Bugs on brussel sprouts

The green caterpillars that normally eats brussel sprouts are army worms or cabbage loopers.
Army worm (Spodoptera spp): The larvae feeds on leaves, stems and roots of many crops. The caterpillars are dark green in color and always present in mass. Adult grey moth lays eggs in mass on leaves or stem. The newly hatched larvae starts feeding on crown leaves by forming webless perforations. The older larvae cuts the stem and also feeds on leaves by making irregular holes.
Cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni): The caterpillars are light green in color with yellow stripes running down the back. Also the caterpillar loops as it walks. The adult brownish moths lay eggs on plant debris. The hatched larvae feeds on older leaves by making irregular holes.
Both insects are very active during night.
1. Keep a close eye on plants regularly. If you find any egg mass on leaves or stem remove and destroy them.
2. Hand pick the larva (better during night) and put them in soap water.
3. Spray homemade insecticide soap solution to repel/kill the insects (add 1 tablespoon of cooking oil+ 2 tablespoons of baking soda+ few drops of Ivory soap in 1 quart of water).
4. Also you can spray biocontrol agents like Bacillus thuringiensis, or spinosad.
5. You can also use commercial traps with floral lures to catch the adults.
6. Keep the garden free from weeds and debris.

Advice for the Home Gardener from the Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk

Client’s Brussels Sprouts “Problem”
Brussel Sprouts with Aphids
photo: Kepplerworld.com
We’re trying to grow brussel sprouts and they have these gray-blue buggies on them (see picture right). What are they and how do we control them (hopefully organically)?

Response and Advice from the CCMG Help Desk:
Thanks for the GREAT picture! You have an “aphid” infestation. Brussels sprouts are in the Brassica family, and this is a very common ailment for that family of vegetables. Most plants can tolerate some aphid infestation but yours has reached a moderate level so you will want to take action.

Management options:

  • Often a forceful spray of water directly on the aphids will knock them off, once they have fallen to the ground most will not be able to climb back up on the plant. Use the water jet option first as it is the least invasive.
  • The second action you could employ would be to use a water-soap solution, this would be an insecticidal soap available at any nursery. They are sold in ready to use formulas and in concentrates which must be mixed with water before use. Make sure to follow the directions on the package if you purchase a concentrate.
  • For more stubborn infestations you can use a Neem Oil application. Again use the water jet first and then treat any remaining aphids with the Neem Oil.

These products kill primarily by smothering the aphid, so you will need to make sure you cover the infested foliage well, targeting both the top and underside of the leaves. Soaps and oils kill only the aphids present on the day they are sprayed, so you will need to monitor the plant regularly and repeat the application as needed. Keep in mind that any active spray will also kill beneficial insects so spray only when you need to and only the minimum amount you need to get the job done.
The following link is to the UC Davis IPM web site’s Pest Note on aphids, it will help you understand the life cycle, good cultural care practices and management options. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7404.html

The good news is you can get this pest under control with some diligence on your part.

Thanks again for contacting us and enjoy those Brussels sprouts.

Contra Costa Master Gardeners Help Desk

Note: The Contra Costa Master Gardener Help Desk is available year-round to answer your gardening questions. Except for a few holidays, we’re open every week, Monday through Thursday for walk-ins from 9:00 am to Noon at 75 Santa Barbara Road, 2d Floor, Pleasant Hill, CA 94523. We can also be reached via telephone: (925) 646-6586, email: [email protected], or on the web at http://ccmg.ucanr.edu/Ask_Us/

Brussels sprouts


Brussel sprouts, Brassica oleracea, are a cultivar of cabbage in the family Brassicaceae grown for their edible small leafy green buds, which resemble miniature cabbages. The plant has long, smooth and leathery leaves which can be green to purple in color and are arranged alternately on the stem. The sprouts form at the base of each leaf, in a long, spiral stem. The edible portion of the crop is the bud, which is a small cabbage-like head. It is a light green to green/blue in color. The plant is biennial but grown as an annual and can reach 0.6–1 m (2–3 ft) in height with a spread of 0.5–0.6 m (1.5–2 ft). Brussel sprouts may also be simply referred to as ‘sprouts’ and they originated from Northern Europe.
Brussels sprout plants
Brussels sprout foliage
Developing sprouts on the stem of a Brussels sprout plant
Field of Brussels sprouts
Developing sprouts
Brussels sprout foliage ‹ ×


Brussel sprouts are most commonly eaten cooked as a vegetable. They may also be pickled in vinegar.


Basic requirements Brussels sprouts are a cool season crop which can be grown both in Spring and in Fall. The plants thrive in cool climates, maturing in cool or lightly frosty weather. In areas with hot summers, they should be planted for a Fall harvest. Brussels sprouts grow best in moist, fertile, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH between between 6.0 and 6.5 and at temperatures between 7 and 24°C (45–75°F), with optimum growth occurring at 15–18°C (59–64°F). Brussels sprouts have a high nitrogen requirement and due to the reduced activity of soil microbes in late fall and winter, organic matter should be added to the soil throughout the year to ensure an adequate supply of nutrients when sprouts are planted. Plant Brussels sprouts in an area that receives at least six hours of full sunlight for optimum growth and development. Sowing seeds Brussels sprouts can be direct seeded or started indoors for transplants. Spring plantings should be made 2–3 weeks before the last frost date in your area and Fall plantings should be made approximately 4 months before the first Fall frost. Sow seed 1.3 cm (0.5 in) deep in small groups of 2–3 seeds and about a week after emergence, thin to a final spacing of 60 cm (24 in) within the row, allowing 76 cm (30 in) between rows. Keep soil evenly moist after planting. If starting indoors, plant seed in peat pots to minimize disturbance to the roots when transplanting. Seedling can be planted outdoors when they are 3–4 weeks old at the same time as seeds are planted using the spacing detailed above. Plant transplants slightly deeper in the ground than they currently are in their pot and keep soil moist to ensure good fertility. General care and maintenance Brussels sprouts are sensitive to boron deficiency which can cause the plants to develop hollow stems and small buds. The deficiency can be corrected by adding boron to the soil. Brussels sprouts should be provided with adequate and even moisture (1.0 to 1.5 inches a week) to keep plants fertile and prevent them from bolting. Mulching around the plants helps to conserve soil moisture and reduces the soil temperature. Harvesting Brussels sprouts are generally ready for harvest 90 to 180 days after planting when the heads are firm and green and have reached between 2.5 and 5.0 cm (1–2 in) in diameter. The oldest sprouts are located at the bottom of the stalk and mature upwards. As sprouts are removed, it can be beneficial to remove the leaves which are beginning to yellow. Some people prefer to remove all of the leaves on the stalk to accelerate maturity and harvest in a manner similar to commercial sprout production. The stalks can be removed before the ground freezes over and stored indoors for further harvesting.

CABI Crop Protection Compendium. (2008). Brassica oleracea datasheet. Available at: http://www.cabi.org/cpc/datasheet/10102. . Paid subscription required. Delahaut, K. A. & Newenhouse, A. C. (1997). Growing Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage and other Cole crops in Wisconsin. A Guide for Fresh-Market Growers. University of Wisconsin Cooperative Extension. Available at: http://learningstore.uwex.edu/assets/pdfs/A3684.PDF. . Free to access Drost, D. & Johnson, M. (2010). Brussels Sprouts in the Garden. Utah State University Cooperative Extension. Available at: https://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG_Garden_2005-02.pdf. . Free to access Rimmer, S. R., Shattuck, V. I. Buchwaldt, L. (Eds) (2007). Compendium of Brassica Diseases. American Phytopathological Society Press. Available at: http://www.apsnet.org/apsstore/shopapspress/Pages/43443.aspx. Available for purchase from APS Press.

Brussels Sprouts: Pests And Diseases Affecting Brussels Sprouts Plants

Brussels sprouts resemble little cabbages, arrayed on a stiff vertical stem. The rather old-fashioned vegetable has a love it or hate it reputation, but the sprouts are packed with nutrients and versatile to prepare. These plants need a long growing season and the gardener needs to be wary of common issues in Brussels sprouts. Like most plants, there are specific Brussels sprout pests and diseases affecting Brussels sprouts.

Brussels Sprouts Problems

Sprouts are harvested in fall when cool weather produces best flavor. Brussels sprouts are not difficult to grow but they are heavy feeders and need supplemental fertilization or heavily amended soil. However, soils that have been worked prior to planting are too loose to support good growth. This condition produces loose sprouts.

Sow seed directly into the garden in mid-summer and provide plenty of water for best growth. Many varieties can take up to 100 days for the first harvest. During this time, watch for common issues in Brussels sprouts and don’t be shocked if your Brussels sprout plants aren’t producing.

Brussels Sprout Pests

It’s the rare plant that encounters no pest or disease issues. Brussels sprouts are affected by the same insects that plague cabbage plants. A few of these include:

  • aphids
  • maggots
  • earwigs
  • cutworms
  • leaf miners
  • nematodes
  • snails and slugs

Protect young plants from cutworms but putting a collar around the plants. You can prevent flying insect damage with a net or row cover over the crop. Practice crop rotation to avoid some of the common insect larvae that live in soil and feed on foliage and roots. Use organic pesticides to combat severe infestations and “pick and crush” larger pests.

The best defense from Brussels sprout pests is healthy plants. Make sure they get adequate water and plant in well-drained soil in full sun. Plants with good vigor can more easily withstand minor infestations from Brussels sprout pests.

Diseases Affecting Brussels Sprouts

Bacterial and fungal diseases are the primary Brussels sprouts problems. Some of these just discolor or mar foliage but others can cause defoliation. This becomes a problem in large amounts because it affects the plant’s ability to photosynthesize.

Bacterial diseases spread quickly and thrive in moist areas. Minimize overhead watering and remove affected plants. Similarly, fungal issues thrive in damp conditions. Some fungus survives in debris over the winter. It is a good idea to remove all old plant material, which may harbor spores.

Molds, like white mold and downy or powdery mildew, can be prevented by drip irrigation and good plant spacing. Most diseases affecting Brussels sprouts are easy to prevent with good cultivation and care practices.

Common Issues in Brussels Sprouts

A condition called bolting is one of the main Brussels sprouts problems. There are varieties of seed that are resistant to bolting, which is when the plant grows a flower and produces seed. These plants will not form the little cabbage heads. Young plants are prone to bolt if temperatures are below 50 F. (10 C.) for long periods.

Brussels sprouts may also have a hollow stem, which inhibits moisture and nutrient exchange. This is caused by excessive nitrogen and a rapid rate of growth. Follow feeding instructions and use an organic food made for cole vegetables.

I finally made it out to the plot on Wed morning!It was sunny and mild(ish).The leeks are growing fine and I pulled these 3, there is a nice length of white flesh on them.The parsnips will get a post of their own and also the celery, this is the saga of the Sprouts.
This is how I left them after clearing all the damaged leaves and spotted sprouts, and re netting them as some rabbits had found a way under the net!
The sprouts on the end of the plants were nibbled and had opened as they should have been picked some time ago!I pulled off all the end ones and added them to the compost in the no dig patch.I pulled any sprouts suitable to pick to give the upper ones a chance to develop in time for the Christmas dinner,which is the whole point of growing our own sprouts.
This is the black spot close up. It did not look pretty,a lot of leaves were yellowed which I think is normal, but a lot of them were covered with black spots. Some of the sprouts had black spots on them. Once the outer leaves were taken off it had not worked into the inside of the sprout, and they were usable.
I thought some hideous pest had taken over, but having discovered the problem, I also discovered the answer quite by chance!On the way home I picked up a gardening paper I had never seen before called Garden News. There on the garden Question page was a query about Black spot on Brussels Sprouts!This is the answer given:This is a fungal disease known as ‘Brassica dark leaf spot’It is caused by Alternaria brassicola and is associated with wet, rainy conditions and with sites sheltered from the wind.If there are lots of densely planted brassicas, the disease is likely to continue spreading.There is no fungicide available to private growers but increasing the spacing between plants will help to prevent the problem.Soft over fed crops are more susceptible than ones grown a little harder.Avoid using too much high nitrogen fertiliser and watering plants from overhead as the spores get washed down in the water splashes.A lot of disease problems relate to the cold wet summer and hopefully will be less prevalent next year.it is also very important to clear away all brassica debris.Our sprouts are very close together. ( a major fault on our part this year, the plants never look as if they will ever need 5 ft between each plant),and the cold wet summer was a factor here also.I have to say when I cooked them they were delicious, and cooked in half the time. I am still amazed at the difference in taste in homegrown and shop bought.Picking and eating as soon as possible is the key I think.
On a lighter note our strawberries moved in to the unheated greenhouse,I think they should have enough frost by now, we will wait to see the result of this idea.


Resembling tiny heads of cabbage, Brussels sprouts provide a fall vegetable treat. Some folks find them too sulphurous in flavor, but when they’re shredded and sauteed with bacon or roasted with olive oil to a deep brown, Brussels sprouts exude a nutty, charred flavor that speaks of fall cooking.

A batch of moldy sprouts ruins your recipe. Shop for them when they are in season, from late September through February. If you’re purchasing from a farmers market vendor, ask when the Brussels sprouts were picked; they are usually best after the first hard frost.

For the freshest options look for:

  • a bright green exterior
  • tight, bundled leaves
  • and a firm feel.


Sprouts purchased on the stem are usually fresher than loose ones. They’re less likely to have molded or spoiled.

Cut into a moldy sprout and you may never want to purchase the vegetable again. Save yourself by avoiding any Brussels sprouts that are:

  • yellowed or brown in color
  • have leaves pulling away from the center
  • feel squishy.

If you have Brussels sprouts with pits or cracks, they may have mold present inside that you isn’t obvious on the outside. This type of mold thrives in warm or humid conditions, which is why buying sprouts after the first frost and during colder temperature times is best.

The smaller the Brussels sprout, the sweeter the flavor. Fat, large sprouts are usually more cabbage-like in flavor. Raw preparations of Brussels sprouts emphasize their chewy texture and intense flavor, so they’re best steamed, boiled, roasted or sauteed.

Once you get a batch of quality sprouts home from the market, store them properly to prevent mold growth. They’ll keep for about two weeks in the refrigerator, but the sooner you use them the better. If you’ve purchased them on the stalk, you can pluck them and place the loose balls in a bowl or storage container without a lid. Don’t remove the outer leaves until you’re ready to cook them, even as they wilt; these leaves will protect the interior as they sit.

Aphids – the Yucky Bug, and How to Prep Brussels Sprouts

Member Anna Weber writes, “What are those ‘bugs’ that I find in vegetables like broccoli and now the Brussels sprouts? Are they aphids? Are they edible? The thought just grosses me out so I end up throwing away a lot of healthful vegetables. Can I wash/rinse them off, and how?” Folks, Anna brings up a good question. This is a subject none of us like to deal with but which we have all inevitably encountered.

Yes, Anna, those’re definitely aphids. Tiny soft-bodied grey fuzzy trouble-makers. Sesame-seed-sized Tribbles. You “can” eat them, as in they’re not harmful (technically I suppose they’d be protein), so it won’t hurt if you ingest a few — but they don’t taste good. (And don’t ask me how I know this; you probably, ahem, already know the answer!) A solution from bygone days was to introduce lots of ground black pepper to the dish you were making — the pepper flavor hid the aphid taste, and the little black flecks of pepper hid the… well, you get the idea. I’ve never consciously done this myself, but it’s a bit of lore that could come in handy if you were stuck between a rock and a hard place (i.e. between hunger and no other options). But don’t despair; there are other ways to deal with them!

In our CSA shares we most often encounter them in the brassicas — broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, kale. With leafy things like kale, they’re easy enough to spot and wash/rub off; they are a bit clingy though, so a simple rinse doesn’t always cut it. Sometimes you have to get your fingers down in there and rub while rinsing, to dislodge them. Cleaning them out of Broccoli and Brussels sprouts is another story entirely though, as both have lots of little interstices for hiding in.

First, broccoli. About a year ago I wrote a comprehensive treatment (with good pictures) for dealing with aphids in broccoli so definitely go there if you specifically want to address aphids in broccoli. This is by far the best technique I’ve come up with. Rinsing does not work; not even rinsing with hot water.

On to Brussels sprouts. Here, eradicating aphids is a wee bit easier than with broccoli as a) you have to prep each individual sprout before you cook them anyway, b) the buggers are easier to spot, and c) the techniques for removing them are essentially a slightly more aggressive version of the prep you’re already doing.

So: that provides a nice segue into simply showing you how to prep Brussels sprouts!

Prepping Brussels sprouts takes some patience, because there’s no getting around having to deal with them one at a time. It’s all well worth the trouble though, because boy are they good! Think of it as a zen exercise; makes it very contemplative, calming.

Generally speaking (and especially if aphids are not evident), you don’t have to wash Brussels sprouts because you are already “cleaning” them by trimming off the bottom and then peeling away a few outer leaves.

If aphids are present, simply trim off the areas where you see them, or remove more leaves until you’ve reached a layer where they are no longer present.

Or if after trimming and removing a few leaves there are still some aphids and it seems a waste to cut away more sprout to remove them, use a soft-bristle brush under a little running water to clean remaining aphids out of the crevices. I sometimes do this; I go back and forth. Cutting them in half is a reassuring step as well, as this makes it easy to confirm you got all the aphids.

(Cutting in half is not a required prep step though; it’s just one I commonly make, as I like to pan brown them. They are also delicious oven-roasted whole, with a little olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper.)

Sometimes a sprout will just have too many aphids; if that’s the case, chalk it up as a loss and move on to the next sprout.

Pan-Browned Sprout Recipes
There are really many variations, and you should totally feel free to experiment, but the basic steps are: steam trimmed, halved sprouts for a scant two minutes, then brown in a heavy-bottomed skillet in some sort of fat (olive oil, butter, or a combination of both; bacon drippings; coconut oil; whatever you like to cook with), and season with salt. Beyond that, you can introduce herbs; you can introduce other veggies or alliums (onion, leek, garlic); mushrooms, eggs, bacon/ham/pancetta type things, cheeses… I’ve even added nuts and liqueur and flambeed them! (Stand back or you’ll singe your eyebrows!)

In the first example I browned them in a combo of butter and olive oil, then embellished by adding herbes de provence, salt and pepper, mushrooms and shelled pistachios. I like herbes de provence a lot with sprouts, but they would also be good with thyme, or sage.
I try to turn them all cut-side down, so they get nice and browned on the flat sides.

In the second example – a simple breakfast scramble – I used the same butter, oil and seasonings combo (herbes de provence, salt and pepper), but instead of the mushrooms and nuts I added beaten eggs and made a scramble, then served ’em up with a side of sourdough toast. A yummy addition to this combination, if you have it, is to crumble some feta cheese on top and let it melt for a minute or so before serving. But if you don’t have cheese (as I didn’t in this example), they are still perfectly yummy!

Bon appetit!

The few remaining winter crops are putting on a showy display in the kitchen garden right now. The tough stalks and stems of Brussels sprouts and red cabbage have sent out tender, broccoli-like buds and the overgrown arugula is topped with creamy white, four-petal blooms. I could have pulled these plants out weeks ago, but I left them in place, both for their beauty and for their taste.

Brussels sprouts always surprise me this time of year with bright new growth bursting out along scarred stalks. Cabbages send out buds too, just below the point where the heads were cut. The red cabbage buds are especially pretty this year, blue green tinged with purple rising above the tattered winter leaves. Like the buds of kale, these other cabbage family flower buds are sweet and tender. Lightly steamed, they are delicious; sautéed in olive oil, garlic and red pepper flakes they are even better.

There are many more arugula blossoms than I could possibly use but I’ve left them all blooming anyway. They make a lovely garnish—I scattered them over a frittata the other day—and their subtle, sweet flavor, less spicy than the leaves, is a great addition to early spring salads.

These buds and blossoms are a short-lived treat, the last gift of the winter garden. In a week or two we’ll have eaten them all and I’ll finally pull the plants to make way for spring and summer crops but for now we’re enjoying them.

This has been a banner year for lilac blooms, but if you don’t prune, next year could be a dud. That’s because the trees often exhaust themselves forming seed and then take a year off from heavy flowering to renew their energy. Remove the flower heads as soon as the blooms fade by cutting back just above a pair of leaves. That will stimulate new shoots to grow and form next year’s flower buds.

Since lilacs usually tend to get taller than desired, this is a good time to limit height as well, by cutting back a few of the tallest stems and vigorous side branches lower down in the tree. Remember that flowers are produced on growth that occurred in the previous season, so don’t cut back too many branches down hard or you’ll pay for the reduction in size with reduced flowering next spring.

Plant new purchases now

If you’re like me, you’ve got about 7 gazillion spectacular trees, shrubs and perennial treasures that you brought home from a plant sales sitting in your driveway, and you have no idea where you’re going to put them. Do your best to get them in the ground. Plants hate sitting in pots, and they won’t last long in the driveway.

In the meantime, remember to water them daily and if there will be a long delay before you can plant them, consider potting them up into a bigger container. Make a goal to plant them all by the end of next week.

Give sprouts

a chance

Why is it that in almost every couple, one person loves them, while the other detests them? OK, all of you Brussels sprout detractors: It’s time to give these little love nibbles another try. No vegetable offers more health benefits than Brussels sprouts, and no one can resist Brussels sprouts cut in half and roasted on the grill.

Brussels sprouts taste best and are sweeter after they have endured a couple of light frosts; hence the best time to sow the seed is mid-May through mid-June so that they ripen in late fall. Sow the seed ¼ inch deep, 6 inches apart in rows 24 inches apart. Thin to 24 inches apart within the row when the seedlings reach about 3 inches tall. At the same time, work in about ½ cup of organic vegetable food around each remaining plant. The worst thing about growing Brussels sprouts is that huge populations of aphids often find their way into the sprouts. Prevent this by giving the plant a daily powerful blast of water from the hose nozzle during the period when sprouts are forming.

Ciscoe Morris: [email protected] “Gardening with Ciscoe” airs at 10 a.m. Saturdays on KING-TV.

How to Know if Brussels Sprouts Have Gone bad

If you suspect your Brussels sprouts have gone bad, follow these instructions to make sure:

  1. Bring some sprouts near your nose and feel their smell. If their smell is foul, or if they are smelling like mold, or if their scent is not fresh or earthy, then they are bad
  2. Check the outer appearance of the Brussels sprouts and see if they are slimy. If this is your case, or if they have depressions in certain areas, then they have started to rot. You should either use them instantly, or discard them
  3. Look at the outer leaves of the Brussels sprouts. If you see any discoloration, or if you can notice any fuzzy mold on them, then mold growth has started on them and you should discard them without thinking
  4. Look at the color of the Brussels sprouts. If you can see brown color on the edges of the leaves, then they have probably gone bad. It is still good for eating, and you can peel off the brown leaves and cook the remaining part. But you should consume it instantly before it continues to rot further
  5. Examine the stem bottom of the Brussels sprouts. If they are brown or black in color, it is a sign of mold and you should discard them right away
  6. Look at the sprouts and see if you can see or feel some gray powder on them. If yes, then it indicates downy mildew caused due to fungus. You should immediately discard them
  7. Like cabbage, if uncooked Brussels sprouts are wilty, shriveled, mushy, moldy or soggy, then they should not be consumed any more

Image: liveearthfarm

Brussels Sprouts (Brassica oleracea)-Powdery Mildew

Cause The fungus, Erysiphe cruciferarum (syn. E. polygoni), can infect most crucifer crops and cruciferous weeds, but strains exist that have specificity and will infected only a subset of the crucifers. Older leaves are more susceptible to powdery mildew than younger leaves. Stressed plants will be more susceptible to disease. The fungus survives on infected hosts or as chasmothecia (formerly cleistothecia, sexually-produced survival structures) on infected crop debris. Disease is promoted under cool conditions of low rainfall and reduced relative humidity.

Symptoms Small, discrete white patches develop on both leaf surfaces. Later, patches coalesce until a powdery mass of white mycelium and spores cover the entire leaf. Leaves later become yellow, then brown, and prematurely defoliate. Black spots may develop around colonies on Brussels sprout buds. On resistant cultivars, a purplish coloration develops around infections sites.

Cultural control

  • Plant resistant varieties.
  • Avoid over-application of nitrogen fertilizers; use an optimum, balance fertility regime.
  • Avoid drought stress.
  • Avoid continuous cropping of susceptible crucifers.
  • Practice a 3-year rotation with nonsusceptible crops and manage crucifer weeds.

Chemical control Foliar fungicide applications can help when under severe disease pressure.

  • Demethylation-inhibiting (DMI) Fungicides (Group 3) are labeled for use.
    • Procure 480SC at 6 to 8 fl oz/A on 14-day intervals. Do not apply on day of harvest. 12-hr reentry.
  • Oils are labeled to control powdery mildew. Thorough coverage is essential. Cannot be used with or close to sulfur applications. Do not spray if temperature is below 50°F or above 90°F or when plants are wet or under heat or moisture stress. See label for details.
    • Trilogy at 0.5% to 1%. Poor control as a stand-alone product. 4-hr reentry. O
  • Regalia (Group P5) at 1 to 4 quarts/A plus another fungicide on 5- to 10-day intervals. Preharvest interval is 0 days. 4-hr reentry. O
  • Strobilurin fungicides (Group 11) are labeled for use. Do not make more than two (2) applications of any Group 11 fungicide per season.
    • Cabrio EG at 12 to 16 oz/A on 7- to 14-day intervals. Preharvest interval is 0 days. 12-hr reentry.
    • Quadris Flowable at 6 to 15.5 fl oz/A applied prior to disease development. Preharvest interval is 0 days. 4-hr reentry.
    • Reason 500 SC at 5.5 to 8.2 fl oz/A. Do not apply within 2 days of harvest. 12-hr reentry.
  • Sulfur formulations are registered for Brussels sprouts (Kumulus DF O, Microthiol Disperss O, etc.). Sulfur is fungitoxic in its vapor phase and, therefore, is effective only when air temperatures promote volatilization. Sulfur volatilizes above 65°F but becomes phytotoxic above 95°F. Using it above 85°F is not recommended. Although sulfur reduces sporulation of established infections, it is primarily a protectant and must be applied before infection. Begin applying when weather conditions are appropriate and continue at weekly intervals. See label for details on rates and reentry intervals. Note Frequent sulfur applications can negatively affect beneficial insects.
  • Premixes of Group 3 + 11 fungicides are available for use. Make no more than two (2) sequential applications.
    • Quadris Top at 12 to 14 fl oz/A. 12-hr reentry.
  • Premixes of Group 3 + 9 fungicides are available for use. Make no more than two (2) sequential applications.
    • Inspire Super at 16 to 20 fl oz/A on 7- to 10-day intervals. Preharvest interval is 7 days. 12-hr reentry.

Biological control Efficacy unknown in Oregon.

  • Ecoswing at 1.5 to 2 pints/A. Preharvest interval is 0 days. 4-hr reentry. O

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