Companion plants for peas

{Carrots love Tomatoes – One of my favorite gardening books!}

I don’t know about you, but I am a big fan of companion planting.

Companion planting operates on the basic premise that certain plants play nicer together than others. Some plants function to bring out the flavor of another, deter unwanted insects, attract wanted insects, and compliment the soil.

On the flip side, some plants cause other plants nothing but root-ache and grief, so you want to avoid planting them near one another. If you are interested in gardening organically, companion planting is a great way to work with mother nature.

Here’s a basic companion planting guide to get you started as you plant the layout of your garden this year:

Plant Name

Plant Close To:

Keep Away From:


Basil Most Garden Crops–especially tomatoes and lettuce Rue Mosquitoes
Bush Beans Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Catnip, Cauliflower, Corn, Cucumbers, Marigolds, Potatoes, Savory, Strawberries Fennel, Garlic, Leeks, Onions, Shallots
Pole Beans Corn, Marigolds, Potatoes, Radishes Beets, Garlic, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Onions, Shallots
Beets Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Bush Beans, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Chard, Kohlrabi, Onions Charlock, Field Mustard, Pole Beans
Borage Squash, Strawberries Tomato Worms
Broccoli and Brussels Sprouts Beets, Buckwheat, Calendula, Carrots, Chamomile, Dill, Hyssop, Marigolds, Mints, Nasturtiums, Onions, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme, Wormwood Strawberries
Cabbage and Cauliflower Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Celery, Chard, Spinach Strawberries
Cantaloupe Corn
Carrots Cabbage, Chives, Early Potatoes, Leeks, Lettuce, Onions, Peas, Radishes, Rosemary, Sage, Salsify, Wormwood
Chives Apples, Berries, Carrots, Grapes, Peas, Roses, Tomatoes Aphids and Japanese Beetles
Corn Beans, Cucumbers, Early Potatoes, Melons, Peas, Pumpkins, Soybeans, Squash
Cucumbers Beans, Cabbage, Early Potatoes, Radishes, Sunflowers Late Potatoes
Dill Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Cucumber, Lettuce, Onions Carrots
Eggplant Green Beans, Peppers, Potatoes, Tomatoes
Garlic Cabbage, Cane Fruits, Fruit Trees, Roses, Tomatoes Peas, Beans Japanese Beatles and Aphid, Ermine Moths, and Late Potato blight.
Kale Aromatic herbs, Buckwheat, Cabbage Family, Marigolds, Nasturtiums Pole Beans, Strawberries
Kohrabi Cabbage/Cauliflower Companions {except tomatoes} Fennel, Pole Beans, Tomatoes
Lettuce Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Radishes, Strawberries Cabbage Family
Marigolds All Garden Crops Bean Beetles, Aphids, Potato Bugs, Squash Bugs, Nematodes, and Maggots
Marjoram All Garden Crops
Mustard Alfalfa Cover Crops, Fruit Trees, Grapes, Legumes
Nasturtiums Apples, Beans, Cabbage Family, Greenhouse Crops, Potatoes, Pumpkins, Radishes, Squash Aphids, Potato Bugs, Squash Bugs, Striped Pumpkin Beetles, and Mexican Bean Beetles. Destroys whiteflies in greenhoues.
Onions Beets, Cabbage Family, Carrots, Chamomile, Lettuce, Parsnips Beans, Peas Many insects/pests–especially maggots
Oregano All Garden Crops Many insects/pests
Parsley Corn, Roses, Tomatoes
Parnips Onions, Radishes, Wormwood
Peas Beans, Carrots, Corn, Cucumbers, Early Potatoes, Radishes, Turnip Garlic, Leeks, Onions Shallots
Peppers Basil, Carrots, Eggplant, Onions Parsley Tomatoes Fennel, Kohlrabi
Potatoes Basil, Beans, Cabbage Family, Corn, Eggplant, Flax, Hemp, Margolds, Peas, Squash Apples, Birch, Cherries, Cucumbers, Pumpkins, Raspberries, Sunflowrs, Tomatoes, Walnuts
Radishes Cervil, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Melons, Peas, Nasturtiums, Root Crops Hyssop Cucumber Beetles
Rosemary Beans, Cabbage, Carrots Bean Beetles, Cabbage Moths, and Carrot Flies
Sage Cabbage Family, Carrots, Tomatoes Cucumbers Cabbage Moths and Carrot Flies
Soybeans Corn, Potatoes
Spinach Celery, Cauliflower, Eggplant, Strawberries
Strawberries Borage, Bush Beans, Lettuce, Pyrethrum, Spinach Cabbage Family
Sunflowers Cucumbers Potatoes
Swiss Chard Bush Beans, Kohrabi, Onions Pole Beans
Tarragon All Garden Crops
Thyme All Garden Crops Cabbage Moths
Tomatoes Asparagus, Basil, Carrots, Gooseberries, Mustard, Parsley, Onions, Rosemary, Sage, Stinging Nettles Fennel, Kohlrabi, Potatoes, Walnuts
Turnips and Rutabagas Peas Knotweed, Mustard

Are you ready to start your garden but you’re not sure when you should plant your seeds or set out your transplants? Head on over HERE and you’ll be taken to a handy dandy chart that is broken down into what vegetables should be planted {or transplanted} each month in your area.

Anyone can do this. Dirt + Seeds+ Water = Food!


Gardening books hold kind of a special place in my heart. I wouldn’t be the gardener I am today {or maybe not a gardener at all} if it weren’t for a few gardening books I picked up years ago. I spent almost the entire winter of 2008/2009 reading up on gardening. I found some incredible reads that taught me so much and made me realize how much I didn’t know. So I’ve never stopped reading gardening books.

Here are just a few of my favorites, although if we’re being honest, narrowing this list down was virtually impossible. Gardening books are right up there with the bible {okay, not quite, but you get the idea!}.

My Favorite Garden Books:

  • Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting
  • The Complete Compost Gardening Guide
  • Mini Farming: Self-Sufficiency on 1/4 Acre
  • Sugar Snaps and Strawberries
  • The Gardener’s A-Z Guide to Growing Organic Food
  • The Kitchen Gardener’s Handbook

Companion Planting Peas ~ Sweet Peas

Best Companions

Squash, Lettuce


“Companion Planting is the growing together of all those elements and beings that encourage life and growth; the creation of a microcosm that includes vegetables, fruits, trees, bushes, wheat, flowers, weeds, birds, soil, microorganisms, water, nutrients, insects, toads, spiders, and chickens.” – John Jeavons, How to Grow More Vegetables Than You Ever Thought Possible

Good candidates to companion plant with peas are Squash – when squash follows peas up trellis. Lettuce, radishes, carrots, turnips, cucumbers, corn ,beans, spinach .

Avoid all onion family plants particularly Garlic, as they are proven to stunt peas growth and vice-verse. .

Sweet peas will attract pollinating insects which helps with open pollinated plants. Flowers such as sweet alyssum, roses, lavender will benefit from being in the vicinity of sweet peas

Peas will be hampered when they are too close to Gladiolus – Peas don’t fare well with gladiolus. Peas are cool-season vegetables , gladiolus bloom in the summer, the gladiolus bloom begins at an inconvenient time, while the peas are still producing and robs essential nutrients stifling their development.

Other flowers in the lilly family should also be kept a safe distance from peas for the very same reason, as well as the fact that they are bulbous and it is suggested that some cultivars, exhibit the same semi-alleopathic behavior as alliums.


Avoid planting peas too close to Tomatoes. Peas are carriers of Fusarium Crown and Root Rot. The majority of the time they can be grown together with no detrimental effects, but statistically – if you keep inter-planting them it will eventually come back to bite you in the butt.

Avoid Fennel which is allelopathic to most garden plants. It exudes compounds designed by nature to eliminate competing plants from its immediate area. Dill is one of the few garden crops that can be grown with it.


Peas can be successfully grown with early Potatoes. They repel the Colorado potato beetle. . However – Avoid planting them with or near late season potatoes, for the same reasons you avoid planting them with Tomatoes , which are close relatives of potatoes.

Onions all emit a pungent aroma which repels many insects. Garlic, a related crop, also releases sulfur into the soil that is beneficial to Tomatoes and detrimental to soil borne pathogens. Onions and alliums will repel nearly all varieties of aphids.


Squash and peas make good candidates for companion planting when using a trellis. Early peas are best, they will climb the trellis while the squash is maturing at the bottom. The peas will be harvested or harvestable and have fixed some nitrogen in the soil for the squash, which will then follow the peas up the trellis.

Spinach is sometimes suggested as a companion for peas. They will grow together just dandy and there are no notable antagonistic effects other than competition for resources when grown too close.


Legumes and Beans which include peas grow well with lettuce. In one study Okra and Lettuce + Squash and lettuce planted in conjunction with beans produced yields of 45 -66% higher than those of beans planted by themselves.

God’s Garden, My Life – Bonnie J. Lee


Peas grow well with Carrots due to the nitrogen fixing properties of the peas which theoretically help to satiate the nutrient requirements of carrots. Carrots however are not heavy feeders , they don’t require excessive nitrogen so although the peas and legumes planted with carrots is not a bad thing, it doesn’t do a whole heck of a lot for the carrots.


Experience has taught me that cucmbers and peas do not fare well together as the competition for space and the vines intertwining and strangling each other out outweighs the advantages – UNLESS- you time it correctly .



Seeds germinate better if they are soaked over night before sowing.

Sow outdoors: Sweet peas don’t like their roots to be disturbed and so its better if you can sow them directly into your garden beds or large containers – this saves damaging seedlings when you transplant them from punnets or seed trays.

Sow seeds a finger-tip deep and about a hand’s length apart in soil that has been well dug through and enriched with plenty of compost or well-rotted manure and water well. When seedlings get to about a hands’ length in height pinch out the growing tip to stimulate bushy growth. This helps to produce stronger plants that should flower well.

Sow indoors: It is okay to sow sweet peas into punnets and trays as long as you are careful with their long tap roots come planting time. If you are going to grow them through winter and plant outdoors in spring then sow into pots and grow on in a cool greenhouse or cold frame.

Sow seeds a finger-tip deep in punnets or trays filled with seed raising compost and water well. One or two seeds per individual planting cell is enough – you can pinch out the weaker one when they have sprouted and have a couple of pairs of leaves. When sowing in trays, space seeds about a finger’s length apart. Place in a cold frame, on a cool windowsill or in a cool greenhouse. When seedlings are about a finger length tall, transplant them into larger pots – something about a full hand’s length deep would be good.


Plant seedlings carefully. Dig a hole that is just deeper than the plant pot your seedlings have been growing in. Ease seedlings form pots, causing as little disturbance to the roots as possible and lay them along the palm of your hand. Lower them into the hole. Whilst gently holding the seedlings and allowing the soil and roots to hang into the hole, backfill around it them. Gently pat down soil around the surface. Sweet peas should be planted about two hands’ lengths apart – you don’t want to plant them too close or they can become susceptible to powdery mildew due to poor ventilation.

How to Grow Beans and Peas

By Charlie Nardozzi, The Editors of the National Gardening Association

Peas and beans grow best in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. Planting in raised bed keeps pea seeds from getting soggy while they germinate in cool spring weather and warms the soil for the beans, which you plant later. Peas and beans like moderately moist soil that isn’t heavily amended with fertilizer.

Here are some other growing tips:

  • Prepare the soil: Work a 2- to 3-inch layer of composted manure worked into the soil before planting. For poor soils with low fertility, add an organic fertilizer high in phosphorous and potassium, such as 5-5-5.

  • Determine when to plant: Plant beans after the soil reaches 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant small batches of bush beans every week or so. Peas like cool soil; plant as soon as the soil dries out in the spring.

    You can plant peas 3 to 4 weeks before the last frost date if the soil is ready. Pea seeds germinate better in 60- to 70-degree soil, but if you wait until the soil is warmer, by the time the peas begin flowering, the air temperature is too warm (above 80 degrees), and your plants and production suffers.

  • Space properly and provide support: The following guidelines can help determine spacing and support needs:

    Plant bush beans seeds in rows 1 to 2 feet apart. Then thin the bean seedlings to 4 to 6 inches apart.

    Plant peas less than 1 inch apart in rows 6 inches apart.

    Pole beans, and tall varieties of peas like to climb poles or fences. A 4- to 5-foot fence is good for most peas, and a 6- to 8-foot pole is good for pole beans.

    Climbers versus twiners.

  • Fight pests and diseases: Protect your beans and peas from pests and disease.

    Here are the most troublesome of the bean and pea problems:

    • Bald heading: Insects can cause your bean seedlings to emerge from the soil without leaves. Leafless beans don’t produce any crops; pull them out and replant.

    • Mexican bean beetle: This orange-yellow shelled bug has 16 black spots on it. Adult beetles lay orange eggs on the undersides of maturing bean plants. When the eggs hatch, the young emerge to feed on the bean leaves. To control these pests, crush the egg masses.

    • Rust: This causes your plants to develop red or orange spots on their leaves, and then yellow and die. To prevent rust disease, clean up debris and till your garden in fall. The next growing season, move beans to another location.

    • Pea aphid: These pear-shaped, 1/8-inch, green insects suck the juices from pea leaves and stems, causing stunted growth or wilting. If your plants are severely affected by these insects, spray the plants with Safer’s insecticidal soap.

    • Pea enation virus: Pea enation virus is a particular problem for peas grown in the Pacific Northwest. The virus, spread by aphids, causes plants’ leaves and pods to be stunted and deformed. The best solution is to grow disease-resistant varieties such as ‘Cascadia‘.

How to Plant and Grow Peas and Beans

In many locations peas can be planted in late winter or early spring. Or, if your location stays cold well into spring, it is possible to get seeds going indoors to transplant outside a little later. This means you’ll be seeding fragrant, ornamental sweet peas as well as their edible counterparts: snap peas, snow peas, and shelling peas. And, harvests from each can begin rolling in while days are still cool — well before the first days of summer. But, once summer heat begins to take over, the days for early-planted peas may be numbered. Under the stress of heat, pea plants may begin to toughen, whither, lose productivity, and even succumb to ugly mildew diseases. When that happens, it’s time to harvest a last bundle of flowers, pea pods, and any remaining tender, edible pea shoots. Then feed your compost pile with any remaining pea plant parts.

The good news is that once the heat of summer has warmed garden soils, it’s time to plant beans. Scarlet Runners, Rattlesnake, and other “pole” beans thrive by growing up, as did many spring-planted peas. So, rather than remove and store your pea trellises and poles when you pull out the plants, simply sow your summer beans in their place. Within several weeks, your plants will be ascending skyward, flowering, and soon yielding a bounty of beans for your table.

Beans grow in many kinds of soil, not especially rich. Bush snap beans yield a tremendous harvest. They can blossom and bear more than one crop, but the older vines are more susceptible to disease and pests. Successive sowings of bush snap beans can be made at 10 day intervals up to August first.

The Mexican bean beetle does show up in many gardens. The plants may still produce well but the sight of the ravaged foliage is repellent. The annual herb, summer savory, may help keep the pests away. (Note: Sow the fine seed of savory in a flat, then transplant the seedlings in a row parallel to the beans.) Called “the bean herb”, summer savory goes with beans in cooking, too.

Perhaps the best control is hand‐picking of the black spotted yellow beetles. Wipe off the egg clusters that lay on the undersides of the leaves. The fuzzy yellow larvae do most of the damage. Infested plants should be pulled out of the garden after the harvest. Clean debris of course, makes good mulch or compost material.

For all‐round usefulness. the quick‐growing bush snap beans green or wax (yellow) are best. Pole beans are somewhat more tender and take longer to grow. But they bear through the season and yield heavily in a small space. Train‐ the vines on poles, a trellis or, Indian fashion, around a cornstalk. Two vines per stalk is enough. A thick dense screen keeps out sun and air, and encourages disease.

If flavor is the criterion, my favorite snap beans are the old variety, pole bean, Kentucky Wonder and the flatpodded Italian, Romano. Bush Kentucky Wonder is called Commodore.

Limas have peerless flavor. They are tender and can’t be planted until air and soil are thoroughly warm. I plant in early June, pick the first beans in late August and keep on picking until frost. Pole limas are even more prolific but they need three months of warm weather before they even start bearing. I have found limas more resistant than bush snap beans to the Mexican beetle.

What about soy beans, the most nutritious of all vegetables? The variety Kanrich takes approximately three and a half months of warm weather from seed to the first picking. It can be started inside in peat pots, like tomatoes then transplanted outside. For a home garden in the Northeast, the varieties Early Green Bush and Giant Green are quicker ‐ maturing and more practical.

Pea Plant Companions: What Are Plants That Grow With Peas

You’ve heard the saying “just like two peas in a pod.” Well, the nature of companion planting with peas is akin to that idiom. Companion plants for peas are simply plants that grow well with peas. That is, they are mutually beneficial to one another. Perhaps they ward off pea pests, or maybe these pea plant companions add nutrients to the soil. So just which plants make good garden pea companions?

Companion Planting with Peas

Companion planting is a form of polyculture and basically means planting different crops near each other for mutual benefit. The benefits of companion planting for peas or any other vegetable may be for pest control or aid in pollination. Companion planting may also be used to maximize garden space or to provide habit for beneficial insects.

Also, in nature, there is generally a great deal of plant diversity in any one ecosystem. This diversity strengthens the ecosystem and reduces the ability of any one pest or disease to decimate the system. In the home garden, we usually only have a scant variety and, in some cases, perhaps everything is from the same family, leaving the door open for certain pathogens to infiltrate the entire garden. Companion planting diminishes this chance by creating a more diverse community of plants.

Plants that Grow Well with Peas

Peas grow well with a number of aromatic herbs including cilantro and mint.

Leafy greens, such as lettuce and spinach, are excellent garden pea companions as are:

  • Radishes
  • Cucumbers
  • Carrots
  • Beans

Members of the Brassica family such as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cabbage are all suitable pea plant companions.

These plants also pair nicely with peas in the garden:

  • Corn
  • Tomatoes
  • Turnips
  • Parsnips
  • Potatoes
  • Eggplant

Just like some people are drawn together and some people are not, peas are repelled by the planting of certain crops near them. They do not like any member of the Allium family, so keep the onions and garlic at bay. They also don’t appreciate the beauty of gladioli, so keep these flowers away from the peas.

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