Caring for ferns indoors

How to Care for Ferns (Indoor and Outdoor)

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Do you know that ferns have ten thousand different species? Yes, they have. But the caring process for each of them is more or less the same.

Ferns are mainly native to the tropical and sub-tropical rain forests so clearly they do not need direct sunlight to thrive properly.

Most fern species love the comparatively darker area to grow but the Boston species, which is one of the most sought-after species of ferns, needs a brighter area to flourish. Find out more about the different types of ferns along with their growth habits, and care requirements.

Ferns are the only species which can be placed both indoor and outdoor. The light and airy ferns are suitable for keeping near your bed or in the living room and the bushy ones are the perfect fit for our balconies.

Ways on How to Take Care of Ferns (Indoor and Outdoor)

Here are some of the easiest ways through which you can properly take care of both outdoor and potted ferns.

1. Keeping or hanging the fern pots in the appropriate location

The first and foremost thing is placing the fern pot in an appropriate area where it gets plenty of indirect sunlight.

For indoor ferns

If you are keeping the fern pot indoor, then try to keep it near the window but not in front of it, as the sunlight will affect it badly. Place the pot aside from the window and keep the window open in the morning.

The morning breeze and indirect light are crucial for a thriving fern. In summertime close the window after 12 noon as the temperature increases afterward. And certainly, in winters keep the window open as much longer as possible.

For outdoor ferns

We mostly hang the fern pots in our balconies or put them on the edge. There they will get enough light, though be careful of keeping them out of direct sunlight.

As our balconies face most of the daily heat from the sunlight, the ferns will easily die. So make sure that the place where you are keeping the fern pots is comparatively under indirect heat.

2. Maintaining the correct temperature for the ferns

These plants do not like too high or too low temperatures. They grow preferably in a medium temperature ranging from 60° to 75°F.

For the indoor ferns

Temperature is one of the most vital factors for keeping ferns alive indoors. Kitchens and bathrooms are the perfect places to keep them. But if the temperature of your bedroom and the living room goes up, which will certainly happen in the summertime, you need to cool it down. For that, you can use your air condition or in case you do not have one you have to water them consistently.

For the outdoor ferns

The summer season becomes very rough as the indirect heat makes these plants dry very quickly. If the heat gets out of control and continuous watering also does not work then probably you must bring any potted ferns inside. Though in the evening you can put them back into their place as evening breeze will keep them fresh.

3. Humidity should be kept under control

With high moisture level in the air, ferns grow very well. You can keep the humidity level higher manually for your indoor as well as outdoor ferns.

To keep the humidity level high, double pot your fern. First, select a pot which is larger than the pot you have planted your fern.

Then cover it with moss soaked in water.

Now put the second pot into the larger pot and cover the soil with a layer of wet moss. It will lock the humidity in the pots which will help the fern to flourish well.

But do not forget to mist the moss frequently. Also, you can use a humidifier. In that case, put the humidifier near the pot.

Misting will work in an adequate amount where misting frequently may result in spotting.

4. Watering your indoor or outdoor ferns regularly

I know we are busy people but frankly speaking, the easiest way to keep your ferns fresh and lively is by keeping the soil moist properly.

Ferns generally need very little care; the only thing they need most is moisture. Regularly watering them will keep them healthy for a long time. Indoor ferns need less watering than outdoor ferns.

You just have to keep the soil moist. As ferns do not really need lots of water, never flood it, or let it stand in water. Make sure the pots have proper drainage holes.

These holes are also suitable for the roots of the ferns to grow properly. Otherwise, they will get stuffed in the little space.

So remember to make a drainage hole and moist the soil when needed.

5. Detach the dead parts from your fern

Ferns are by nature very hardy and barely get affected by any disease. For this reason, people like to plant ferns inside their house.

But in any case, if your fern gets affected by any disease, it is better to cut the deceased parts before it contaminates the whole fern.

In-house ferns get mostly affected by diseases because of improper light and air. A sick fern is also unhealthy to keep inside the home.

So if you see that the whole plant is affected then cut it from the root. There is no point in nourishing them further.

The outdoor ferns get sufficient light but still, they can get affected for various reasons. If in any case, insects started to form in your fern, then cut the portion of the plant as it is injurious to the rest of the foliage.

6. Fertilization of your ferns

Ferns are not that type of plant which needs a larger amount of fertilizing to grow and flourish. Rather they need it in a very negligible quantity.

If you have your own garden then you can make the fertilizer at home from dry leaves and branches. Then mix it with the soil of your fern.

Or, you can use liquid fertilizer bought from the store for indoor ferns in pots. Remember to use organic fertilizer as it will be safe for the plant as well as for your health.

Liquid fertilizers are very easy to use. Some fertilizers are instructed to mix with water and then spray on the plants.

You can start fertilizing after 6 months from planting the fern. And continue to fertilize it once in a month in an adequate amount as an inappropriate amount can burn the whole plant.

7. Final step involving transplanting or repotting of your fern

The best thing with ferns is you do not need to buy several seedlings of the same species. Suppose if you like the Boston fern which is my favorite, just plant one, and it will give you much more over a year.

Ferns usually grow larger and bushy in one year. So after each year, you need to replace it with a bigger pot.

This process will be hectic and the caring process will also take a longer time. So before repotting them, separate the roots carefully from the soil in the older pot.

As they grow in clumps the separation process becomes easy. Now plant them in different pots and take care of them individually.

Consider repotting at least once in a year to keep your ferns healthy.

by gMandy | Updated : November 17, 2016

Growing Ferns Indoors

Ferns are relatively easy to grow; however, drafts, dry air and temperature extremes won’t help. Ferns that are pampered and protected from things like dry air and temperature extremes will reward you with lush green fronds all year round, beautifying your indoor garden more than you could imagine. Let’s learn more about growing ferns indoors.

Tips for Growing Ferns Indoors

There are a lot of species of tropical and subtropical ferns, but there are also a lot of ferns that are native to more temperate climates. These ferns would be well suited to cooler parts of the house but won’t survive in rooms that are too well heated. Tropical ferns survive best in homes with central heating. Below are recommend indoor conditions for optimal fern growth:

Humidity

All ferns love moisture and should be given humid conditions. In living rooms and family rooms, stand their pots on trays of damp pebbles or clay granules. Ferns also love being misted at regular intervals with tepid, soft water unless the humidity of the whole room is kept high through the use of a humidifier.

Compost/Soil

You also need to provide the right compost. Most ferns are forest or woodland plants and have tender, delicate roots adapted to the light forest soil, which is rich in leaf mould and decayed vegetable matter. The right compost must be free draining so that the roots never get waterlogged. A compost that contains peat or a fibrous peat substitute with plenty of sand is best. The compost should never be allowed to dry out, which may mean watering the plant a little every single day in a warm, dry atmosphere.

Although most ferns grow in moist shady places like forest floors, this does not mean that they need no light. Their normal situation in the wild is dappled light, and if the light level in the home is too low, you will see poor growth and yellowing fronds. Give your ferns a position near a window that gets morning or late afternoon sun, and keep the ferns away from strong sunlight, especially during the summer. Direct sunlight will make them lose their leaves or turn their fronds yellow.

You can keep your ferns in dim light as long as you give them regular breaks in bright light. They can be given artificial light, but this should be from a special gardening bulb or a fluorescent strip. Ordinary light bulbs generate too much heat.

Temperature

An individual fern’s place of origin and adaptability will determine how high or low temperature the fern needs. Most ferns don’t like cold. Those ferns from tropical regions truly appreciate 60-70 F (15-21 C.). Those from more temperate regions enjoy temperatures between 50-60 F. (10-16 C).

Fertilizer

Feed your ferns in the summertime every two to four weeks with a liquid fertilizer, but don’t mix it full strength because you can damage the root system. Just a few drops of fertilizer can be added to the water occasionally for misting. Don’t feed your ferns in the winter because they rest. In order to keep the air around your ferns moist, mist them often.

Repotting

You can repot your ferns in the springtime, but only if their roots are filling the pot. Otherwise, just scrape off the top layer of compost and replace it with fresh compost. Cut off any damaged fronds to encourage new growth.

When you repot your ferns, split them up and make two out of one. You can also grow new ferns from the powdery spores produced in little capsules. These capsules are visible as rows of rusty brown patches on the underside of the fronds. These will grow into a green film into which the fern will grow.

Indoor Fern Companions

Bromeliads are plants similar to the pineapple with a rosette of firm fleshy leaves. Some have a larger piece in the center or have plants with less form that wander without roots in the pot. The roots of a bromeliad are used simply for anchoring it to a support. They are not used for gathering nourishment. They make striking potted plants and also adapt well to hanging baskets.

There are also tillandsias. These grow well in pots and are great for hanging baskets because they have arching foliage and take their nourishment directly from their environment or air. They require very little water.

Keep in mind that bromeliads are tropical; they require warmer temperatures of 60-70 F. (15-21 C.) and some moisture. However, the tillandsias don’t require near as much moisture and you can actually grow them in shells, rocks and such.

Ferns, tillandsias and bromeliads are just as easy to grow as the palms, but be sure to pay attention to each of their needs.

Indoor Ferns

Ferns are an attractive addition to any home or office. Ferns are popular because of their graceful foliage and ability to grow in low light. Many different types of ferns can be grown indoors for interior decoration.

The Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata ‘Bostoniensis’) is commonly grown in hanging baskets.
Barbara H. Smith, ©2015 HGIC, Clemson Extension

Height/Spread

There are very small ferns no more than 6 inches tall that are best suited to growth and viewing in a terrarium. Some of the larger ferns may grow into a 5-foot ball when mature and grown in a hanging basket.

Ornamental Features

The appeal of ferns comes from their graceful foliage and growth habit. While the ferns we most commonly picture have finely cut leaves called fronds, there are many other foliage types. Holly ferns have fronds with broad segments that are leathery, shiny and toothed like holly leaves. Several other ferns have fronds that are not divided at all. Staghorn ferns foliage is deeply lobed and resembles moose antlers.

A few ferns are also grown for their unusual stems that creep along the soil surface. These rhizomes are covered with brown or tan hairs that make them look like animal feet. It is an oddly appealing look.

The Squirrel’s Foot Fern (Davallia trichomanoides) should be grown in a north facing window.
Barbara H. Smith, ©2015 HGIC, Clemson Extension

Culture

Ferns vary in their growing condition needs. Several commonly grown indoor ferns have a well-earned reputation for being finicky growers, but others are surprisingly easy. Ferns with tough, leathery foliage usually adapt better to typical household conditions than feathery, delicate types. The more delicate types of ferns will grow best where they can be given special care. A terrarium or a very humid area such as a bathroom will suit them well.

Most ferns prefer moderate, indirect light inside. Close to a north-facing window is ideal. Never put ferns directly in a south or west-facing window. Direct sunlight will damage the foliage.

The ideal temperature range for most ferns is between 60 and 70 °F during the day. They like to be kept about 10 °F cooler at night.

Bird’s Nest Ferns (Asplenium nidus) are easy to grow.
Millie Davenport, ©2015 HGIC, Clemson Extension

All ferns are moisture lovers, but the amount that they need varies among the many different types of ferns. Some ferns like to be kept almost wet while others should dry slightly between waterings. Be sure not to allow any of them to dry out completely. Do not allow water to stand in pots since this can lead to root damage.

Potting soil for ferns should be porous and allow excess water to drain quickly. Ferns grow best in an organic potting medium similar to soils in their natural habitats.

Humidity is usually too low in the home for fine, thin-leafed ferns. Double pot your plants to help provide extra moisture. Double pot by placing the main growing container inside a second container lined with moist sphagnum moss. You can also lightly mist ferns occasionally. The humidity level in houses is very low during winter and ferns will need extra attention.

Most ferns should be fertilized lightly once a month from April through September. Liquid houseplant fertilizers should be applied at about one-half the recommended rate. Ferns will leaf scorch when fertilized too heavily. Do not fertilize ferns during the winter. Do not feed new or repotted plants for six months.

A Kangaroo Paw Fern (Microsorum diversifolium) needs regular, even moisture all year to grow properly.
Barbara H. Smith, ©2015 HGIC, Clemson Extension

The best method of propagating most ferns is by division. Repot overcrowded plants in early spring, using a mixture of equal parts of a packaged houseplant potting mix and peat moss or leaf mold.

Fern fronds are sensitive to rough handling. Place ferns out of high-traffic areas to avoid damage.

Problems

In the home, plant diseases are very rarely a problem. Too much or too little water plus insects and mites are the main problems. Root rot usually results from a soil mix that does not drain quickly or overly frequent watering.

The most common insect problems are scale insects and mites. Pesticide sprays injure many ferns. Read the label of any control product carefully, test the spray on a small area or number of plants first, and observe for injury. Insects can often be removed by hand picking or by a brisk water spray outside.

Ferns may develop brown leaves or leaflets at low humidity. This is especially common on ferns with thin, delicate fronds, such as maidenhairs.

Fern Species & Cultivars

Common Name

Botanical Name

Size Growing Conditions Description
Maidenhair Fern

(Adiantum tenerum)

Southern Maidenhair Fern

(A. capillus-veneris)

6 to 20 inches tall Light of a north window is ideal. Day temperatures of 60 to 70 °F and night temperatures of 50 to 60 °F. High humidity of about 50 percent is needed. Keep the soil moist at all times. Maidenhairs are difficult to grow in most homes. Maidenhair ferns are graceful and delicate in appearance, with tiny leaflets cascading along black wirelike stems. The fan maidenhair has fan-shaped leaflets, which sometimes overlap.

The southern maidenhair fern has exceedingly delicate fronds.

Birds Nest Fern

(Asplenium nidus)

Grows to 18 inches tall Prefers the light of a north window. Keep the soil moist. Ideal temperatures are from 55 to 70 F. Birds nest ferns are easy to grow. Broad, soft green, undivided fronds are arranged in a vase shape.

‘Antiquorum’ has ruffled edged fronds.

Holly Fern

(Cyrtomium falcatum)

Grows up to 24 inches tall. This is an easy, adaptable fern. It tolerates dry air, drafts and low light levels. Prefers a north window with night temperatures of 50 to 55 °F and day temperatures of 68 to 72 °. It can tolerate temperatures as low as 35 F. Leathery, dark green fronds are very glossy and toothed along the edge like holly leaves. Can also be grown outside on the coast.
Squirrel’s Foot Fern

(Davallia trichomanoides)

12 to 18 inches tall North facing window. Night temperatures of 50 to 65 °F and day temperatures of 65 to 85 °F. Keep the growing medium barely moist at all times. Do not bury the creeping rhizomes. Creeping rhizomes that are soft and furry extend over the edge of the container. These ferns are well-suited to hanging baskets. The dark green fronds are feathery.
Australian Tree Fern

(Dicksonia antartica)

Could grow to 45 feet tall if space was available Filtered bright light, 65 °F during the day, high humidity, needs to be constantly moist. Challenging to grow well. The trunk is covered with brown fibrous roots. The foliage is huge, very finely divided and light green. It takes many years to develop a trunk.
Climbing Fern

(Lygodium japonicum)

Limited only by your room size, can grow 40 feet tall Bright light is best for this fern. Keep it slightly moist at all times. May go dormant in late winter. Trim off the old fronds when you see new fiddleheads appear. The unusual climbing habit is the reason most people grow this fern. It can be grown in a hanging basket or trained on a trellis. The delicate fronds have attractive scalloped edges.
Kangaroo Paw Fern

(Microsorum diversifolium)

1 foot tall, 3-4 feet wide Grow in a bright north facing window. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Night temperatures of 50-55° and day temperatures of 68-72°. Originates in Australia dark green leathery fronds with creeping rhizomes. Easy to grow in pots or hanging baskets.
Boston Fern and Sword Fern

(Nephrolepis exaltata)

10 to 12 inches up to 3 feet or more, depending on cultivar Bright indirect or filtered sunlight. Night temperatures of 50 to 55 °F and day temperatures of 68 to 72 °F. Keep the soil barely moist at all times. Needs high humidity to thrive. Watch for spider mites, scale insects and mealybugs. ‘Bostoniensis’ has arching fronds up to 3 feet long that cascade on all sides.

‘Compacta’ has 15- to 18-inch fronds.

‘Childsii’ grows to 10 to 12 inches with overlapping curling leaflets.

‘Fluffy Ruffles’ has stiff, densely leafed upright fronds.

‘Verona’ has lacy drooping fronds.

‘Fluffy Duffy’ is very fringed and compact.

Button Fern

(Pellea rotundifolia)

12-18 inches tall Give some sun in the winter but bright indirect or filtered light the rest of the year. Keep moist but not wet. Small, leathery, round leaflets are arranged evenly along arching slender stems.
Hart’s Tongue Fern

(Phyllitis scolopendrium)

6-12 inches long Bright indirect light. Prefers a cool 40 to 60 °F temperature range. Keep evenly moist throughout the year with less frequent waterings in winter. Straight or curved strap-shaped leathery leaves.

‘Crispum’ has deeply frilled edges.

Staghorn Fern

(Platycerium bifurcatum)

3 feet or more in length and width Bright indirect or filtered sunlight. Night temperatures of 50 to 55 °F and day temperatures of 68 to 72 °F. Keep the material on which the plant grows moist at all times. Staghorns need very high humidity that is hard to achieve in most houses. The plant has two kinds of fronds. Large gray green antler-shaped fronds hang down. At the base of the plant are rounded tan fronds that look like inverted bowls. These are used to tie the plant to its support. Staghorns grow on the bark of trees or other supports rather than in soil.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern

(Polypodium aureum)

2 or more feet long Bright indirect or filtered sunlight. Night temperatures of 50 to 55 °F and day temperatures of 68 to 72 °F. Keep the soil barely moist. Do not bury the creeping rhizomes. Leathery fronds rise above thick, furry creeping stems called rhizomes.

‘Mandaianum’ has bluish-green fronds with twisted and toothed edges.

Cretan Brake Fern

(Pteris cretica)

6 to 12 inches Light from a north-facing window is ideal.

Night temperatures of 50 to 55 ° and day temperatures of 6 to 72 °F. Keep the soil barely moist. Brake ferns are easy-to-grow.

‘Albo-lineata’ is a low-growing type with a cream stripe in the center of each leaflet.

‘Childsii’ has light green frilled leaflets.

‘Wilsonii’ is a bright green type with finely divided frond tips.

Sword Brake Fern

(Pteris ensiformis)

6 to 12 inches North-facing window light is ideal.

Night temperatures of 50 to 55 °F and day temperatures of 68 to 72°. Keep the soil barely moist. Brake ferns are easy-to-grow.

‘Victoriae’ has silvery white fronds edged in dark green.
Crested Spider Brake Fern

(Pteris multifida)

6 to 12 inches North-facing window light is ideal.

Night temperatures of 50 to 55 °F and day temperatures of 68 to 72 °F. Keep the soil barely moist. Brake ferns are easy-to-grow.

‘Cristata’ has dense dark green fronds with long slender leaflets that end in frilly crests.

We spoke to professional landscaper Matt Leacy, co-founder and director of Landart Landscapes, to get his recommendations for low light indoor plants.

1. Devil’s Ivy (Pothos Epipremnum)

“These low light indoor plants are really easy to care for as they thrive with little attention and they can propagate easily,” says Matt.

How to care for them:

Devil’s ivy will thrive in any potting mix and grows well in partial to full shade. Indoors, it will grow best if you situate it somewhere that gets a bit of filtered sunlight, or bright artificial light. This plant is drought resistant, so water when the top two inches of soil are dry, roughly once a week then once every two weeks in winter.

2. Lady Palm (Raphis)

“This low light indoor plant only requires a drink once a week,” says Matt. “This palm is really slow growing, so it’s worth buying an advanced specimen to maximise impact.

How to care for it:

This variety of low light indoor plant will grow in almost any well-drained soil, and are cold tolerant. Give it a drink when the top inch of soil is dry. This low light indoor plant prefers to be positioned away from full sun, but will grow well in a position that gets light.

3. Cast Iron plant (Aspidistra)

“As the common name ‘Cast Iron Plant’ suggests, this plant is close to indestructible,” says Matt.

How to care for it:

This low light indoor plant can thrive in ht and dry summers but isn’t put off by the cold, either. Water it when the soil is dry and don’t worry if it doesn’t get too much sun.

4. Zanzibar Gem (Zamioculcus zamiofolia)

“Give this plant a small drink once a fortnight. The key with the Zanzibar Gem is not to over-water it,” says Matt.

How to care for it:

This low light indoor plant prefers indirect light, and the amount of water it needs depends on the amount of light it gets. Lots of sun means lots of water, less sun means less water. However, the zanzibar gem will prefer a low light interior.

5. Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica ‘rubra’)

“The rubber plant has beautiful dark foliage with a pink new growth. It can add some drama, fill in a corner or breaking up a white or dark wall.”

How to care for it:

This plant light a bright room but no direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist, but never let it stay wet or get bone dry. Water once a week to once a fortnight, depending on the season.

6. Peace Lily (Spathyphylum)

“The peace lily is great for people that don’t want to monitor watering all the time,” says Matt. “The leaves will droop when watering is required. Depending on the space, you can get away with watering once a fortnight.”

How to care for it:

Water this low light indoor plant when the top inch and a bit of soil is dry. Or we the leave start to droop. If the foliage is drooping, give it a good soak and wait for the soil to dry out before you water it again. While this plant can endure bright room, it does not enjoy direct sunlight, and will thrive in the shade. Give it a regular mist in summer. The peace lily does not like the cold.

7. Silver Snakeplant (Sansevieria ‘Moonshine’)

“This is a very hardy low light indoor plant that only needs watering once every three to four weeks,” says Matt.

How to care for it:

This low light indoor plant will grow in any position out of direct sunlight, doesn’t like to be overwatered and will thrive in any environment from offices to homes.

8. Philodendrons

“For watering, it’s good to do the finger test with this low light indoor plant. Put your finger in the soil and if it feels dry, give the plant some water. This plant prefers to be kept moist, but be sure not to over-water it.”

How to care for it:

This plant prefers to avoid direct sunlight but likes a bright room. It grows year round and only needs watering when the soil is dry. Always choose a pot twice the size of the plant. Give it a regular misting during dry, hot summers.

9. Mistletoe cacti (Riphsalis)

“The riphsalis is one of the most interesting hanging plants around and very hardy,” says Matt. “I water mine once a week and it thrives in a position with no direct light.”

How to care for it:

This low light plant prefers well-drained soil and a bit of humidity, so give it a mist now and again. Water it in summer, but increase the time between drinks during winter. Keep it away from direct sunlight, as it enjoy moderate light.

10. Maidenhair fern (Adiantum)

“This plant brings such a beautiful light, brightness to any space,” says matt. “It is very delicate in appearance and should be treated that way – with care. Keep it in a warm position.”

How to care for it:

This plant doesn’t mind a bit of filtered light but dislikes direct sunlight and high temperatures. Water it regularly to keep the soil always moist, but never let it get wet. Make sure the soil is well-drained and rich in organic matter.

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We all love ferns, they are a classic houseplant. Ferns come in all kinds of sizes, textures and colors. Yet as far as plants go, they can be fussy. Laura from Garden Answer has the scoop.

If your fern is happy and healthy, great job! You can probably skip some of the topics toward the end.

Now let’s take a look at your fern and double check it is living its best life.

Here are 10 things to keep in mind as you tend to your fern:

Light Exposure

Contrary to popular belief, ferns need quite a bit of light. Though, they don’t like to be in direct sunlight as their foliage will change to a lighter yellow color or burn. Keep them near a place that receives plenty of sunshine throughout the day.

Only few varieties can handle shade and moisture like most people think. Check your plant tag for the most accurate information for your fern.

Temperature

Ferns like their surroundings to be similar to what we like between 65 and 75°F, matching the temperatures in our home. They don’t like it too drafty so keep them away from doors that lead outside and away from air vents.

Humidity

This is the most important thing to be aware of for keeping your fern healthy, especially if you live in a dry climate. Placing your fern in a bathroom or kitchen near the water source can help, since they typically get more moisture in there naturally.

For a more decorative option, place pebbles in tray with some water and place your fern on top. The moisture will carry up to the foliage as it evaporates. Add water to the tray as needed.

Soil Type

Use Espoma’s Organic Potting Mix for your ferns. Organic potting mixes have the right kind of drainage, and will hold just enough water that is needed without drowning your fern.

Repotting

Typically, ferns need to be repotted every two years. Check its roots once a year. If the roots are starting to circle around the container, it is time to repot. If there is still soil around the edge of it, it should be fine for another year.

When it is time to repot your fern, only go up one size for your container. Be sure there is a drainage hole at the bottom of your container. Place a small layer of Espoma’s Organic Potting Mix in the bottom and fill around the sides as needed.

Watering

Ferns like to be consistently damp, but not wet and soggy like many people think. Each fern and home is a bit different, especially this time of year. Water your fern and keep an eye on it. If the soil at the top feels dry, water it again.

Fertilizing

Ferns like to be fed about once a month during their growing season. Each zone and climate will have a different growing season, which you can ask your local garden center about. Feed your fern with Espoma’s Organic’s Indoor! liquid plant food. Check the label for instructions on how to use.

Grooming

All houseplants should be groomed about once a month. Remove any foliage that looks damaged, unhealthy or is turning brown or yellow. Discard any leaves or debris that is on top of the soil to keep insects and disease at bay.

Insects

The most common insects to watch out for are mealybugs, aphids, fungus mites, white fly and spider mites for just about any houseplant. If you are unsure of the insect you are dealing with, take a picture and take it to your local garden center. They will be able to offer suggestions on how to get rid of it.

Toxicity

Ferns are non-toxic, but it is still a smart idea to keep your pets and kids away from eating or playing with a fern. That might just cause a tummy ache or a mess in your home!

Drop any other questions below in the comments and we will help you out the best we can!

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