Caring for a peacock

5 Essential Tips for Keeping Peacocks as Pets

Peafowl require at least 25 square meters (or 80 square feet) per bird. This space is important in order to prevent disease, as well as fighting among the birds. Pens should be at least 2.5 meters (7 feet 10 inches) in height so that peafowl can fly and fan their tails. If you keep a male peacock, the pen should be large enough for him to display his long tail feathers without injury.

Another important reason for having the right amount of space: Peafowl have a loud, shrill cry that can aggravate neighbors, especially during mating season. You will want to make sure you have enough room that your neighbors can’t hear your peafowl. Peafowl are obviously best kept in rural areas.

2. Keep them warm.

Adult peafowl are pretty hardy creatures but it is still important to do what you can to help your peafowl stay comfortable, especially since all types of peafowl originated in areas with warmer climates. This is particularly important if your peafowl was bred in a tropical climate.

Wooden roosts are the best way to shield them from the cold. If you are raising peacock chicks from peafowl eggs, be sure to keep them in a heated area for four to six weeks after the baby peafowl start to hatch. You should keep the temperature over 95º F and lower it by about 5º F every week.

3. Keep them safe.

Predators like coyotes, dogs, and foxes are the main concern for peafowl owners, especially those that are free-range. Tree houses are the best way to protect them from predators, and peafowl love to roost up high.

Wherever you keep your peafowl, make sure it is dry and warm, as muddy or wet conditions can cause disease or tail feather breakage. A large pen surrounded with chicken wire, with a wooden shelter or hen house with a nesting area, complete with a warming light, is a good example for a pet peacock habitat.

4. Feed them right.

Peafowl should have access to fresh water and be fed two handfuls of mixed grain every day. This grain can be purchased at most feed stores, and most game bird feed, like turkey, chicken, or pheasant feed, is also fine for half to two thirds of their diet.

About 5-10% of the peafowl’s complete diet should consist of peanuts or sunflower seeds, supplemented with green vegetables such as cabbage or kale. You can feed bread or fruit as an occasional treat, but never give your peafowl bones, as they may choke. Another option for a higher protein diet would be to include some cat or plant-based dog food.

Peafowl like to wander, so if your peafowl are free range, it is extra important to feed them well so they want to return at night and don’t go seeking food elsewhere.

Peafowl 101: Basic care, genetics, and answers.

I will edit and add information as I find it (or pm sent it as several people have already done), but here is the base!
A collection of general and care information for your peafowl. Please leave replies with additional information and I will integrate it to the first post.
Common terms and their meanings:
Peafowl- generic term for the species, without gender. Can be plural or singular.
Peacock- Male peafowl
Peahen- Female peafowl
Peachick- Young peafowl
Train- The group of long feathers peacocks show off during courting displays. These are not actually tail feathers. They are the coverts above the tail, greatly elongated.
Party- Term for a group of peafowl
Bevy- Term for a family of peafowl
General Information – The stuff I don’t have a better category for!
Peafowl have an average lifespan of 20 years. The Indian peafowl originated in the Indian subcontinent while the Green peafowl are native to Asian countries from Burma to Java and prefer warmer climates. Peafowl are very loud creatures for several months of the year.
A BYC thread on how to clean feathers for sale.
The gender of your peafowl can be determined in several ways. Obviously adult males (2+ years old) will grow that long, distinctive train of feathers. Adult females will be drab in comparison and will not sport the display train.
Young peafowl can typically be sexed at around 4-5 weeks by their plumage, except a few. Whites, for example, will all have the exact same plumage until the males begin to grow their trains. In other colors, you will see barring on the shoulder/saddle feathers (excepting blackshoulders) and the males will grow distinctive burnt-orange primaries.
If you want the gender of a peafowl younger than 4 weeks, DNA sexing can be done by a vet. Of course this can be done at any age if you want to be sure and are not certain about the feather patterns. Unlike chickens, peafowl cannot be vent sexed because their organs are too far inside the body.
On very rare occasions, one might encounter a ‘unisex’ peafowl.
If you would like to hear what peafowl sound like, here are a few links to videos.
Male calling
Female chattering (And no, I have no idea why she makes this noise).
If you are considering getting peafowl, bear in mind that they are VERY loud birds- the male’s call can be heard up to 5 miles away, and they will call all summer.
There are a few basic sounds you will hear your peafowl make, starting from the minute they hatch until they are full grown.
As chicks they will make noise -constantly-. Mostly they make a high-pitched “pi-wheep” noise, punctuated with plenty of screaming. If you leave them alone, they will make their ‘lost’ noise, a “WHIIIIII WHIIIII WHIIIII” cry that only gets louder in volume the longer you are gone. When they are upset as a chick, they will scream.
As juveniles, their voices get a little deeper. Their pi-wheep deepens and will eventually fade. Mine make a low “Heww” noise of concern and interest instead. When they are upset or do not like something (like you picking them up, for instance), they make a fast series of “pik pik pik pik” noises. Mine will also sometimes hiss at me instead if they are not particularly upset.
As yearlings, they will lose the pi-wheep noise and begin making, for lack of a better term, a honking noise (like the one in the second video). They may also make the low, concerned “heww” noise, and continue to use the “pik pik pik” when they are upset. Yearlings may also start to make more ‘adult’ calls (somewhere between the noise in the first video and the second).
By maturity, the boys will begin to make their loud wailing call (which sounds remarkably like a woman screaming “help me” so make sure your neighbors know you have peafowl and what their call sounds like so the cops don’t show up!). They will continue with the same upset noise and do some honking.
There are two ways to describe how your peafowl looks- Color and Pattern. These are two very different descriptions. The best way to describe the difference is that pattern is the way the color is displayed and distributed. Several patterns can be present in a bird, but only one color. There are only 2 species of peafowl: The Indian peafowl (Pavo Cristatus) and the green peafowl (Pavo Muticus). All others are subspecies of the greens or color mutations of the Indian peafowl.
For anyone interested, their ranking in the animal kingdom would be: Animalia Chordata Aves Galliformes Phasianidae Pavo (and then either Cristatus or Muticus). They belong to the same family as pheasants, turkeys, grouse, and partridge.
For more detailed information about genetics and colors/patterns, there is a link to Peafowl 201 at the bottom of this post; feel free to hop over there after reading through this!
Blue, Cameo, White, Charcoal, Purple, Bronze, Peach, Opal, Midnight, Jade, Taupe, Sonja’s Violeta
The above are or are color mutations of the Indian peafowl.
Green colored peafowl belong to the muticus species (see below), or are hybrids between muticus and the India blues.
Patterns apply only to peafowl descended from the India blue. Patterns can apply to some spaldings (ie, emerald pied spalding) despite their Green blood because they also have India blue blood.
Barred wing- Wings are brown/tan and black ‘striped’.
Solid wing (also known as “Black Shoulder” and abbreviated as BS)- Where the barring is on a barred wing bird will be the solid color of the rest of the bird. In an India Blue, it will display black/blue/green but can be other colors for other color birds.
Pied- White patches on body (result of leucism genes).
White eye- The black eye of the tail feathers will be white (or have white spots). Some birds can be white-eye without displaying white eyes.
Silver pied- Body looks white with patches of color.
All of these find their doubles in being crossed with green (I think muticus?) to create ‘spalding’ birds… in other words, impure muticus birds also called hybrids (although these hybrids are unlike most hybrids, and are fertile). The term ’emerald’ refers to a spalding that has 75%+ green blood from any muticus subspecies.
Note: The term ’emerald’ is no longer used by the UPA, as it was basically being mis-used by sellers. Sellers were using the term ’emerald’ to refer to birds with a large portion of green displayed in their phenotype, but by genotype the birds were less than 75% green blooded. Beware when purchasing from sellers using the term ’emerald’ without stating the blood percentage, as some may be truthful and some may not. As well, you cannot always blame the seller, as they may simply be misinformed as opposed to maliciously deceptive.
The greens are the second species of peafowl. There are three sub-species:
Muticus-Muticus (Java)
Muticus-Imperator (Indo-Chinese)
Muticus-Specifier (Burmese)
So far no mutations have shown up in the green species, the mutations are mutations in the india blue genes.
Please note: There is one more species of peafowl, called the Congo Peafowl but these are endangered and are not commercially available, nor is much known about them at this time.

Brad Legg’s Basic Genetics
Peafowl Varieties Database – A directory of peafowl colors and patterns with GREAT information on the particulars of each mutation.
UPA approved Varieties of Peafowl
Where to obtain peafowl:
Of course there are many sources through which to obtain your pea, anything from hatching your own to buying adult birds. Which is best? Well, that depends entirely upon what you are looking for in your bird. Before buying you must always consider your own situation and ability to handle peafowl first. It may turn out after some research that you just don’t have the ability to meet their needs and perhaps a different bird would suit you. It may also be that you find you have a lot more work ahead of you than you thought.
Buying hatching eggs is always risky business. First you have to locate a reliable breeder with eggs for sale. Second, they are expensive and they will most likely be subjected to the rigors of shipping and will definitely have to survive your incubator afterwards… and anyone who has incubated an egg in the past will tell you that sometimes, even if you do EVERYTHING right, your hatch still goes poorly. Following the hatch, you have a very fragile life in your hands that will require a lot of time to care for. You also have to have some idea of how peafowl genetics work, because not all colors/patterns breed true (ie, pure India blue x India blue will create 100% India blue, but silver pied x silver pied will produce silver pied, white, and dark pied).
On the bright side of buying eggs, you have an excellent opportunity to craft an incredibly friendly bird. If you are looking for just a pet and you are not particularly attached to a color or pattern, the eggs can be relatively cheap to find (some people on eBay sell ‘mixed pen’ eggs for around $5 an egg). When the chick hatches, you have the opportunity to imprint the chick to you. This is NOT advisable unless you have a LOT of time to devote to that chick.
Incubation: Peafowl eggs have an average incubation time of 28-30 days. They need 99.5 degrees and 50-60% humidity through the hatch, with 75% humidity at hatch. Lockdown begins at day 25. It is advised that you incubate peafowl eggs on their sides (horizontally instead of upright on a turner) and turn by hand 3+ times a day (always turn an odd number of times so the egg doesn’t sit on the same side for 2 nights in a row).
Your best bet for easily finding hatching eggs is between March and August on eBay, eggbid, or contacting known breeders to try to work out a deal. I have seen peafowl eggs for sale with prices anywhere between $5 and $25 apiece, depending on the breed.

BYC’s Buy/Sell/Trade forum for ‘other’ poultry hatching eggs
The UPA’s breeder directory – Breeders listed here may or may not be willing to sell eggs. You would have to ask individually.
Chicks are probably your best bet if you want a fairly friendly peafowl but don’t want to go through the trouble of hatching the eggs. They are available in many places and some will even ship to you (though it’s best to actually visit the place if possible to pick up the chicks, so that you can see the location and the parent birds). Chicks can be hard to care for and the mortality rate before the age of 3-4 months is fairly high due to many factors. If you are going to buy chicks, be ready to worm them and make sure that they can be kept with proper heating, food, and medications.
On the bright side of chicks, you have a chance to raise a young bird and handle it from a young age, which will most likely result in a friendlier bird. You also have control over its early environment without having to own an incubator. If bought at a safer age of 3-4 months, you can usually tell gender and still get a fairly friendly bird, while skipping the worst period for mortality.
The price of chicks varies on your location and the color of the chick. Around me, India blue chicks (2 weeks or younger) sell for about $5-10 while in other areas they are seen going for $40. A decent average price is between $20 and $35 for more common colors, but in some areas the more standard IB chicks can go as low as $5, depending largely on where you live.

BYC’s B/S/T forum for ‘other’ poultry chicks
The UPA’s breeder directory
Legg’s Peafowl Farm – Day old peachicks for sale in lots of 8.
If you are not particularly in need of a ‘pet’ type disposition for your birds or you are looking for rare colors, adult birds are often the way to go. These can be VERY expensive ($200 a pair is not uncommon and newer colors like Taupe can sell for upwards if $2,000 a pair) but if you want a specific color and want to be sure you have males or females, this is the best way. You also skip the early days where their mortality is high and you won’t have to make a brooder or have the incubator (unless you want to breed them).
Adult birds are not usually shipped (some breeders will, some will not) and it can be difficult to find the colors you want nearby. The hens are typically more expensive than the cocks, and often times breeders will not sell hens or will not have many for sale. If you find someone that can ship, know that the shipping must be done in special boxes, will be very expensive, and is very hard on the birds. They will need special care upon arrival.
Adult birds also vary greatly in price depending on where you live and what color you want. A yearling male India blue around me sells for between $20 and $60, and in other places I’ve seen them going for $75-100. Pied males (2+ years) here sell for around $100-125. A ‘common’ color male (like the india blue) will typically run between $75 and $125 (if you aren’t having it shipped) after 1 year of age. As stated above, rare colors will only increase the price.

BYC’s B/S/T forum for ‘other’ poultry adults.
The UPA’s breeder directory
Amy’s Peacock Paradise for sale
Legg’s Peafowl Farm – Adult peafowl of excellent heritage
There are numerous ways to identify and keep track of your peafowl with the aid of identifying markers. You can mark on the wings or the legs or the toes and some markers require the aid of special tools to apply.
Wing Bands: Wing bands are applied through the membrane of the wing and some kinds require an application tool. They typically come with a 6 digit number and can be bought in numerical order (ie, 1-100) or non-consecutive but not repetitive (ie, 100 numbers but may not be in order). I believe custom made wing bands can have letters for putting your name, or specific numbers.
Leg Bands (plastic): Round, thick plastic bands that typically do not require an applicator. These should sport a numerical identification. Typically brittle.
Leg Bands (metal): The same as the plastic, but more enduring and I believe they require an applicator.
Leg Bands (Spiral plastic): These are thin, spiral pieces of plastic in an array of colors. They do not sport identification numbers, but instead can be used in combinations to denote birds. There’s every color of the rainbow plus black and white, and two legs to put them on. Colors and positions (both on the leg and in relation to other spiral bands on the leg if you put more than one) can be used to denote a lot of information without having to look at a log. The downside is that these are much less durable than leg bands and as they have no identifying number if one is removed it’s a pain to determine where it came from or what is missing from which bird.
Toe Punching: I don’t know that this is used very often. A small hole is punched in the webbing between the toes.
NPIP (National Poultry Improvement Plan): Peafowl are one of the breeds that should be NPIP certified. This is not really ‘identification’ of individual birds, but rather of your flock. In most instances, NPIP certification is cheap to obtain. It will certify your flock is free of pollarum and typhoid, which then allows you to sell hatching eggs and birds. You will have an ID number that people will be able to look at later.

Leg Band Size Chart
Cutler Supply – Has all the above identification methods for order
Chicks should be housed in a brooder with temps around 101 degrees for the first week dropping 5 degrees every week following (less or more depending on how their feathers are coming in and whether or not they are shivering or huddling, of course). Many will recommend wire-bottom brooders because a lot of disease that will easily kill peachicks is found in the soil. I kept my own indoors in a clean, new brooder with pine shavings and have not had a problem. The most important thing to remember is to keep them off natural ground and DO NOT use anything slippery for bedding- newspaper, bare plastic or metal, things like that. Improper footing can lead to spraddle-leg. The brooder should be free of drafts and kept clean. Chicks can be moved to normal pens around 3 months of age (to be safe). By this time they will have full feathers and be better able to cope with any medical problems that may arrive.
You may want to raise chicks with their parents (or with surrogate parents if you have other fowl and are looking to buy eggs for them to hatch). Many people raise peachicks via broody and a real mom, but you should be aware that the mortality rate per this method is higher than chicks raised in a brooder- significantly higher, around 50% for mama to raise them but closer to 10-20% for brooders. Your chicks raised by mom will be exposed to elements and diseases in the soil (and some diseases can be present whether or not you’ve personally had fowl on your land EVER). There’s a higher chance that predators may find their way in or that the chicks may encounter death due to something in their environment (getting their head stuck in the fencing, stepped on by other peafowl, mom goes nuts and pecks its face off… things like that).
Peas which are old enough that they do not need the heat lamp can be moved to a larger space. Many people have small versions of adult pens for the young peafowl, until they have gotten the hang of perching and surviving the night times. These sorts of pens also serve as a way for peafowl to see more of their surroundings and get used to where ‘home’ is supposed to be- this won’t stop 100% of them from leaving if you let yours free range but it may help. At 3-4 months, they can have access to real ground, but should be wormed after introduction as a precaution.
Adults can either be kept in pens (usually for breeding or if you really don’t want to find out if your pea will stay or leave if you let it free range) or be allowed to free range. Whether or not they free range, they should have access to an indoor area where heat can be provided (especially in winter). They can have free access to ground by now. Chicken wire and wooden enclosures seems fairly typical for them. Enclosures should not be smaller than 10x20x6ft high, and it should definitely have a top. Roosts/perches should be provided and it is best for these to have flat surfaces. In the winter, a round roost will leave their toes exposed overnight and can lead to frostbite. If you are allowing a male to free range, it is a good idea to keep a female penned to increase the chance that he will return.
Please note: If you are housing a muticus species of peafowl, they are not well-adapted to cold weather so unless you live someplace very warm, they should have access to an indoors, heated area.

Amy’s Peacock Paradise – A page with links to additional care and housing information.
Peafowl are omnivorous, which means they will eat any plant matter they can stuff in their beak as well as bugs, amphibians, and anything else alive that they can fit into their beaks. Food should be provided to your peas in such a way that they can’t fling very much of it around. They do not eat as much as you think they do, but they do love to fling it everywhere. A good food stand will be off of the floor and stable so they cannot knock it over. Food should be provided fresh and any that smells off or is moldy should be thrown away to prevent occurrences of Coccidiosis.
Peachicks should be fed medicated game starter (if you can find it) or medicated chick starter mixed with gamebird starter. Make sure to get the starter with amprolium for the prevention of Cocci and I believe Purina offers starter with AND without and both are considered medicated due to the medication included for other problems. Starter should have 20-24% protein, which is higher than chickens (For example, my chick starter has 18% protein, my game bird starter has 24%… I mix the two which should land them somewhere in the middle). Substituting their starter with other foods can be harmful. They do not need grit if they are only eating the correct starters. If you feed them nearly anything else (which you shouldn’t do for a couple weeks at least) then they will probably need some grit sprinkled on their crumbles. Cleaned/baked sand works well for this.
Acceptable ‘treats’ for chicks (that can be fed without grit) include yogurt, egg yolks or whites, and non-instant oatmeal. The instant sort has too much salt and sugar and is hard to digest.
Adult birds can be fed gamebird maintenance crumbles/pellets. You can feed them normal ‘chicken’ food but it will not have sufficient protein. We made up for this in the past by feeding them kitten hard food as a supplement/treat. If they are penned without access to dirt or pebbles, they may need supplemental grit.
Treats for adult birds can be: hardboiled eggs, melons (watermelon, cantaloupe, etc), squashes, tomatoes, greens (spinach, lettuce, etc), beans, crickets, wet cat food, pasta, rice, raspberries, strawberries, blueberries (etc), peas (har har, feeding peas to peas), cucumbers, bread (may want to moisten), peanuts, raisins, cooked meats (never raw or partially raw), grapes, corn… well, you get the picture.
What NOT to feed to peas: never feed raw meats. Also be wary of what bugs you give your birds, as some can be hosts for other parasites/worms (and yes they will eat these insects anyway, which is why you worm your birds at least twice a year by a different wormer each time). Here are some of the common hosts/parasites
Worm – Hosts
Cecal worms – Beetles, grasshoppers
Capillary – Earthworms
Gapeworm – Earthworms, slugs, snails
Tapeworm – Ants, beetles, earthworms, slugs, snails, termites
Flukes – Dragonflies, mayflies
A BYC Thread about Peafowl Nutrition.
Still compiling a list, feel free to add to this.
Water should be provided so that they have access at any given time. A lot of feed stores sell waterers but you can also make cheap ones. I have seen waterers made from 5 gallon buckets with screw tops, with holes cut in the sides to allow access. The biggest thing about providing a waterer is to keep it off the ground and make sure they can’t 1) get into it and 2) tip it over. It should be provided fresh every day.
The breeding season begins around March (when the males grow in their new trains) and ends around August (when the males drop their trains). Hens may begin laying before they allow the males to breed them, and many will lay after the male has dropped his train. After the male has dropped his train, though, expect a drop in egg fertility as hi fertility will drop or (though she is still laying) the hen may not be allowing him to mate. Sperm may (but will not always) remain viable inside of the hen for 3-4 weeks after a mating occurs.
A breeding pen can be set up for specific pairs (or parties, with a male and several females) if you are looking to breed a certain male to certain females. These pens should be similar to their normal pens, with places for the females to lay. It is recommended to have at least 400 square feet for a trio, with 6.5 foot tall roof. Provide perches high enough that the male can keep his train off the ground and clean, so as to win the ladies’ favors with his beauty. A full mature peacock in his prime can breed up to five females, but egg fertility should be monitored.
Females will lay one egg about every 2 days, and can collect a clutch of 3-12 eggs. Twelve is a high number, though, and clutches are usually closer to 4-6. However, if you remove the eggs as she lays them, she will continue to lay through the breeding season. They do not use enclosed nesting boxes as far as I’m aware.
Be aware when breeding that not all colors/patterns will breed true (like silver pied to silver pied will not produce 100% silver pied). Others will breed true (ie: India blue to India blue will produce 100% India blue… providing none of the blues are split to another color). Some colors, like cameo, are sex linked. This means that one gender will not not display the colors (but will carry the color). Some birds can be ‘split’, which means they are carrying genes for a color they are not displaying… for instance, a blue split white bird will look blue but be able to produce white chicks if bred to white.
Diseases and medications:
I was going to write up a whole thing on diseases and medications… but I found a great link that has all of them listed.
Some of the standard medications are as follows:
Tylan 200 (NOT 50) – Used typically for respiratory infections/problems
Ivermectin – Wormer
Duramycin – Antibiotic
Fenbendazole – Wormer (found in safe guard for goats)
Wazine – Wormer (for roundworms only)
Meloxicam (Metacam) – Anti-inflammatory/Pain medication (Non-steroidal, most steroidal anti-inflammatory medications are only given in the event of emergency, as in cases where birds have gone into shock)
Ammoxicillan – Anti-biotic
Baytril – Strong Anti-biotic
Many medications can be obtained through your vet if you know the name of the medication. As many vets do not cover birds (or have zero knowledge of farm birds, especially peafowl), it’s possible that if you go in knowing what you want, they can write you a prescription. They’ll probably want to see your bird. Peafowl are considered “exotics” at my vet, and you may be able to find a vet that will take them if they take other exotics. Most vets that take exotics will jump at a chance for something unusual.
Wounds vary in nature and cause, but if a wound is caused by trauma (as opposed to disease), then you have to make an assessment of whether or not the bird needs a vet. If the wound is small or simple enough it can be taken care of at home. If it involves uncontrolled bleeding or broken bones, probably you should go see a vet. It’s important to separate injured birds from the healthy ones so that they can rest without stress and in a clean place so they don’t get anything in the wound which will cause it to get worse (like dirt and bacteria).
A link to the history of peafowl in captivity:
A link to the peafowl that appear throughout history:

Legg’s Peafowl – This has got a lot of peafowl images and information. Brad Legg has got nearly all the available colors, and a lot of information on peafowl genetics and breeding.
United Peafowl Association – Standards and pictures and information. Official peafowl site!
Wikipedia’s entry on peafowl
Conner Hills Peafowl – A lot of good information on this site, including a link to record keeping.
If there is information I have missed or gotten wrong, please leave a reply and I will update/amend the first post!
If there are useful links I have missed (and I have), please post them and I’ll add them in too.
Also, please ask questions and I will do my best to locate answers to add here!
Hope this helps someone!
Next Lessons:
Peafowl 102 – Advanced Housing and Accessories
Peafowl 103: Illness, Injury, Medication, and Care (in progress still)
Peafowl 201: Further Genetics- Colors, Patterns, and More

Peafowl Care

Peafowl are beautiful majestic looking birds. They are great fliers and will alert you of intruders.

Peafowl Ages: Peachicks are shipped at 1day-2 weeks of age; Peafowl with 2015 or 2016 dates were born the spring of the listed year; Adults are typically 3-4 years in age unless otherwise listed.

Shopping List:
Brooder Supplies: Waterer, feeder, heat lamp reflector, heat bulb, pine shavings, paper towels, electrolytes and vitamins, thermometer, gro-gel, draft-free enclosure, coop or other safe housing, gamebird feed, and grit. We offer the chick starter kit which includes everything you need to get started.

Suggested Reading

  • Let’s Get Started Raising Peafowl

At the Post Office: Promptly pick up your package and get peachicks into the prepared brooder or release adult peafowl into a flight pen. If you ordered males with a tail, you will need to remove the tape, which is overlapped in about four places. Since the birds are shipped in a 3-foot box, their tales need to be taped to prevent them from becoming injured.

Live Guarantee: We guarantee that properly cared for birds will be alive and well for 48 hours after they arrive at your post office. Please see our full policy

Brooder Requirements: One square foot per chick is recommended to start. The brooder must be sterile and draft-free and needs to be big enough so that the birds can move away from the heat source if needed. Peachicks are good flyers even after just a few weeks, so be sure to have a secure cover available for your brooder. Peachicks are fragile; proper care, temperature, and a draft free environment is crucial for their survival.

Temperature: A thermometer is a baby peachick’s best friend. Start your chicks off at 99 degrees for the first three hours. Then, keep them at 95 degrees for the first week. Reduce the temperature by 5 degrees each week until they are fully feathered out, typically at 6 weeks and 70 degrees. Peachicks are very sensitive, so be sure the temperature is always stable.

– Java Green Peafowl must be kept above freezing. They need to be provided with a shelter and artificial heat source during the winter months.

Water: When placing your chicks in the brooder, immediately dip their beaks in water to teach them how to drink. Peafowl need to have access to clean drinking water at all times. Use a 1 quart chick waterer. Clean marbles in the dish will help prevent drowning. Warm water for the first few hours may be beneficial. Include vitamin or electrolyte powder in the water for an extra boost after the third day for up to 5 days at a time and during times of stress.

Feed: Food should be available at all times. Peachicks may have a difficult time eating, so you can start them off with cooked eggs (mashed up) or cottage cheese for the first few days, and then start them on a gamebird feed or turkey starter of 28-30% protein for 6 weeks. Thereafter, they will do just fine on a gamebird grower/maintenance feed. If dirt or pebbles are not accessible, you should provide grit for proper digestion. Peafowl also enjoy greens, shelled or cracked corn, oats, sunflower seeds, insects and other forage. White millet can be used as a training aid or treat.

Litter: The best option for bedding material is 2 inches of large size kiln dried pine shavings. Use paper towels above the shavings for the first few days. Do not use sawdust or cedar shavings. The bedding must be kept clean and dry for optimum health.

Coop and Run Considerations: A flight pen for a trio of breeding peafowl should be twenty feet long with a shelter at the end to escape extreme weather and to nest or roost. The shelter should be at least six feet tall and wide enough for the male to spread his tail feathers. Peafowl are great fliers and can become semi-wild if left to free range, so you will want to keep the flight pen covered. Peafowl are prone to frostbite so provide them with a roost wide enough for them to keep their feet flat, such as a 2×4 board. 1 peacock can fertilize as many as 5 peahens. Java Green Peafowl cannot be allowed to freeze. They must be confined to the warmer states or have a heated aviary for the winter in other climates.

Free Ranging: Once you put your peafowl in an outside run at 6-8 weeks of age, we recommend keeping them penned up for an additional 4 months if you intend to free range them to establish a home base. Peafowl love to free-range and will roost wherever is most comfortable for them. If you purchase adult peafowl, you should also keep them penned up for at least 4 months before letting them free range so they learn to know where their new home is.

Keeping peafowl with other birds: Peafowl can be kept with other pheasants and fowl, but precautions must be taken. Regular worming is a must. We do not recommend keeping turkeys and peafowl together on the same property.

Worms: Peafowl are susceptible to diseases caused by internal parasites. The best way to ensure the health of your peafowl is to worm them at least twice a year. We carry the Wazine Dewormer, but other brands and types can be just as effective.

Predators: Peafowl are great fliers. They will roost in trees, in your barn, or even on top of your house. They may be susceptible to predators, especially if roosting in trees at night.

Safe Handling of Poultry: After handling poultry, wash your hands with soap and warm water. Do not let young children, elderly persons, or people with weak immune systems handle or touch live poultry. Do not snuggle or kiss your birds. You can get salmonella from touching live fowl. Your birds can carry salmonella and still appear healthy and clean. Regularly clean and sanitize your poultry equipment.

About The Calathea Peacock Plant: Information On How To Grow A Peacock Plant

Peacock houseplants (Calathea makoyana) are often found as part of indoor collections, though some gardeners say they’re difficult to grow. Taking care of Calathea peacock and creating conditions in which it will flourish is not difficult when following these simple tips. For information on how to grow a peacock plant, continue reading.

How to Grow a Peacock Plant

High humidity at a level of 60 percent or more, is needed for best performance of the Calathea peacock plant. Many varieties of peacock houseplants offer a range of attractive foliage. No matter the cultivar of peacock houseplants you’re growing, providing humidity is the key to optimum performance.

Providing humidity for peacock plant care

Providing humidity for the Calathea peacock plant is as simple as placing bowls of water around the plant. Group peacock houseplants with other humidity loving plants and transpiration offers humidity. A pebble tray located indoors on which plants sit is a good way to provide humidity as well. Frequent misting offers some humidity, but not enough to provide 60 percent in a dry, heated room.

Taking care of Calathea peacock can include frequent, lukewarm showers. Use a spray attachment near a sink or actually put them in the shower with other plants that need high humidity. Fashion a humidity tent to use at night, or cover with a cake cover. A humidifier is a good investment when growing peacock houseplants too.

Additional tips for peacock plant care

Start with a healthy plant when learning how to grow a peacock plant. Resist the small nursery plant with browning leaf margins or poor leaf color, as it likely cannot be nursed into a full recovery. Place this plant in low to moderate light environment.

Peacock plant care includes keeping the soil consistently moist. Foliage of the Calathea peacock plant can be damaged by fluoride in water. Collect rainwater for watering peacock houseplants, or use bottled, distilled water without fluoride.

Use high nitrogen fertilizer when feeding Calathea peacock plant to avoid pale leaves or brown spots on the leaves. These can also occur when using too much fertilizer high in phosphorus. Leach the soil periodically to remove salts left from fertilization.

Calathea (Peacock Plant / Zebra Plant / Rattlesnake Plant)

Calathea Care Guide


No direct sunlight for Calathea’s otherwise you will lose the markings. On the other hand very dark spots need to be given a miss as well.

A North facing windowsill would be the first choice here, but any other situation will be acceptable providing you can provide shielding from the direct sunlight these places would receive at some point during the day. For example a south facing window which is heavily shaded by tree would be ideal.

For a Calathea to thrive as a house plant, high humidity, warm temperatures and regular watering is needed


People often come unstuck with the Calathea when it comes to its watering requirements and here’s why. This plant demands to be moist at all times, but not “wet” or sitting in water.

This means regular small amounts of water during the growing seasons as soon as the surface starts to dry up. Although the plant will let you off a little and accept less water when things turn cooler and darker as Winter approaches and takes hold.


Like your watering approach, humidity is really important for a healthy and attractive looking Calathea. They all require high humidity and failure to provide this is one of the main causes of failure. Young or naturally small varieties would be excellent choices for a Bottle Garden.

If this isn’t an option, you must find other ways to increase humidity, regular misting of the leaves, while helpful is unlikely to be effective long term in a very arid place. If you are serious about keeping this plant indoors and struggling to keep the humidity high have a read of our humidity article for some pointers.


If you have a plant that’s a year or so and growing well, feed every fortnight during the growing seasons (Spring, Summer) with a half strength proprietary houseplant fertilizer. None at all in Winter and avoid leaf shine products especially those with fertilizer included.


Healthy and vigorous plants will result from warm to high temperatures with reasonable ventilation but without any strong draughts. Aim for a temperature range between 15°C (60°F) – 21°C (70 °F) all year around. Never lower than 15°C (59°F).


If your plant is growing well, look to repot every year or every other year during Spring or Summer into fresh potting soil. If you want to propagate your Calathea (see below) you can do this at repotting time, although the overall “bushy” look will be drastically changed.


Propagating large Calatheas is quite easy by division. All the leaves rise from a central root stock and in time a clump of these roots will form and spread out slightly from the centre. All you need to do is gently divide the plant in half (or into even smaller pieces if you have a very large plant to start with) and pot each new section into it’s own pot. Try to make sure each section has some of the original roots.

Then all you have to do is keep the divisions shady, warm and moist by covering the pots and new plants with plastic. Once you can see new growth starting (usually within a month) remove the plastic and grow as normal.

Speed of Growth

These houseplants have a moderately fast growth rate.

Height / Spread

Indoor Calathea’s can reach a good age and large size with correct care. The Flowering Calathea will reach a smaller size of 30cm / 12in (excluding the height of the flowers) or so where as the others could easily be double that at 60cm / 2ft.


The majority of Calathea’s do not flower, or rather they do not flower indoors and this is because the conditions aren’t suitable for them to do so.

The exception to this is C. crocata which is sold not because of its leaf markings or shape, but because it does indeed produce wonderful orange flowers that wave above the plant’s basic foliage. C. crocata will repeat flower again if you maintain good conditions as instructed above.

A few of our readers have had other Calathea’s other than C. crocata flower indoor. They’ve kindly shared their photos in the comments below if you’re curious about what they look like.

Are Calathea Plants Poisonous?

A beautiful looking foliage plant that has the added bonus of not being poisonous to people or pets.

Anything else?

When the leaves get dusty (and they will), clean them with a damp cloth or wash the dirt off under a tepid shower. Do not use leaf shine products on Calatheas.

Caring for Calathea Plants Summary

  1. Medium Light Levels Keep away from both full sun and dark places – somewhere between the two is perfect

  2. Regular Watering When the plants growing you must keep watering to keep the soil moist and damp. However it must never be “wet” or “soggy”.

  3. Warm Temperatures This is a tropical plant that needs warm temperatures between 15°C (60°F) – 21°C (70 °F) all year round.

  4. Feeding Provide feed to the soil once or twice a month during Spring and Summer.

  • Do not allow the soil to dry out fully.
  • Do not put your plant in a place which receives direct sunlight.
  • No leafshine products.

Calathea Problems

Crispy brown leaf edges and poor Calathea growth

This problem would be a classic case of low humidity. These plants demand warm and humid conditions pretty much constantly, if you don’t provide this then the leaves will quickly become tatty looking. Cut off the brown bits and improve its treatment going forward.

Leaves curling and spotted, with lower yellow leaves

Too little water i.e. underwatering. The soil needs to be kept moist for the majority of the time during the growing season. The only time it will forgive you for this is during the Winter when it has stopped growing, if you let the soil dry out at any other time of the year these type of symptoms will appear.

Limp, rotting stems or drooping leaves

This could be a sign of overwatering, although it’s more likely a sign of the temperature being too cold or from exposure to draughts. The damage will not be reversible if this is prolonged, move to a warmer spot or away from the cold draught immediately if you ever notice this happening.

Leaf pattern fading / washed out appearance

This will have been caused by one of two reasons – either too much light or not enough. In 90% of cases it’s due to exposure to direct sunlight. Find a new shadier home for your plant.

Botrytis (Grey mold)

This is hard to pull off seeing as all Calathea plants love high humidity! But if the surrounding air is extremely muggy then this is entirely possible. Try to provide additional ventilation to the area.

Red Spider Mite

If you have Red Spider Mite’s setting up shop, then your plants in real trouble. Red Spider Mite’s can be very hard to spot with the naked eye, but they spin their tell tale cobwebs that let you know what you’re dealing with immediately.

The reason your plant’s in serious trouble is because these mites absolutely hate highly humid places whereas your plant needs this environmental condition to thrive in your home. So if this pest turns up then your Calathea isn’t being cared for properly and is likely already struggling. This means the Spider Mite attacks will be doing more damage than if they were attacking a healthy plant.

Check out our pest guide to help you get rid of this pest, then return to this guide and read through our care instructions above for help and get you back on track.

About the Author

Tom Knight

Over the last 20 years Tom has successfully owned hundreds of houseplants and is always happy to share knowledge and lend his horticulture skills to those in need. He is the main content writer for the Ourhouseplants Team.

Also on

Credit for Various Calathea growing in a greenhouse Article / Gallery – Kor!An
Credit for C. lancifolia – Gallery – Leroy
Credit for C. zebrina and C. leopardina – Gallery taken by Forest & Kim Starr
Credit for C. makoyana leaves – Gallery – Stickpen
Credit for C. lancifolia leaves – Gallery Dinkum

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The Peacock plant, also known as Calathea makoyana, is a beautiful tropical houseplant, famed for its beautiful, contrasting green and purplish-red leaves that will brighten up any indoor living space. They do take a little bit of work to keep in good condition, so read on to learn all you need to know about peacock plant care.

How to care for a peacock plant? Calathea makoyana needs bright, indirect sunlight, temperatures of 60-75°F (16-24°C), and high humidity. Water when the soil surface starts to dry, fertilize with a dilute, balanced fertilizer every 2-4 weeks, and pinch back the stems to create a fuller, bushy plant.

Interested in learning more about peacock plant care? If so, keep reading! The following information covers the different aspects of caring for this stunning houseplant to keep it beautiful and healthy.

Calathea Makoyana Overview

As with many other houseplants, the peacock plant also has tropic origins which is one of the reasons it does so well indoors. It is native to the tropical forests of Brazil, found growing under the shade canopies of the tall, tropical trees.

The attractive foliage on the Calathea is what makes them popular with homeowners as houseplants. These tall, slender plants add beautiful color to your houseplant collection without monopolizing space.

Peacock Plant Care Needs

  • Scientific Name: Calathea makoyana
  • Common Name: Peacock Plant or Cathedral Windows
  • Origin: Eastern Brazil
  • Light Requirements: Bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight.
  • Watering: Maintain moist soil. Water once the surface of the soil starts to dry.
  • Soil: Well-draining general purpose houseplant potting mix.
  • Temperature: 60-75°F (16-24°C) for best growth.
  • Fertilizer: Use liquid or water soluble fertilizer made up at no more than half strength and apply every 2-4 weeks during the growing season. NPK 3-1-2 is perfect, but a balanced preparation is normally fine.
  • Humidity: >60% humidity. High humidity is really important to keep your peacock plant healthy. Using a digital hygrometer to monitor humidity is a great idea.
  • Pruning: Remove old leaves and pinch back to maintain compact growth.
  • Propagation: Propagate by division in the spring or summer.
  • Re-Potting: Repot every 1-2 years at the start of the growing season.
  • Diseases and Pests: Generally quite resistant. Will get root rot if overwatered. Aphids, spider mites and scale sometimes.
  • Toxicity: Non-toxic. Safe for humans and pets.

Characteristics Of The Peacock Plant:

  • Grows up to two feet tall.
  • Pale green leaves grow 10 to 12-inches long and have a dark green feathered effect from the middle of the leaf to the outer edge.
  • Undersides of leaves are pinkish-maroon. New leaves look pink before they unroll.

Peacock Plant Growing Conditions

Given their tropical origin, peacock plants are typically grown indoors where the temperatures are steadily warm all year round, but peacock plants can be grown outside in certain growing zones. USDA Hardiness Zones 10A to 11 are warm enough to grow the plants outside under the canopy of other trees or shrubs.

When growing plants in your home, provide the following growing conditions to promote strong, healthy plants.

Light Requirements

Peacock plants are native to the tropical forests of Brazil, where they grow in the understory of the forest, where there is limited direct light at ground level. Because of this, they have lower light requirements than many other houseplants.

Place your peacock plant where it receives bright, indirect light. A north facing windowsill, or close to an east facing window will provide good light levels. In rooms that receive a lot of direct light, you can place your plant further from the window, or shield it from direct light with furniture, curtains or blinds.

Avoid putting your plants where they receive direct sunlight as this can cause bleaching of the leaves and brown tips.

Lower light conditions will result in slower plant growth, faded leaf color, and you may also see smaller leaves or large spaces between the leaves.

You can see how Calathea makoyana is often called cathedral windows.

Peacock Plant Temperature Needs

Tropical houseplants do well indoors because they prefer the same temperature range as humans. For best growth keep your peacock plants in a room where temperatures are between 60°F-75ºF (16C°-24ºC), avoiding any sudden drops in temperature.

Keep your plants in a spot where they are not exposed to drafts coming from leaky windows, opening/closing doors, or register vents blowing heat in the winter and cool air in the summertime.

In cooler growing zones, plants can be taken outside during the warmer spring and summer months as long as nighttime temperatures don’t drop below 55°F (13°C), or you bring them indoors at night. Place them in a shaded location or under the canopy of trees or other plants to keep them out of direct sunlight.

Humidity For Peacock Plants

Peacock plants will thrive in homes with higher humidity especially where humidity levels are upwards of 60%. They do well in bathrooms if they can receive enough sunlight. The warm, moist air is reminiscent of their rainforest origins.

Humidity is one of the most important things to focus on to keep your Peacock plant healthy. If your plant is starting to show signs of brown leaf edges or tips, this is a sign of low humidity.

With calatheas, I think it is really important to monitor humidity levels to prevent any issues. I use a digital hygrometer, which allows me to adjust humidity levels as soon as I see them dropping.

To increase humidity, there are lots of options. Many people advise misting your houseplants, but this is far from the best way to reliably improve humidity. Try grouping your plants together, setting your plant in a tray containing pebbles and water, or use an electric humidifier.

I’ve written an article which looks at 10 ways to improve humidity that will help you improve humidity for your peacock plant.

Choosing Soil For Calathea Makoyana

Peacock plants like to have a growing media that holds a fair amount of moisture that quickly drains off excess water and provides good aeration to the roots. Most “all-purpose” commercial potting soils are suitable as they are formulated with those needs in mind. Be careful not to purchase potting soils specifically formulated for a given type of plant such as acid-loving plants or succulents; they have been formulated to meet a slightly different need.

Commercial potting soils are actually a “soilless” mix of peat moss, coconut coir, pine bark, and either perlite or vermiculite. Avoid using straight coconut coir or sphagnum peat moss in your containers; they retain too much water.

If you want to improve the drainage rate of the potting soil you purchase you can add extra perlite or sand. Simply mix the components together well in a larger bucket and then use the mix to fill your container when potting up your plant.

Watering Peacock Plants

Getting watering and humidity levels right are essential for good peacock plant care. The trick with watering is to keep the soil nicely moist, but avoid letting it get soggy.

I like to water my peacock plant once the top of the soil starts to feel a little dry. I usually take my plant to the sink and water it thoroughly until water runs freely from the drainage holes. I let it sit in the sink for a few minutes until all of the excess water has drained out, leaving nicely moist, but not soggy soil.

During the winter when plant growth slows, allow the top half-inch of potting soil in the container to dry out before watering your plant again. Yellow leaves indicate over-watering and brown leaves mean the plant needs more water.

Water with room temperature distilled water or collected rainwater. Fluoride in municipal water can damage plants. If you do opt to use tap water, let it sit for a couple of days to allow the chlorine in treated water to dissipate before using it to water your plants.

Read more about how to detect when your houseplants need watered in this article.


Fertilize your peacock plant every 2-4 weeks from spring through to early Autumn, when the plant is actively growing. Grows slowly considerably during the winter months, so fertilizing during this time is not required.

Calatheas are quite sensitive to over-fertilizing, so err on the side of caution. Use a liquid or water soluble, fertilizer made up at half the recommended strength or less.

Ideally, you should use a fertilizer preparation that contains more nitrogen, with an NPK ratio of 3-1-2, as recommended here. However, in practice, I have had great results using this balanced fertilizer, with equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.


Unlike some houseplants, your Calathea doesn’t need much in terms of pruning. As the leaves age, they will periodically yellow or brown and then die. Trim off dead leaves with a pair of sharp, sterilized scissors, cutting them off where they join the main stem or at the soil level.

You may also like to prune your Calathea makoyana to maintain a more compact, bushy growth habit.


Your peacock plant should be repotted to a slightly larger container every 1-2 years, preferably in the springtime or early summer. Springtime is the best time to repot plants as they begin actively growing after the cooler winter months, and can bounce back from the shock of repotting quicker.

When repotting add new potting soil or mix finished compost into the mix to “refresh” the nutrient content and organic matter. Make sure to loosen up the roots if they are rootbound. Also, when filling containers with growing media do not create a “drainage layer” in the bottom of the pot. For a long time, this was a highly recommended practice, taught to new gardeners. It’s been proven though that this practice is more detrimental than helpful.

As water moves down through the soil profile via gravity, it stops when it encounters this drainage layer created by rocks or small stones. Before the water percolates into the layer, the entire potting soil must fill with water rendering the layer problematic instead of beneficial.

Peacock plants are propagated through division. When it is time to repot plants, carefully divide the crown and root ball into two or more sections. Then repot each section into its own new container with fresh potting soil.

Just after dividing plants, ensure the humidity is high until you see new growth.

Peacock Plant Diseases And Pests

Peacock plant care isn’t impacted too badly with disease and pest problems, although they do exist. As with many other houseplants, one of the biggest contributors to diseases and pests is overwatering so water plants only when they need it to help minimize infestations.

With both diseases and pests, monitor your plants frequently to catch problems early and then treat immediately to reduce the overall damage.


The main diseases affecting Calathea plants are root rot and Pseudomonas leaf spot.

Root Rot

The most commonly seen problem with peacock plant care is root rot, caused by overwatering, especially in the winter months. The roots then die back due to lack of oxygen or the overgrowth of a soil fungus. Soggy soils encourage the growth and multiplication of Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, or Fusarium fungi which spreads into the roots, infecting plants.

Healthy roots begin to turn brown and mushy as they perish, unable to take in nutrients needed for growth. As root rot progresses leaves turn yellow, wilt, or droop and then become mushy as well. Once symptoms are visible in the leaves the problem may be past the point of rectifying, endangering the entire plant.

The challenge with root rot is that it often goes unnoticed because it occurs beneath the soil surface and out of sight. In extreme cases when conditions are perfect, i.e. in pots without drainage holes, root rot can kill the whole plant within ten days.

If caught soon enough you can repot the plant, to try to save it. Remove as much of the infected soil as possible adding in fresh, clean potting soil. If root rot has spread significantly, dissect the plant, keeping only the healthy portions. If the whole base is affected, take stem cuttings from healthy foliage to propagate a new plant.

Pseudomonas Leaf Spot

A bacterial disease, pseudomonas leaf spot causes reddish-brown spots on the leaves that may cause leaf distortion.

You can help prevent leaf spot by keeping the foliage dry when watering. If leaf spot appears, remove the affected leaves and treat the plant with a copper-based bacteriacide.

Insect Pests

Insect problems are more of a challenge with peacock plant care, mainly if you have neighboring houseplants with aphids, spider mites, or scale.


Aphids are one of the most common insects affecting indoor plants. These tiny, pear-shaped insects attach themselves to the plant, sucking sap from the plant tissues, and then secreting “honeydew”. Symptoms appear as distorted foliage and leaf drop.

Remove aphids by wiping the plants with a clean, soft cloth or spraying the plants with a mild solution of water containing a few drops of dish soap.

Spider Mites

These tiny sucking pests are found on the undersides of leaves, wreaking havoc on indoor houseplants. Spider mites feed on the fluids found inside the leaves of the peacock plant, piercing the waxy coating to access the internal fluids.

One of the biggest challenges with spider mites is their prolific nature; oftentimes a heavy infestation will occur, unnoticed, before plants begin to show physical symptoms of damage.

With an infestation of spider mites, leaves may be stippled with discoloration or turning yellow overall. Plants may also exhibit a fine, spider-like webbing between the leaves or at the base of the plant.


Scale is a threat to most species of shade and fruit trees, ornamental shrubs, and houseplants. The pests pierce leaves, stems, branches, and tree trunks to feed on the sap within these plant tissues, damaging the plant overall.

There are two different types of scale insects that infest peacock plant: soft and armored scale. Both appear as little brown bumps on the leaves with the soft scale being more prevalent. Insect sizes range from ⅛ to ½ inch in length; color, shape, and texture vary amongst different species.

Soft scale insects do not possess a hard, protective coating so they generate either a thin, powdery, cotton-like or waxy layer over their bodies for protection. These layers cannot be separated from the insect body.

Armored scale, on the other hand, creates a hard shield-like layer from shed skins and wax to protect themselves from natural predators and chemical insecticides. This layer can be separated from the insect body and tightly adheres the scale to the plant forming a waterproof seal.

Besides the notorious leaf drop, plants infected with scale exhibit yellowing leaves. The yellow spots appear on the tops of the foliage while the insects suck sap and chlorophyll from the bottom. Leaves may wilt, become stunted, and you may see decreased vigor overall in the plant.

I’ve written an article about the best ways to get rid of houseplant bugs naturally. This covers the best ways to get rid of a range of houseplant pests using natural remedies that really work very well.

Peacock Plant Care Problems And Questions

Do Peacock Plants Flower?

  • Yes, peacock plants flower, but not frequently or in a showy manner. Tiny white flowers may be periodically seen peeping through pale green bracks on mature plants throughout the year, but they are insignificant.

Are Peacock Plants The Same As Prayer Plants?

  • Peacock plants are a type of prayer plant, but there are many other plants that are commonly known as prayer plants. Many houseplants within the Marantaceae family, including plants within the calathea ctenanthe, maranta and stromanthe genera are known as prayer plants. The key feature of these plants is leaves that fold up at night, hence the name prayer plants since they look like hands folded in prayer.

Are Peacock Plants Toxic?

  • No, peacock plants are not toxic to pets or humans. There is little to no risk if the foliage from a calathea plant is accidentally ingested.

Calathea fusion white

Calathea fusion white, white, lilac and green blend and create a unique elegance!

Calathea fusion white is a tropical plant from Brazil, Guyana, Colombia and Nicaragua. Its leaves are finely “brushstrokes” of green, lilac and white: the latter is prevalent and, as for other calathee, it is a reason of distinction because it creates a very delicate mix, but at the same time extremely attractive (fusion white probably derives from the way in which the variegations of the leaves cross their colors).
It is an uncommon houseplant in the old continent. It should be cultivated with the same care of the other calathee, being obviously careful not to expose it too much to the sun (the Calathea is one of the plants that live well even in poorly lit areas of your home or your office) and at high temperatures, because the leaves they could dry out quickly. Temperatures should never fall below 15 ° C. The irrigation of the Calathea must be constant so as to keep the soil always humid, so in summer it should be irrigated one day and one no and misted frequently on the leaves. It can be fertilized during the vegetative period with a specific fertilizer for green plants.

With their dark green leaves, maroon undersides and geometric patterns, calathea plants are striking additions to any space.

Calathea, maranta, and other marantaceae plants open and close depending on the time of day, hence their nickname: prayer plant.

At first glance, growing them may seem like a stretch for those of us with brown thumbs or low light, but many calathea are great for new plant parents. They combine the best of both worlds with their vibrant colors and tolerance of low-light conditions. And most are non-toxic to children and pets.

As a bonus, these plants are extremely forgiving. They could lose practically all leaves and still come back in full force.

Photo courtesy of Costa Farms

These plants, however, demand a little more from the average plant parent. If you’re looking for a challenge, try Calathea warsewiczii, Calathea zebrine and Calathea white fusion.

To help them thrive, give calathea the right conditions. Place in an area that receives low to bright indirect light. Keep out of direct sun since it’ll bleach the leaves. Generally, the darker the foliage, the less light these plants need.

Calathea like humid environments, so surround them with other plants or place their pot over a tray of pebbles with some water. If your calathea’s leaf tips are browning, chances are plants need more humidity. Calathea enjoy moist soil—but not wet soil, so check every few days and water generously, draining excess water. Mist soil occasionally to increase moisture, but be sure not to directly mist leaves.

Calathea can be fussy about the kind of water they drink. They prefer filtered or dechlorinated water. If only the tips of leaves are brown, this is a sign your water may contain too many minerals or chemicals. Fill your watering can the night before and leave it out to dissipate the chlorine or try using filtered water instead.

Use Espoma’s organic potting soil when it’s time to repot your calathea.

In the event your calathea is not looking so hot, cut the leaves off to the bottom of the stem to encourage new growth. These plants are good at making a comeback and grow quickly. Feed plants regularly with Espoma’s liquid Indoor! fertilizer to promote new growth.

Ready for more low light houseplants?

Espoma Products for Coloful Calathea

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