Fig tree yellow leaves

Fig With Yellow Leaves – Reasons For Yellow Leaves On Fig Trees

Why are my fig leaves turning yellow? If you own a fig tree, yellow leaves will be a concern at some point in its life. Questions about yellow fig leaves show up every year on every gardening site and the answers often seem to contradict each other. But, if you look at the short list of the causes of yellow leaves on fig trees, they all have one thing in common: stress.

Fig trees and their sweet fruit are gaining popularity with home gardeners across the globe. Once confined to the regions around the Mediterranean Sea, figs are not found everywhere in the world where the winters are mild. The trees are relatively pest free and easy to propagate, so why does that one simple question keep popping up? Why are my fig leaves turning yellow?

Reasons for a Fig With Yellow Leaves

Just like people, plants can suffer from stress, and stress is the cause of those yellow leaves on fig trees. The trick is to discover the cause of the stress. There are four areas of stress that will give you a fig tree with yellow leaves.

Water

Water, or its lack, is probably the largest cause of stress for your fig tree. Yellow leaves can be the result of either too much or too little water. We gardeners need to remember where our fig trees originated.

The land around the Mediterranean is warm and dry. Fig tree roots grow close to the surface to absorb every drop of rain that falls. The water that isn’t absorbed quickly drains through the porous soil. To avoid yellow fig leaves, make sure your trees get water about once a week through rain or your garden hose. Plant your figs in soil that drains well and don’t incorporate moisture retaining additives to the soil when you transplant. Instead, mulch well around the base of your tree to retain more water on the surface.

Transplant shock

Has your fig with yellow leaves been transplanted lately? Transplanting from a pot or to a new place in the yard can be stressful and cause the loss of up to 20 percent of the foliage on your fig tree. Yellow leaves can also be the result of fluctuations in temperatures. Temperature changes from the nursery to your yard can be enough to cause leaf drop and if the nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees F. (10 C.) outside of the dormant season, the results will be yellow fig leaves.

The shock of transplanting normally rights itself, but you can also take steps to prevent transplant shock by ensuring proper planting requirements are met.

Fertilizer

Nitrogen is essential to healthy cell growth and division in plants. Without it, chloroplasts (the tiny cell structures that make your plant green) can’t provide enough nutrients and energy to your fig. Leaves turning yellow or yellow-green when environmental factors are normal may indicate a deficiency in nitrogen.

Yearly fertilization of figs should quickly cure the problem, but don’t expect your fig tree’s yellow leaves to turn green again. Those leaves must fall and be replaced by new, healthy green ones.

Pests

Lastly, insect infestation can cause yellow leaves on fig trees. Though rare on healthy trees, scale, spider mites and mealybugs can all cause enough damage to foliage to cause yellowing and leaf drop. Insecticides or insecticidal soap will easily cure the problem.

While yellow leaves on fig trees may be disturbing to the gardener, the condition isn’t fatal and with careful attention to the stresses your tree may be suffering, the condition should be easily cured.

Your yellowing leaves may be completely normal:

You may be worried about why you fiddle leaf fig trees’ leaves are turning yellow. Don’t worry, you’ve come to the right place! There could be a few reasons why this is happening to your tree. Before you give up all hope, below I will outline the most common reason for the yellowing leaves.

You may have nothing to worry about . If your plant looks healthy overall but there are one or two older leaves that are yellowing, this may be due to normal aging for your plant. It is very common for plants to drop older leaves after they begin to get older and start new growth. I have seen it many times in my plants, the older, smaller leaves, usually towards the bottom of the plant, will begin to turn yellow and brown and eventually fall off.

So if your plant looks happy and perky and, you’re giving it normal care, I would not worry too much as it is just normal leaf dropping due to aging. Continue reading for other causes of yelling leaves.

Environmental factors that can cause yellow leaves on your fiddle leaf fig:

There are plenty of environmental reasons that could be causing your yellowing problems. I will go over the most common problems that I see the most.

Not Enough Lighting:

The number one environmental factor that I see cause yellow leaves is not enough lighting. Your fiddle leaf fig loves the sun! Simply giving your fiddle proper sunlight may solve your problem and promote healthy growing.

Contrary to popular belief, fiddle leaf figs do great in high light and even full light environments! So give your fig tree the proper sun it needs and you will have a happy plant on your hands. I place mine in a south west facing window, so it gets plenty of sunlight.

Your plant may have root rot:

Root rot is very common for houseplants as people tend to over water their plants when they believe their plant is not getting enough water. Common signs of root rot in your fiddle are,

  • Drooping of the leaves.
  • Brown spots forming around the middle and edges of the leaves.
  • The leaves will most likely start to turn yellow.
  • Leaf drop start to happen faster as normal as well, the lower leaves tend to drop first before the rest.

To avoid root rot you should follow these steps to keep your plant happy and healthy.

  • Give your plant the proper amount of sunlight so it can properlly use the water.
  • Do not over water your plant, as too much water will sit at the roots of the plant and start to rot the roots.
  • Set a regular schedule for watering your fiddle leaf fig. The general rule is to water only once a week.
  • Wait a week between waterings. Check the top inch of the soil with your finger to see if it dry or not. If the soil is still moist you should wait a few more days until the top inch of the soil is dry to the touch.

You should try fertilizing your plant.

A lack of proper nutrients in your plants soil can cause yelling of the leaves. Your plant needs the proper amount of necessary nutrients in the soil to have healthy leaves. Many soils do not have the proper nutrients for the fiddle leaf fig and your plant may be starving.

In order to combat the lack of nutrients, you can add fertilizer to the soil. The type of fertilizer that you need for your fiddle must have the right NPK ratio. The proper NPK ratio for the fiddle leaf fig is 9:3:6. The NPK ratio is the ratio of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium in the fertilizer.

Luckily there is a fertilizer that you can buy that is perfect for your fiddle. Foliage Pro by Dyna-Gro has the perfect NPK ratio for the FLF. I use the fertilizer on all my FLFs and they are all loving it and growing healthily.

Six Ways to Tell if Your Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree is Healthy (… And What To Do If Your Plant is Sick)

Brown spots. Dropping leaves. Slow growth. There are a few common ailments of your fiddle leaf figs tree that can sicken or kill your prize plant. The good news is that most of these problems are easily cured if you know what to look for. Here are six ways to tell if your fiddle leaf fig tree is healthy and what to do if it’s not.

1. Are there brown spots on the leaves?

One of the most common problems with fiddle leaf fig trees is brown spots on the leaves. The cause can seem tricky to diagnose since there are two main culprits that are opposites: over and under watering. But it’s pretty easy to tell which sin is harming your plant if you take a closer look.

Are your brown spots starting in the middle of the leaf and spreading? This is likely caused by a fungal disorder due to overwatering. Keeping the roots too wet can lead to root rot, a fungus that will spread to the leaves and eventually kill your plant. If your plant has root rot, stop watering now, repot with proper drainage, and cut off the affected leaves.

Another option is to use a root rot treatment to help rid your fiddle leaf fig of root rot completely.

If your plant’s brown spots are starting on the edge of the leaves and spreading inward, the cause is likely dry air, drafts, and underwatering; basically a dry plant. Set a reminder to water your plant every single week and try to move it to a more humid area and away from dry air or heater vents.

Brown spots can also be caused by leaf trauma, which is common during shipping, so if your new plant arrives with injured leaves, cut them off at the stem and wait for your plant to recover.

To learn more about what brown spots on your fiddle leaf fig mean, read this comprehensive post about brown spots and how to treat them properly.

2. Are the new leaves smaller than the older leaves?

If your fiddle leaf fig tree has new growth, that’s a good sign. If the newest leaves are larger than the older leaves, that’s a great sign! This means that your plant is healthy enough to invest resources toward new growth.

If the new leaves are smaller than the existing leaves, it may be a sign that your plant doesn’t have the right nutrients to grow well. Focus on the fundamentals of watering properly, providing adequate sunlight, and feeding your plant with liquid fertilizer.

3. Is your fiddle leaf fig tree dropping leaves?

One common and serious problem is a plant that drops its leaves. This means you need to act fast to save your plant before it’s too late. There are a few causes to consider, basically underwatering and overwatering. How can you tell? If the oldest leaves towards the bottom of your plant are falling off first, it’s likely overwatering. If the leaves are falling off throughout the plant, it’s likely underwatering or too dry of an environment. Refer to the ultimate watering guide to fix your plant in a hurry.

4. Are the leaves turning yellow?

Yellow leaves on a fiddle leaf fig plant have three probable causes. The most likely is lack of sunlight, followed by poor nutrition. A third cause is an insect problem, but this is much less likely. If you suspect insects, look for small brown spots where the insects will attach to your plant and bleed the sap, causing the leaves to turn yellow and fall off.

More likely is too little sun and too much water, which will cause the yellowing of your plant’s leaves. Let your plant dry out and make sure it’s getting enough light. If you still have problems, make sure you are feeding your plant with liquid fertilizer at least every other time you water it so it has the nutrients it needs for dark green growth.

5. Does your fiddle leaf fig tree have stunted growth?

A healthy fiddle leaf fig tree should be putting out new leaves every 4 to 6 weeks during the growing season. Growth tends to be in spurts, where the plant will grow 2 to 4 new leaves in a matter of a few days. In the winter, it’s normal not to have any new growth. If your plant seems to have stunted growth, that’s a clue that it doesn’t have the resources it needs to thrive. Make sure it gets adequate sunlight and proper watering, then invest in a good plant fertilizer to give it the nutrients it needs for new growth.

6. Is your plant dirty or dusty?

In order to efficiently perform photosynthesis, your plant needs to absorb light through its leaves and breathe in carbon dioxide. If your plant is too dirty or dusty, it can have trouble breathing and absorbing light. Make sure you shower your plant every three to six months to keep it clean and healthy.

Once you figure out what is wrong with your fiddle leaf fig plant, it’s easy to correct your problem and put your plant on the fast track to health.

Be consistent with your plant’s care and be patient while it recovers. Look for consistent new growth of large, dark green leaves as signs of a healthy fiddle leaf fig tree.

Next Steps:

  • Read four things killing your fiddle leaf fig tree and how to save your plant from each deadly threat.
  • Read The Fiddle Leaf Fig Expert, your complete guide to growing healthy fiddle leaf fig plants. The book is available in full-color paperback or Kindle edition on Amazon now!

The fiddle-leaf fig is the cool kid in town. It’s graced the pages of House Beautiful, held court in the New York Times, and has been featured on every hip blog, from Popsugar to Gardenista. Who are we kidding, it’s so popular you probably already have one. The problem is that plants championed by the design world are generally selected for their good looks — not necessarily for how easy they are to maintain. So, the real question is: Do you know how to take care of it?

If you’re a novice in the world of green thumbery and want to successfully nourish your own fiddle-leaf fig, you must learn to think like a chimp. Or at least become a little more familiar with the African jungle habitat both the chimp and the fiddle leaf call home. These lowland jungles are dense, dark, warm, wet places and generally nothing like your home or apartment, but that doesn’t mean you should throw in the towel. Read on to learn the five most common mistakes with fiddle-leaf fig care, plus how to overcome them to grow a healthy, thriving plant.

1. Overwatering

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Watering is the simplest yet trickiest part of caring for plants — and it’s really easy to overdo it. In its native West Africa, the fiddle-leaf fig gets ample water in the form of rainfall, so try to emulate this meteorological reality by keeping the soil consistently moist but not soaking.

Chris Raimondi, president of the Raimondi Horticultural Group, warns against overwatering and suggests planting the fig in a well draining medium to combat potential problems. To water properly, wait until the top inch of soil is dry. Then, thoroughly drench until water comes out the bottom of the pot and leave it to slowly dry out again.

2. Underwatering

Too little is almost as bad as too much when it comes to water. Remember, you want your fig’s roots to be consistently moist — right at home in their mini West African jungle pot.

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Signs of underwatering include limp, floppy leaves. If you’ve gone way too long without watering, foliage will start to yellow, then brown, and then drop. The Missouri Botanical Garden recommends watering more as winter turns to spring to provide the plant with enough water for new growth.

3. Too Much Light

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The fiddle-leaf fig needs the kind of light most houses and apartments naturally provide — not too much, not too little, nothing too bright, nothing too dark. Harnek Singh, gardener at New York City’s Wave Hill Public Garden, recommends an east-facing window. “Fiddle leaf figs need lots of indirect light and some direct sun,” he says. “Afternoon sun from a south- or west-facing window will be too strong.”

So remember, just like the nourishing rays that filter down from the jungle’s dense canopy, your fig needs good sun in your home, too. Save the south-facing window for desert dwellers like cacti and succulents.

Singh also suggests purchasing fiddle-leaf figs from reputable buyers to avoid running into the opposite problem. “Many of these plants are often already on the decline from sitting in the dark too long,” he says. Signs of incorrect light exposure include flagging foliage and pale, spotty, or wan-looking leaves. If your plant exhibits these symptoms, try moving it to a new spot for a week or two.

4. Too Much Food

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Members of the fig genus Ficus tend to be gluttons for fertilizer. Not so with the fiddle leaf. Instead, try to mimic the natural seasons of growth for the fig in its new temperate home and fertilize only a handful of times a year — once in the spring and monthly throughout summer. Over-fertilization can cause plants to grow leggy and can even kill them. Scott Appell from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden recommends renewing the top several inches of soil with a fresh, nutrient-rich layer annually. Then dose with your favorite regular water-soluble fertilizer.

5. Too Cold Temps

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Although you may like the thermostat at a tepid 68 degrees, the fiddle leaf fig likes it hot (jungle, remember?). The plant will tolerate normal indoor temperatures just fine, but will falter if exposed to cold drafts. Unfortunately, the best light is generally found where all the drafts are: in front of big porch doors or next to windows. Do yourself a favor and seal up drafty areas before situating your fig.

Drafts also tend to dry rooms out, making your indoor habitat even less like the steamy, sticky African tropics figs know and like. Experts recommend misting the fiddle leaf’s leaves throughout the dry winter months to keep your plant sufficiently moist and happy.

How to Fix Yellow Fiddle Leaf Fig Leaves

One of the most common issues I see with fiddle leaf figs is yellowing leaves.

After all, fiddle leaf figs are famous for their large, beautiful green leaves, so yellowing leaves can really throw off your aesthetic.

So what do yellow leaves mean and how can you fix them?

In my experience, yellow leaves on a fiddle leaf fig usually mean one of two things:

A lack of light or fertilizer.

It can also be caused by a combination of too little light and too much water.

The pigment chlorophyll makes the leaves green in the first place, but a plant has to create chlorophyll. To do that, it needs energy and nutrients!

Plants get their energy from sunlight and nutrients present in the soil to produce chlorophyll. (Conversely, chlorophyll helps plants create energy from water, sunlight, and carbon dioxide.)

If your plant isn’t getting the energy or nutrients it needs, the leaves might start to lighten between the veins and turn a lighter green before turning bright yellow.

Yellow leaves can also be caused by root rot, which can lead to dropping leaves. If you think your plant has root rot, try our Root Supplement Treatment to stop it.

So how do you know whether it needs light or fertilizer?

An easy well to determine the cause of your yellowing leaves is simply a process of elimination and making the changes that carry the least risk.

In other words, start with light and water, and then move onto fertilizer if necessary.

Does it need light?

If your fiddle leaf fig doesn’t get much light, fix this before you add fertilizer.

Fiddle leaf figs love light and thrive near a bright window where they can get lots of indirect sunlight. If your plant is too deep in a room, adjust its location so that it gets the best light possible!

You can place it right in a north-facing window (these rarely get indirect sunlight) or near any other window where it won’t be directly in the sun’s rays, but will still get lots of light.

If you don’t have a great place for your fig to get lots of natural light, you might want to invest in some grow lights.

Also, make sure to check the soil. If the soil feels wet, you might want to let it dry out a little more between waterings. Overwatering and not enough light is a bad combination! (Here’s a guide to watering your fiddle leaf fig.)

Does it need fertilizer?

Most of us remember to water plants and give them good light, but we often forget that plants need nutrients to grow and be healthy! They may get their energy from sunlight, but they need nutrients to support the photosynthesis process. Think of fertilizer like a vitamin supplement for your plants!

If you’ve determined that your tree is getting the perfect amount of light and water, it might need fertilizer. In general, fiddle leaf figs need fertilizer at least every other week during the growing season.

Fiddle leaf figs grow during the spring and summer months, so it’s especially important to fertilize them then. If your plant gets yellow leaves during this time of year, it probably needs more fertilizer, especially if you haven’t noticed any new growth.

If you haven’t fertilized your fiddle leave fig for a while and it’s getting good light and the perfect amount of water, this is likely your cause. I love Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Food because it’s gentle enough to use each time you water without harming your plant, so you never have to remember a fertilizing schedule, and you’ll never risk undernourished, yellow leaves again!

Enjoy your happy, healthy fiddle leaf fig!

Fig Leaves Dropping Early?

Hopefully, by this time of year, most north Florida gardeners have harvested their figs and are enjoying fig preserves or fig bars. But if you’ve noticed your fig leaves dropping a little early, it may be a sign of the fungal disease Fig Rust (Cerotelium fici).

Figs are a great fruit tree for the north Florida home garden. Not only do they provide a tasty reward (if you can keep the birds and squirrels away), but they are fairly easy to maintain and are bothered by relatively few pests and diseases. One of the few diseases that can be common, however, is fig rust, especially when conditions are favorable. In the case of fig rust, a fungus, warm humid weather is what it likes and well, we have plenty of that.

Figs are a great fruit tree for North Florida. Credit: Mary Derrick, UF/IFAS.

The first signs of the fig rust disease are small yellow to yellow-green spots/lesions on the upper surface of the leaf that turn a reddish-brown color as they get larger. A heavy infestation causes the leaves to turn yellow and drop early. While fig rust does not injure the fruit, repeat occurrences of premature leaf drop can adversely affect the overall health of the tree, resulting in yield loss. Another concern is that if the leaves drop too early, the tree will flush out with new growth heading into winter. This new growth can be injured by early freezes and cause a loss of fruit the following season.

Fig rust on leaves. Credit: UF/IFAS.

What can you do to prevent and/or cure fig rust? Unfortunately, once you see the yellowish-green/reddish-brown spots on the leaves, it’s too late to provide any control. As always, proper cultural practices can help. Pruning the tree to provide adequate airflow keeps the leaves as dry as possible during our humid summers. Remember to prune fig trees in Florida after fruit harvest, not in the dormant season, since fruit is borne on previous year’s growth. Another cultural control to prevent fig rust is to rake diseased leaves out from under the tree. The fungal spores in the fallen leaf litter pass the disease on to next year’s leaves. Other cultural controls include providing adequate moisture and placing a healthy dose of mulch around the tree. Figs require minimal fertilizer. Using a general complete fertilizer with micronutrients (such as a 10-10-10), young trees should receive 1 cup (1/2 pound) and mature trees 4-8 cups (2-4 pounds) per year.

There are currently no chemical controls approved for fig rust in Florida. The classic Bordeaux mix is recommended by various authors to be used as a preventative fungicide during the dormant season, before the lesions appear on the leaves. The Bordeaux mixture is a mix of copper sulfate, lime, and water in a 1:1:10 ratio and is considered an organic pesticide. This mix has been used since the late 19th century and was discovered by accident after botanists and farmers realized that grapevines sprayed with the mix to deter theft had less fungal problems. As with any pesticide, be cautious when using. Overuse of copper-based fungicides can cause copper to build up in soils, leading to potential issues to plant and human health.

While figs are generally worry free for our area, fig rust is one disease to be on the lookout for. Good gardening practices can reduce the occurrence of this disease and ensure a bountiful harvest. For questions on growing figs or about the fig rust disease, visit the UF/IFAS EDIS website – edis.ifas.ufl.edu – or contact your local Extension office.

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Fig

Anthracnose (fungus – Glomerella cingulata): The fungus which causes anthracnose attacks both the fruit and the foliage. Infected fruit are characterized by a soft rot and premature dropping of the fruit. Immature fruit are dried up and may remain on the tree. Infection results in a small, sunken, discolored area. The areas enlarge with age and become covered with a pink mass of spores. Affected leaves will have a dark brown margin. Defoliation occurs with increased infection. Sanitation is extremely important in the fig planting. Diseased fruit as well as infected leaves should be removed.

Cotton Root Rot: (See Section on Cotton Root Rot)

Crown Gall: (See Section on Crown Gall)

Dieback (physiological – cold injury): Fig trees are often injured by early or late frosts that kill younger twigs. Although their death is not related directly to loss in production, they may serve as a site for secondary fungi to get started. All dead twigs and limbs should be pruned from the trees.

Fig Mosaic (virus): Affected figs show large yellow areas in the leaves, oak leaf pattern, ring spot area, or a mild mottled pattern. Leaves may be smaller than normal and deformed. Premature defoliation and fruit drop often occur. The virus is spread by vegetative cuttings and Aceria ficus (eriophyid mite). Control is by selection of clean propagating stock and insect control.

Fig Rust (fungus – Physopella fici): The disease is first evident as small, angular, yellow-green flecks on the leaf. The spots do not become extremely large but do become more yellow and finally a yellowish-brown. The margin of the spot is reddish in color. On the upper surface the spots are smooth, while on the lower surface the spots appear as small blisters. Brown spores are released from the blisters at maturity. As infection continues, the leaves become more yellow, and finally they begin to die around the leaf margins. Eventually death and defoliation occur. Complete defoliation can occur in two or three weeks. Fig rust generally becomes a problem as the fruit reaches maturity. Therefore, fungicide applications should be started in the early spring when the first leaves are completely grown. Make additional applications as new growth is formed. Do not spray when the fruit is one-fourth inch in diameter as the spray residue will make the fruit unattractive. Resume spraying after the fruit has been harvested.

Fruit Drop (physiological – flower development): The fig produces four types of flowers (male, female, Gall, and Mule): The male and female flowers are most often associated with the Capri type fig. This fig requires a wasp for pollination. The wasp does not occur in this part of the United States, thus it is impossible to grow Capri figs in Texas. Gall flowers are imperfect female flowers. They are found only on Capri and Cordelia figs. Mule flowers need no pollination and produce no seeds. The common fig grown in Texas produces primarily mule flowers. Since no seed are formed, the mule flowers are more subject to dropping than than those flowers which require pollination. The presence of the seed and the growth hormones produced by the seed help prevent fruit drop. The figs grown in Texas due to absence of seed are more subject to premature fruit drop as a result of adverse growing conditions.

Leaf Blight (fungus – Pellicularia kolerga): In early stages of infection, small areas in the leaves become yellow and appear watersoaked. With continual development, the upper surface becomes silvery white, and the lower surface becomes light brown and covered with a thin fungal web. In most cases, the leaves will turn brown and shrivel. It affects primarily the leaves but may develop on some fruit if it is new and a severely affected leaf or stem tip. Sanitation is the only recommendation to reduce losses from this disease.

Limb Blight (fungus – Corticum salmonicolor): Affected limbs wilt rapidly. The fungus enters at a spot along the main or secondary limbs, and all leaves die beyond that point. The fungus enters at a dead fruiting spore or at some other injured spot. All dead twigs and limbs should be removed by pruning so that they will not serve as infection sites.

Mushroom Root Rot: (See Section on Mushroom Root Rot)

Root Knot Nematodes (nematode – Meloidogyne spp.): Root knot is one of the most common disease problems occurring on figs. Infected roots are characterized by small galls or swellings on the roots. The presence of the galls on the roots interferes with the normal uptake of nutrients by the roots. Plants infested with root knot are stunted and have a general unhealthy appearance. Infested planting sites should be treated with Vapam prior to planting. This will reduce the nematodes in the soil to a low level. Do not use around living plants as it will result in severe root pruning, and in many cases death will occur. Make sure the fig plant is free of root knot. Once planted, the only practice left is to keep the plant in good health with regular fertilizer applications and maintain adequate moisture around the plant. If nematodes were initially present, the fig will eventually become infested, but the root system should be well established by then. (See Section on Root Knot Nematodes)

Sclerotium Blight (fungus – Sclerotium rolfsii): A yellowish-white mat of fungal growth is formed at the base of the plant. Round, hard, yellowish to brown bodies (sclerotia) are found scattered in the fungal growth. To prevent the occurrence of this disease, it is important to carry out a thorough sanitation program. Old leaves or grass around the base of tree will encourage fungal development.

Souring (several fungi and bacteria): Organisms are carried into the fruit by the dried fruit beetle. Figs which have open “eyes” or ostioles should not be planted. Only those with closed “eyes” should be planted. Some examples of closed eye figs are Celest, Texas Everbearing, and Alma. No chemical control has been found to be totally effective. Maneb fungicide will help to some extent. Insects should be controlled to eliminate them as carriers for the disease causing organisms.

Table 1: Fig Varieties and Their Reaction to Souring

Variety Reaction
Texas Everbearing Resistant
Magnolia Susceptible
Kodata Susceptible
Celeste Resistant
Alma Resistant

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