Flower in the swamp

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A Flower in the Swamp

A Flower in the Swamp
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A Flower in the Swamp is a quest in Pathfinder: Kingmaker.

Synopsis

The elf Kimo Tavon has asked for a rare flower of unmatched beauty that his hunter friend told him about. It grows somewhere deep in the heart of the Narlmarches.

Walkthrough

  • Speak with Kimo Tavon in your 4th town, and he asks you to retrieve a flower from the swamp, in the “heart of the narlmarches”
  • Travel to the map area “Swamp Witch’s Hut”
  • Once there, make your way to the northeast area of the map
  • Near some bushes, you’ll pass a perception check to discover a hidden path
  • Pass an athletics check to enter the hidden area and fight 3 owlbears
  • At the top of the area should be the bush you need to harvest
  • Retrieve the Rare Bog Flower and return to Kimo
  • Speak with him again and present the flower to him
  • He’ll give you a Masterwork Longspear and 600 exp.
  • He’ll ask if he can stay there
    • Build him a workshop
    • Refuse

(Note: The name of the workshop doesn’t match the name of the crafter. It says “Kimiel’s Shop” and not “Kimo’s shop”. Talking to Kimo reveals that Kimiel is his real name, Kimo is just a nickname)

  • If you choose to build his workshop it will take 10 days to finish
  • Return to Kimo after that time and speak with him again

Speak to Kimo Tavon in your fourth town — he will ask you to retrieve a flower from the swamp. Head to the Swamp Witch’s Hut location. Once there, go to the northeast part of the map. You will need to pass a perception check near some bushes to discover a secret path. Pass an athletics check to enter the hidden area and fight three enemies.

At the top of the area, there will be a bush you need to loot. Retrieve the Rare Bog Flower and return to Kimo. Talk to him and give him the flower. In return, you will receive 600 XP and a Masterwork Longspear.

Kimo will ask if he can stay there. You can either build him a workshop or refuse. Note that the name of the workshop will not match the name of the master. Turns out that Kimo is just a nickname, while his real name is Kimiel. If you decide to build him a workshop, it will take 10 days to complete. Then return to Kimo and talk to him again.

More of this sort of thing:

  • Pathfinder: Kingmaker – The Court Alchemist Walkthrough
  • Pathfinder: Kingmaker – Forsaken Mound Walkthrough
  • Pathfinder: Kingmaker – Linzi Quest Walkthrough
  • Pathfinder: Kingmaker – Troll Clearing Walkthrough
  • Pathfinder: Kingmaker – Secluded Lodge Walkthrough

Pathfinder: Kingmaker is now available on PC. it is an isometric CRPG story rich fantasy game based on the Paizo’s Pathfinder but takes many gameplay inspiration from Arcanum, Baldur’s Gate and Fallout 1 and 2.

The story of the game is set in the Stolen Lands which is part of the greater region of the River Kingdoms and Golarion the default setting of Pathfinder. you along with your party will create your own kingdom by conquering the land and building an empire as a Lord.

Guide To Crafters And Masterpieces Quest In Pathfinder: Kingmaker

While progressing through the game you will be meet many crafters which have their own respective quests and rewards.

So in this guide, you will learn about the details of all the Crafters and Masterpieces which will help you better utilize them.

Below you will find a list of all the Crafters and masterpieces and how to complete their respective quests.

Just note that many quests are bugged which effects the outcome and the location of certain items. so if you want to progress properly you need to wait for an update.

Bokken

Location: Olegs Trading Post – Receive Potion and monthly choice of an Alchemical Item, Oil, Ointment.

Encounter – after being ennobled you are asked to hire Bokken as your court alchemist. to hire him, go to the Oleg’s Trading Post. after hiring do the following step.

  • Build Bokken a workshop in your town in the Outskirts.
  • Give Bokken the three books he asks you.

Location of all the parts are listed below. you need to give him three parts only.

  • Of Transmutations & Bodily Poisons Part 1 – in the Abandoned Hut, place herbs in the druid’s chest.
  • Of Transmutations & Bodily Poisons Part 1 – in the Swamp Witch Hut, it is sold by Beldame.
  • Of Transmutations & Bodily Poisons Part 2 – sold by Bokken.
  • Of Transmutations & Bodily Poisons Part 2 – in the Stag Lord’s Fort, place herbs into the mad druid’s chest.
  • Of Transmutations & Bodily Poisons Part 2 – in the Crag Linnorm cave.
  • Of Transmutations & Bodily Poisons Part 3 – in the body present in Verdant Chambers across the ravine from the entrance.
  • Of Transmutations & Bodily Poisons Part 3 – in the body present in Loney Barrow, first chamber.

After giving him the three parts do the following

  • Wait for a letter from Svetlana and return to Bokken.
  • Test the potion on the dog or bluff Bokken.
  • Test the potion on the wererats – present slightly east of the Abandoned Hut, there you can choose any dialogue choice.
Dragn

Capital & S. Narl – Lawbringer and monthly choice of a 1 hand Axe, 1 hand Hammer, Crossbow, Metal Shield, Plate Armor, or item of Dwarvish.

Encounter – Dragn will automatically call on the Baron after the Troll questline and do the following in Pathfinder: Kingmaker.

  • Build Dragn a workshop in your town in the S. Narlmarches.
  • Speak to Dragn in the capital or in the Southern Narlmarches town.
  • You will be asked to purchase back his grandfather’s broken armor.

Location of Broken Armor Pieces

  • Lawbringer Cuirass – from Hassuf in Capital for 100gp.
  • Lawbringer Jambarts – from Oleg in Oleg’s Trading Post for 500gp.
  • Lawbringer Gauntlets – from Dumra in Secluded Lodge for 100gp.

Once you get the all the pieces do the following

  • Return all the Lawbringers parts to Dragn.
  • Speak to Dragn after he delivers you a piece of gear.
  • Head to the Thorn Ford and recover the armor, then return it to Dragn.
  • Speak to Dragn at the next monthly interaction and tell him to get to work.
Kimo Tavon

N.Narl. – Bow and monthly choice of a Quarterstaff, Quiver, Spear, Wooden Shield.

Encounter – Speak to Kimo Tavon in the town of N. Narl and then do the following steps.

  • Find a beautiful flower in the swamp – You can find the flower in the northeast corner of the Swamp Witch’s Hut in a small area accessible with a perception and athletics check.
  • The flower is guarded by Powerful Owlbears guard the flower, so be careful
  • After the Return to Kimo.
  • Then Complete event card “Bog Mischief”
Nazrielle

Kamelands – Bastard Sword and a monthly choice of a Dagger(Invisible & Deadly), Sword(Swift & Tough), Flexible & Sturdy Chainmail, an Item of Swiftness or Elven Metalwork.

Encounter – Speak to Nazrielle in the town of Kamelands and then do the following.

  • First, build a workshop for Nazrielle.
  • Wait for Nazrielle’s first gift and then go speak to him.
  • Find the stolen blade – it is located in Bridge over Gudrin River, northwest corner,
  • Once you get it, return to Nazrielle.
  • Then Complete event card “Accursed Things”
  • Once again speak to Nazrielle and hunt down Sartayne – it is present in Capital, east of Arsinoe.
  • From here you can Choose to kill or support Sartayne.
  • Killing her would continue Nazrielle’s Path
  • Wait for Nazrielle’s next gift.
Shaniy’a

S. Narl – Monk Item and a random monk weapon every month.

Encounter – Speak to Sharel in your town in the N. Narlmarches. after this do the following in Pathfinder: Kingmaker.

  • Speak to Hassuf in the Capital to acquire proof of Sharel’s innocence.
  • Return to Sharel and dismiss the allegation.
  • Build a workshop for him in your town in the N. Narlmarches.
  • Wait for the first gift and then return to Sharel.
  • Find the location ‘Poachers Camp’ in the “heart of the narlmarches”
Varrask

Kamelands – Earthbreaker and monthly choice of a 2 hand Axe, 2 hand Mace, 2 hand Sword, Armor, Kellid or Orcish weapon.

Encounter – Speak to Varrask in the town of Kamelands and then do the following in Pathfinder: Kingmaker.

  • Purchase his tools from the trader in Kamelands
  • Speak to Varrask and then build a workshop for him.
  • Wait for Varrask to bring the first gift for you.
  • Then Return to Varrask and find some Inubrix – it is located in the Technic League Encampment in the center of the narlmarches.
  • Finally, Return to Varrask and hand over the Inubrix.
  • Then go to the Secluded Lodge to find the 3 fingered witch.

Check out more Pathfinder: Kingmaker guide below

  • Location Of All Artifacts And Bonuses
  • Guide To All Races Attributes
  • How To Recruit/ Unlock All Characters
  • Guide For All The Class

Turn your yard from swampy to swanky with these moisture-loving plants

If you were to convert the recent monster snowstorm to a rainfall equivalent, you would get an amount of precipitation of a floodlike two inches, and probably more.

The storm’s powdery nature seemed to spare us widespread breakage of trees and shrubs and for a while brought other blessings. It formed a protective blanket for precocious daffodils and hellebores, and it forced us all to slow down and look up from our screens.

In addition, its steady thaw allowed the garden to absorb the moisture at a reasonably gentle rate while sparing us the flooding and erosion normally associated with a deluge.

However, the soil is now pretty saturated, and gardeners keen to attend to pruning and ground work before March must bide their time: Sodden soil should not be turned, amended or otherwise worked. Just walking on lawns or, worse, garden beds, will compact and compromise the soil and its microbial life.

Ostrich ferns form vigorous stands in moist areas and are good for covering large areas. (American Meadows)

Many of us deal with areas of squishy soil most of the year; the key is to turn this challenge to your advantage. Such locations are often at the low point of a yard, underlaid with heavy clay and at the receiving end of rainwater that sheets down a slope or is funneled by a swale. These are areas that don’t dry out much unless there is a prolonged dry spell. I have such an area, strangely, at the top of a hill where water seeps from buried layers of clay.

Most of us with these afflictions tend to ignore the swamp and wonder why the turf is struggling amid the spreading moss and ground ivy.

There are other options. You can install elaborate drainage, assuming you have a place to send the water, or you can build raised beds. The latter always look forced and unnatural and may not give the selected plants the drainage they need, especially as the beds settle over time.

I find another course to be the most appealing: To remove ailing areas of lawn, take out failing plants and choose new ones that will abide the wetness.

The resulting swanky swamp is inherently natural-looking and should not be confused with a rain garden, an ecologically minded feature that is designed to trap water from roofs, driveways and the like and hold it until it soaks away.

Environmental designers think a lot about the hydrology of a rain garden but not enough about its horticultural or aesthetic aspects, judging by the ones I have seen. These gardens suffer from two fundamental problems: The initial planting is feeble, with too few plants and too little sense of plant layering, and when plantings die off or need tweaking, they don’t get the follow-up care they need. The failure rate of plants is inherently greater in extreme environments, and no garden worth having is not adjusted as needed. Another snag is that rain gardens often are mulched with heavy stone — this is to stop soil from washing away in a flood — but the pebbles only draw attention to an awkward landscape feature.

Bald cypress perform well in moist ground, especially new varieties such as Lindsey’s Skyward, which is upright and relatively compact. (Monrovia)

The creator of a swanky swamp can learn from these deficiencies.

If I had a large, wet area, I would start with trees and could happily pick some native hardwoods such as the blackgum, a red maple variety, or bottomland oaks such as the pin oak, possum oak or swamp white oak. But what I would actually love to create is a grove of bald cypress or the somewhat smaller pond cypress. For smaller gardens, plant breeders have developed upright, narrow versions. Prairie Sentinel is a pond cypress variety that after 10 years gets to about 15 feet high and 6 feet wide. Lindsey’s Skyward is a bald cypress that matures in the garden at about 20 feet while still just 6 feet across. The species, by contrast, might get three times as large — great if you have the room.

Big trees need the company of smaller trees or large shrubs, and my ideal garden would include serviceberries, which form multi-stemmed thickets of variable size and understated beauty, with white blossoms around the dogwood time (but far more subtle) and fiery autumn color. I would leave room for the sweetbay magnolia; a well-shaped individual is as fine a specimen as you could find. If you don’t have the space for big trees, you could use the serviceberry, sweetbay magnolia and perhaps the common winterberry in that architectural role.

There are several wonderful varieties of the inkberry, a suckering, evergreen holly that is great as an informal hedge. It isn’t used as much as it should be. The Lindera, or spicebush, is a medium to large native shrub and one of the first to flower in early spring, with cheery yellow-green flowers on naked branches.

Once you have created these bones with trees and shrubs, you can fill in the gaps with perennials and ground covers. Perennials that like swampy conditions tend not to be demure; they are tall, lanky and often showy in flower. For sheer exhibitionism, you can’t beat the hardy hibiscus, which appears in high summer when other things are flagging from the heat and humidity. The flowers of Hibiscus moescheutos are nothing short of outrageous. When you see a bee with Coke-bottle glasses, you can be sure it’s making its way to the hibiscus.

The related Hibiscus coccineus, with red blooms with thinner petals, is a little less torrid, but not by much. Other large perennials for such a place might include the ironweed, a mammoth daisy named Inula magnifica and the Joe Pye weed. Medium-size lovelies include the Euphorbia palustris, mountain fleeceflower (Persicaria amplexicaulis Firetail) and the native turtlehead.

Wetlands lend themselves to primal-looking plants; after all, this is the terrain where we traded in our flippers for claws.

If you are looking to cover large areas, you could plant ostrich fern or the cinnamon fern, which is less of a bully.

Just know that if you plant the scouring rush or horsetail — Equisetum — it is forever. It is long in root and in memory, a plant that remembers the dinosaurs.

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Wet soil can be a challenge for even the most experienced gardeners. Here are some tips for growing in wet soil and 12 perennial crops to try.

This article may contain affiliate links. Please read my disclosure for more info.

My backyard gently slopes away from the house, which is a good thing for keeping the basement dry.

But when it rains, water rushes away from the house and pools up in certain low spots that became boggy. Whatever I planted there seemed to just limp along. So I started researching ways to manage this problem.

When I used the following tips for growing in wet soil and selecting the right crops, my garden was a lot more successful. Now, those wet areas are some of my favorites in the garden!

Growing in Wet Soil

Growing in saturated soil is a challenge because it can drown plant roots, which require oxygen to breathe. This can lead roots to rot, fungal diseases to develop, and ultimately, spell death for the plant.

If you have an area with wet soil in mind for planting, the soil should drain 24-48 hours after a rain.

If your growing area meets this qualification, take heart! By managing the growing area properly and planting the right crops, this challenging site can become a cherished and productive garden area.

Raised planting areas are a good idea, because they allow your wet-tolerant crops to access the water as well as oxygen for healthy roots and proper uptake of nutrients. Try planting berms on contour or raised beds.

In addition to preparing a successful planting area, there are plenty of edible crops to choose from.

The following crops may adapt to having temporary wet feet and may grow in those areas that become boggy directly after a rain. Just be sure that those areas drain soon afterwards and dry out between rains.

12 Crops for Wet Soil

Now for the fun part: Planting your wet-soil garden and reaping a harvest!

#1: Aronia Berry (Aronia Melanocarpa, common name: black chokeberry)

Aronia berry has recently been dubbed a superfood for its high antioxidant content, even more than blueberries or elderberries.

Because they are a tart berry, they are most often frozen for use in smoothies, or made into preserves, liquors, or any other way you enjoy using tart berries. Aronia enjoys acidic soil.

Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-8
Sun Exposure: Full to partial sun
Size: 3-6 feet tall
Wildlife: Birds enjoy the berries, but is deer resistant (protect when young).
Harvest window: Late summer through early fall.

Read more about growing aronia in my article All About Aronia: Grow Your Own Superfood Berries.

Aronia berries

Photo by Wendy Cutler via Flickr

#2: Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis)

A common garden crop, few people know that asparagus can tolerate temporary wet soil. Wild asparagus is often found growing in ditches.

USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-8
Sun Exposure: Full sun
Size: 3-5 feet tall
Wildlife: Much like humans, deer will enjoy those tasty spring shoots, but they will not bother the mature asparagus fronds.
Harvest window: February through July.

Here is the variety of asparagus that I like to grow.

Would you like to learn more about using edible perennials to improve the biodiversity of your garden, reduce maintenance, and increase yield?

You’ll find loads of information just like this in my award-winning book, The Suburban Micro-Farm.

#3: Highbush Cranberry (Viburnum Trilobum)

Native to northern North America, highbush cranberry is not related to the more common cranberry sold in grocery stores (Vaccinium macrocarpon), although it resembles it in both appearance and flavor.

With an astringent taste, these berries will soften when frozen then thawed, and are best enjoyed prepared in preserves. Substitute them for regular cranberry sauce!

Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-7
Sun Exposure: Full to partial sun
Size: 6-12 feet tall; can be pruned
Wildlife: Not particularly favored by wildlife, but if they are left on the bush, will be eaten by birds and deer later in the winter.
Harvest window: Late summer to early fall.

Highbush cranberry

Photo by InAweofGod’sCreation via Flickr

#4: Lowbush Cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon, cranberry)

This is the typical cranberry found in grocery stores, and is commercially grown in artificial bogs. Requires acidic soil.

Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-7
Sun Exposure: Full sun
Size: 4-10 inches tall
Wildlife: Birds and other rodents who seek shelter in this low growing plant enjoy the berries. Pollinators appreciate the flowers.
Harvest window: Mid to late fall.

#5: Fox Grape (Vitis labrusca)

The fox grape is native to eastern North America and is well known for its popular red ‘Concord’ grape and the white ‘Niagara’ grape used for table grapes, juices, and jellies.

Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-8
Sun Exposure: Full sun
Size: Left to their own volition, grapevines will go on indefinitely. Grapes cultivated in the garden are usually grown on an arbor.
Wildlife: Many birds and mammals enjoy the berries. Protect while young. Pollinators enjoy flowers.
Harvest window: Late summer to early fall.

Concord grape

Photo by D. Calvin Andrus via Flickr

#6: Mint (mentha, spp.)

Mint family plants are especially tolerant to areas with wet soil. Mint is versatile in the kitchen, too, and can be used with many dishes from savory to dessert, from fruits and ice cream, to meat-based entrees.

But watch out! It will keep running like Forrest Gump and take over your garden. It will even defiantly grow through the drainage holes of a pot to root itself in the ground. That said, it will cover a barren area and reduce erosion.

USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-10
Sun Exposure: Full to partial sun
Size: 2-3 feet
Wildlife: Because of its strong scent, mint is not enjoyed by wildlife. Pollinators and lacewings enjoy the flowers.
Harvest window: All growing season. It will typically die back in the winter. Keep flowers pruned for best mint flavor, or let the flowers bloom to attract pollinators.

#7: Persimmon (Diospyros, spp, Kaki or Japanese persimmon, American persimmon)

Persimmon is a tree fruit. Kaki or Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki) is more common in the marketplace, but American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) is seeing a revival by those with an interest in conserving and appreciating native plant species. Eat when soft and ripe.

USDA Hardiness Zones:

  • Kaki: 7-10
  • American: 5-9

Sun Exposure: full sun
Size:

  • Kaki: 25-40 feet
  • American: 50-75

Wildlife: The fruit is prized by all manner of animals. It is also the host plant for the caterpillar of the luna moth.
Harvest window: Fall-early winter. Harvest when soft and ripe. American persimmons are usually harvested after a hard frost when they ripen quickly and fall to the ground, but to avoid bruising they can be picked when fully colored yet still firm, and allowed to ripen off the tree.

American persimmon

Photo by The Fruit Nut

#8: American Red Raspberry (Rubus idaeus var. strigosus)

This North American native is more tolerant to wet soil than other varieties of raspberries.

Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 2-8
Sun Exposure: full sun to full shade
Size: 3-6 feet
Wildlife: Many birds and small mammals enjoy the berries, while deer and other herbivores will browse the leaves.
Harvest window: The canes are typically ever-bearing, producing a crop mid-summer as well as in the fall.

#9: Rhubarb (Rheum x cultorum, garden rhubarb)

Rhubarb is a perennial herb known for its edible stalks. The large leaves—although poisonous—shade the soil and make a nice living mulch.

Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 1-9
Sun Exposure: full to partial sun
Size: 3-5 feet
Wildlife: Not a known food source for wildlife.
Harvest window: Rhubarb is harvested in the spring when the stalks are 8-10 inches long. Leave at least two stalks per plant to keep plants growing from one year to the next. Do not harvest based on color.

#10: Shellbark Hickory (Carya laciniosa)

This large hardwood tree is typically found in bottomlands and floodplains. Although a slow-grower, it produces the largest and best-tasting hickory nut in its native North America.

Pollination: Self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9
Sun Exposure: full sun
Size: 75-100 feet
Wildlife: Game birds and small mammals enjoy the nuts. Protect the trees while young.
Harvest window: Fall

Shellbark hickory

Photo by University of Guelph

#11: Strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa)

Strawberries are a common, delicious fruit. Strawberry isn’t as tolerant to wet soil as other plants listed here. The soil MUST drain within 24 hours.

Pollination: Mostly self-fertile but attract insect pollinators for better fruit set.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3-10
Sun Exposure: full sun
Size: 6-12 inches
Wildlife: Almost all birds and mammals will enjoy strawberries as much as humans.
Harvest window: Strawberry harvests range from late spring to early summer for June-bearing varieties, and into fall for everbearing varieties.

I like to grow the variety ‘Seascape‘.

My raised planting berm of strawberry plants collects water from the roof.

#12: Taro (Colocasia esculenta)

Taro is a tropical plant grown most often for its edible roots, while the leaves can be eaten like spinach. Both must be cooked well before eaten.

Pollination: self-fertile
USDA Hardiness Zones: 7-10
Sun Exposure: full sun to partial shade
Size: 4-5 feet
Wildlife: Said to be deer and rabbit resistant, although this doesn’t mean its deer and rabbit proof.
Harvest window: Harvest the tubers before the first frost. The leaves can be harvested as soon as they open, but leave some on the plant so it can regrow.

SUMMARY:

Although wet soil can present a challenge for gardeners, all hope is not lost. There are plenty of ways we can improve the soil, and plenty of crops to choose from.

READ NEXT:

  • 5 Spring Ephemerals for the Permaculture Garden
  • How to Grow and Use Currants
  • How to Plant a Hedgerow

What perennial crops have you grown successfully in wet soil?

Marsh and Wetland Plants

In general, the plants that “belong” near the lagoon (in the wetlands) are low-growing and salt-tolerant, with floppy stems (not erect) and having special ways of growing in salty soil and of ridding themselves of excess salt.

The following plants are native except where indicated.

Pickleweed

Common Name: Pickleweed

Scientific Name: Sarcocornia pacifica

Size/Location: Usually less than a foot and a half tall; spreading

Comments: S. pacifica is a perennial but loses its fleshiness as the tips accumulate excess salt, turn red, and drop off when the plants turns brown and goes dormant in the winter.

Alkali Heath

Common Name: Alkali Heath

Scientific Name: Frankenia salina

Size/Location: Low-growing; abundant in coastal salt marshes.

Comments: A bushy perennial with small leaves and small but conspicuous fleshy, tubular pink flowers. It has a woody base and a mat-like appearance.

Saltgrass

Common Name: Saltgrass

Scientific Name: Distichlis spicata

Size/Location: Throughout; sprawling short stems with wiry stiff spikes for leaves; about 3-4 in tall

Comments: Very common on or near the path (the upper marsh and not right in the water) because it doesn’t like to be wet too much (although it must have salty soil or water).

Alkali Weed

Common Name: Alakali Weed

Scientific Name:Cressa truxillensis

Size/Location: Small and low-growing in saline and alkaline soils.

Comments: Leaves and stems are gray-green, wooly and soft; hard to see. The white flowers are in the morning-glory family. Can be invasive.

Salty Susan

Common Name: Salty Susan

Scientific Name:Jaumea carnosa

Size/Location: Low (less than 6″), spreading perennial, in wet areas.

Comments: Shiny, fleshy leaves on very long stems; found on lagoon-side of the trail. It belongs to the sunflower family but has small inconspicuous flowers. Jaumea is only found in saline habitats.

Cat-tail

Common Name: Cat-tail

Scientific Name:Typha spp.

Size/Location: Fresh water edges; tall with narrow grass-like leaves

Comments: Characteristic red-brown cigar-shaped clumps (of female flowers) in late summer. Should not be found in a saltwater lagoon, but present at Batiquitos Lagoon where fresh water comes in. They survive in the lagoon because they can tolerate a little bit of salt and are usually found near the edge with their roots in water but stems and leaves dry.

California Bulrush

Common Name: California Bulrush

Scientific Name:Scirpus californicus

Size/Location: Brackish water edges; grows up to 13 feet. Common in coastal marshes.

Comments:. Stems more three-sided than cylindrical. May be confused with cat-tails. Seeds, roots and stems important food for mammals and birds. Do not tolerate seasonal flooding.

Spiny Rush

Common Name: Spiny Rush

Scientific Name:Juncus acutus

Size/Location:Very stiff, sharp 3-5′ stems from base; usually between trail and water, but above water level

Comments: Statewide endangered plant because that kind of habitat is so often destroyed.

Fat Hen

Common Name: Fat Hen

Scientific Name:Atriplex triangularis

Size/Location:With other marsh plants but taller (up to 3 feet)

Comments: Intolerant of prolonged flooding. The leaves are distinctly triangular and pointed and turn red in the late summer and fall. They are thin but feel mealy, not smooth. Non-native.

Australian Saltbush

Common Name: Australian saltbush

Scientific Name:Atriplex semibaccata

Size/Location:Forms low mats near (even on) the trail

Comments:Toothed, gray-green, mealy-feeling leaves and likes alkaline soils. Prostrate (low). Non-native; invasive.

Common Tule

(not pictured)

Common Name: Common Tule

Scientific Name:Scirpus acutus

Size/Location:Similar to California bulrush

Comments:Round stiff stems.

Bulrush or Scirpus

(not pictured)

Common Name: Bulrush or Scirpus

Scientific Name:Scirpus microcarpus

Size/Location:2-5 feet; wet parts of trail (freshwater)

Comments:Round stem with flat “spikelets” and “flower”.

Cordgrass

(not pictured)

Common Name: Cordgrass

Scientific Name:Spartina foliosa

Size/Location:In water most of the time (not close to trail)

Comments:Recently planted far out on mudflats: hoped to thrive and provide home for Clapper Rails.

Natural Resources Conservation Service

Backyard Wetland

Wetlands filter excess pesticides and nutrients. Many plants and animals find a home in wetlands.

In Your Backyard

A mini-wetland in your yard can provide many of the same benefits that natural wetlands offer. A mini-wetland can replace the important natural functions of wetlands that may have been lost when your community was developed.

A wetland in your backyard will temporarily store, filter, and clean runoff water from your roof and lawn. It will provide habitat for many interesting creatures–from butterflies and bees to salamanders, toads, frogs, and birds.

Most wetland plants do not require standing water to grow successfully, and will survive even in an area that appears dry during most of the growing season.

If you have a naturally occurring wet spot in your yard, or a low swale or drainageway with heavy clay soils, you easily can turn it into a wetland paradise. Even if you do not have a naturally wet spot, you can establish an area in your yard to grow many of the beautiful plants associated with wetlands.

What Is a Wetland?

A wetland is simply any area where water covers the soil or keeps it saturated for at least two or three weeks during the growing season. You will usually find them anywhere water accumulates at a rate faster than it drains away. Some are inundated year-round while others only hold water for brief periods in the spring. Most wetlands are covered with water for less than a month during the summer. Wetlands dominated by grasses, cattails, and similar herbaceous vegetation are referred to as marshes, while wooded wetlands, dominated by shrubs and trees, are called swamps.

The saturation of the soil limits the types of plants you can grow to those with “wet feet.” How long the soil is saturated determines which wetland plants will grow best. There are many small wetland plants that grow quickly when the soil is wet in the spring and disappear when the soil dries up. Species like cattails, bulrushes, jewelweed, and the attractive cardinal flower do well where there are alternating wet and dry periods. These plants will survive persistent flooding as long as most of the leaves are out of the water. Water lilies and pond weeds grow well in permanently flooded ponds.

In your backyard, toads and tree frogs (spring peepers) will lay eggs and the pollywogs will mature where water only lasts 3 or 4 weeks; other frogs need longer periods. Where you have permanent water, the bullfrog pollywogs and small fish eliminate reproduction of most other frogs, toads, and salamanders. Mosquitoes will not survive in wetlands that dry out in less than a week after a summer rain or in wetlands connected to a deeper pond that supports small fish and large aquatic insects that feast on them.

Where to Put a Wetland

A natural depression or ditch that tends to stay wet is an ideal place to develop a wetland. Other areas with heavy clay soils that drain slowly may also be suitable. Better drained sites may require use of a plastic or other type of liner. Of course, if you are building a backyard pond, as discussed in another tip sheet in this series, a shallow area of saturated soil can be incorporated in the design. When selecting a site, consider:

  1. Is the site away from your foundation, out buildings, existing landscaping that you want to maintain, or neighboring properties that might be damaged by excessive moisture?
  2. Would there be a safety concern for neighborhood children?
  3. How will the site be integrated into your plan for maintenance?
  4. If you need supplemental water, is it readily available or can you use roof drainage?
  5. If there is an existing wetland, check state and local wetland regulations before altering it.
  6. Unless you completely own a ditch, check with local authorities before making any alterations. Be sure you won’t cause adjacent properties to flood.

Building a Wetland

Since wetlands refer to a variety of conditions, there is a lot of potential for including wetland plants in your yard. You may want a wetland that only stays wet for a short period after heavy rains or one that stays wet most of the time. It depends on the site and your desires. Establishing a wetland in your yard may be as simple as planting wetland plants in an existing wet area, or it may require the same effort needed to install a backyard pond.

Building a Wetland in an Existing Wet Area or Drainageway

In some instances, all you need to do is stop mowing during dry periods. Too often homeowners go to great lengths to establish plants that are not adapted to the site or to modify the site, when it would be more effective to use plants suited to the conditions. Numerous landscape plants are well adapted to wet conditions and will provide beauty as well as wildlife habitat. Be sure to check the growth and rooting characteristics of trees you want to plant. Many wet soil tolerant trees have shallow root systems or brittle branches and must be planted a safe distance from buildings.

Partially blocking a drainageway or small ditch to create your wetland by trapping storm water needs more planning. Where a low berm less than a foot high will create a small wetland, planning is not complicated if:

  • The drainage area above the berm is small, generally less than an acre;
  • There is adequate area for flood flows to go around and over the berm; and
  • The soil contains a high percentage of clay.

For sites requiring a higher berm, and those with a larger watershed, you need engineering advice. For sites with sandy soil or a lot of rocks, you also may need to install a plastic liner (described in the next section) under all or the lower portion of your wetland.

To construct the wetland with a small berm to hold back water for a few days or weeks:

  1. Put a stake in the center of the lowest portion of the drainageway where you want the berm.
  2. Using a level on a large board or string, place a stake where a level line reaches the ground on either side.
  3. Using the same type of level, mark how far back water will be impounded at the top of the berm.
  4. Remove any existing sod from an area about 4 feet wide along the line of the berm and over about half the area that will be flooded.
  5. Dig a trench about 1 foot deep along the center line of the berm and fill it with slightly damp heavy soil, packed down firmly.
  6. Build your berm about 4 feet wide at the bottom and 1 foot at the top. The center should be 4 to 6 inches higher than the ends to allow for settling and to force water flowing over it around the ends, reducing the likelihood of erosion.
  7. Cover the compacted berm with purchased grass sod or the sod you originally removed from the area.
  8. Plant wetland adapted plants in bands from the deepest areas to an area about six inches above the expected high water level, selected according to the degree of soil saturation they require.
Building a Separate Wetland

You can create a wetland in any level area and make it suitable for most wetland plants by digging out a depression, lining it with plastic, refilling it with soil, and adding water. After selecting the site, you should:

  1. Using a hose or rope, lay out the shape of your wetland. An irregular shape will appear the most natural. Sometimes a long narrow curving wetland will fit nicely into a landscape plan.
  2. Excavate an area 1-1/2 to 2 feet deep. The sides should slope gently to the deepest area.
  3. Put an inch of fine sand or lose soil in the bottom to prevent the plastic liner from being punctured by small stones.
  4. Line the depression with sheet plastic. Hold in place with heavy objects such as round stones. Or, install a pre-formed pool liner or use a child’s wading pool.
  5. If you live in a region with heavy annual rainfall, puncture the liner in several places with pencil-sized holes about halfway up the sides to allow slow drainage so the soil will not stay completely waterlogged for long periods.
  6. A. If you plan to grow common species of low maintenance plants adapted to moist soils in your area, fill the depression with a mixture of soil and peat. A significant amount of peat will help retain moisture and allow for aeration.
    B. If you intend to grow true bog plants that require acidic soils saturated with water most of the year, fill the area with a mixture of half peat and half humus. Also, you should fill the lower half of the depression with pea gravel or coarse sand to assure more even distribution of water. Burying a perforated pipe in the pea gravel connected to an upright pipe fitted with a hose connection will help add water evenly to the bog.
  7. Cover the edges of the plastic with soil to hide them and hold the liner in place.
Building a Wetland by a Backyard Pond

Putting a shallow wetland at one edge of your backyard pond will increase its value and attractiveness. If you are using a pre-formed liner for your pond, you may want to build the wetland as described above, with the water level slightly above the pond liner or the edge of the pond liner lowered a couple of inches to allow water to flow into the pond. This design filters sediment and other contaminants out of the water coming off your lawn or roof through the wetland before it enters the pond. The wetland area also protects fish and other aquatic life in the pond by removing any chlorine from city tap water you use.

Establishing plants

The plants you select for your wetland will depend on:

  • Length of time the soil will be saturated or covered with water,
  • Depth of the water,
  • Amount of sunlight on the site,
  • Climate,
  • Soil pH, and
  • Size of the wetland.

Select plants that are hardy for your area and provide the desired wildlife habitat and aesthetics. The species of plants most common in other wetlands in your area with similar flooding cycles will be easiest to grow and need the least maintenance.

Choosing and Establishing Plants for Ponds

To make part of your backyard like natural wetlands, use a mix of diverse plants. Most trees, shrubs, ferns, and many other plants grow best in soils that are only saturated early in the growing season and after heavy rains. Others, like the true bog plants, need almost continually saturated soil. Plants like water lilies need to be continually flooded. Once established, plants like cattails will thrive in water a couple feet deep, but also in areas that are wet for only short periods. However, most have a narrower tolerance range that may vary depending on where you live. Always check with your local nursery or other expert before making final decisions on what varieties to plant. Plants should always be purchased from a reliable source.

Native Trees Tolerant of Wet Soils
Native Shrubs Tolerant of Wet Soils
  • Red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea)
  • Leatherwood (Dirca palustris)
  • Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
  • Inkberry (Ilex glabra)
  • Pussy willow (Salix discolor)
  • Shrubby cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa)
Native Herbaceous and Flowering Plants for Sunny Moist or Boggy Conditions
  • Cattails (Typhus spp.)
  • Joe-Pye weed (Eupatorium maculatum)
  • Great blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica)
  • Ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis)
  • Blue flag iris (Iris versicolor)
  • Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum)
  • Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
  • Goldenrods (Solidago spp.)
  • Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris)
  • Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
  • Gentian spp.
Native Herbaceous and Flowering Plants for Shady Moist or Boggy Conditions
  • Bee balm (Monarda didyma)
  • Arrowhead (Sagittaris latifolia)
  • False hellebore (Veratrum viride)
  • Turtlehead (Chelone spp.)
  • Skunk cabbage (Symplocarpus foetidus)
  • Royal fern (Osmunda regalis)
  • Netted chain fern (Woodwardia areolata)
  • Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum)
  • Cinnamon fern (Osmunda cinnamonmea)
  • Shield ferns (Dropteris spp.)
  • Lady ferns (Athyrium spp.)
True Bog Plants Requiring Low pH and Sun
  • Sundews (Drosera spp.)
  • Butterworts (Pinguicula spp.)
  • Pitcher plants (Sarracenia spp.)

Numerous other native wetland species are available in most areas. There are also many species that have been naturalized in North America and are often considered native plants. Unfortunately, some of these species are more competitive and have become invasive, crowding out the native species that provide habitat for indigenous wildlife.

Safety

Locate the backyard wetland where it is unlikely to attract unattended children. Check local safety ordinances and building ordinances for restrictions and permits.

On the Farm

In the rural landscape, wetlands filter chemicals, excess nutrients, and sediment from flowing water, protecting streams and drinking water sources. They also provide habitat for many wildlife species.

Across the country, many farmers voluntarily return formerly drained wetlands in crop fields and pasture to fully functioning wetlands. Many of these acres were marginally productive and returning them to wetlands provides significant ecological, economic, water purification, and recreational benefits.

Many farmers enhance their wetlands with nesting structures for ducks and other birds, put in plants and annual seeding to provide winter food and cover for wildlife, and establish native wildflowers to make the landscape more attractive.

More About Backyard Conservation
The Natural Resources Conservation Service, National Association of Conservation Districts, and Wildlife Habitat Council encourage you to sign up in the “Backyard Conservation” program. To participate, use some of the conservation practices in your backyard that are showcased in this series of tip sheets — tree planting, wildlife habitat, backyard pond, backyard wetland, composting, mulching, nutrient management, terracing, water conservation, and pest management. Then, simply fill in the Backyard Conservation customer response card, send a Backyard e-mail request to [email protected], or call 1-888-LANDCARE.

< Back to Backyard Conservation

Swamp Plant With Flowers Stock Photos and Images

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  • marsh cranesbill (Geranium palustre), flowers with hoverfly, Germany
  • A frog sitting on a green lily pad
  • Purple water lily flowers in a Ugandan wetland, Africa
  • Scandinavia, Sweden, Oland, Flower floating on swamp, trees in background
  • Tall Goldenrod (Solidago altissima), seed stand, North Carolina, USA
  • lily pad and waterlily buds and sideways view
  • Scandinavia, Sweden, Oland, Flower floating on swamp, trees in background
  • Close up of Canivorous yellow pitcher plants flowers
  • of lily pad at dusk
  • dramatic fire sunrise over moosland with bog asphodel flowers
  • Bold marsh thistle or European swamp thistle, Cirsium palustre, white flowering plant in a downland meadow, Berkshire, June
  • lily pad and waterlily buds
  • Water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) and Salvinia completely covering the water surface in Atchafalaya Swamp
  • Swamp onion, Allium validum in flower in arsh, Sierra Nevada.
  • lily pad and waterlily buds
  • Golden yellow flowers and green leaves of Acacia elongata, swamp wattle, against dark background
  • plants flowers
  • Marsh marigold, Caltha palustris, with yellow flowers and bright green leaves in spring along ditch reflecting in the water
  • Rose Mallow plant also called Swamp Mallow and Hibiscus Moscheutos has giant red flowers the size of dinner plates and prefers partial shade
  • marsh grass-of-parnassus (Parnassia palustris), flower with ant, Germany
  • Detail of flower of swamp banksia (Banksia robur), Fraser Island World Heritage Area, Queensland, Australia
  • Narcissus tazetta (Paperwhite, Bunch-flowered Narcissus, Chinese Sacred Lily, Joss flower) in a swamp, israel
  • Water Violet, Featherfoil (Hottonia palustris), flowers.
  • Large red flowers of the swamp mallow hybrid Hibiscus ‘Oak Red’
  • Helonias bullata, Swamp Pink, fading flowers
  • Australian Swamp Bloodwood gum tree flowering with red eucalyptus flowers, foliage and gum nuts
  • Close up of Canivorous yellow pitcher plants flowers
  • Swamp Cicada (Neotibicen tibicen) Common Mullein (Verbascum thapsus) Flowers, Eastern USA
  • dramatic fire sunrise over moosland with bog asphodel flowers
  • Bold marsh thistle or European swamp thistle, Cirsium palustre, purple flowering plant in a downland meadow, Berkshire, July
  • Australian swamp stonecrop (Crassula helmsii) in flower. Invasive aquatic plant, aka New Zealand pygmyweed, in the family Crassulaceae
  • Salvinia and Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) completely covering the water surface in Atchafalaya Swamp
  • Giant Spider Lily or Swamp Lily, Crinum amabile, Amaryllidaceae, Sumatra, South East Asia.
  • the yellow flowers of the skunk cabbage lysichiton americanus plant in a wetland bog
  • Bright green leaves and purple and green flowers of a skunk cabbage plant emerging in a spring forest.
  • A Swamp Tiger or Black and White Tiger(Danaus affinis) drinking nectar / pollinating the white flowers of a milkweed plant(Gomphocarpus physocarpus).
  • Florida swamp-lily, Crinum americanum, in flower on edge of lake, Florida.
  • Water lilies, Okavango Delta, Botswana, Africa
  • high blueberry, highbush blueberry, swamp blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum), flowers
  • Starry Crinum purpurascens white flowers flower Amaryllidaceae Tropical plant swamp lily
  • A beautiful closeup of a swamp flowers. Macro photo of marsh foliage.
  • Early summer morning in a forest swamp covered with white flowers of wild rosemary
  • Purple Flowers
  • Helonias bullata, Swamp Pink, fading flowers, Gone to seed
  • Marsh marigold, Caltha palustris, with yellow flowers and bright green leaves in spring along ditch reflecting in the water
  • Close up of Canivorous yellow pitcher plants flowers
  • Wild-growing flowering plant caltha palustris yellow flowers with petals and stamens green leaves. Marigold grows in the swamp Lots of yellow flowers,
  • Flowers sprout out of a swampy reflection in the Florida Everglades.
  • Bold marsh thistle or European swamp thistle, Cirsium palustre, purple flowering plant in a downland meadow, Berkshire, July
  • Yellow Skunk Cabbage plants (Lysichiton americanus) invasive plant
  • Patch of Water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes} in manmade lake
  • Close-up of marsh irises by a lake in spring
  • the yellow flowers of the skunk cabbage lysichiton americanus plant in a wetland bog
  • Sawgrass (Cladium jamaicense), flowering – Topeekeegee Yugnee (TY) Park, Hollywood, Florida, USA
  • Eastern Skunk Cabbage Symplocarpus foetidus in bloom melting up through the snow of late Winter Eastern USA
  • Florida swamp-lily, Crinum americanum, in flower on edge of lake, Florida.
  • Water lilies, Okavango Delta, Botswana, Africa
  • Stud Flower, Swamp Pink (Helonias bullata), inflorescence
  • Yellow floating heart in swamp
  • A beautiful closeup of a swamp flowers. Macro photo of marsh foliage.
  • Marsh marigold before flowering in the flooded forest,spring flowers
  • Flowers of Ranunculus aquatilis outside of water on the wet soil
  • Swamp Pink, Helonias bullata, plant suitable for wet habitats – swamps and wetlands
  • Purple waterlily flowers in freshwater pond. Waterlily flowers are native to the temperate and tropical climates.
  • Close up of Venus flytrap or known as Dionaea muscipula growing in a pot with new growth plant – isolated
  • yellow flowers, Napa Valley, California, United States, North America
  • Flowers sprout out of a swampy reflection in the Florida Everglades.
  • Swamp or water morning glory (Ipomoea aquatica) flowers
  • Yellow Skunk Cabbage plants (Lysichiton americanus) invasive plant
  • Water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) in manmade lake
  • Close-up of marsh irises by a lake in spring
  • common swamp pitcher plant, nepenthes mirabilis
  • Bright green flowers and leaves of Melaleuca viridiflora – paperbark tree – an Australian native plant
  • Eastern Skunk Cabbage Symplocarpus foetidus in bloom melting up through the snow of late Winter Eastern USA
  • Clump of Golden-club, Orontium aquaticum, in Okefenokee Swamp, Georgia,
  • Water lilies, Okavango Delta, Botswana, Africa
  • Marsh gladiolus (Gladiolus palustris), flowers, Germany
  • Yellow floating heart in swamp
  • A beautiful closeup of a swamp flowers. Macro photo of marsh foliage.
  • Marsh marigold before flowering in the flooded forest,spring flowers
  • Flowers of Ranunculus aquatilis outside of water on the wet soil
  • Swamp Pink, Helonias bullata, plant suitable for wet habitats – swamps and wetlands
  • Smartweed
  • Close up of Canivorous yellow pitcher plants flowers
  • Swamp marigolds.
  • Buttonbush flowers
  • Water morning glory (Ipomoea aquatica) flowering, Luzon, Philippines
  • Yellow Skunk Cabbage plants (Lysichiton americanus) invasive plant
  • Water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) in Atchafalaya Swamp
  • Close-up of marsh irises by a lake in spring
  • sarracenia pitcher plant
  • White swamp lily
  • Eastern Skunk Cabbage Symplocarpus foetidus in bloom melting up through the snow of late Winter Eastern USA
  • Clump of Golden-club, Orontium aquaticum, in Okefenokee Swamp, Georgia,
  • Water lilies, Okavango Delta, Botswana, Africa
  • marsh marigold (Caltha palustris), flowers
  • Yellow floating heart in swamp
  • A beautiful closeup of a swamp flowers. Macro photo of marsh foliage.
  • Wild native irises flowers in a wetland. Iris is depicted in mythology by a rainbow.
  • Pattern water plant background. Botanical flora

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Plants

Estuarine Beggarstiick (Bidens bidentoides) (© MA Leck)

The Abbott Marshlands habitats support over 900 species of plants found to date, of which 30 are endangered, threatened or rare for New Jersey. Because species vary in tolerances to depth and duration of water, but also to amount of light and other environmental features, habitats differ in the kinds of plants found in each. Flowers often provide conspicuous clues to the species present.

Along the banks of the tidal rivers and creeks, just above the high tide line, grows New York Ironweed, which in late summer has dazzling purple flowers that are irresistible to butterflies. Sneezeweed, whose bright-yellow composite flowers are formed of a round cluster of disk flowers surrounded by notched petal-like ray flowers, can also be found in such locations.

In the shallow water of Spring Lake and Sturgeon Pond, the yellow flowers of Spatterdock (Yellow Pond Lily) and the purple spikes and heart-shaped leaves of Pickerelweed are common. At the pond edges grow Swamp Rose Mallow, Swamp Milkweed, and Swamp Rose, all of which produce conspicuous bright pink flowers during summer. Less conspicuous are the flowers of Bur-reed and Cattail. In addition to these emergent species, ponds have submerged species, such as bladderwort, which catches small animal prey, and tiny floating duckweeds. The latter are the smallest flowering plants in the world.

Swamp Rose (Rosa palustris) (© MA Leck)

The extensive tidal marsh communities are dominated by herbaceous (non-woody) species, including Cattail, Arrow Arum, Sweet Flag, and River Bulrush, all perennials, and annual species, such as Jewelweed, Water Hemp, and Bur Marigold, with Wild Rice common in poorly drained areas. Of these, Wild Rice and Bur Marigold are showy when flowering, and are best seen in late summer or autumn. The Wild Rice attracts flocks of blackbirds when its seeds ripen.

Bur Reed (Sparganium) (© Mary Anne Borge)

Shrub thickets are found as the transition is made from marsh to swamp. The flowers of Silky Dogwood and Swamp Azalea appear in spring, followed by Buttonbush and Elderberry in early summer. Beginning in spring and through autumn, a changing spectrum of flowers provides nectar and pollen for bees, hummingbirds, and other pollinators. Herbaceous flowers include Spring Bittercress, Canada Lily, and Turtlehead. Other woody species, such as Alder, Red Maple, and Swamp Ash may also appear in shrub thickets. In late autumn, the conspicuous red fruits of Winterberry, a shrub, are food for birds.

Turks Cap Lily

Still other species dominate in woodlands. In low-lying wet woods, trees such as Red Maple, Sweet Gum, Tupelo (Black Gum), and Pin Oak, are prevalent, and Spicebush and Arrowwood Viburnum dominate the shrub layer. Tulip Trees, Beech, and White, Chestnut, and Black Oaks are common in drier upland forests. These all set the stage for a spectacular display of color in autumn. In spring, ephemeral wildflowers of the understory abound and colors are subtle. These include blue and yellow Violets, delicate pink-striped Spring Beauty, nodding yellow Trout Lilies, white-flowered Mayapples, and pale cream bells of Wild Oats. Also during spring, ferns unfurl lush green fronds. In less disturbed woodlands along the bluffs, thickets of Mountain Laurel and Great Rhododendron may form the shrub layer, a feature that is unique for this part of New Jersey.

Yellow Violet (Viola sp.) (© Mary Anne Borge)

As seasons progress, wetlands and forests exhibit a broad color palette, reflecting the diverse plant species present. The Marshlands are a place where the mud flats of winter may be covered with 10-12 foot tall Wild Rice plants in August, where along trails carpets of Trout Lilies or Mayapples disappear by the end of spring, and where the water surface can be covered with the floating aquatic fern, Azolla, one year but not the next. Of the hundreds of species of plants found at the Abbott Marshlands, some are common, such as Jewelweed, but others, like Golden Club, occur in limited numbers only in one location. Each plant species has its own particular relationship to the marshlands and with other organisms.

For a list of the plants found at the Abbott Marshlands to date, download plant list by Common Name or Scientific Name.

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