- Late Blooming Apricots
- Apricots: Plant Care and Collection of Varieties
- Chinese Apricot Tree
- How Hardy Are Apricot Trees: Apricot Tree Varieties For Zone 4 Gardens
- How Hardy are Apricot Trees?
- About Apricot Trees in Zone 4
- Apricot Tree Varieties for Zone 4
- Learn About Apricots
- How to Grow Apricots
- Late-Flowering Apricot Trees
- Harglow Apricot
Late Blooming Apricots
Alfred Apricot. Late blooming.
Autumn Royal Apricot. Late blooming.
Brookcot Apricot. Late blooming.
Debbie’s Gold Apricot. Late blooming.
Flavourcot Apricot. Claimed to be late flowering.
Goldcot Apricot. Late blooming.
Harcot Apricot. One of the best tasting. Medium to large fruit. The taste of Harcot is like a sweet yellow nectarine with very mild acid, truly outstanding. Resists brown rot and perennial canker. Frost hardy late bloom. 700 hours.
Harglow Apricot. The firm sweet, flavorful fruit is medium to large. Late blooming, early ripening, self-fertile. It shows some resistance to brown rot and canker. Frost hardy late bloom. 700 hours.
Hargrand Apricot. As good as or better tasting than Harcot. Extremely hardy and resistant to brown rot, bacterial spot, perennial canker, and peach leaf curl. Partially self-pollinating. The best performer year after year. The size is outstanding, and the trees tend to live for quite a while.
Harlayne Apricot. Not as good tasting as Harglow. Blooms late. Ripens late.
Harogem Apricot. The tree is consistently productive, cold hardy, and resistant to perennial canker and brown rot.
Henderson Apricot. Late blooming.
Hungarian Rose Apricot. Late blooming.
Hunza – Very sweet, small fruit, very late blooming tree, but is not recomended because of disease problems.
Jerseycot Apricot. It was the most consistently productive apricot selection in the breeders collection. Flavor is not great. Fruit soften quickly and drop fast.
John Bonn Small Apricot. A selection of the Door County Apricot from Wisconsin. This strain is cold hardy, self-fertile, and quite inbred.
Kazakh Apricot. Late blooming.
Manchurian Apricot. Late blooming.
Montrose Apricot. Both self-fertile and late blooming with brown rot and canker resistance. Sweet and flavorful apricots that are semi-freestone. Sweet kernal. Late summer ripening. Hardy. About the most reliable in the PNW.
Moongold Apricot. Very hardy. Blooms in late April.
Orangered Apricot. Has a higher chill requirement than most apricots.
Perfection Apricot. A late blooming apricot tree with a low winter chill requirement.
Pioneer Chinese Apricot. This late-blooming variety is especially well-adapted to cooler climates and higher elevations. Golden-yellow fruits, ripening in late summer, have a reddish blush, and are sweet, firm and juicy. The pit is also edible.
Precious Apricot. Late blooming.
Puget Gold Apricot – Officially named and introduced by Washington State University (WSU). It sets and sizes fruit in cool frosty spring weather where all other varieties fail. The prolific bearing tree produces large elongated fruit. The tree blooms in early March and the fruit ripens in early August. A natural semi-dwarf, the tree can easily be maintained at 15′ height and spacing. It’s self-fertile.
Scout Apricot. Developed in Morden, Manitoba in 1937. Blooms in early May, when the danger of a late frost is considerably lower. It is self-fertile, but produces more fruit with a pollinator. Hardy to -40°F.
Sugar Pearls Apricot. White flesh. A new US variety being marketed by Gurney and Henry Fields. It is later blooming than all other varieties. It endures mid-winter thaws and spring freezes quite well.
Sungold Apricot. Blooms in late April and requires another variety, such as ‘Moongold’, as a pollinator. very hardy.
Sulphany Apricot. White Fleshed. Very hardy and reported to have a fine flavor like Riesling wine. Late blooming. Self-fertile. Zone 3-7
Tardirouge Apricot. Late blooming.
Tilton Apricot. Late blooming. Self-pollinating and a great pollinator for other varieties.
Tlor-Tsiran apricot. (Prunus dasycarpa) “This is a selection of an unusual naturally occurring hybrid of apricot, P. armeniaca and myroblan plum, P. cerasifera from central Asia. We tasted it in Russia at the Krymsk Station near the Caucasus mountain range and enjoyed the flavor. The skin of the delicious, oval fruit is fuzzy like an apricot but is a dark purple. The tree is self-fertile, somewhat brown rot resistant and very winter hardy. The leaves are smaller and narrower, more like its plum parent. The flesh is a pretty marbled red and yellow.”
Westcot Apricot. A very hardy apricot that does best in cooler climates. The flesh is juicy, sweet and freestone. Ripens in mid-season. self-fertile. Zone 2-6
Westley Apricot. This self fertile apricot from Northern California is excellent eaten fresh and particularly prized dried. The medium to large fruit has orange flesh and good flavor. It blooms and ripens in the late season. It has looked good in trials at the WSU Mt. Vernon station in Western Washington.
Zard Apricot. Central Asian cultivar. Exceptionally late blooming, and it tastes fantastic to boot. It typically blooms about 7 to 10 days later than the latest European-type apricots. Unfortunately it also is unproductive, soft, with chewy skin, prone to rot, and the skin gets cat facing/scarring on it most years. Zard is reported to be more tolerant of frost and have a higher heat requirement than other apricots.
Zimostoikii Apricot. Late blooming.
Velvaglo and Goldcot are resistant to brown rot.
Yakimene Apricot. a very large white apricot which is very easy to grow in terms of disease resistance, firmess, etc. The flavor is a mild sweet melon-like flavor, quite nice. Much larger than Tomcot and all of my other white apricots are much smaller. This is only my second white apricot which I would call growable in my climate; the other one is Afghanistan. I also have several other white cots; none of them are being very productive, another big problem I have had with the white cots. The Yakimene and Afghanistan look to be at least “OK” on the productivity side.
Moniqui. It is not quite as tasty as the very best (Zard and Canadian White Blenheim), and its not as productive as most of the common commercial apricots today, but it is an excellent flavored fruit that is looking to be very reliable. I have had big problems with splitting, rotting, and other skin disorders on white apricots, but the Moniqui are looking nearly clean — only a touch of peach scab.
Borrowed from http://seedlingapples.wordpress.com/articles-2/
Apricots: Plant Care and Collection of Varieties
Apricots are beautiful to look at and wonderful to eat, especially when harvested fresh off the tree. The trees can also be lovely centerpieces in a yard, with their abundant spring blossoms and attractive foliage.
Apricots can be a challenge to grow in cold regions because the trees bloom early and the flowers are often killed by late frosts. If you garden in the north, choose late-blooming varieties. Although most apricots are self-fertile, fruit set is better when planted with one or two other varieties nearby. Trees will start bearing in the third or fourth season. Expect 3 to 4 bushels of fruit from a standard-size tree, 1 to 2 from a dwarf variety.
Choosing a site to grow apricots
Choose a site in full sun. Northern growers should put trees on the north side of a building so trees warm up as late as possible in the spring. Apricot trees do well in a wide range of well-drained soils.
Plant new trees in early spring; fall planting in mild areas can be successful if trees are dormant. Buy dormant, bare-root, 1-year-old trees, if possible.
Set bare-root trees atop a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole, and spread the roots down and away without unduly bending them. Identify original planting depth by finding color change from dark to light as you move down the trunk towards the roots. If the tree is grafted, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the afternoon sun.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and eliminate circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and cutting through the roots with shears. Don’t cover the top of the root-ball with backfill because it could prevent water from entering.
Space standard-size trees about 25 feet apart; plant genetic dwarfs 8 to 12 feet apart.
Where apricots are easily grown, train to an open center. For colder areas use a modified central leader. Prune bearing trees annually to encourage new fruiting spurs. When fruits are 1 inch in diameter, thin to 3 to 4 fruits per cluster to increase the size of remaining apricots and prevent over bearing one year, little the next. Apricots are subject to a number of different disease and insect pests, depending on region. Contact your cooperative extension office for information on managing pests in your area.
How to harvest apricots
Harvesting peaks in July in mild areas and in August in colder ones. The picking season is short. Pick when fruits are fully colored and skin gives slightly when pressed.
Chinese Apricot Tree
Chinese Apricot Tree is a hardy, deciduous tree that produces delicious, early fruit. Be sure to plant one in view of a window so you can enjoy watching your harvest develop throughout the summer.
One of the prettiest edible fruiting trees, Chinese Apricot Tree is sure to be a lovely addition to your yard. The branches expand an elegant spread, supporting many shorter branchlets for an appealing appearance even in winter.
In the spring, pink-hued, white flowers will appear to be sprinkled across the branches, a lovely welcome to the warmth of summer. Serrated, oval green leaves cling to colorful, reddish stems through the summer, clothing the tree in vibrant green.
As the season progresses, the flowers give way to spherical, pitted fruit. Ripening to a yellow-orange brilliance, the delicious fruit is sure to stand out in sharp contrast against lush, green foliage.
Chinese Apricot fruit is of superb quality, and generally freestone, making it easy to use in canning, drying, or in baked goods.
Apricots contain carotenoids which are antioxidants that help prevent heart disease, reduce “bad cholesterol” levels, and protect against cancer. In fact, apricots and their stones have been used for medicinal purposes for centuries. They are also high in fiber and considered by some to be a natural weight-loss food.
The Chinese Apricot Tree is an early bearing, heavy producing variety that is recommended for difficult climates (especially those prone to late spring frosts). It blooms late and is also one of the earliest ripening fruits.
Chinese Apricot is considered semi-dwarf, and is adaptable to many soil types. It doesn’t require a pollinator, so you can even try just one if you prefer. However, harvests are generally larger with more than one tree. Choose a Tilton late blooming apricot as a partner.
An apricot tree is hard to resist. Beneficial not just for its healthy, delicious fruit, but also valued for its ornamental appeal, Chinese Appricot Tree is a must have for your yard today.
How Hardy Are Apricot Trees: Apricot Tree Varieties For Zone 4 Gardens
Apricots are small early blooming trees in the genus Prunus cultivated for their delicious fruit. Because they bloom early, any late frost can severely damage the flowers, hence fruit set. So how hardy are apricot trees? Are there any apricot trees suited to grow in zone 4? Read on to learn more.
How Hardy are Apricot Trees?
Because they blossom early, in February or late March, the trees can be susceptible to late frosts and are generally only suited to USDA zones 5-8. That said, there are some cold hardy apricot trees – zone 4 suitable apricot trees.
Apricot trees as a general rule are fairly hardy. It’s just the flowers that can get blasted by a late frost. The tree itself will likely sail through the frosts, but you may not get any fruit.
About Apricot Trees in Zone 4
A note on hardiness zones before we delve into suitable apricot tree varieties for zone 4. Typically, a plant that is hardy to zone 3 can take winter temperatures between -20 and -30 degrees F. (-28 to -34 C.). This is a rule of thumb more or less since you may be able to grow plants that are classed as suited to a zone higher than your region, especially if you offer them winter protection.
Apricots may be self-fertile or require another apricot to pollinate. Before you select a cold hardy apricot tree, be sure to do some research to find out if you need more than one in order to get fruit set.
Apricot Tree Varieties for Zone 4
Westcot is an excellent choice for zone 4 apricots and is probably the number one choice for cold climate apricot growers. The fruit is wonderful eaten out of hand. The tree gets to about 20 feet tall and is ready to harvest in early August. It does need other apricots such as Harcot, Moongold, Scout or Sungold to achieve pollination. This variety is a little more difficult to come by than the other cultivars but well worth the effort.
Scout is the next best bet for zone 4 apricot trees. The tree attains a height of about 20 feet and is ready to harvest in early August. It needs other apricots to successfully pollinate. Good options for pollination are Harcot, Moongold, Sungold and Westcot.
Moongold was developed in 1960 and is a bit smaller than Scout, around 15 feet tall. Harvest is in July and it also needs a pollinator, such as Sungold.
Sungold was also developed in 1960. Harvest is a little later than Moongold, in August, but well worth the wait for these small yellow fruit with a red blush.
Other cultivars that are suited to zone 4 come out of Canada and are a little more difficult to obtain. Cultivars within the Har-series are all self-compatible but will have a better fruit set with another cultivar nearby. They grow to around 20 feet in height and are ready for harvest from late July to mid-August. These trees include:
Learn About Apricots
Bacterial Leaf Spot: First signs are small translucent spots with a broad yellowish edge that slowly enlarge and become angular or irregularly circular with a reddish center. It thrives in cooler temperatures. The disease may also affect and disfigure flower heads. Burpee Recommends: Remove infected plants. Avoid overhead watering. Do not work around plants when they are wet.
Crown Gall: This is caused by a bacteria and causes galls (masses of plant tissue) to form on roots, root crowns, stems and branches. The galls can interfere with the ability of water to move through the tissue, affecting plant vigor and causing stunted plants. Burpee Recommends: There is no cure for this disease; remove and destroy infected plants. Do not divide or propagate infected plants.
Powdery Mildew: This fungus disease occurs on the top of the leaves in humid weather conditions. The leaves appear to have a whitish or greyish surface and may curl. Powdery mildew of fruit will have the same symptoms until later in the spring when the fungus dries, falls off, and a russet tone appears. Burpee Recommends: Avoid powdery mildew by providing good air circulation for the plants by good spacing and pruning. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for fungicide recommendations.
Root Rots: A number of pathogens cause root rots of seedlings as well as mature roots. Burpee Recommends: Practice crop rotation and do not plant related crops in the same area for several years. Pull up and discard infected plants. Make sure your soil has excellent drainage. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for recommendations.
Verticillium Wilt: This fungus causes a wilting of the leaves and stems on several branches. Leaf margins cup upward, leaves turn yellow and drop off. If fruit is produced, it is usually smaller than normal. Like fusarium this will enter through the roots, migrating up the stem and plugging a plant’s transport vessels. It is transmitted in the soil. It can also be spread by water and tools. Burpee Recommends: Remove and burn crop debris. Plant resistant varieties.
Common Pest and Cultural Problems
Aphids: Greenish, red, black or peach colored sucking insects can spread disease as they feed on the undersides of leaves. They leave a sticky residue on foliage that attracts ants. Burpee Recommends: Introduce or attract natural predators into your garden such as lady beetles and wasps which feed on aphids. You can also wash them off with a strong spray, or use an insecticidal soap.
Japanese Beetles: Burpee Recommends: Hand pick early in the morning into a bucket of soapy water.
Leafroller: This is a caterpillar or pupa inside a folded leaf tied with silk that feeds on leaves and fruit surfaces. It overwinters as pupae or eggs, depending on the species, and emerges in the spring. Burpee Recommends: Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for insecticide recommendations.
Spider Mites: These tiny spider-like pests are about the size of a grain of pepper. They may be red, black, brown or yellow. They suck on the plant juices removing chlorophyll and injecting toxins which cause white dots on the foliage. There is often webbing visible on the plant. They cause the foliage to turn yellow and become dry and stippled. They multiply quickly and thrive in dry conditions. Burpee Recommends: Spider mites may be controlled with a forceful spray every other day. Try hot pepper wax or insecticidal soap. Check with your Cooperative Extension Service for miticide recommendations.
Thrips: Thrips are tiny needle-thin insects that are black or straw colored. They suck the juices of plants and attack flower petals, leaves and stems. The plant will have a stippling, discolored flecking or silvering of the leaf surface. Thrips can spread many diseases from plant to plant. Burpee Recommends: Many thrips may be repelled by sheets of aluminum foil spread between rows of plants. Remove weeds from the bed and remove debris from the bed after frost. Check with your Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls.
How to Grow Apricots
Days to germination: Not readily grown for seeds or pits
Days to harvest: About 3 years until full harvest
Light requirements: Full sun
Water requirements: Once established, water during dry weather
Soil: Well-drained soil
Container: Dwarf varieties work fine
Apricots are a fairly hardy fruit tree that can be grown successfully between zones 4 and 9, though there are some varieties that can make it in zone 3 (such as Westcot). Apricot trees will grow to about 30 feet in height, and can keep producing fruit for you and your family for up to 50 years.
You can eat apricots fresh and raw, cooked and they are one of the more popular dried fruits too. In fact, there are more dried apricots on the market than there are fresh ones. They have vitamins A and C as well as fiber for your diet.
Starting Your Tree
Most apricot trees from a nursery will be one or two years old. If it’s a two-year old seedling, it should have at least 4 solid branches on it. Anything less would mean its not thriving well.
You will want to plant your tree in a location that gets a full day’s sun, and has very well-draining soil. You should allow for about 25 feet around your tree for growth. Apricot trees are self-fertile, which means that you will get a full harvest of fruit even if you only plant one single tree.
Plant your seedling first thing in the spring. Dig a large hole, a bit bigger than the root ball on your tree and gently plant it. Fill in around the roots with compost as well as any extra soil. To keep competition to a minimum, weed around the tree for the first year or add a good layer of mulch at least 3 feet around the base of the seedling. Also water it regularly for that first year as well.
Right after planting, you should trim back your tree to encourage new growth. If it’s a one-year tree, just prune it down to a height of 3 feet. A 2-year seedling with branches should have each branch cut back by about a third and remove the central leading branch entirely. A more open-growing tree will allow more light to all the branches, which will benefit your future fruit production.
As the tree grows, you should continue a regular pruning regimen. Keep the center of the tree open, and always prune out any dead branches. Suckers or water sprouts also should be pruned off. They are easy to distinguish from regular branches because they tend to grow straight up, and are green rather than woody. You also need to cut out any branches that are growing downwards, and any that rub against another branch. These few tips should be enough to get you started with pruning basics. If you can find a demonstration at your local garden center, even better.
Once your trees start to set fruit, you should try to thin them down to maximize the final size of your apricots. More fruit isn’t necessarily better. No apricots should be closer than 2 to 3 inches to each other. Any clusters should be thinned once they start to from. Otherwise, you will have a huge number of really small fruits.
There are some varieties of apricots that are dwarf (or at least have been grafted to a dwarf rootstock) and are suitable for container growing. Good ones are Garden Annie and Stark Golden Glow. They’ll produce about a bushel of fruit each year.
Depending on the variety, you’ll need a very large container like a half barrel. Add extra stone before filling with soil to increase drainage. Water your potted tree during any dry spells or when the soil is very dry to the touch.
Pests and Diseases
Like all fruit trees, there are many potential threats to your trees. For the most part, once a tree reaches full size, it is strong enough to withstand a lot of insect damage so not all pests warrant an immediate response from you.
Peach twig borer may prefer peach trees, but it will be happy with apricots any day. The moths lay their eggs on the growing twigs of your tree, and the hatched larvae will tunnel into the branch and kill the new growth. If they hatch after the fruit has set, they can damage your new apricots as well. Aphids and earwigs can make a home in your tree as well. Treating your entire tree in the very early spring with dormant oil can help with insect pests and prevent any previously laid insect eggs from hatching.
Brown rot and blossom blight are two fungus problems that can effect apricots. If you see discolored flowers or leaves, trim them out immediately and spray your tree with fungicide. Clear away any dropped branches or leaves from around the tree to help prevent any re-infection.
Harvest and Storage
An average harvest for a mature tree is 3 to 5 bushels of fruit each year. You should start to pick your apricots when they are starting to soften on the tree, though unripe fruit can ripen in a windowsill after picking. Apricots can ripen over a period of several weeks, so more than one pass at harvesting will probably be required to get them all.
Fresh apricots can store in the fridge for 4 or 5 days, but you can keep your fruit longer if you freeze them. Cut them open to remove the pit (don’t skip this step or you will have bitter fruit), and store in the freezer for 3 to 4 months. They may brown slightly, so you should treat the fresh fruit with either lemon juice or ascorbic acid solution before you freeze them.
And of course, you can also dry apricots. Again, slice in half to remove the hard pits and dry thoroughly in a dehydrator. Drying in the sun can result in pretty tough apricots. They shouldn’t be dried to a crisp, but they should be leathery when done. Store either at room temperature (but away from the light) or in the fridge for 6 months or more.
- Shakil Says:
December 29th, 2010 at 8:52 pm
I planted an Apricot seed from a fruit variety I loved so much when traveling in Mediterranean. The plant did sprout out of the seed and has been growing well. However no, fruits. The last 2-years, it has flowered.
What do I need to do to make sure there are more flowers this year and fruits will stay on long enough to grow and produce a tasty Apricot?
- zach Says:
June 7th, 2012 at 9:37 am
i love apricots
- Eva Arnim Says:
June 26th, 2012 at 6:11 am
we have finally grown a tree full of apricots. we are anxiously waiting to pick. they are golden and slightly green don’t want to hurry them but don’t want the birds too either
- Francine Andrew Says:
May 9th, 2013 at 7:37 am
I have an apricot tree that is at least 30 years old.I live in zone 7b in Tx. I usually get fruit every 4-5 years as it usually freezes when it blooms. But the last 2 years I got bumper crops. This year no. It is a beautiful old tree 25′ tall and 25′ wide. Last year it got borers. Had it sprayed with a systemic after harvest. Hope I can save it. Plant garlic around it to prevent borers, found this out too late.
- Lisa Christie Says:
July 25th, 2016 at 10:26 am
I have a 15 year old apricot tree. We have one large limb with at an angle supplying a large dense canopy. Can we remove the limb without damaging the tree and can we do it during the summer.
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Late-Flowering Apricot Trees
apricots on the tree image by Ashley Djuricin from Fotolia.com
Apricot trees grow to manageable heights of 15 to 20 feet, are attractive and have bright fall color. The fruit is a summertime treat, but gardeners often resign themselves to late, bloom-killing frosts that destroy any hope of an apricot crop. However, apricots don’t have to be an occasional bonus; plant a late-flowering cultivar and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Also called ‘Mormon’ apricot, ‘Chinese’ apricot trees bloom late and ripen early, often in early July. The medium-sized fruit has a good flavor and ripens to a yellow or light orange. It is self-fertile, produces a large crop and pollinates other apricots.
‘Tilton’ has small fruit with big flavor. This April-blooming apricot is also frost-resistant; frost is less likely to damage the blossoms. The yellow fruit is blushed with red and is equally flavorful whether canned, dried or eaten fresh. ‘Tilton’ bears heavily, ripens in early July and is self-fertile.
‘Perfection’ has large fruit that ripen in July. According to the Utah State University Extension, both the skin and the interior of the fruit have a rich, golden orange color. The fruit are firm, do not bruise easily and have an average to good flavor. ‘Perfection’ is a late-blooming apricot tree with a low winter chill requirement. It does, however, require a pollinator.
‘Sungold’ apricots are larger than most other varieties and ripen in late July. The bright orange fruit can be plum-sized, states the “Sunset Western Garden Book,” and has a mild but sweet flavor. ‘Sungold’ blooms in late April and requires another variety, such as the ‘Moongold’ apricot, as a pollinator.
The ‘Scout’ apricot is an introduction from the cold latitudes of Canada, according to North Dakota State University. This apricot blooms in early May, when the danger of a late frost is considerably lower. It is self-fertile. However, ‘Scout’ produces a heavier crop when a second variety is planted as a pollinator. The fruit ripens in late summer, often into August, and the medium-sized fruit is equally flavorful eaten fresh or canned.
Harglow Apricot is a very late-blooming and productive Canadian variety well suited to areas with late frosts. A proven winner in the Northwest for its resistance to perennial canker and brown rot, Harglow produces medium sized bright orange fruits with orange freestone flesh. Very sweet and flavorful!
Delectably sweet and tender, fully ripe Apricots are a unique taste treat. Difficult to ship when ripe, Apricots are best gown at home or purchased from a local farmer. Apricots are also a challenge to grow west of the Cascade Mountains. Out wet winters lead to disease problems and flowers can be hurt by late frost. Our tasty, sweet, late-blooming varieties Puget Gold Apricot and Hoyt Montrose Apricot are ones that do the best in the Northwest Climate.
Apricots like half day to full day sun, well drained soil and begin bearing in 2-3 years. They are hardy to minus 25 degree F., (USDA Zone 4) and grow 10-12 ft in height. To help prevent disease problems, spray with copper in fall and again in winter and early spring. Apricots are usually not bothered by insect pest in our region.
Latin Name: Prunus armeniaca
Site and Soil: 1/2 day to full sun and well drained soil
RootstockDescription: St. Julien
Pollination Requirements: Harglow is self-fertile
Hardiness: Hardy to minus 25º F
Bearing Age: 2-3 years after planting
Size at Maturity: 10-12 ft. in height
Bloom Time: March
Ripening Time: August
Yield: 50+ lbs.
Pests & Diseases: Spraying with copper in the fall before the rainy season begins can help prevent bacterial canker. Spray again during dry spells in winter and spring. Apricots are usually not bothered by insects in the Pacific Northwest.
USDA Zone: 4
Sunset Western Zone: 4-6
Sunset Northeast Zone: Not Listed
The best place to start with apricots is sampling them fresh out of hand. Select apricots that are golden orange and plump, not too soft and not too hard. Apricots that are soft and ripe will have the best flavor. Give them the taste test immediately.
Fresh apricots come to market from mid-spring to mid-summer, May through July and even later in the Northern Hemisphere. The apricot harvest can be divided into early, mid-season and late. That means you can enjoy some or all of these over the course of the apricot harvest.
Here are a few apricot varieties to look for:
Apium: medium to large fruit with clear yellow skin and some plum taste. Late harvest.
August Glo: medium-size apricot with a great sweet-tart flavor. Late harvest.
Autumn Royal: similar to Blenheim; medium fruit with yellow skin with a slight orange blush; the flesh is yellow, slightly acid. Use fresh, canned, or dried. Late harvest into fall.
Blenheim: medium to large apricot with thick yellow-orange flesh, very juicy fruit with sweet, sprightly, and aromatic flavor. This is the classic California apricot. Eat out of hand or use for canning. Early to midseason harvest.
Chinese (Mormon): small, orange-skinned fruit with red blush. Smooth, firm flesh is sweet and juicy. Midseason to late harvest.
Earligold: medium-sized fruit is golden yellow with a rich and juicy flesh. Use for canning and for eating fresh. Early harvest.
Floragold: small to medium size apricot with yellow skin and flesh. Mid-season harvest.
Garden Annie: medium to large fruit with a bright yellow skin; the clingstone flesh is juicy and firm. Early harvest.
Gold Kist: medium to large apricot with red-blushed yellow skin. Excellent sweet-tart flavor. Use for canning, freezing, drying and for eating fresh. Early harvest.
Goldcot: medium too large fruit nearly round with bright gold skin; thick flesh is orange and firm and sprightly-sweet flavored. Use for processing, canning, or eating fresh. Midseason to late harvest.
Golden Amber: large and symmetrical apricot with yellow skin and flesh, firm, slightly acid. Use fresh, in canning, or for drying. Late harvest.
Harcot: medium to large fruit, firm, sweet, and juicy. Early harvest.
Harglow: medium-sized orange apricot, sometimes blushed red; firm, sweet and flavorful. Early harvest.
Hargrand: very large, firm apricot. Midseason harvest.
Harogem: good flavor. Late harvest.
Katy: large apricot with red-blushed skin and deep yellow flesh; freestone flesh is firm mild and sweet. Early harvest.
King: very large apricot. Midseason harvest.
Manchurian apricot: small, mild-flavored, orange fruit. Use for drying. Early harvest.
Montrose: large apricot with yellow skin and red blush; sweet, juicy great flavor; edible kernel. Late harvest.
Moongold: plum-size apricot with golden skin and flesh; sweet, sprightly flavor. Use fresh, canned or for jam. Early to midseason harvest.
Moorpark: this large apricot was developed in the eighteenth century. Considered one of the best. Juicy and aromatic; sweet rich, plum-like taste. Brownish-red skin with specks and dots; yellow to orange flesh. Midseason harvest.
Newcastle: small to medium round well-shaped apricot with lemon-yellow skin; the flesh can be soft and coarse. Midseason harvest.
Perfection (Goldbeck): fruit is large, oval to oblong, light yellow–orange skin with a pebbly appearance; yellow to yellow-orange flesh; mediocre flavor. Early harvest.
Plum Parfait: medium fruit; skin is red blushed over dark yellow; the flesh is dark yellow marbled red at the pit. This is a hybrid of Japanese plum and apricot. Early harvest.
Puget Gold: medium size apricot with good flavor low in acid. Use canned or dried. Mid- to late-season harvest.
Riland: nearly round, medium fruit is covered with fine velvety hairs; light yellow skin has deep red blush over half of the fruit; the flesh if firm and meaty. Ripens from the pit out. Midseason harvest.
Rival: large, oval orange apricot blushed red. Early harvest.
Royal Rosa: medium fruit with bright yellow skin; firm flesh has pleasant aroma; the flavor is a good balance between sugar and acid. Best for eating fresh. Midseason to late harvest.
Royalty: extra-large apricot. Early harvest.
Sungold: plum-size, bright orange apricot with a sweet, mild flavor. Use fresh, canned, or as jam. Early to midseason harvest.
Sun-Glow: very colorful fruit. Midseason harvest.
Tilton: large to very large apricot with orange skin yellow-orange flesh; fair flavor. Use fresh. Midseason harvest.
Tomcot: Tlarge, sweet fruit with sweet orange flesh. Early harvest.
Wenatchee Moorpark: Large to oval apricot with orange-yellow flesh and skin; fair texture. Excellent flavor. Midseason harvest.
Also of interest:
How to Plant, Grow, Prune, and Harvest Apricots
Apricots: Kitchen Basics