- How to Prevent Rabbits from Eating Impatiens
- OT~ How do I stop rabbits from eating my flowers?
- New Guinea Impatiens Info
- Soil Preparation For The New Guinea Impatiens
- Plants or Seeds
- Planting New Guinea Impatiens
- New Guinea Impatiens Bloom Time
- After Care
- Deterring Deer from Devouring Your Landscape
How to Prevent Rabbits from Eating Impatiens
Impatiens, visually popular garden flowers, sometimes become food for rabbits, which can ruin a season’s worth of hard work in just a few minutes. Impatiens are known as rabbit-resistant plants, but rabbits nevertheless sometimes eat the delicate flowers’ petals and leaves. Providing protection from rabbits for your impatiens can be challenging, but the sight of beautiful, healthy and whole impatiens in your flower garden is worth the effort.
Apply a hot pepper spray to the plants. Available at many gardening stores, hot pepper spray causes a burning sensation in the rabbit’s mouth. This may discourage a rabbit from repeat visits. Most of the sprays are simply applied to the leaves and flowers of the plant, but read the label’s directions.
Sprinkle dried blood around the impatiens. The blood’s scent is typically off-putting to rabbits and will keep them from going near the plant. The nutrients in the blood are also often beneficial to the plant and will melt into the soil.
Place motion-detectors that create sound in the garden. Motion-detectors that produce a loud make noise when tripped are often enough to keep rabbits away.
Plant flowers known to repel rabbits around your impatiens. A variety of annuals, perennials, shrubs and ground covers are known to sometimes keep rabbits away. Forget-me-nots, asters, vinca and rosemary, among others, are often effective in preventing rabbits from getting near and destroying impatiens.
Install a fence around the impatiens. Chicken wire or other wire with openings of 1 inch or smaller are often effective when placed around the flowers. Push the fence 3 to 6 inches down into the ground and wrap the fence completely around the impatiens. Alternatively, bend the bottom of the fence outward at a 90-degree angle and bury the fold several inches below the surface to prevent rabbits from digging underneath.
With all of the time you’ve invested in your garden it would be a shame to have rabbits destroy it. Here you’ll find some plants rabbits wont eat.
While cute, rabbits can be serious garden pests!
There’s nothing quite like the frustration of carefully planting and caring for your garden, only for a family of rabbits to show up and mow your plants right down to the ground!
Rabbits have favorite foods, and that’s why your neighbor’s plants may fare better than yours. But just like most animals, rabbits will eat just about anything if they’re hungry enough!
Rabbits prefer young, tender shoots, and are fond of marigolds, pansies, and petunias, among other flowers.
However, there’s hope for your garden! Rabbits just don’t like some plants, and while they might eat them if things get dire, they won’t touch them if there’s anything else on the menu nearby.
Not sure if you have rabbits? Look around your garden for pea-sized droppings in small piles, or check your plants for chewed marks. Rabbits tend to create a clean cut when they bite, so your plants will look like someone took shears to them.
We’ve assembled a list of more than a dozen ‘rabbit-resistant’ plants that might help your garden weather a family of hungry rabbits!
If you still have problems with rabbits nibbling on your plants, try using repellents to keep the furry critters away from your hard-won garden!
Agave is a long-leaf succulent that forms a rosette shape and is both drought-resistant and perennial. The Century Plant is one of the most popular Agave varieties for gardens.
Agave plants need full sun and gritty, well-draining soil. Most varieties will die after blooming and produce pups from the base to replace themselves.
Ajuga, or Bugleweed plants, are perfect for ground cover, and may be rose, white, or purple. Ajuga plants are evergreen or semi-evergreen and are hardy in zones 3-9.
The plants begin blooming in early spring and continue through midsummer. They do well in any type of light, and while they prefer moist soil, they are drought tolerant.
3. Bee Balm
These dazzling red flowers might not be a rabbit’s favorite food, but hummingbirds sure do love them! Monarda varieties are easy to grow and produce pink, red, violet, or white flowers during summer to early fall.
The flowers are super long lasting and look great in cut flower arrangements. Bee Balm plants love full sun and moist, well-drained soil, and do well in USDA zones 4-9.
4. Black Eyed Susan
Black Eyed Susans are native to North America and are one of the most popular wildflowers grown in gardens. They are members of the Sunflower family, and can grow over 3 feet tall.
Butterflies, bees, and a variety of insects are attracted to these showy flowers, which bloom from June to October. They love moist soil and prefer full sun.
Catnip is not a very showy plant, so it can be planted near more showy blooms, like Purple Cone Flowers. If you have cats, plant the catnip in a place where your cats can rub and roll on it without damaging your other plants.
Catnip plants love lots of light, so make sure they get plenty of it.
Holly is a festive plant with bright green leaves and red berries. Holly loves full sun and moist soil. If you love the look of red berries on your Holly bush, make sure you get the “female” variety, as only those produce berries.
Juniper is a coniferous plant with green, needle-like leaves. These do best with full sunlight, but can survive in partial shade.
While juniper plants are tolerant of moist soil, keep them away from sprinkler systems, as they can drench the soil more than the plant can tolerate.
8. Lemon Balm
Lemon Balm is a perennial herb that does best in cool weather. It will die back in freezing weather, but regrow in the spring. Lemon Balm loves full sunlight but will do well in partial shade, and require regular, even watering.
Lungwort is a lovely shade-loving plant with an ugly name. The flowers can be blue, pink, or white, and there can be more than one color of flower on each plant. Lungwort cannot tolerate full sun, and will wilt quickly if planted in full sunlight.
Lupines are spiky, tall plants that have an interesting texture. They come in both annual and perennial varieties. They love full sun, and will attract butterflies to your garden.
11. Oriental Poppy
Oriental Poppies have bright, huge flowers, and are sure to add some serious “wow” to your garden. They’re easy to grow perennials, and love full sun and well-draining soil.
They need regular watering, but can tolerate short droughts. Poppies do well in zones 3-9.
Periwinkle is toxic to pets, so be careful planting it if your animals are outside unsupervised very often. It’s easy to grow and spreads quickly, and is resistant to drought, heat, and wind.
Periwinkle is typically a perennial and blooms in midsummer.
13. Pincushion Plant
Pincushion flowers do well in zones 4-10, and love well-draining soil. They bloom best in full sun, but partial shade is fine, especially during the hottest months of the year.
14. Red Hot Poker
Red Hot Poker plants are easy to grow, drought and heat tolerant perennials. They are also called Torch Lilies, and are native to South Africa. Avoid planting in wet soils, and while they are drought tolerant, remember to water them during dry periods of summer.
Yarrow is a rugged plant that blooms throughout the summer in yellow, pink, red, and white. The clusters of blooms look wonderful in flower arrangements
Yarrow plants love full sunlight and well-drained soil and can grow up to 2-3 feet tall. Yarrow is a drought-resistant perennial that does well in zones 3-9.
Popular Garden Ideas
Popular Garden Ideas
OT~ How do I stop rabbits from eating my flowers?
amp078- I don’t know this year our rabbits actually started eating the marigolds…first time we have ever had it happen.
We use a product called liquid fence and spray our garden with it it does smell a little bit, but it works wonders we usually re-apply after a heavy rain and are good to go. We use the deer and rabbit formula and it is environmentally friendly which is nice. This is the blurb from the website:
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New Guinea Impatiens Info
Impatiens of all varieties are reliable shade-garden favorites that are hardy in most growing zones across the nation.
While prized for their petite mounds of colorful blooms and easy-care growing habits, one variety is becoming is a stand-out, and that’s the New Guinea impatien.
Larger than other varieties of this annual plant, New Guinea impatiens also produce larger flowers that almost seem to have a touch of florescent color in their blooms that makes them appear to glow under the right lighting conditions.
Use these planting and care tips for New Guinea impatiens to bring a glowing pop of color to your landscape, porch or indoor space.
These proliferant blooming plants need to be grown in partial shade and will do their best planted in a location that is shaded from the afternoon sun.
They will grow equally well when planted in-ground or in a container.
New Guinea impatiens are perfect for growing in hanging baskets and will quickly fill up and spill over a standard size hanging basket when given partial shade and plenty of water.
These plants are also great for filling in bare spots in the landscape when their lighting needs are met.
Too much sunlight will thwart the growth of these delightful annuals and full sun will kill the plants.
Soil Preparation For The New Guinea Impatiens
Loosen soil to the depth of 8-10 inches in the selected planting location. Remove soil and create a 50-50 mixture of soil and compost, then replace the soil and create planting mounds that are 12 inches apart.
A mature plant will reach about 12 inches tall and wide, so allow plenty of growth room when creating mounds.
Plants or Seeds
New Guinea impatiens can be started from either plants or seeds. Plants will give you quicker results and seeds are less expensive, but the end result will be the same.
When starting with seeds you can plant them directly into prepared soil after all danger of frost has past in the early spring or start them indoors in small container 6 weeks prior to the predicted date of the last frost.
Transplant seedlings outdoors when they have reached two inches in height and all danger of frost has past.
When purchasing plants look for plants that have healthy leaves without spots and no pest infestation under the leaves.
Select plants that have no blooms on them if possible. If plants have blooms, pinch them off as soon as they are planted in the soil.
Planting New Guinea Impatiens
Place plants in the center of prepared mounds or prepared container. Place at the same growing height the plants were at in the original containers.
Backfill planting hole, gently firm soil and water impatiens in well.
Add a layer of organic mulch around each plant to retain soil moisture and prevent weed growth.
New Guinea Impatiens Bloom Time
New Guinea impatiens are over-achievers that will bloom from early summer until the first killing frost of fall.
Bloom colors are pink, purple, red, coral, white, orange, lavender, bi-color and tri-color.
Their foliage is glossy and textured, either in a shade of dark green or bi-colored dark green and deep purple.
Since the plants are rapid growers and produce non-stop blooms, they will need regular feeding throughout the growing season.
The compost mixed into the planting soil and the layer of mulch gives them a good foundation of food, but they will need to be fed with a water-soluble plant food every week to keep them healthy and growing strong.
Water during times of drought and any time the plants begin to wilt.
Do not water from overhead, the wet blooms and foliage will quickly cause mildew to grow on the plants since they are not in direct sunlight all day.
Water at the plants at soil level and try to keep the soil consistently moist at all times.
Keep spent blooms pinched off the plants to encourage more blooms.
The blooms are not good for use as cut flowers. New Guinea impatiens blooms are sterile and produce no seeds and can’t be propagated.
The plants are annuals and will need to be re-planted with new plants every year.
Plants can be trimmed at anytime during the growing season to keep them shaped and sized as desired.
In-ground grown plants can be removed from the soil and placed in containers and brought indoors in early fall to prolong their lifespan and bloom time.
All varieties of impatiens are annuals, but with a little extra care the New Guinea impatiens can be over-wintered indoors and re-planted outdoors the following spring.
This over-wintering process can be continued indefinitely with the plant if properly cared for.
To over-winter these stunning little plants, carefully dig it up from the soil before the autumn temperature dips below 40 degree Fahrenheit.
Dig far enough away from the plant so as to not injure the roots.
Place plant in a container that is larger than the soil mound and root system that you removed from the ground.
Place an a couple of inches of fresh potting soil in the bottom of the container before placing the plant in it.
If plant is loose in the container, add enough potting soil around the roots to stabilize plant.
Cut the entire plant back to 1 inch tall.
Water plant and place it in a sunny location away from drafts.
Room temperature should remain in the 70 degree Fahrenheit range during the day, 50 degree range at night.
Water weekly during the winter.
Re-plant outdoors in spring after all danger of frost has past. Water and feed plant immediately after re-planting.
Deterring Deer from Devouring Your Landscape
Hungry spring deer are tough to deter
By Marcia Anderson
Last weekend, right after an afternoon spent toiling in my garden, a deer strolled into the yard and began munching on my freshly planted vegetable plants! The plants hadn’t even been in the ground a few minutes when she nibbled some right down to the ground and pulled others up – roots and all. Later, I found the doe and her two fawns right next to my front steps eating the impatiens and other potted annuals. So much for being able to admire the fruits of my gardening labor!
Springtime finds deer at their hungriest. Fawns are nursing and adults are anxious to gain back weight lost during the winter. An adult deer eats six to 10 pounds of greenery a day. So how can a gardener keep them from eating their entire landscape?
To deter deer, be prepared to alter their environment. Preventing pest problems through foresight, is the first rule of Integrated Pest Management (IPM), which is beneficial to both human health and the environment. IPM is smart, sensible and sustainable approach to pest control that focuses on preventive steps to preclude pests instead of waiting for them to arrive, then having to eradicate them. IPM is smart because it addresses the root causes of pest problems, sensible because it provides for a healthier environment, and sustainable by providing long-term control of pests. Here are some IPM approaches you can use to deter deer from devouring your landscape.
Fencing: An effective method of deer exclusion is installing and maintaining an eight to 10-foot-high deer fence. In my community, however, zoning regulations do not permit fencing taller than six feet. Whitetail deer are quite the jumpers and can scale eight-foot fences, especially if they are really hungry.
But, deer are less likely to jump over a barrier if they cannot see the landing area. You can plant tall, deer-resistant shrubs, like boxwood, Spirea, Andromeda or Weigelia, near the fence line to obstruct their view. Check the Rutgers University deer-resistant plant list for other species and select those that are appropriate for your exposure, soil type and hardiness zone.
Double fencing, parallel fences within a few feet of each other, are also effective deer deterrents. Having a fence with an irregular top creates an optical illusion that makes deer reluctant to jump. A seven-wire slanted fence and fence tops with exclusion wire on angled extensions will also keep deer off your property. Each deer is unique – the same thing that deters one won’t always deter another. A hungry deer is very persistent and will find a way over, under, around or through any barrier that is not tall, strong and attached to the ground.
Repellent Plants: Deer have preferences for certain plants, just as humans prefer some food over others. Every deer is looking to gorge on high-protein, moisture-rich plants. Deer rely heavily on their sense of smell for feeding, so adding patches of pungent plants can act as a natural barrier. Strongly scented herbs, including garlic, chives, mint, lavender, lemon balm, bee balm and oleander, are offensive to deer and can mask the scent of desirable plants. This strategy can help to make your yard less appetizing than that of the surrounding neighborhood.
Resistant Plants: Trade plants that deer find tasty, like tulips, for those they won’t eat, like daffodils. Other plants like lily-of-the-valley, lamb’s ears, lavender, Russian sage, Liriope, Pachysandra and myrtle have been identified as being resistant to deer browsing. They also do not like ornamental grasses, iris, fox glove or yucca. Deer are foragers so they will often taste-test, and, if really hungry, will eat most anything. The following plants are like candy to deer: Impatiens, sunflower, tulip, Hosta, shasta daisy, coneflower, Chrysanthemums and Hyacinth. The Rutgers’ deer-resistant plant list offers additional helpful information.
Chemical and Physical Repellents: Keeping deer out of yards and gardens has become a huge industry in the United States. There are hundreds of commercially available deer repellents that work – but most need to be re-applied after each rain. Repellents also need to be alternated so deer do not acclimate to them. Chemical deer repellents are regulated in some states, so they can only be applied by a licensed applicator in accordance with other restrictions. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resource’s Nuisance Wildlife Repellent Handbook provides a list of some repellents.
Another method that is distasteful to deer is to use one of the many sewage fertilizer or mulch products. However, be cautious about the heavy metal content of these products if using in a vegetable garden. In breezy locations, aluminum pie plates strung on stakes may help to deter deer. Other ways to repel deer are flashing lights at night and motion-activated lights and sprinklers. Remember, deer acclimate so rotate, rotate, rotate your repellent strategies for best results.
Hopefully, these tips will help you naturally deter deer and keep the fruits of your labor – your garden and landscape – intact!
About the Author: Marcia is with EPA’s Center of Expertise for School IPM in Dallas, Texas. She holds a PhD in Environmental Management from Montclair State University along with degrees in Biology, Environmental Design, Landscape Architecture, and Instruction and Curriculum. Marcia was formerly with the EPA Region 2 Pesticides Program and has been a professor of Earth and Environmental Studies, Geology, and Oceanography at several universities.
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