BAT guano tea recipe

Bat Guano 9-3-1 Natural Fertilizers

Bat Guano, the undisputed champion of all-natural fertilizers.

Down To Earth™ Bat Guano 9-3-1 is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus and potash and provides essential plant nutrition for vigorous vegetative growth and prolific fruit and flower development. DTE™ Bat Guano 9-3-1 is highly effective mixed into soils, applied as a side dress or steeped to make a potent guano tea or foliar spray.

Application Rate for Bat Guano.

8 cups ≈ 1 lb; 1 cup ≈ 2 oz; 1 tbsp ≈ 0.1 oz

Vegetable Gardens & Flower Beds:

For smaller gardens, apply 1-2 tbsp. per square foot and thoroughly mix into the top 3″ of garden soil. For larger gardens, apply 1-2 lbs. per 100 square feet and thoroughly mix into soil. For transplants, add 1-2 tsp. per hole, mix with soil and water in well. To feed established plants, side dress 1-2 tsp., depending on size of plant and desired growth rate, once each month during the growing season

Outdoor Containers:

For new plantings, add 1-2 tsp. per gallon of soil and mix thoroughly or add 2.5-5 lbs per cubic yard. To feed established plants, lightly mix 1 tsp. per gallon into the soil surface once each month during the growing season.

Liquid Preparations:

Add 1-2 tbsp. bat guano per gallon of water and let steep for up to 48 hours. Water plants as needed or filter and apply as a foliar spray. Be sure to use all of the guano liquid once it is prepared.

Guaranteed Analysis

TOTAL NITROGEN (N) 9.0%
2.7% Water Soluble Nitrogen
6.3% Water Insoluble Nitrogen

AVAILABLE PHOSPHATE (P2O5) 3.0%

SOLUBLE POTASH (K2O) 1.0%

Derived from:

Bat Guano

Listed by the Organic Materials Review Institute for use in organic production.

Bat Guano, 0-7-0

Bat Guano 0-7-0 promotes development in all types of plants, trees and ornamentals while encouraging strong root development and plant hardiness. An excellent source of all-natural phosphorus and calcium for exceptional flower and fruit development.

Phosphorous is one of the three big nutrients for plants, playing a role in both root and bloom development, which helps produce high-quality fruit and flowers.

Phosphorus helps plants boost root development, meaning plants will grow faster and be healthier because they can absorb more water and nutrients from the soil.

Ingredients: Bat Guano.

Interested in reading more about organic soil amendments? We have additional information located on our Organic Soil Amendments page.

Conversions: 1.5 cups = 1 lb; 1/4 cup = 2.5 oz; 1 Tbsp = 0.6 oz

Suggested application rates:

Vegetable Garden and Flower Beds

¤ New: apply 2.5 – 5 lbs per 100 sq ft, thoroughly mixing into the top 3″ of soil.

¤ Transplants: add 1 – 2 Tbsp per hole, mixing into soil and watering well.

¤ Established: side dress 1 – 2 oz once each month during the growing season to promote fruiting and flowering.

Containers

¤ New: add 1 – 2 Tbsp per gallon of soil and thoroughly mix (or add 2.5 – 5 lbs per cubic yard).

¤ Established: lightly mix 1 Tbsp per gallon into the soil surface once each month during the growing season.

Liquid Preparation (Teas)

¤ Steep: add 1 – 2 Tbsp per gallon of water and let steep/sit up to 48 hours agitating periodically.

¤ Apply: directly to soil around plants, or filter and use as a foliar spray.

¤ Solution does not keep, be sure to use all of the solution once it’s been prepared.

Bat droppings and urine

Most commonly bat droppings accumulate underneath the roost, and below the points bats use to access a building or a roosting area.

All UK bats feed on insects, so their droppings are made up of dried insect remains. Bat droppings can sometimes be mistaken for mouse droppings but unlike mouse droppings they do not contain any moisture and therefore will crumble easily (and look slightly sparkly when crumbled).

On extremely rare occasions there are health risks from allergic reactions, dust inhalation (e.g. if cleaning up very large quantities of droppings), and gastro-intestinal infection from consumption of droppings. These risks can all be avoided by following simple precautions (e.g. wearing a dust mask when clearing droppings) and maintaining basic standards of hygiene.

If you have concerns about an accumulation of bat droppings please seek advice from the National Bat Helpline. There are things that can be done to help, for example if the roost is accessible a layer of newspapers can be spread under the bats favourite roosting sites i.e. where droppings accumulate. This should be done when the bats are absent from the roost (usually between September – April) then removed and replaced annually. Droppings can be binned or added to compost.

Identifying A Bat Problem

Sounds In The Attic

Calls to us regarding bat problems usually start coming in during the middle of the winter – these calls are almost always big brown bats.

Big brown bats “wake up” in the middle of winter warm spells sometimes, move around in the attic, and stumble into living quarters or offices.

When spring comes around, bat eviction requests start to come in once again, and do not stop until it cools off in the fall. Why? In the fall, your bats were breeding. In the spring, they start to have their babies. If you are a parent, you know that you want to get away from your children, well at least occasionally, that is what the bats are doing.

The above photo was taken of some bats The Wildlife Whisperer encountered at a client’s home – “hanging out” on their attic screen. It helps illustrate how ineffective methods can sometimes actually make a problem worse. The screen was meant to help keep animals out, but instead it gave them a place to “hang out” instead. Note the guano piling up on the ground beneath them.

Signs Around The House

Some of the signs of bats to look for around your home or business include bat feces, also called guano, and grease marks on buildings.

Look for feces on the ground inside or outside your home, and marks toward the roof where the bats might be entering and exiting the attic.

The photos below are examples of signs that indicate bats around your home. The guano on the left was found on the insulation in an attic. The marks to the right are the results of the bats bodies producing “grease” and leaving it on the surface where the bats enter and exit the building.

Bat guano droppings
in attic insulation Bat grease marks where bats
are going in and out of a home

Bats love hanging out behind window shutters too, and often settle in behind them. Bats have a tendency to squeeze their way into some pretty interesting places, consequently, signs of guano and grease marks may not always be limited to the attic or upper level areas of your home.

Identifying Guano

If you find “mouse droppings” by your door, it may be bat guano. Every year we receive an incredible number of calls with complaints about mouse droppings outside of people’s homes and businesses. However, upon investigation these droppings frequently turn out to be bat feces.

Bat feces is called guano. Imagine for a moment, (because most people don’t want to do it), picking up a handful of this guano and gently crushing it in the palm of your hand. If this is done outdoors under sunlight you will see hundreds of sparkly and shiny things in the droppings. This is because Guano primarily consists of the hundreds and thousands of insects bats consume every evening. The shiny things you see are insect eyes and wings; and it helps illustrate why we say bats outside are good.

Indicators Of Feeding Roost
And Free Roosting Bat Problems

People often tell us “I see bat guano on the ground but not the bat”. In such cases, if you find bat guano on the ground or on your deck and you look up and do not see the bat, this is referred to as a “feeding roost”.

A feeding roost is a location desirable for bats to come to on a nightly basis to digest their food, urinate, defecate and leave by dawn.

A free roosting bat is one that likes to hang around various areas around your home in search of a warm, cozy spot to shelter and roost.

Free roosting bats are more common in areas where homes or businesses leave lights on at night. Lights do not scare or repel bats away, they attract them instead. Bats are attracted to lights because lights attract insects, making cozy areas behind architectural structures close to lights very appealing to bats. Arched entry ways or porches are borderline irresistible to bats; and your attic is simply Heaven.

The most common area for bat guano to be seen for the first time by home owners will be underneath wall mounted speakers in the corner of their front or back porch, as well as behind shutters and outdoor televisions. These areas are dark and cozy, and a perfect place for a bat to tuck itself away snug and secure during the daytime hours.

Compost-Guano Tea Tastes Yummie!

Hey guys!
Brand of Guano’s are Sunleaves.
Well I been using a lot of info found here in this organic soil forum and a few other posts here @ The Farm, in Skunk Magazine and at their Indoor Forums; stuff written by the Rev. I think some of the info I have been using was also written by him here, but under another handle long ago…the stuff seems to have the same writing style. Recently I purchased the book Teaming With Microbes, which everyone seems to recommend on this subject, haven’t finished the book yet though but worth the $24 so far.
I’m in organic soil. Mostly Fox Farm Ocean Forest and Light Warrior. Recently I have been reusing soil by adding Worm Castings, Mushroom Compost, Greensand, Azomite, Rock Phosphate, Bone Meal, 10-2-1 Mexican Bat Guano, Fox Farm 5-5-5 dry fertilizer w/ myco’s, Epsom salt, and Dolomite Lime.
I mostly don’t start feeding anything except Great White’s myco fungi (every 14days) for about 30 days in these rich soils. I use RO water. And use water-only about every other watering. For teas, I been doing about every 8-12 days apart. Most of the tea recipes are really the same or at least same ingredients with different Guanos depending on Veg or Flower Cycles and nute needs.
Basic Tea

  • 1gallon RO water
  • 1/4c Worm Castings
  • 1/4c Mushroom Compost
  • 3ml Maxi Crop
  • 1tbl Molasses
  • Optional, Great White about 2 hours before end of brew.

Brew for about 22 hours with airstone and dilute the tea down to about 3-5 gallons –A lot of folks only add 1 extra gallon of water, but I like to go light on any kind of nutes. More than 22-23 hours and the foam starts to go away and the tea’s BACTERIA MICROBES are starting to not be as happy, time to use it or add a little more molasses and worm casting to prolong brewing.​
The above recipe is just full of micro-life and little over-powering nutrients. From what I understand (have not tested) it can be feed literally every watering.​
Now let’s start adding in some goodies for plants that are needing nutrients.
For Veg Cycle
Brew for about 22 hours and dilute to 3-5 gallons of RO water. I don’t need a lot of Veg-Teas personally with my setup, but have used this tea when seeing the need of food after about 30 days in “fresh” soil.​
For Bud (Early to Mid Cycle)

  • 1gallon RO water
  • 1/4c Worm Castings
  • 1/4c Mushroom Compost
  • 3ml Maxi Crop
  • 1tbl Molasses
  • 1tsp-Heaping 5-5-5 Fox Farm Peace of Mind (w/ Mycos)
  • 1-2tbl Indonesian Bat Guano .5-12-.2
  • 1-2tbl Peruvian Seabird Guano 10-10-2

Brew for about 22 hours and dilute to 3-5 gallons of RO water. I use this tea about every 2-3 waterings.​
For Bud (Past Halfway and Late Cycle)
Brew for about 3 days to promote the FUNGAL MICROBES and dilute to 3-5 gallons of RO water. I use this tea about every other watering.​
Additional Thoughts and Findings.

  • If I don’t have a tea brewed and feel the plants need some food I have been using Fox Farm Big Bloom at 7ml per gallon and/or 2-3ml of General Hydro’s CaMg+.
  • Bacteria microbes are more preferred for Vegging plants and first half of flowering.
  • Fungus microbes are more preferred for Flowering plants.
  • It is hard do a tea wrong. Keep it bubbling, don’t brew too long when looking for Bacteria Microbes, use immediately, don’t save the extras. And these recipes can be used loosely it seems; you can even add all kinds of dry amendments like the ones listed at the top of this post that I mentioned adding to reused soil. Examples: Add Extra Azomite, a little Green Sand late in flowering, or some Dolomite Lime for Cal Mag, and so on…
  • FYI – There are fungal recipes for late flowering where you actually grow and put a little fungus (mold) into the tea. Read up on it.
  • When mixing the tea with water; Strain off most of the nute-additives from the tea for smaller plants or just mix it all in for more mature bigger plants, no need to strain. I have done this multiple ways now and for different gardens but dipping with a pitcher into the tea via a 5-gallon bucket is pretty good because the tea can be mixed-up each time you get some. Or fill water jugs partially up and top with the tea. I like the 5-gallon dipping the best, I don’t strain anything out, but don’t always use the super thick stuff at the bottom, But have though 😉 Just depends.
  • I try to flush for 3+ waterings before harvest by making the plain RO water run out the bottom of the pot.
  • Whether you agree or don’t agree I have not been PH’ing my teas or water for a while. Couple reasons why. RO water’s PH doesn’t read right and will mess up your PH meter. RO Water is ph7 basically (after it sits for a little while) and has no ions (or something like that) for the meter to read. You can test the PH of the tea to find out if it is higher in fungas/bacteria. PH up and down solutions will kill the micro’s you just gave life to. There is an excellent thread in this forum about PHing teas/organics, just read the whole thing to get the “eureka’s” at the end of the thread.
  • The expensive EC Stick I bought not too long ago is now worthless with teas. Serious LOL. You can brew up a tea that is black as night full of goodies and the EC meter says 0.
  • I have been using Great White brand of Myco-Fungi recently and LOVE it. There is a huge difference in root balls when I transplant and cut down. I do the Great White at about 1/2-3/4 recommenced strength because someone here at The Farm mentioned he didn’t see any noticeable difference using full strength and he actually tested the stuff for the Urban Gardener article a few months ago…plus the stuff is expensive lol. Been using it about ever 14 days until about 3-4 weeks before cut-down. I have been adding the Great White to the tea at the tale end, about 2 hours before use of the tea. I have had very good luck adding Great White to the Basic Tea Recipe up above for small plants.
  • *THIS* is the most important thing right here that I personally had to learn and just didn’t “get it”; True Living Organics *is different* than using all organic based bottle nutrients. BIG DIFFERENCE! Example: If you get these much-wanted microbes to grow in your soil and then use organic nutes via premixed store bought bottles, you will kill the live microbes! I just didn’t get this like I said. I would use Fox Farm soil’s having beautiful picture perfect plants and then pour on a bottled nutes and instantly my plants looked stressed, not happy and I couldn’t figure out why my “organic” grows didn’t work out right. I was confusing two totally different types of organic growing.

Seriously guys, these teas have made my plants SO much more healthy. Still some strains needs more or less of some things here and there, but overall plants love the live mico’s. You know when your plants are just so happy that all of the leaves are pointed upward? Well with these teas the plants will look like that pretty much everyday (like their suppose to) including even late in bloom. There are so many more white pistols growing out of maturing buds. And like I said before, the smell, taste, and looks of the bud all increase. We just grew buds that had major purpling that I almost had never seen in the strain where it was only a hint before if grown good.
Anyway if you made it through all of the info thanks for reading my recent findings. I tried to add in as many “eureka’s and ahhh-ha’s” that I learned on my newb way over from so-called organic-bottle grows. I’m no expert yet and like I mentioned earlier all of this info and much more is on the net for research, just search with these 3 keywords; Organic, Compost, Tea. Heck there are even some good videos on Youtube on the subject!
And if anyone wants to chime in anything please feel free to, really.:talking
OK I’m spent, time to go look at the garden and make clones! :pimp:

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