Fall planting zone 6

Yearly Seasonal Gardening Australia Vegetable Garden by Temperate (Regional) Zone

Successful gardening Australia vegetable garden is all about knowing what to plant in your Temperate (Regional) Zone NOW.

Below are links to Seasonal Herb, Fruit & Vegie Planting Guide by Temperate (Regional) Zones in Australia, if in doubt talk to your local garden centre & nursery expert for further advice.

Summer Herb, Fruit & Vegie Planting Guide

Summer is a hot time in the garden and vegetable plants will require more frequent watering then during other seasons. Remember to water early morning and late afternoon to avoid leaf burn. To discover what is suitable in your Temperate Zone continue here…

Autumn Herb, Fruit & Vegie Planting Guide

The mild weather of Autumn, makes for wonderful vegetable growing conditions in all Temperate (Regional) Zones throughout Australia. Perfect time to plant cabbage and beans. To discover what is suitable in your Temperate Zone continue here…

Winter Herb, Fruit & Vegie Planting Guide

Whilst it maybe cold, there are many produce plants that can still be planted in the garden to yield a harvest. This is especially so in the Arid and Tropical Temperate (Regional) Zones of Australia. To discover what is suitable in your Temperate Zone continue here…

Spring Herb, Fruit & Vegie Planting Guide

Spring is a fabulous time for vegetable gardening in all Temperate (Regional) Zones of Australia. Remember not to plant too early if in Southern States, as you may still experience some frost. To discover what is suitable in your Temperate Zone continue here…

RECIPES: Garden 2 Kitchen Yearly Seasonal Gardening Australia Flower Guide

Knowing what to plant in a fall vegetable garden will open your eyes to a whole new world and extend your gardening season for many weeks or longer.

Cool-season seedlings are readily available at your local nursery when the time is right to plant your fall vegetable garden

While summer is typically considered the season for the classic vegetable garden, the cooler temperatures of fall find far fewer pest and disease populations to challenge plants (and gardeners). In addition, many edible varieties that would never grow happily in warmer times thrive in cooler and even cold weather of the fall vegetable garden.

If heat, humidity, gnats and bugs, along with constant watering and weeding are just not your thing, then fall gardening should be pure pleasure to those who are not fans of those ubiquitous conditions of summer gardening.

Most cool season crops will do fine even through frost and some freezing temperatures. But depending on what you grow and where you live, some level of protection may be necessary when temperatures drop below certain levels.

While all of the following plants can also be grown in late-winter or early-spring, the information below was written to specifically address planting options for late-summer to early-fall of the most popular cool-season edibles .

Best plants for a fall vegetable garden

Arugula: Grow arugula like lettuce. Seeds germinate in about 5-7 days, even in cold soil. This leafy green vegetable has a spicy kick that works great mixed in salads. The dark green leaves and interesting leaf margins add a nice ornamental appeal to your garden as well.

Beets: For a fall harvest, plant beets 10-12 weeks before first frost. Or look for seedlings already started for help with timing. Seeds germinate in about 5-days. Beets taste best if you harvest them before they get too large (2″-2.5″ is ideal).

Broccoli: Late summer or early September direct seeding is best for timing. Sowing early will allow plenty of time for broccoli to head up. Or go with transplants when available. If you don’t want them all ready at once, consider staggering your sowing times over a few weeks. Cut main head from the plant when crown is still rather tight. Leave remaining plant in the ground and you may get additional smaller side heads later. The sweetest broccoli you will ever eat comes from your own garden when kissed by frost.

Brussels sprouts: This is likely the hardiest plant in your edible garden. Seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are still warm (75-80 degrees) so direct sow seeds now as these plants are not fast growers. You can also buy seedlings if you’re getting a later start. Its taste is all the better when several frosts have visited your plants. Another great plant for adding vertical interest to a garden (so be sure to stake these plants).

Cabbage: Direct seed in late summer or early fall. Seeds germinate in about 6 days. The smaller the heading size, the faster till harvest. A plant that thrives in cool but not cold temperatures, there are many varieties available. Grow your own and experience the pleasure of what fresh sweet cabbage really tastes like. You don’t know until you experience the dramatic difference for yourself.

Carrots: Root crops are classic for cool season growing. Carrots seeds germinate in about 7 days but grow slowly. In fall, sow seeds no later than 10 weeks before the first frost for a fall harvest. The seeds are tiny. Sow as evenly as possible but expect to come back after germination to thin out crowed sprouts for proper spacing. The ferny tops are a delicate look that enhances the design of any winter garden.

Cauliflower: Similar to broccoli and cabbage but a bit more challenging.Look for young seedlings and set transplants into the garden in late summer or early fall. Mature heads are sensitive to frost so for fall crops sowing after mid-August may not allow ample time for full maturity depending on where you live. It’s well worth dedicating a bit of space to this for the chance of experiencing just how good it can be from your own garden. Even non-cauliflower lovers enjoy it fresh from the garden.

Chinese Cabbage: Asian cousins of our domestic cabbage, direct sow seeds into the garden about eight-weeks before the first frost. You can usually find seedlings at the garden center as well. Common varieties found include open forms Joi choi, Pak choi, and Bok choi. All are easy to grow and especially well-suited in stir fry dishes.

Garlic: Super easy to grow, sow cloves directly into the soil about 2-inches deep in mid-fall and enjoy the harvest next summer. If you like garlic, growing the varieties you love is always a plus and couldn’t be easier.

Kale, Collards and Mustard: Super foods that are winter hardy. A few plants will fill a garden bed quickly. Sow seeds in late summer or early fall. Or transplants when available. Also ornamental, these plants are great to cook up on a cold night or toss in a smoothie, especially kale.

Kohlrabi: Perhaps the strangest looking plant you’ll ever grow in your edible garden. Kohlrabi is fast-growing and a cousin of cabbage and broccoli. This is a great plant to direct sow in fall up to one month before the first frost. Harvest as needed. It’s winter hardy and will store in-ground until you’re ready to harvest. For extra protection from cold snaps, cover with a layer of straw.

Lettuce: Super easy to grow, sow seeds directly into beds or containers starting about 8 weeks before the first average frost date. Lightly cover with soil. Seeds germinate in about a week. For a faster start, use transplants. With so many varietal options, the ornamental qualities are superb as well. To extend the season, sow a new crop of lettuce seeds or transplants about every two-weeks for a succession of fresh lettuce all through the season.

Onions: Onions grow happily through winter, forming bulbs next spring for a summer harvest. Although not difficult to grow, there’s more to know about selecting the right kind of onions for your growing area (short-day or long-day), as well as seeds or sets. Do your homework before you make your purchase to ensure you are getting the most appropriate selections for your area.

Peas: Sow seeds in late summer to early fall. Seeds germinate in about 10-14 day (longer when soil temperatures are cooler). Peas are great for adding vertical interest. Just give them something to climb on. Shorter varieties are also available. Sugar snaps and snow peas are cool season varieties and like candy in the garden. Every cool-season garden should include peas.

Radishes: The fastest growing edible plant in your garden, they can be ready to harvest in less than 30 days from seed. Radishes thrive in the cool soil of fall. Keep in mind there are over 200 varieties. So if all you know are the small hot ones, give radishes another look for a fast-growing, tasty, storable crop that’s super easy to grow.

Spinach: Sow seeds in early fall. Seeds germinate in 3 -5 days and plants grow well through fall. Harvest from the outside to allow plants to keep growing from the center. Although winter hardy, cover with a light layer of straw for extra winter protection and enjoy harvesting into late next spring. What could be better than harvesting some fresh sweet leaves of spinach for a salad or side dish?

Swiss Chard: Perhaps the most beautiful and toughest plant for year-round interest. Sow seeds about 10 weeks before first expected frost. Or add transplants when available in spring or fall. Fairly cold tolerant. Even if foliage dies back in winter, new leaves commonly emerge in spring from the base. This is one tough and beautiful plant. Does well for an an edible ornamental element in beds or containers. Lots of varieties and great in stir-fry too.

Fall Vegetables – Which Veggies Grow Best in Fall?

By Linda Ly

As the season starts to dwindle, the last thing on your mind is probably planting fall crops during the dog days of summer. But the cooler days of autumn are prime time for growing a variety of leafy greens and root vegetables, some of which actually favor a nip in the air. To ensure your fall garden grows to maturity before winter sets in, start seeding your crops in mid to late summer – conveniently, around the same time your spring-sown crops are winding down for the season.

List of Fall Vegetables to Grow

These 7 varieties are easy to grow even for a beginner gardener. They do best when daytime temperatures start dipping into the 70s and nights are in the 40s and 50s. Be sure to start your seeds while the weather is still warm. If you wait until it cools off considerably, it might already be too late for most crops.

  1. Lettuce
  2. Sweet, tender lettuce should be planted 4 to 8 weeks before the first frost, and can be harvested at all stages, from baby leaf to full head. Try succession planting your favorite varieties for salad all season long. Lettuce can make it through the winter if grown under row cover or in a cold frame.

  3. Kale
  4. This extremely hardy vegetable loves the cold. In fact, the leaves turn sweeter when met with frost. The flavor actually improves when harvested under a blanket of snow. Come spring when warm weather causes it to bolt, you can harvest and eat the sweet flower buds, too.

  5. Cabbage
  6. Similar to its brassica cousin, kale, cold-hardy cabbage keeps thriving through frost. It likes a lot of space in the garden so plan for around 2 ft. per plant to produce a large and impressive head of cabbage. Cabbage can be spaced as little as 1 ft. apart, but the heads will be smaller.

  7. Fava Beans
  8. These multipurpose vegetables work wonders as a cover crop and nitrogen fixer if you’re trying to revive poor soil. They produce a full top-to-tail harvest in all stages, from the leaves to the flowers to the pods. Fava beans are also forgiving plants that can grow in partial shade and clay soil, as well as tolerate temperatures down to 15°F.

  9. Radishes
  10. Quick-growing spring varieties mature in 3 to 4 weeks and can be succession-planted every week until a month before the first frost. Winter varieties are slower growing but offer larger roots and leaves, more robust flavor, and longer storage (in the ground and in the fridge after harvest). Grow both types for some variety in your fall garden!

  11. Beets
  12. These hardy vegetables can tolerate light frosts, and are able to survive winter with heavy mulch and row cover in zones 6 and above. Thin the seedlings to encourage a more productive crop and use them in salads. You can also harvest the young leaves while the root is developing, but try not to pick more than a few leaves from each plant as it may affect growth.

  13. Garlic
  14. It takes a lot of patience to grow garlic, as the bulbs need about 9 months to reach maturity. However, they are worth the wait, and once planted, it’s a very low-maintenance crop. You’ll want to plant garlic in the fall before the ground freezes (generally October for most zones). It’ll likely be the last thing to go in the garden before you hang up the trowel.

    Fall Vegetable Gardening FAQs

    When should you plant a fall garden?

    To find the best window for planting fall crops, you’ll need to know the average date of the first frost in your region. Your local nursery or cooperative extension office will be able to provide this information. You can also look it up in an online almanac. Then, check your seed packets for the “days to maturity” listed and subtract that number from the first frost date to determine the optimal time for planting that variety.

    In general, counting back about 12 weeks from the first frost date will allow you to grow the widest range of vegetables.

    What to plant when: fall vegetable garden planting schedule

    12 to 14 weeks before the first frost Direct sow lettuce, radishes, and rutabagas

    Start seeds for cabbage, kale, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and other brassicas indoors

    10 to 12 weeks before the first frost Direct sow beets, carrots, and chard, plus another round of lettuce and radishes

    Transplant seedlings for cabbage, kale, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and other brassicas outdoors

    8 to 10 weeks before the first frost Direct sow spinach, arugula, turnips, mustard, Asian greens, and another round of lettuce and radishes (including winter radishes)
    6 to 8 weeks before the first frost Direct sow another round of spinach and radishes
    On or around the first frost Direct sow garlic, onions, and shallots

    What if you miss your optimal planting window?

    If you miss your optimal planting window, look for early-maturing varieties of your favorite vegetables. This can shave off a couple of weeks from seed to harvest. However, if your crop needs 75 days to mature and you’re only 50 days away from the first frost, the easiest option is to buy starter plants from a nursery and simply set a reminder for yourself to start seeds earlier next year.

    How should you water a fall garden?

    For seeds sown directly outside, be sure to keep the first inch of soil moist and remember that summer-sown vegetables may require watering twice a day. Use an adjustable nozzle set on a gentle spray to ensure your seeds get plenty of consistent moisture during the critical germination period.

    As your plants continue to grow, keep an eye on late summer heat spells or rainstorms that may affect how much water they need day to day. Once the cooler temperatures of autumn arrive, transition to a less frequent watering schedule so the soil doesn’t become waterlogged.

Instead of watching your summer crops struggle to ripen the last few fruits, pull them out and plant some of these quick growing vegetables for your fall garden.

The vegetable garden shines in summer with abundant harvests. As fall approaches, most of the summer crops begin to wind down. Cooler nighttime temperatures and diminishing sunlight takes its toll. The heat loving plants respond by slowly reducing their growth. They struggle to produce that final fruit or vegetable; they devote all their energy to growing and ripening it. The foliage often times shows signs of stress and disease as the plants attempt to give up its final offerings.

Instead of watching your tomatoes, summer squash, and cucumbers struggle to ripen the last few fruits, pull them out and replace them with some quick growing vegetables for a fall garden. You can keep the garden producing healthy crops well into fall by planting some quick maturing vegetables that thrive in the cooler weather and lower daylight hours of autumn.

13 Cool Season Crops Ready in 60 Days:

There are plenty of cool season crops that thrive in autumn. Use your first expected frost date as a guide (look yours up by zip code here: PlantMaps.com). Select cool season crops with short days to maturity for your fall garden. Check the seed package for the average days to harvest and add a week or two to account for the decreased autumn daylight. Many leafy greens will mature within 60 days. These can also be harvested earlier at baby stage for a delicate and delicious salad or an addition to homemade soups.

Even if your growing season is short, you can still enjoy plenty of harvests from your fall garden if you plant the right varieties. So pull out the summer plants that are no longer producing, clear out any weeds, work in some compost into the soil, and sow some of these quick growing fall crops today:

Arugula/Rocket

This spicy green is ready for harvesting in 30 days. The foliage compliments salads and adds zing to soups. Harvest: Begin cutting outer leaves once they are at least 2-inches long. Allow the plant to continue to produce harvests. Varieties to Consider: Salad Rocket, Wild Rocky, and Dragons Tongue.

Baby Carrots

Select early maturing varieties and harvest around 60 days at baby stage for a delicate, sweet flavor. Carrots can withstand some light frosts, but harvest before the ground freezes to prevent the tender, young roots from rotting. Harvest: Ready to harvest when the shoulders are 1/2 to 3/4 inches. Varieties to Consider: Little Finger, Tonda di Parigi, and Thumbelina.

Bok Choy or Pac Choi

Grows rapidly and is ready to harvest in 30 days at baby stage for stir-fries, soups, or salads. Harvest: Snip outer leaves allowing the plants to continue to produce. Varieties to Consider: White Stem Bok Choy and Toy Choi.

The small, tender leaves of kale can be harvested in as little as 30 days and make a nice addition to a fall salad. Kale matures fully in 60 days. Harvest: Snip outer leaves and let the plant continue to produce. Varieties to Consider: Redbor, Dwarf Blue Curled, and Red Winter.

Leaf lettuce varieties mature within 30 days. There are so many colors and leaf shapes to add interest to salads and sandwich toppings. Cooler weather intensifies the color of red leaf varieties. Harvest: Snip outer leaves and let the plant to continue to grow and produce more foliage. Varieties to Consider: Oak Leaf Blend and Mesclun Mix.

Mizuna

The foliage has a slightly bitter, mustard flavor. Small leaves are ready to pick in about 20 days, full heads in 50 days. The texture of the lobed leaves blends well with salad greens and is crisp enough to hold up to steaming and stir-frying. Harvest: Clip young leaves when they are around 3 inches tall or cut the head at the soil level when mature. Varieties to Consider: Mustard Mizuna and Early Mizuna.

Mustard Greens

The peppery, tangy flavored foliage pairs well with other leafy greens in salads. Baby leaves are ready for harvesting within 30 days, 60 days for mature leaves. The flavor intensifies as the plant matures. Harvest: Begin cutting outer leave once they are at least 3-inches long. Allow the plant to continue to grow. Varieties to Consider: Red Giant, Ruby Streaks, and Florida Broadleaf.

Radish

Very fast-growing and their peppery flavor complements soups and salads. Harvest: Ready for harvest in about 30 days or when the radish is around 1-inch diameter. The greens are edible too. Varieties to Consider: Cherry Belle, French Breakfast, and Watermelon Mantanghong.

Scallions or Green Onions

Adds a mild onion flavor to salads, cooked recipes, and stir-fries. Harvest: Ready to harvest at pencil size within 30 days. Pull 6-inch tall scallions at any stage and allow others to develop further. The onion flavor intensifies with age. Hearty varieties overwinter and will begin growing the following spring. Varieties to Consider: Tokyo Long White and White Lisbon.

The vitamin-rich and tasty dark-green leaves are excellent for salads and winter soups. Ready to harvest at baby stage in 30 days, 45 days for mature leaves. Harvest: Snip outer leaves and let the plants to continue to produce. Varieties to Consider: Bloomsdale, Space, and Tyee.

Swiss Chard

The tender, young leaves are ready for harvesting in 45 days. Harvest: Begin harvesting young leaves at 3 inches to use fresh in salads. Pick the outer leaves as needed and let more leaves grow from the center of the plant. Varieties to Consider: Bright Lights, Fordhook Giant, and Celebration.

Tatsoi

The mild mustard flavor of Tatsoi mixes well in salads, stir-fries, and soups. The mild and tender baby leaves are ready for harvesting in 25 days and taste very similar to spinach. The full sized plant can be harvested within 50 days. Harvest: For baby leaves, cut outer leaves once they are about 4 inches or cut tatsoi at the stem when mature. Variety to Consider: Tatsoi Rosette.

Grow turnips for both the greens and roots. Greens are ready to harvest in 30 days, roots in 60 days. Cool fall temperatures sweeten the flavor. Harvest: For greens, cut tops leaving at least 2-inches of foliage. The plant will continue to produce more foliage. Harvest roots at baby stage or allow to size up to 2 to 3 inches in diameter. Varieties to Consider: Golden Ball, Purple Top White Globe, Red Round, and White Egg.

Fall Vegetable Garden Planting Tips:

  • Some seeds, such as lettuce won’t germinate when the temperatures are over 80°F. If the weather is still hot, try Presprouting seeds and grow seedlings under lights indoors. Harden off your seedlings and plant them into the garden when weather cools. Water well and shade the transplants until they become established.
  • Late summer days can be hot. Be sure to water your new fall seedlings well so they don’t wither in the heat.
  • Many of these cool season crops will withstand light frosts when established and with some protection can continue to produce well into winter. Some may even overwinter and begin growing again when the soil warms in spring. It is fun to experiment and discover what you can grow outside the traditional growing season.

Those who garden in areas where frost isn’t expected until November or December have a wider varieties of cool season vegetables they can grow in the fall garden that will mature before the ground freezes. However, even in my zone 5 garden, I can squeeze out a little more garden yields for fall.

You will be surprised what you can grow in your fall garden in as little as 60-days. Try extending your growing season into fall and you will be rewarded with fresh harvests a little longer. Growing fall vegetables in colder climates can be a gamble, but I urge to experiment with different ways to grow more food.

This article was originally published August 20, 2015. It has been updated with additional information and new photos.

You May Also Like:

  • Planting Garlic in the Fall Garden
  • 7 Tips to Prepare Your Garden for Winter
  • 5 Steps to Storing Potatoes for Winter
  • Grow Herbs Indoors: 5 Herbs that Thrive Inside All Winter
  • How to Grow Edibles Indoors

Fall Planting Guide For Zone 6: When To Plant Fall Vegetables In Zone 6

Zone 6 is a relatively chilly climate, with winter temperatures that can drop to 0 F. (17.8 C.) and sometimes even below. Planting fall gardens in zone 6 seems like an impossible task, but there are a surprising number of vegetables suitable for zone 6 fall vegetable planting. Don’t believe us? Read on.

When to Plant Fall Vegetables in Zone 6

You probably won’t find many starter vegetables in your local garden center in autumn, when most gardeners have put their gardens to bed for the winter. However, many cool-season vegetables seeds can be planted directly in the garden. The goal is to get the seedlings planted outdoors in time to take advantage of the last days of summer warmth.

The exception is veggies in the cabbage family, which should be started by seed indoors. Keep

in mind that cabbageand its cousins, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, kohlrabiand kale, tend to grow very slowly when temperatures turn cold.

For direct-planting seeds, when to plant fall vegetables in zone 6? As a general rule of thumb, determine the date of the first expected frost in your area. Although the date can vary, the first frost in zone 6 is generally around November 1. If you aren’t sure, ask at your local garden center or call the Cooperative Extension office in your region.

Once you have determined the likely frost date, look on the seed packet, which will tell you the number of days to maturity for that vegetable. Count back from the first expected frost date to determine the best time to plant that particular vegetable. Hint: Look for fast-maturing vegetables.

Fall Planting Guide for Zone 6

Cool weather brings out the best flavor in many vegetables. Here are a few hardy vegetables that can tolerate frosty temperatures as low as 25 to 28 F. (-2 to -4 C.). Although these vegetables can be planted directly in the garden, many gardeners prefer to start them indoors:

  • Spinach
  • Leeks
  • Radishes
  • Mustard greens
  • Turnips
  • Collard greens

Some vegetables, considered semi-hardy, can tolerate temperatures of 29 to 32 F. (-2 to 0 C.). These should be planted a bit earlier than the hardy vegetables listed above. Also, be prepared to offer some protection during cold weather:

  • Beets
  • Lettuce
  • Carrots (can be left in the garden all winter in most climates)
  • Swiss chard
  • Chinese cabbage
  • Endive
  • Rutabaga
  • Irish potatoes
  • Celery

Mary’s Heirloom Seeds

Zone 6 has slightly longer growing window for gardening compared to Zones 3 and 4. With a last frost date as early as March 30th and first frost date as late as September 30th. First and last frost days may vary by 2 weeks (or more depending on the weather).

If you’d like to get a jump-start on Spring and Fall planting, it is possible to extend your season by starting seeds indoors. A simple setup might be a shop light over a table or as elaborate as a heated greenhouse or multiple racks with lights.
We hope that our USDA Zone Specific SEED planting guide with be a helpful tool in your garden planning and planting!

FEBRUARY
Start seeds indoors: Asparagus, Celery and Onion
MARCH
Start seeds indoors: Arugula, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Eggplant, Kale, Lettuce, Okra, Peppers and Rosemary
APRIL
Start Seeds indoors: Arugula, Beans: bush, pole, lima and dry, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Cucumber, Eggplant, Kale, Lettuce, Okra, Onions, Peas, Peppers, Rosemary, Spinach and Tomatoes
Start Seeds outside: Arugula, Asparagus, Basil, Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Cilantro, Collards, Dill, Endive, Horseradish, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Onion, Oregano, Parsley, Peas, Radish, Rhubarb, Spinach and Turnips
Plant all herb and flower seeds inside or outside depending on weather
Transplant: Asparagus, Celery and Onion
MAY
Start Seeds indoors: Beans: bush, pole, snap and Lima, Cabbage (late), Corn, Cucumber, Onion, Pumpkin, Squash and Watermelon
Start Seeds outside: Arugula, (mid to late May) Beans: bush, pole, snap and lima, Beets, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Carrots, Cantalope, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Collards, Cucumber, Eggplant, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Melons, Muskmelon, Onion, Parsley, Parsnips, Peas: Garden, snap and Southern, Peppers, Pumpkin, Radish, Rhubarb, Rutabaga, Spinach, Summer Squash & Winter Squash, Tomato, Turnip and Watermelon
Plant all herb and flower seeds outside
Transplant: all remaining indoor seedlings
JUNE

There’s still time to plant HERBS and WILDFLOWER seeds!
JULY
Start Seeds outside: Beans: bush, Chard, Corn and Cherry Tomatoes

Start Seeds indoors (for Fall): Broccoli, Kale, Lettuce, Peas and Spinach

SEPTEMBER:

Plant seeds outside: Arugula, Beets, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Onion sets, Radish and Spinach

Sign up for our E-Newsletter
Thanks for signing up!

Gardenate

Recent Comments

  • 30 Jan – Liz at Gardenate
    For Gardenate : Young seedlings can be affected by sudden changes of temperature. To prevent this seedtrays are usually kept under cover for a few weeks. Any area which mantains even, frost-f…
    in Luffa
  • 30 Jan –
    What does plant undercover mean. Inside with a plastic lid?
    in Luffa
  • 30 Jan –
    I would suggest you stake and support the plants. You probably could do both, leave all flowers on some and trim others. Good watering and fertilising will produce good size fruit.
    in Capsicum
  • 29 Jan – Jude Webber
    I have young rainbow beet plants about 20cms high that are being chewed through at base of stem? I have Blitzem pellets on the garden. What could be eating these plants?
    in Silverbeet
  • 29 Jan – Fran Scott
    Hi, Our capsicum plants are loaded with fruit and are flowering profusely. To increase the size of the fruit do we thin the fruit or just let them keep growing. Thank you any advice will be apprec…
    in Capsicum
  • 29 Jan – Anon
    If the soil is very rich they would probably produce a lot of growth before flowering. I had climbing beans in a new rich garden bed and they grew to about 1.2-1.5m before flowering. Plants would …
    in Beans – climbing
  • 28 Jan – James Linn
    That is how I planted mine and I had 2 vines probably 40 to 50 foot spread, 1 vine each pot.
    in Luffa

Read all recent comments

Your comments and tips

Post a comment or question Display Newest first | Oldest first, Show comments for USA | for all countries 23 Jan 20, (New Zealand – temperate climate) My Brussels sprouts plants have a purple tinge on the stems. Are they deficient in some trace element? They also seem to be shedding the bottom leaves which have turned yellow . 27 Jan 20, anon (New Zealand – temperate climate) Sprouts are more a winter thing than Summer I thought. I don’t know about cool climate requirements. 23 Jun 19, Colin Robinson (Australia – temperate climate) I would like to be able to purchase some Brussel tops, as they make a great green to eat with a good roast and the green water makes a fantastic gravy. Do you know anywhere in NSW that I can purchase some? We live in Goulburn NSW 24 Jun 19, (Australia – sub-tropical climate) If you are talking the top of the plant then a farmer who grows brussels. 04 May 19, Tina (USA – Zone 9b climate) I planted my brussel sprout in early October I trimmed back all the lower leaves and I’m barely starting to get fruit now it’s the first weekend in May and I’m getting little fruit about the size of a pencil eraser does it normally take this long? 01 May 19, janet (South Africa – Semi-arid climate) I need the broussel sprouts seeds can I get I an in Kenya 19 May 19, Melony Hendricks (South Africa – Summer rainfall climate) Hi I can mail you some. Let me know if you’re sorted. I’m not a seller. No need to pay me. 10 Mar 19, Rob Lines (New Zealand – temperate climate) I have been growing Brussel sprouts in Christchurch successfully for several years and have found Christmas Day the best time to plant them. They need this long period of pre winter growth to become strong and to form the sprouts. 30 Jan 19, Pab (USA – Zone 9a climate) Cani grow brussel sprouts in the spring and summer 20 Nov 18, ed mccoskey (USA – Zone 6a climate) what is the best variaty to grow in zone 6a Showing 1 – 10 of 132 comments

All About Growing Brussels Sprouts

It is much better to wait until late spring or early summer to start Brussels sprout seeds. Recommended seeding dates for a few locations include March 30 in Rhode Island, May 15 in New York, June 5 in West Virginia, and July 1 in Alabama. Harden off the seedlings before setting them out in well-prepared soil, and plan to cover them with lightweight row cover or tulle to exclude insect pests.

Brussels sprouts are heavy feeders that demand moist, fertile soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. The ideal soil texture for Brussels sprouts is clay, because tight clay helps hold the roots firm when the large plants are blown by harsh winds. Mix in a generous application of a balanced organic fertilizer before planting, and use a biodegradable mulch of grass clippings or coarse compost to insulate the roots from summer’s heat.

For recommended planting dates for your local climate — and to design your garden beds — try our Vegetable Garden Planner.

Growing Brussels Sprouts

Featherweight row cover held aloft with hoops or stakes is the easiest way to protect Brussels sprout plants from grasshoppers and other summer insects. When the plants are 12 inches tall, top-dress them with a high nitrogen organic fertilizer such as composted manure.

As plants grow, stake plants to keep them from falling over. Upright Brussels sprout plants produce better than crooked ones.

Harvesting and Storing Brussels Sprouts

To harvest, twist off sprouts, a few at a time, as soon as they are at least one-half inch in diameter. Keep in mind that the first sprouts are often much smaller than those produced later in the season. Breaking off the lowest leaves gives nearby sprouts more room to grow.

Refrigerate harvested sprouts immediately. Brussels sprouts will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks, or they can be blanched and frozen. Here’s another neat storage option: In the North where the plants grow quite large, they can be pulled from the garden with sprouts still attached, stripped of their leaves, and stuck into a bucket of damp sand kept in a cold root cellar.

Propagating Brussels Sprouts

-Advertisement-

As biennials, Brussels sprouts produce yellow flowers followed by elongated seedpods in their second year. When the seedpods dry to tan, gather them in a paper bag, and allow them to dry indoors for a week. Shatter the dry pods and collect the largest seeds for replanting. Under good conditions, Brussels sprouts seeds will store up to three years.

For growing advice for many more garden crops, check out our complete Crops at a Glance Guide.

Contributing editor Barbara Pleasant gardens in southwest Virginia, where she grows vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers and a few lucky chickens. Contact Barbara by visiting her website or finding her on Google+.

Zone 6 has a medium length growing season, long enough for most vegetables to ripen before frost sets in. Long season varieties – those over 100 days – should be planted with caution and proper frost protection.

A last frost date of late April to mid-May and a first frost date of late September to early October means a frost-free season from late May to mid to late September. These dates are general guidelines, so watch the weather forecasts before planting.

A medium growing season with an average low temperature of -5°F mean starting indoors and providing early and late frost protection, combined with careful choices of maturity rates will give a good harvest.

Scroll down to see the vegetable planting guide. The orange color shows when to start seedlings indoors, the yellow is times to transplant or direct sow and the green is harvest dates.

To find your USDA hardiness zone, click the link. Enter the code on the security pop-up (it is case-sensitive), then enter your ZIP Code to see your zone. If you click where you live, a window will pop up showing your exact zone info.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *