- from our stores – Pickupflowers – the flower expert
- Planting Bulbs: How Long For Bulbs To Grow
- How Long Does it Take for Bulbs to Sprout?
- How Long Does it Take for Flower Bulbs to Grow and Bloom?
- After Bloom Care Of Daffodil Flowers: Caring For Daffodil Bulbs After Blooming
- Daffodil Care Post Bloom
- Daffodil Plant Care
- Tips for Daffodil Care
- 3 Step Daffodil Care and Maintenance
from our stores – Pickupflowers – the flower expert
|Common Name||Scientific Name||Description|
|Cyclamineus Daffodil||Narcissus cyclamineus||Cyclamineus Daffodils have nodding blooms with strongly reflexed perianths and long cups. Flowers come in a wide variety of shades like red, orange, yellow, green, white, and pink.|
|Double-Flowered Daffodil||Narcissus sp. double flowered cultivars||Double-Flowered Daffodil blooms have double numbers of perianths or corona segments, or double numbers of both. Flowers come in a wide variety of shades like red, orange, yellow, green, white, and pink.|
|Jonquil||Narcissus jonquilla||The most fragrant Narcissus, Jonquils have small flowers made up of a small center cup (corona) surrounded by petals (perianth).|
|Poet’s Narcissus, Poet’s Flower, Pheasant’s Eye Narcissus||Narcissus poeticus||In mid to late spring, each stem of the poet’s Narcissus bears one fragrant flower featuring a small yellow central cup (corona) with a red edge surrounded by white petals (perianth).|
|Tazetta Narcissus||Narcissus tazetta||Tazetta Narcissus plants bear many flowers per stem; nearly two dozen small flowers or up to four larger flowers. The flowers have open perianths and small cups.|
|Trumpet-Flowered Daffodil||Narcissus sp. trumpet flowered cultivars||Trumpet-Flowered Daffodils have blooms with flattened outer petals and trumpet shaped cups that flare from their base to a wide, open rim. Flowers come in a wide variety of shades like red, orange, yellow, green, white, and pink.|
|Hoop-petticoat Daffodil||Narcissus bulbocodium||Hoop-petticoat Daffodils are deer-resistant, small (6 inches or less), and bear bright yellow blooms with large cups and tiny, pointed perianths.|
|Triandrus Daffodil||Narcissus triandrus||Triandrus Daffodils usually have more than one flower per stem. Often the petals are reflexed, which means that they sweep backwards as opposed to the faintly forward curve of the perianth in most daffodil classifications.|
|Paper white Narcissus||Narcissus tazetta papyraceous||Paper white Narcissus is one of the easiest bulbs to force for cut flowers or ornamental displays in the home from December to March.|
|Campernelle jonquil||Narcissus odorus||A natural hybrid between the wild jonquil and the wild daffodil. It has two to three large, fragrant, yellow Jonquil flowers.|
|Texas Star jonquil||Narcissus intermedius||It is a natural hybrid between the wild jonquil and the wild narcissus. It has short, pale yellow flowers .|
Narcissus is a good flower for Geminians, who appreciate the Daffodil’s yellow cheerfulness; and Pisceans who appreciate the scented delicacy of the white Narcissus.
Bulbs are the main source of propagation for growing all the species of Narcissus.
- Narcissus bulbs are very easy to grow. Narcissus requires little maintenance. Still, if you could take some minimum care, Narcissus can be more vigorous and floriferous, and they’ll multiply much more quickly, improving the show they provide each year.
- Soil & Site Selection – Narcissus grows almost anywhere, although it does prefer well-drained soils with a sunny or light shade environment. The Narcissus species types are more specific in their requirements.
- Planting Bulbs – Narcissus should be planted from August to November, the earlier the better, at a depth three times the height of the bulb in beds, borders and large containers. In lawns, Narcissus is best planted slightly deeper, at a depth of 15cm.
- Planting Associations – Narcissus looks good planted in borders or in naturalized drifts at the base of deciduous trees. Narcissus looks its best when planted in drifts of eight or more bulbs which then appears more natural.
- Deadheading – When Narcissus flower-heads have faded, it is best to remove them. Otherwise the plant will divert energy from building up the bulb, which is necessary for next year’s display, and put it into seed production.
- Post-Flowering Care – After the Narcissus blooms have faded, the remaining leaves can look unsightly as they yellow. It is important to resist the temptation of removing this foliage early. It contains valuable nutrients that will be used for next year’s crop of flowers. Leave the leaves for at least six weeks after flowering – longer if possible – before removing them.
- Propagation – Divide overcrowded Narcissus clumps in late summer, and plant offsets elsewhere in the garden. The Narcissus species types can be propagated with fresh seed collected during summer and sown in late summer or autumn in pots outdoors.
Narcissus Plant Care
- Like most perennials, Narcissus does well with about 1 inch of water per week while it’s actively growing and blooming – from March to May
- Mulch can be tremendously helpful in conserving moisture in Narcissus plants.
- The best thing you can do for your Narcissus bulbs is to provide them rich, well-drained soil with lots of organic matter in it.
- Most organic bulb fertilizers can be placed right into the planting hole because they’re very gentle and non-burning.
- Since Narcissus is a perennial, every 5 to 10 years, divide the clumps of bulbs in early summer.
- Once flowers are produced, it is best to keep plants away from direct sunlight and in a cool area. This will prolong the flowering period in a Narcissus.
Narcissus are the classic spring-flowering bulb. For many people, appearance of these delicate flowers outside signals the end of winter and the beginning of spring. Indoor gardeners can enjoy Narcissus too. They are generally less than a foot (30 cm) in height and bought already in bloom in decorative pots. Like other spring-flowering bulbs, Narcissus can be forced to bloom, but will require a chilling period of about 12 weeks.
Light: For established plants, place them in bright light as on a east or south windowsill. Bulbs that have not sprouted should be kept away from direct sunlight until new growth emerges and the plants are established.
Water: Many people start Narcissus from bulbs. If you’re doing this, plant the bulbs in moist potting media with the pointed end facing up. Keep the soil continuously moist, but not soaking. They can also be grown directly in stones or gravel by suspending or anchoring the bulbs in the substrate and adding just enough water to reach the base of the bulb. In all cases, it’s crucial to avoid letting the body of the bulb become saturated or sit in water–it will quickly rot. New growth should emerge within a few days to a few weeks after planting, depending on the temperature. The bloom should follow in 4-6 weeks.
Temperature: Cooler (around 65ºF/18ºC).
Soil: Bulbs can be planted in regular potting soil or in pebbles or clay. The key is to keep the balance of moisture right: they should have constant moisture, but never be soaked.
Fertilizer: During growing period, use weak liquid fertilizer weekly. Young plants shouldn’t require fertilizer as they will draw all their nutrition from the bulb itself.
Photo via mgsforum.org
Like other bulbs, Narcissus multiply by putting out new bulbs and forming a clump. However, as with other indoor bulbs, most people discard the plant after bloom or transplant it outside. Offsets aren’t as vigorous as their parents and old bulbs will never bloom again indoors.
Usually not necessary, as the most common indoor Narcissus (Paperwhite) are sold in decorative pots or as planting kits that are designed to be discarded after the 3-week bloom is over. If you do want to save the bulbs, treat like other bulbs: after the bloom is over and the plant has died back, dig up the bulb, dry and clean it, and store in a paper bag or container in a cool, dark place until the next spring.
The Paperwhite Narcissus are frequently sold as blooming kits. These are a great way to get started with bulbs. They don’t require a chilling period and bloom readily with a pot of tall, fragrant flowers. The plants may need staking to remain upright as indoor plants frequently become top heavy in small containers and want to tip over. You can prop them up with bamboo stakes.
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Planting Bulbs: How Long For Bulbs To Grow
Bulb flowers are a springtime joy. These forms of plants require a little pre-planning for the best displays and most blooms. Novice gardeners may wonder how long for bulbs to grow. This depends upon their pre-chilling requirements and your zone. Bulbs purchased at a nursery will usually have a guide on when to plant them and some information on planting bulbs. Find out if you have purchased summer- or spring-blooming bulbs. This gives us a cue on when to plant, thus when they sprout.
How Long Does it Take for Bulbs to Sprout?
Answering the question, “how long does it take for flower bulbs to grow?” may take a little explaining. Spring bulbs grow and bloom when warm temperatures arrive. They only form flowers if they have had the proper chilling period to break dormancy. In most of the country, October is the best time to plant spring bulb flowers. This allows the bulb a chilling period of 12 to 15 weeks, which is necessary for spring bulbs to sprout.
Spring bulb flowers need to experience temperatures of 35 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 7 degrees C.) for up to 15 weeks. The time for bloom after chilling varies by species.
- Tulips need 10 to 16 weeks of chilling and will sprout 1 to 3 weeks after the required period.
- Crocus, grape hyacinth and daffodils have similar spouting times, but crocus and grape hyacinth need 8 to 15 weeks of chilling and daffodils 12 to 15 weeks.
- Snowdrops can begin blooming 2 weeks after chilling and need 15 full weeks of cold temperatures.
- Iris and hyacinths need 13 to 15 weeks of chill period and will also sprout 1 to 2 weeks after the requirement is fulfilled.
Lazy gardeners never have to fear if they didn’t plant their spring bulb flowers in the fall. You can purchase bulbs in spring which have been pre-chilled or you can chill your bulbs through winter yourself in your vegetable crisper. Allow for the appropriate number of weeks and keep bulbs away from ripening fruit like apples and tomatoes.
You can use these methods to bring bulbs indoors for an earlier bloom.
- Plant bulbs in a pot that is twice as deep as the bulb in a soilless mixture. Soilless mixes help prevent rot, which is a common problem in container bulbs.
- Try planting bulbs without soil on a 2- to 3-inch layer of glass beads or rocks. Add just enough water to reach the very bottom of the bulb.
Once proper chilling periods are fulfilled, you should see the bulb sprouting in just a few weeks.
How Long Does it Take for Flower Bulbs to Grow and Bloom?
The actual time to flowering will depend on several factors including adequate water, lighting, soil type and heat. On average, spring bulbs will start to flower very quickly after their chilling period has been met and warm temperatures remove dormancy. Flowers usually form 2 to 3 weeks after the chill period is over, which is a week or so after they sprout. The process is quite speedy but, fortunately, most spring bloomers are long lasting and produce a color show for a week or more.
Some bulbs require no chill period such as paperwhite, amaryllis and freesia. These are ideal for the gardener who forgot to plant their spring display and can grow easily indoors or outside once all danger of frost has passed.
After Bloom Care Of Daffodil Flowers: Caring For Daffodil Bulbs After Blooming
Daffodils are familiar bloomers that light up the garden with bright color in early spring. They are surprisingly easy to grow and will last for many years with very minimal care. Although daffodils are amazingly easy to get along with, caring for daffodil bulbs after flowering is essential. Read on for tips on what you need to know about the care of daffodil flowers after blooming.
Daffodil Care Post Bloom
Remove daffodil blooms as soon as they fade; otherwise, the bulbs will exert considerable energy attempting to create seeds. However, remove only the bloom and stem, not the leaves. This is the critical aspect of daffodil care after they bloom.
Why do we leave the unsightly foliage in place? In simple terms, the leaves absorb energy from sunlight, and through the process of photosynthesis, the energy is converted into chemicals that produce sugar – the food that keeps bulbs blooming year after year. If you remove the foliage too early, the bulbs will be stunted, which results in smaller and fewer blooms in the following year.
This also explains why daffodils should be planted in bright sunlight. If your daffodils are planted in partial or full shade and they don’t produce big, healthy blooms, you might want to dig them and move them to a sunnier location after the foliage dies down.
Leave the foliage in place until it dies down and turns yellow. Usually, this takes about six weeks. If the appearance of the dying foliage is driving you crazy, don’t braid the leaves or bunch them in rubber bands, which reduces the amount of sunlight available to the leaves. Instead, consider ways to camouflage the leaves. For example, plant perennial plants that will hide the dying foliage as they grow in spring.
Daffodil Plant Care
Water daffodils generously while the plant is blooming, but keep the soil relatively dry when the plants are dormant during the summer.
Provide a handful of bulb fertilizer or any general-purpose fertilizer when shoots poke through the ground in early spring. Be sure to fertilize the soil around the daffodil plant, but keep the fertilizer off the foliage.
Divide daffodils every three to five years, or whenever you notice that flowers are smaller in size or number. Divide the plant when the foliage is dying but still visible so you can see where to dig.
Tips for Daffodil Care
Brent and Becky Heath know daffodils. They grow fields of them at their bulb farm, Brent and Becky’s Bulbs, in Gloucester, Virginia. Here are some of their tried-and-true tips for success.
- “Never cut daffodils,” says Brent. “Always pick them. When you cut them, they have a shorter stem, and the stem is hollow. It doesn’t draw water very well, and the flowers don’t last. If you pick them, reach all the way down to the very base of the stem to snap it off. You get a much longer stem with that solid white part at the end that soaks up water and holds it. Daffodil flowers last beautifully when gathered this way.”
- Brent also suggests “companion planting” your drifts of daffodils with daylilies. “Perennials that bloom after the daffodils will help use up any soil moisture so that the bulbs stay dry and healthy. Daylilies are particularly handy because they’re very low maintenance, and the growing daylily foliage will nicely disguise fading daffodil foliage.”
- The farther south you garden, the more careful you need to be about choosing daffodils that need less chilling. “For most daffodil bulbs to root successfully,” explains Brent, “the soil temperatures at 6 inches deep have to be 60 degrees or below. You can actually dig a hole and leave a thermometer in it for 5 minutes, or just make assumptions from the air temperature. By the first frost, soil temperatures tend to be cool enough, or after the air temperatures have been in the 30s or 40s for a while. Some daffodils that will perennialize even in areas with uncertain winters are ‘St Keverne,’ ‘Carlton,’ ‘Avalanche,’ and selections from the jonquilla and tazetta divisions of daffodils.”
- “Don’t just fertilize with bonemeal and expect good long-term results,” says Brent. “It has no potash (potassium), little nitrogen, and is mainly just phosphorus, which can tie up other nutrients in the soil. Holland Bulb Booster, with ratio of 9-9-6, is one of the best all-round commercial timed-release fertilizers for bulbs, especially tulips. Daffodils like a little more potassium, though, so we offer our own Daffodil Fertilizer (10-10-20), made to our specifications.
- “If you want to create a natural, graceful planting,” says Brent, “try to lay out the bulbs in large, fluid sweeps of just a few kinds of daffodils. The initial investment for several hundred or even thousands of daffodil bulbs may seem high, but it will be one of your least expensive landscape improvements because of their longevity and minimal maintenance.”
- Most daffodils will perennialize better when planted at a depth that equals at least three times their height. That’s 6 to 8 inches deep for large bulbs, 3 to 6 inches for medium-size bulbs, and 2 to 3 inches for bulbs that are 1 inch in diameter or smaller. The reason for this, Brent explains, is that the soil pressure actually helps keep the bulb from splitting up too readily. Plant too shallowly, he says, “and bulbs tend to split up too quickly. You end up with bigger clumps, but smaller bulbs and fewer, smaller flowers.”
- When it’s time to feed your daffodil bulbs in the fall, there won’t be any foliage showing to help you remember where you planted them. Brent cleverly suggests outlining the drifts of daffodils with smaller bulbs, such grape hyacinth (Muscari sp.) or star flower (Ipheon sp.), whose leaves do come up in the fall. Or, he says, “Golf tees work well. Set them at the edges of the planting in late spring before the foliage dies down. They don’t get pulled up accidentally because they’re too low to the ground for a mower, and they’re colorful enough to find later on.”
3 Step Daffodil Care and Maintenance
Daffodils are one of Spring’s first flowers to bloom. They bring a burst of life and color to desolate winter flowerbeds. If you have daffodils in your garden, you should follow these simple steps to get the best blooms for years to come.
- Deadhead daffodils
- Tie green leaves
- Cut yellowing leaves
Deadheading is a common gardening practice. To deadhead daffodils, or any flower, use your thumb and forefinger to pinch the stem just below a flower blossom. Then, pluck the flower blossom off. Blossoms should be deadheaded once the petals start to lose color and wither. Deadheading daffodils prevents them from producing seed. That means they will have more energy to conserve for the rest of the season.
After you have deadheaded all of your daffodils, you should also use their own leaves to tie them. Simply pull a clump of leaves together, separate 3-5 leaves from the bunch, and fold the bunch over in half. Now use the separated leaves to secure the bunch. Tying daffodils keeps your garden looking tidy and prevents the leaves from lying on other plants. When caring for daffodils, you should tie the leaves instead of cutting them so that the daffodils can continue to harvest light from the sun.
About 8 weeks later, or when you notice the bunches of daffodil leaves yellowing, you should remove the leaves at the base with hand pruners. Once the leaves have started to yellow and wither, the daffodil has run its life cycle for the year. Removing the leaves will prevent mold and pests from collecting in your garden.
Follow these three easy steps to care for your daffodils, and your flowers will return larger and more plentiful year after year. If you are still apprehensive about gardening, we will be posting a youtube video that shows the whole process for daffodil care and maintenance.