch. Make all pruning cuts flush to a branch collar leaving the branch collar intact.

Pruning Blackberries and Raspberries (Brambles)

Brambles produce biennial canes meaning that the canes emerge the first year and do not produce fruit. The second-year canes produce fruit and after that will never produce again. The key to healthy productive brambles is to remove canes that are three years old and older. This will initiate more young canes leading to more fruit production in future years.

Pruning Blueberries

Blueberries require very little pruning, only an occasional shaping to keep them in the desired form

Strawberry Maintenance

It is important to keep weeds out of the strawberry patch. Weed regularly and keep the strawberries mulched well. Remove older plants as they become less productive and replace them with a new plantlet that has grown from the original plant.

Pollination

Apples, pears, plums, sweet cherries, and blueberries require a pollinator. A pollinating partner must be a different variety of the same species. Two species of the same variety will not pollinate each other. For example, you will need two different varieties of apples to pollinate each other. When selecting a pollinator make sure that the bloom times are similar or overlap. Ideally The pollinators should be within fifty feet of each other although plants can pollinate each other from several hundred yards away if pollinating insects are present.

Nectarines, peaches, sour cherries, and brambles do not require pollinators. Although a pollinator is not required fruit production will increase with a pollinator present.

Article written by

Botanical Brian, Nursery Manager

Related Links:

Planting Apple Trees

In that part of the country within USDA Zones 6 to 8, you can begin planting apple trees either in the early spring (before they leaf out) or in the late fall (after they’ve gone dormant). North of Zone 6, however, apple planting is pretty much limited to springtime . . . since the bitter winter weather in such areas would kill newly planted trees. (Most apples do poorly in the very warm Zones 9 and 10: There just isn’t enough winter chilling to satisfy the plants’ dormancy needs.)

There are only a few rules to be followed in planting, but they are important and should be observed closely. First, it’s essential that the roots never dry out: Keep the tree out of the sun and wind, and make sure the roots are damp until they’re safely underground. Next, dig a big hole . . . at least twice as wide and deep as the natural spread of the roots. (Of course, the graft between the rootstock and the scionwood must be above the ground: Otherwise the scion will send down its own roots, and the dwarfing action of the rootstock will be defeat ed.) Pack topsoil firmly around the roots, and trickle a bucket of water around the trunk after the hole is filled in. If you’re planting a tree on Malling IX rootstock, it’s going to need support, so drive a stake in now . . . and be sure to place a hardware cloth collar around the base of all trees to fend off hungry mice and rabbits.

Freshly planted apple trees should be pruned in order to compensate for the loss of feeder roots during transplanting. If you’re growing one-year-old whips, simply cut the above-ground portion of the stem back about a third. Branched trees ought to be pruned to four or five strong branches . . . and then even these stems should be cut back to 3/4 their original length.

In future years, it’s best to follow the recommendations of a good pruning manual: One that we’ve used is Pruning Simplified by Lewis Hill (Rodale Press, 1979).

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The 5 Top Fruit Trees for New Jersey

Fruit trees are great for sprucing up a dull yard, attracting those ever important honey bees, and providing yummy fruit to eat! If you can freeze them or can them these fruits will make a great cobbler or pie all year round! Sometimes it’s tough to decide which fruit trees to plant, but if you live in New Jersey this is THE list for you. Here are the 5 Top Fruit Trees for NJ:

Pear

Anjou, Bartlett, and Bosc are great for a NJ climate. Plant them about 20-30 feet apart on a hill or slope (they love good drainage). You’ll need to be sure you’ve got your canning supplies ready though because two pear trees (you must have two to pollinate) can produce up to sixty pounds of fruit a year! Pear trees are susceptible to blight though, so keep a steady watch on those leaves.

Who doesn’t love fresh apples in the fall? Like the pears, you’re going to need two apple trees for pollination, but not necessarily the same variety of apple! Some of the best ones for New Jersey are Golden Delicious, Honeycrisp, red McIntosh, and Gala. Apple trees are most sensitive to fungus, so watch the leaves for rust colored spots.

Peach

New Jersey is one of the leading up-and-comers on the peach front. These make sweet, soft, and fuzzy fruits in the summer heat and will be beautiful all spring long! These trees don’t live as long as other varieties though, so they are great if you don’t want to commit to buckets of peaches for all of eternity. They will provide fruit for about 15-20 years.

Nectarine

The nectarine is awesome if you like the taste of peaches, but aren’t in love with the fuzzy skin. You only need to grow one of these beautiful trees because they are self-fruiting, but make sure to give them plenty of water – nectarines love to soak it up!

Cherry

Montmorency, the English Morello and the Early Richmond are some of the best cherries for the New Jersey climate if you like a sour pucker! These are smaller trees and you only need one, so they’re perfect if you don’t have a lot of space. They’re drought resistance makes them a low maintenance but yummy choice! They do need a frosty winter to produce cherries, so if you don’t get any in a particular season, don’t dig up your tree! Just wait for next year!

Whichever you decide is the fruit tree (or trees) for you just remember to water regularly and prune as needed. If you think you might need a professional opinion just contact us at Trees unlimited and we’d be happy to help! Happy growing!

About the author

Justin Shaw

It’s doubtful you’ll find anyone with more of a passion for tree care than Justin Shaw. To him, removing a tree is always the very last resort no matter how difficult and challenging the effort to preserve it. Though he has degrees in finance and economics, Justin decided to follow his passion and with an additional degree in urban tree management, launched Trees Unlimited, LLC in Wayne, NJ. Justin is also a Certified Arborist and Certified Tree Safety Professional.

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