- What to sow and grow in September
- Flowers to sow and grow
- Vegetables and herbs to sow and grow
- Plant outdoors
- Keep one step ahead – what to order this month
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for September
- Monthly Guides to Growing Vegetables & Fruit
- What to sow and grow in July
- Summer succession planting basics: What to plant in July and August
- Successful summer succession planting:
- 5 vegetables to plant in July:
- 5 vegetables to plant in August:
- What can you plant in July?
What to sow and grow in September
Sow ‘Red Hot Pokers’ for stunning displays next summer
Image: Kniphofia ‘Erecta’ from Thompson & Morgan
September might be peak harvest time, but there’s still plenty to sow and grow this month.
Here’s a handy list of what to plant in September, along with the flowers, fruits and vegetables you can grow this month:
Flowers to sow and grow
Start verbascum off in a cold frame
Image: Verbascum x hybrida ‘Snow Maiden’ from Thompson & Morgan
Here are the flowers to sow and grow this month:
In the greenhouse/indoors
- • Surface-sow euphorbia seeds now in trays indoors.
- • Sow dierama seed now on the surface of moist compost. Keep in a cool greenhouse over winter.
In the cold frame / under cloches
- • Sow calendula seeds in pots now and keep in a cold frame, for fruity colour from early summer next year.
- • Sow violas in a cold frame to plant out in the spring.
- • Sow lupins, aquilegia, aconitum and hollyhocks in a cold frame now.
- • Sow eryngium and echinops in pots and place in a cold frame this month to enjoy their silvery spiky foliage next year.
- • Start verbascum seeds off outdoors now in pots in a cold frame.
- • Sow perennial salvias into pots and trays outdoors and leave in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse through the winter.
- • Sow red hot pokers into pots and trays outdoors for stunning flowers next summer.
- • Sow helenium in a cold frame to attract bees and butterflies into your garden next year.
Direct sow outdoors
- • Sow Ammi majus (Bishop’s Weed) directly in the ground now where you’d like it to flower. Autumn sowing will produce bigger, more robust plants to grow.
- • Sow hardy geraniums outdoors and leave them to over-winter.
- • Direct sow hardy annuals, such as cornflowers, poached egg plant, annual poppies and larkspur, for bigger plants next year.
- • Sprinkle California poppies into your borders for stunning colour late next spring.
- • Direct sow Love-in-a-Mist (nigella) – it will over-winter quite happily and will self-seed prolifically!
- • Sow delphiniums this month for flowers next summer.
Extend the season by filling any gaps with chrysanthemums
Image: Chrysanthemum x hortorum ‘Anastasia’ from Thompson & Morgan
- • Fill gaps in your borders with autumn-flowering plants, such as sedum and chrysanthemum, to extend the colour to the end of the season.
- • Plant hyacinth and amaryllis bulbs for forcing, to ensure a crowd of colourful blooms at Christmas. Keep them in a dark, cool place like a shed or garage and bring them indoors when the shoots are 5cm tall. Perfect for a homemade Christmas present!
- • Plant spring-flowering bulbs, such as daffodils, crocus and hyacinths.
- • Plant out any biennial plants sown earlier in the year. This includes foxgloves, wallflowers and violas.
- • Plant new perennials, trees and shrubs. Now is a good time as the soil is still warm and increasing rainfall should be on its way.
Vegetables and herbs to sow and grow
September’s your last chance to sow summer radishes
Image: Radish ‘French Breakfast’ from Thompson & Morgan
Here are your vegetables and herbs to sow and grow this September:
In the cold frame/ greenhouse/ under cloches
- • Direct sow spinach now and offer cloche protection as the weather cools. This will ensure harvests throughout autumn and winter.
- • Sow spring cabbages, such as ‘April’ and ‘Durham Early’ into modules in the greenhouse.
- • Sow pak choi under cloches now for an autumn supply of baby salad leaves.
- • Sow corn salad (lamb’s lettuce) now – it’s a fully hardy crop which can be sown outdoors now for cropping throughout the autumn and winter.
- • Sow ‘green manures’ on empty beds now to help improve your soil structure and prevent weeds establishing over winter.
- • Sow ‘Hi Keeper’ onions into a well-prepared seedbed – these are the best variety of onion for autumn sowing. Only thin your onion seedlings in the spring.
- • Direct sow salad leaves now.
- • Try sowing the very hardy ‘Perpetual’ spinach outdoors this month for winter harvests later in the year.
- • Sow winter-hardy spring onions, such as ‘White Lisbon’ and ‘Performer’ for crops next spring.
- • Make your last direct sowings of summer radishes this month – the cool autumn conditions are ideal.
- • Sow turnip seeds into well-prepared beds this September, for small roots.
- • Sow winter lettuce, such as ‘Arctic King’, directly into the ground now.
It’s time to get onion sets in the ground
Image: Onion ‘Shakespeare’ (Autumn Planting) from Thompson & Morgan
- • Start planting garlic bulbs at the end of the month for cropping next year.
- • Plant autumn onion sets this month.
- • Plant out any spring cabbages sown during the summer.
Keep one step ahead – what to order this month
Stock up on rhubarb now
Image: Rhubarb ‘Delight’ (Spring/Autumn Planting) from Thompson & Morgan
- • Order sweet pea seeds to start in cold frames in October.
- • Buy in autumn onion sets for an early summer harvest next year.
- • Order rhubarb crowns and asparagus crowns to plant next month.
Beans, cucumbers, melons, zucchini and summer squash will not ripen or mature once they are picked. They will keep for a week or two in the refrigerator.
Large cabbages and broccoli sideshoots will come to harvest in cooler regions. Cut-and-come again harvest of lettuce, spinach, and greens will stimulate new fall growth.
Dig regular potatoes and sweet potatoes as late as possible, just before frost threatens. Pick all tomatoes, peppers, beans, vine crops, winter squashes and other tender vegetables before hard frost.
Planting in September. In mild-winter region planting, cool-season vegetables can be planted in September. Plant now beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cauliflower, celery, fava beans, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, both head and leaf lettuce, mustard greens, onions, parsley, peas, potatoes, radishes, rutabagas, spinach, Swiss chard, and turnips.
Tomatoes. Pinch off the top of all tomato plants in September; remove at least six inches of foliage on each stem. Plucking away fruit bearing foliage will allow the plant to put its strength into ripening tomatoes already on the vine.
After harvest, freeze tomatoes whole or sliced. Scald tomatoes for one minute then place them on oiled baking sheets in the freezer for one day. After freezing, the tomatoes can be bagged or boxed and returned to the freezer.
Peppers. Chili peppers ripen best on the vine; sweet peppers will ripen after picking. Sweet pepper left on the plant will keep fresh longer than those cut off. If you harvest peppers at the green stage, the plant will continue to set new fruit. To ripen sweet peppers out of the garden, lift the entire plant and hang it in a room or shed at 50°F.
Eggplant. Harvest eggplant when they are small; they are ready for use and most tender at one-third to half their mature size. Harvest an eggplant before its skin loses it shininess. Cut the fruits from plants with shears leaving some stem attached. Use eggplants shortly after harvest for best flavor; they will keep one to two weeks at 50°F after harvest.
Summer squash. Zucchini and straight neck and crookneck type summer squashes can be harvested at 4 to 5 inches long; don’t let them sit in the garden to long and become seedy. Scallop and pattypan squashes are best small, no larger than 4 inches across. Summer squashes will keep in the refrigerator for about two weeks.
Winter squash. Winter squash is ready for harvest when the skin is tough and the stems shrivel and dry. Cut them form the plant leaving 4 to 6 inches of stem attached; fungi and bacteria can enter stored squashes if the stem is torn away. Leave winter squashes for winter storage on the vine until next month; rest fruits still in the garden on a piece of wood or brick to keep pests and disease at bay.
Shell beans. Leave shell bean plants in the garden until the pod become brown and dry. If wet weather comes, pull up the plants and hang them to dry by their roots in an airy shed or porch.
Potatoes. Maincrop potatoes are ready for harvest when the foliage begins to fade and some leave turn brown. When leaves begin to fade, potato plants stop manufacturing food to feed the growth underground. Use a garden fork to gently loosen the soil then lift the tubers by hand. Let potatoes dry out for an hour or so on top of the ground; cure them at 55°F for two weeks before storing. Store potatoes in a dark, cool well-ventilated place; place them in slotted boxes or bins or in baskets.
Sweet potatoes. Sweet potatoes are ready for harvest when the vines turn yellow and die or are killed by frost. The plants will stop growing at temperatures below 65°F; if exposed to temperatures bellow 50°F sweet potatoes will deteriorate rapidly. Lift sweet potatoes with a garden fork; let the roots sit in the sum for a day or two to cure; then place them in shady area at about 80°F for a week to 10 days. Cure sweet potatoes before you store them.
Rutabagas. Rutabagas can stay in the ground past one or two frosts but should come out of the garden before the soil freezes. Place rutabagas and other root crops in plastic bags with holes punched in them for air circulation. Place roots in the refrigerator crisper or a humid root cellar with the temperature just above freezing. Bagging will keep roots clean, provide a steady temperature, and seal in an even moisture level. Rutabagas are milder flavored than turnips.
Carrots. Lift maincrop carrots with a garden fork and cut off the tops. Begin the harvest by lifting fingerlings which will be most tasty eaten right away. Use split root carrots as soon as possible as well. Winter store the remainder of the crop in layers in deep boxes, with ½ inch of sand between each layer. Place storage boxes in a dry shed.
Lettuce, spinach, and other greens. Keep lettuce, spinach and other greens trimmed so that they will not bolt. Harvest greens cut-and-come again, removing outside leaves first. To avoid looseleaf lettuce bolting where the weather, take a knife and slice off the whole head one inch from the ground; you can get two, three, or four cuttings from a single plant each season using this method.
Shallot and onions. Harvest shallots when the tops are yellow and shriveled. Lift bulb onions after about half the leaves have fallen over (a third in warm regions). Before lifting bend over the tops that are still standing and let the bulbs ripen for three or four more days before lifting. Let them cure in the sun or a warm, dry place for a week; don’t store onions until the top and papery skins are dry and crinkly.
Cabbage. Plant spring cabbages in beds that have been amended with aged compost and manure. Where winters are wet, plant spring cabbages on ridges 9 inches high. Add a pinch of bone meal into each hole at transplanting. Set the plants with their bottom leaves at soil level, firming them in with your heel and then watering.
Watering. Keep the garden watered in autumn; there is still plenty of warm weather coming and crops depend on soil moisture to make their final growth and ripen.
Protecting crops. Cloches or plastic tunnels will offer low temperature protection for crops including lettuces, spring cabbages, broad beans, and carrots. Winter crop protection will reduce losses during winter and hasten maturity in spring. Put hoops in place now so that crops can be covered quickly when frost threatens.
Herbs. Sow parsley and chervil now for a spring crop. Divide and replant clumps of bergamot; about one foot apart, preferably in rich soil.
Take cuttings of bay, lavender, and rue and root them in sandy soil in a shaded frame or cloche.
Cleanup. Begin garden cleanup as crops come out of the garden. Take out of the garden any debris that will allow pests and diseases to overwinter. Where there has been no disease or pest problem, green residue can be turned under.
Record keeping. Update your garden map and note the dates of dates the final harvest. These notes will come in handy next year.
Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for September
September is the end of summer although we’re often lucky to have an Indian summer with blue skies and sunshine, nothing is certain with the weather. The bulk of the harvest comes home now and as crops come out the plot begins to empty
Sowing & Planting in September on the Vegetable Plot
Pumpkins ripening in the late September sunshine on the allotment.
As we leave summer behind and approach autumn, the rush to get things into the ground slows to a near halt, which is not to say that work stops!
This is one of the busiest months with harvesting. It’s worth sowing some winter hardy spring onions ready for spring. I stick with White Lisbon, which never fails me, but make sure you get winter hardy.
You can sow lettuce like Arctic King now they’ll be ready in early spring as well. We think of lettuce as a summer crop but actually they don’t like too much heat and are surprisingly hardy,
Autumn onion sets can go in now to provide an early crop and plant out spring cabbages to slowly develop for next year.
Early September is the time to sow green manures as land becomes vacant. They perform three jobs for you.
- First, they soak up any nutrients which would otherwise be washed away in winter rain. In fact, sowing a legume such as Winter Tares or field beans will fix nitrogen from the air.
- Second, they provide compost material and improve the soil structure
- Third, they prevent weed growth by crowding them out and that’s less work for you
If you’re blessed with a light soil then just leave them in over winter. In the spring you dig them in and allow them to rot down for a few weeks. If you’ve a heavy clay soil, dig them in when you do your late autumn, early winter digging.
Following potatoes on with mustard can be useful for curbing eelworm but be aware that mustard is a brassica and best to avoid if you’ve a clubroot problem.
One of the best green manures for winter growth is Hungarian grazing rye. It continues to grow, albeit slowly, in cold weather and should be around 15″ tall come the spring from an early September sowing. Not only will you have a lush mass of foliage but it also produces a mass of roots that will provide humus for bacterial breakdown.
Keep feeding your tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers but it’s not really worthwhile feeding other plants at this time of year as they are nearly finished and the nutrients are best saved for the spring. Keep the side shoots in check on the tomatoes.
Don’t give up on the hoe, it’s far better to how weeds away when you can hardly see them than when they’re established. As the saying goes “Hoe when you can’t see a weed and you’ll never see a weed”
Keep an eye on your brassicas for butterfly eggs and caterpillars, these will most probably be under the leaves. The greenhouse pests should be on the wane but keep an eye out if the weather is good as they can leap back so quickly
September and October are the right time to work on your compost. Usually the cool compost bins will have partially decomposed material at the top and rotted compost at the base.
Take the partially rotted off and then take out the rotted compost to spread on the ground or pile ready to add to the base of trenches when digging over to encourage the worms to deepen your top soil.
The partially rotted goes back in the bin along with fresh green materials (preferably shredded), some manure if you have it and lime in layers. Once a heap is built, cover with cardboard, plastic sheet or tarpaulin and, with luck, you’ll get a hot compost going before the real winter chill hits.
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Tidy up the summer fruiting raspberries. Cut off the canes that have fruited and tie in the new shoots that will bear next year’s fruit.
The summer fruiting strawberries can be attended to now as well. Cut off the foliage about 1″ from the ground, clearing and weeding as you go. Any runners can be planted up to replace 3 year old plants that are best replaced now.
The maincrop potatoes may be ready now. When you harvest your potatoes take care to remove all the tubers. Any left will not only sprout next year and become a weed but will also be a reservoir for disease and potato blight spores. It’s often worth forking over a few days after harvesting potatoes because more seem to miraculously appear.
If blight has struck your potatoes the best method to preserve the crop is to remove the haulm and dispose of it then leave the potatoes in the ground for a fortnight or longer to stop the spores getting onto the tubers.
The runner beans and French beans will be continuing to produce until frost strikes. The last of the peas should be coming in as well. Compost the foliage of the peas and beans but leave the roots in the ground as the nodules on them contain nitrogen.
From the greenhouse you should be picking aubergines, chilli and sweet peppers as well as cucumbers and tomatoes.
Other Crops You Could be Harvesting Now
- Spring Onions
- Globe Artichokes
See also: Polytunnel Growing in September
Monthly Guides to Growing Vegetables & Fruit
With Free Seeds!
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for January
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for February
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for March
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for April
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for May
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for June
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for July
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for August
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for September
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for October
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for November
- Fruit & Vegetable Growing Guide for December
Download & Print: Vegetable Sowing & Harvest Chart
What to sow and grow in July
Fill your garden with beautiful perennials
Image: Echinacea x hybrida ‘Magic Box’ from Thompson & Morgan
July is the perfect growing month, as long, warm days stretch out late into the evening. With vegetable gardens full of produce and borders at their peak, you’ll be busy watering, monitoring for pests and keeping on top of weeds. If you’re planning a holiday, invest in an irrigation system to look after fruit, flowers and veg while you’re away.
Here’s a handy list of what vegetables to plant in July, along with the fruit, flowers and plants to grow this month:
Foxgloves help bridge the gap between spring and summer
Image: Foxglove ‘Primrose Carousel’ from Thompson & Morgan
Here are the flowers to sow and grow this July:
- • July is the ideal time to sow spring-flowering perennial seeds in trays filled with good quality compost. Try aquilegia, bellis, delphinium and lupin.
- • Sow summer-flowering perennials such as scabiosa, echinacea and geranium.
- • Prepare for winter containers by sowing winter-flowering pansies in the greenhouse.
- • For flowers that bridge the gap between spring and summer, grow biennials such as forget-me-not, foxgloves, sweet William and beautifully scented wallflowers for flowering next year.
- • Sprinkle forget-me-not (myosotis) seeds outdoors from May to September to mimic the natural process that follows their spring flowering. Ideal for areas of dappled shade.
- • Plant out autumn-flowering bulbs like nerine and autumn crocus now.
Plant kohl rabi now for a crop in approximately 8 weeks
Image: Kohl rabi ‘Kolibri’ F1 Hybrid from Thompson & Morgan
Here’s what to sow and grow in the vegetable garden this July:
- • Sow gherkins indoors by early July, to transplant outside later. Pick the fruits when small and expect to start harvesting in late summer.
- • Sow basil in pots to keep on your patio now and to bring indoors for the winter.
- • Make your last direct sowings of beetroot so they mature in time for autumn.
- • There is still time to direct sow fast-maturing carrots such as ‘Nantes Frubund’, ‘Adelaide’ and ‘Amsterdam Forcing’.
- • Sow fast-growing herbs such as coriander, dill, and parsley directly into the ground or into containers.
- • Sow hardy corn salad directly into drills for crops throughout autumn and winter.
- • Direct sow endive for a tasty autumn crop.
- • Make more sowings of French beans and runner beans if space allows – this will extend your cropping season well into the autumn. Direct sow or start them off in small pots. Expect to start harvesting in late August.
- • For something more unusual grow kohl rabi – direct sow it now for a crop in approximately 8 weeks.
- • Continue to direct sow lettuce seeds every three weeks for a continuous supply.
- • July is the perfect time to start your first direct sown crops of pak choi as they’re prone to bolting if grown before midsummer.
- • Make your last sowings of peas outdoors now so that they develop before the frosts.
- • Direct sow perpetual spinach for autumn and winter cropping.
- • Add colour to stir-fries with raddichio. Seeds can be sown directly into the soil now.
- • Make small direct sowings of radishes every few weeks to ensure a constant supply. Be sure to water frequently in hot weather and expect to start harvesting within a month.
- • Direct sow salad leaves regularly throughout the summer. Pick the leaves when small and remove any spent plants. Expect to start harvesting in three weeks.
- • Spring cabbages such as ‘Durham Early’ should be sown now in a well prepared seed bed for transplanting later.
- • Continue to sow spring onions in drills outdoors for a quick crop to add to salads and stir fries.
- • Add some colour to your plot by direct sowing Swiss chard ‘Bright Lights’. This will over-winter to give a bumper crop in the spring.
- • Direct sow turnips 1cm deep. Thin seedlings to 15cm apart and keep moist. Expect to start harvesting in 60 days.
- • Plant out sprouting broccoli, spacing the plants 60cm (2ft) apart. Calabrese plants can be spaced closer together at 30cm (1ft) apart.
- • Plant out winter cabbages, allowing about 45cm between plants as they get quite big!
- • Plant out winter vegetables such as hardy cauliflowers, kale and leeks now.
- • Plant out Brussels sprouts early this month.
Get ready for August by ordering your Californian poppy seeds now.
- • Order poppy and california poppy seeds ready for August sowing.
- • Buy parsley, coriander and chervil seeds to sow next month and grow under glass for the winter.
- • Make sure you have enough salad leaf seeds to keep you going through the rest of summer and autumn!
Summer succession planting basics: What to plant in July and August
This post may contain affiliate links. If you click on an affiliate link and make a purchase, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Find our full disclosure here.
Savvy vegetable gardeners know that summer succession planting is the key to a non-stop harvest. This technique can be used in large vegetable gardens, small plots, and even on decks and patios where food is grown in containers. The premise is simple; as soon as one crop is finished, clean out old crops from the bed (or container), amend the soil, and plant fresh seeds or seedlings.
To help you hone your succession planting skills, we’ve teamed up with the Home Grown Seed Collection by P. Allen Smith to provide you with tips, as well as a few fun veggies to grow—and when to grow them. Some edibles you’ll want to add to your list to plant in July, while others can wait until August.
Unlike spring planting where cool temperatures and ample moisture helps crops settle in quickly, summer weather can be a challenge for a succession planter. It’s hot and dry, and establishing seeds and seedlings can require a lot of TLC from the gardener. However, there are several ways to get around dry soil and soaring temperatures. Here are a few of our best tips to get you started in summer succession planting.
Successful summer succession planting:
- Plan ahead. Check your seed inventory and order new varieties or fresh seed packets before you need to plant.
- When you’re ready to seed or transplant, work in a 1/2 inch layer of compost.
- Avoid transplanting seedlings in the heat of the day. If possible wait for a cloudy or rainy day, or plant in late afternoon when the sun is less strong.
- If you’re in the middle of a heat wave, consider providing shade for newly seeded or transplanted crops with a mini hoop tunnel. Float a piece of row cover or shade cloth on the hoops to protect the bed from the hot sun.
- Keep newly seeded or transplanted crops consistently watered. If seedbeds are allowed to dry out, germination rates will plummet.
- Mulch! After you move seedlings (kale, cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, etc) into garden beds, water the soil well and mulch plants with straw or shredded leaves to hold soil moisture and reduce transplant stress.
No space in your garden for more vegetables? Consider succession planting edibles in containers as many crops take well to pots, planters, and window boxes. In fact, when the heat of July and August causes cool-weather vegetables, like spinach, arugula, and mustard, to bolt, planting in pots in semi-shade can yield a high-quality crop.
Now that you’re ready to get serious about summer succession planting, it’s time to talk about the fun part—what to grow! We love the gourmet vegetables in the P. Allen Smith Home Grown Collection. They’re easy to grow, reliable, productive, and delicious.
5 vegetables to plant in July:
1) Z’Oro zucchini: Z’Oro is a perfect summer squash for succession planting as it’s both quick and easy to grow, with fruits ready to harvest just 45 days from seeding. And those fruits! They’re a gorgeous deep yellow in color with a unique cylindrical shape. Plus, they’re produced in abundance. For the highest quality crop, harvest when the fruits are five to seven inches long.
2) Bulldog collard: Craving savory collard greens? Try growing your own with Bulldog, a vigorous variety with quick growth and blue-green leaves. Unlike many varieties, Bulldog is bolt-resistant for summer growing, but also cold-tolerant for fall and winter harvesting. Direct seed in the garden or give the plants a head-start indoors under grow lights, moving them to the garden about 50 days before the first expected fall frost.
3) Green Magic broccoli: This summer to fall type of broccoli is ideal for summer succession planting, with the large, semi-domed heads ready to harvest about two months from transplanting. As with collards, the seeds can be direct-seeded or started indoors, and moved into the garden after three to four weeks. The harvest begins in early to mid-autumn and, with protection, can extend into winter.
4) Aspabroc F1 Baby Broccoli ‘Broccolini’: This gourmet broccoli also thrives in the cool weather of spring or fall and can be seeded now for a fall crop. Unlike traditional broccoli, which forms a large, central head, Aspabroc is a broccolini-type that produces a generous harvest of small side-shoots, perfect for stir-fries, roasting, dipping, or steaming.
Aspabroc, aka ‘Broccolini’, is a delicious gourmet veggie that can be eaten raw or sautéed.
5) Mascotte bush bean: An All-America Selections winner, Mascotte is my favorite bush bean. Not only is it an early yielding variety, but it also grows well in garden beds and pots, has compact growth, and bears a ridiculously large harvest of super tender, stringless green beans. The pods are produced above the foliage, making for very easy picking.
Mascotte was a 2014 All-America Selections (AAS) Winner. Photo by AAS
* Bonus veggies: Cucumbers, carrots, beets, kohlrabi, cabbage, and peas.
5 vegetables to plant in August:
1) Imperial Green Spinach: Imperial Green is a great choice for late-summer sowing as the plants are both heat-tolerant and bolt resistant. Plus, they’re resistant to common spinach diseases, like downey mildew. The deep green, arrow-shaped leaves are held upright on sturdy stems, making picking a snap. Use it raw in salads or cooked in stir-fries or pastas.
Imperial Green Spinach is a great option for late-summer succession planting.
2) Deep Purple mustard: Add excitement to your late-summer salads with Deep Purple mustard, a spicy Asian green that goes from seed to baby leaf in a mere 25 days. Sow seeds in pots or beds, or in cold frames in mid-autumn for winter harvesting.
3) Vulcan lettuce: Almost too pretty to eat, Vulcan lettuce is an extremely ornamental and delicious bi-colored variety with puckered red and red leaves. It takes well to container growing and looks fantastic in garden beds. If any remains in the garden in late autumn, cover with a mini hoop tunnel to protect from frost.
Vulcan lettuce is almost too pretty to eat!
4) Peppermint Swiss chard (pictured in main image): Perhaps the most ornamental of all the chards, Peppermint is a veggie garden superstar that thrives in the spring, summer, and fall garden, and even longer with the protection of a cold frame or tunnel. It’s perfect for pots and gardens, and has electric pink- and white-striped stems topped with deep green, ruffly foliage. Gorgeous! Plant a fresh crop in mid-summer for loads of baby leaves in early autumn, letting some of the plants mature for a late-season harvest.
5) Market Express baby turnip: These are the ping pong ball-sized turnips that are in high demand at farmers markets for their tender roots and tasty leaves. Baby turnips are very quick to grow; just 30 days from seed to harvest, and they thrive in the late-summer, early-fall garden. The creamy white roots can be roasted, sautéed, stir-fried, or eaten raw in salads and other dishes.
* Bonus veggies: turnips, radishes, arugula, kale, beets, and Asian greens.
Are you ready to plant some extra crops? A big thank you to Home Grown Seed Collection by P. Allen Smith for sponsoring this post.
Seeds are available from:
- Halifax Seed (Canadian supplier)
- Park Seed (U.S. supplier)
- Roher Seeds (U.S. supplier)
- Twilley Seeds (U.S. supplier)
Which veggies are part of your summer succession planting plan?
What can you plant in July and still get a harvest? There are plenty of warm-season veggies that you can plant in July and still get a harvest by fall. Today’s post is intended for those of you living in Zones 4 to 6 and maybe even Zone 7.
This post contains affiliate links, clicking on them with not cost you anything extra, but does allow Stoney Acres to make a small commission on your purchase through the Amazon Affiliate Program!
This post will answer the question, what can you plant in July? Where we live the weather in July is rough. We often have 10 or more days with temperatures over 100 with almost all the days over 90. Whew! That’s not the best planting weather. But if you live in USDA zones 4, 5, 6 and maybe even 7 there are still some things you can be planting this time of year.
Let me start out by giving you a quick link. This post is meant for those of you living mainly in Garden Zones 4 to 7.
I just added a video to my YouTube channel about this topic, Check out the video below and be sure to subscribe to my channel while you are at it!!
Look around your garden, are there some empty spots? Maybe a spot where the plants didn’t make it, or maybe you have cleared out some veggies already. You can still take advantage of all the warm weather by filling those spots with new plantings!
What can you plant in July?
We always have a big empty spot where our peas were planted. Peas are done here by July 1st and ready to come out. A lot of this space will just sit empty for 30 days waiting for the first of the fall carrot & spinach plantings in August. But we always try to plant some bush beans in at least part of the pea beds. Also, the spring lettuce beds are also empty and bush beans can also be planted there.
So what can you plant in July and still expect to get a harvest?
An early to mid-July planting of Zucchini, Crookneck or Patty Pan squash should still produce some fruit by the end of the season. The harvest you should expect will be smaller than you would have gotten if the plants went in during the month of May. But you can still have a good harvest from mid-September until the frost freezes your plants in October.
In fact, if you struggle with powdery mildew in your garden, a July planting of any of these summer squashes may be just the thing your harvest basket needs. When your spring-planted squashes start to fall to the powdery mildew, your July plants will just be kicking in!! Here’s our growing guide for summer squash.
A second planting of cucumbers this time of year will yield a small early fall crop. It is never a bad idea to plant some extra cucumbers.
Doesn’t it always seem like Cucumber plants kind of “burn themselves out”? My plants always seem to start fading in late August. This year try an early July planting of cucumbers. Those fresh plants will start producing in early September and will help to build your fall harvest! Don’t forget to grow them on a trellis.
If you can find them at a nursery, you can still get onion sets in the ground. They WILL NOT bulb up so you will only get green onions.
Plant them deep (3 inches) and close together to save space. These can last well into the fall and help supply your meals with fresh green onions! Learn more about growing onions here.
July planted kale from either starts or seeds will yield a great fall and even winter crop. You will want to wait to harvest this planting of kale until the fall really settles in and you have had 2 or 3 frosty nights. The frost will help sweeten the kale and improve its taste. But if you want fall kale, you need to get it planted now! Learn why growing Kale in the fall is better!
Summer Crisp lettuces
Summer varieties of lettuce will do great in July and August and seeds can be planted directly in the garden. Just be sure to keep the seeds moist till they germinate and get established. Most summer lettuce varieties resist bolting and tip burn. I love doing this as it gives me a very early crop of lettuce so that we can have fresh garden salads, garnished with fresh tomatoes!! If you would like to learn more about Summer Crisp Lettuces
Be sure to plant some fall peas, either snow peas or shelling peas. These need to go in around July 15th and will be ready in mid-October. I have found that snow peas do particularly well in the fall. If you get your peas planted in mid-July you can have a decent harvest in late fall. Just keep in mind, in areas where you have hot summers and short falls, peas don’t do as well in the fall as they would in the spring. Expect 1/2 the harvest in the fall as you would get from the same number of plants in the spring.
Green beans have a surprisingly short growing time. This is particularly true of the bush varieties. Many varieties of bush beans have a maturity date of only 60 to 70 days. That means a planting early in July will be ready to go no later than mid-September, and if you have a late first frost date even a planting at the end of July will still give you a great harvest!! Want to learn more about growing beans? Read my growing guide here!
Midsummer is a great time to get started on a fall planting of leeks. If you live in a mild winter area then you may be able to get a harvest by planting seeds directly in the garden. In areas where winter arrives early, you may want to try and get a hold of some seedlings to plant, or try planting some of your own indoors and then transplanting them out in 6 weeks.
It’s not too early to be thinking about fall crops, a mid-July planting of broccoli (especially sprouting broccoli) will do well. You could also get an early jump on your fall plantings of beets, turnips or even carrots.
The important thing to remember about any planting in July is that the weather (think heat) is very rough on newly sprouted seedlings. You will want to give anything you have planted in July lots of extra attention and be sure to water them often. For the first few weeks maybe even daily watering will be required.
So if you have some empty spots in your garden or if you had one of those springs and didn’t get anything planted it’s still not too late to get some seeds in the ground! Now you know what can you plant in July and still get a harvest!
What can you plant in July? Anything I missed? What have you had success with planting in July? Leave a comment!!