- Why Are Ant Hills Already Forming In My Yard?
- Why ant hills?
- Why might ant hills signal a problem?
- Why call a professional?
- How to Kill Ants in Lawns
- The Destructive Nature of Ants
- Ant control and lawn health
- Killing ants
- Killing ants under pavers
- Ants & Ant Hills
- Ant Hills In Grass: How To Control Ants In Lawns
- Lawn Care and Ant Hills
- How to Control Ants in Lawns Naturally
- Killing Ants in Your Lawn with Chemicals
- How to get rid of ants in the lawn
- So what are your ant treatment options?
- Top 8 Best Ways to Destroy an Ant Hill
- Key Takeaways
- Ant Mounds in Lawns
- How to kill ant beds in yard
- Let A Pro Handle It.
- Use Soap and Water
- Use Diatomaceous Earth
- Use Chili Pepper
- Use Baits
- What You Should NOT Do to Your Yard
- Controlling ants in your lawn
Why Are Ant Hills Already Forming In My Yard?
March 12, 2019
We all know that ants can ruin our summer festivities by crawling over our picnic food or finding their way into our pantry goods. But is summer the only time ants are active? Unfortunately, the answer to that question is no.
Ants in Oklahoma can be active year-round, but primarily become a concern once the first warm, sunny days of spring arrive. They continue to grow more active as summer approaches, and only slow down again once fall arrives. While we don’t often think of ants as being too troublesome, they can be a nuisance and, in some cases, pose real issues. If you are seeing ant hills forming in your Tulsa-area yard already, there are some things you can do to get rid of them.
Why ant hills?
As ants tunnel their way around your yard, they displace dirt, forming ant hills. Ants don’t live in the ant hill. The types of ants that produce ant hills live in colonies underground in vast, tunneled nests.
Why are ants more active as summer approaches?
For ants, mating season usually falls in the late spring to early summer. As they reproduce, their colonies grow. It is busy work to tend to the queen and the newly forming ants. Ants scurry about gathering food and returning to the nest to take care of the colony.
Why might ant hills signal a problem?
While ants, their colonies, and ant hills aren’t necessarily a huge concern, they can signal a bigger problem and may cause issues in your yard. Ant hills can be unsightly and kill off your grass. Large populations of ants and ant hills can make your yard unwelcoming for leisure activities. Additionally, ants on your property provide an invitation to other pests. Having one pest on your property is often a sign that your yard and home may be infested with others.
Why call a professional?
If ants are becoming a nuisance on your property, it’s best to call for professional pest control. DIY methods can be tried to help get rid of ant hills, such as raking them over, but that method is ineffective, as it doesn’t destroy the colony. Homemade sprays can sometimes work, but repeatedly spraying can become a full-time job.
At Dandi-Guaranty, our technicians are trained to get rid of ant colonies that may be plaguing your property. We can also identify other issues that having ants may be causing, and we will recommend steps to remedy the problem. If you are seeing ant hills in your Tulsa-area yard already, call us so we can get ahead of the issue and help you enjoy your yard this summer.
Tags: home pest control in oklahoma | ant control |
How to Kill Ants in Lawns
The Destructive Nature of Ants
Ants can be quite destructive to all lawn types once their numbers begin to get out of control and in plague proportions. Their damage can then transfer to paving and other areas around the home. While many attempts are often made to kill ants with little success, it can be achieved by utilising a few different methods.
Ant control and lawn health
Ants prefer lawns which are in poor health, which is sparse or patchy in areas. Lawns in this condition become a perfect environment for ants to thrive and flourish. Therefore, the first step in controlling ants is to increase the health and vitality of the lawn itself.
A healthy lawn, with a nice healthy thatch layer and plenty of green leaf, is not a welcoming environment for ants, so as a first step learn about some of the basics of lawn care and aim to increase the health of the lawn. This will always start with the basics of regular fertilising and wetting agents, regular mowing to promote more spreading of the lawn runners, decreasing shade where required and a good watering routine.
Several methods can be combined to kill ants. The first is to go straight to the ants’ nests and break them open with a stick, once the nest is opened an Ant Dust can be put directly down the nest. This should be done with all nests.
Ants will survive and repopulate new nests however, so the next method is to use a liquid Ant Poison. This type of poison is then baited in small quantities at all locations around the property where ants are most active. The ants then take this liquid poison back to their nests, killing even more ants than would be achieved by other methods.
Killing ants under pavers
To control ants in the lawn we must also control their entire environment around our properties, otherwise we’ll continue battling ants until our dying days! With this in mind, we must control and remove ants wherever they are found on the property.
Paving is a favourite home for ants. There is often a sandy base which is perfect for ant nests, easy access in and out between the cracks in the pavers, few predators can reach them and the pavers insulate the nests from heat and cold. Even worse, is that after several years of ants under paving, the paving can become uneven due to all the sand being removed. So let’s make this welcoming environment a little less welcoming for the ants.
If an infestation is in paving the first step can be to buy some ant control powder and generously mix it with some fine white sand. This mixture is then poured over the paving and swept into all the cracks to fill them up. This is the best method, because using sticky liquid ant killers can be very unsuitable for areas which are frequently walked on.
This should kill all ants under paving, the liquid ant killer can also be used simultaneously in nearby areas.
Once the ants are removed from the paving completely, there is one last ant deterrent which can be used. This involves mixing some white cement with some white sand in very low ratios – perhaps 10 parts sand to 1 part cement. This dry mixture is then poured over the pavers and swept into the cracks. Over time this mixture will harden without adversely affecting the pavers, making your outdoor area a lot less welcoming for ants to ever establish again.
Ants & Ant Hills
Ants are beneficial to your garden. They de-compact and aerate the soil, aid decomposition and also kill pests.
The ants themselves are not the issue, more so the anthills that they create. The ants can deposit appreciable amounts of soil on your lawn (a bit like mini molehills), which can then cause problems. They make the lawn uneven and can cause scalping when the grass is mown, resulting in the soil being smeared over the lawn. This problem is made even worse if the lawn is wet when mown.
How can we control ants in our lawn?
Short of dousing the nest with boiling water, there is not a great deal you can do about ants in your lawn. Unless their nests are causing particular problems, they are best left alone. Even if you can destroy a colony, it is likely that it will quickly be re-colonised and the whole process will commence again. There are some DIY products which might help control ants, such as ant powder. This can be applied by creating deep holes directly into the ants’ nest with a garden fork or spike. The holes can then be filled with the powder. For an organic approach, ‘Nemasys Nematodes’ can be applied between April and October. There have been some reports of good results with these when used against ants.
Do mechanical treatments help?
The only effective mechanical way of dealing with anthills on your lawn is to pick a nice dry day and scrape them off with a shovel, or brush them vigorously with a stiff broom to scatter the soil over the lawn.
Ant Hills In Grass: How To Control Ants In Lawns
Ants are not generally considered dangerous pests, but they can pose significant health and cosmetic damage to turf grass. Controlling ants in the lawn becomes important where their hill building causes root damage to grass and unsightly mounds. These colony insects settle in large numbers and build intricate labyrinths in grass root systems. Ant hills in grass may pose a hazard to foot travelers and mower blades. Knowing how to control ants in lawns begins with some information on these insect’s soil and location preferences and a concerted effort to destroy their nests.
Lawn Care and Ant Hills
The mounds and hills formed by ant colonies are not the only issue with these fascinating insects. Many species also have an interest in ranching and will “farm” aphids and mealybugs, protecting them and assisting their daily needs in order to keep a local source of honeydew.
Honeydew is the substance secreted by aphids and mealybugs and is something of a delicacy to ants. Having a colony of farming ants can mean real trouble for your veggies and ornamental plants, the food of choice for mealybugs and aphids. Controlling ants in the lawn is a good way to minimize the population of these pest insects.
Ants prefer dry, well-drained soil in an undisturbed, low traffic area. Lawn dwelling ants are generally not an issue because these are not the stinging sort but some species have a habit of undermining grass roots and can cause large dead patches in the lawn.
Another issue is ant hills in grass, which can become large and pose a tripping hazard and make mowing difficult. For low populations, raking will be a regular maintenance for lawn care and ant hills. Simply raking out the hills will scatter the population and reduce hardened mounds from occurring. This simple step is effective if done on a weekly basis from fall to summer.
How to Control Ants in Lawns Naturally
Because ants form social communities, which can live in an area just a few inches wide or a space many feet across, ant populations and their associated problems will vary. If you have one of the huge groups entrenched in your lawn, steps need to be taken to eradicate the insects.
Killing ants in your lawn is tricky business because children and pets use the area for play and traversing the garden. You can try a 3 percent solution of dish soap with water as a spray for an infested area.
Other possible treatments include diatomaceous earth or a borax and sugar water spray. Unless the infestation is particularly troublesome, the best remedy is to live with these beneficial insects. Most ants eat the larvae of lawn pests that they find amongst the roots of the grass. This is a win-win for the grass lover.
Killing Ants in Your Lawn with Chemicals
Spot control is the best method for killing ants. They tend to concentrate in a small area and spot application isolates the chemical zone and minimizes damage to beneficial insects who also call the grass home.
Use either a spray or granular form. Locate the nest and apply the chemical as indicated on the label. Granular forms require activation with water, so it is best to irrigate after applying the chemical. In all cases, wait until a treated area has dried before allowing children and pets into the toxic zone.
Ants can be a blessing and a curse, so consider the severity of the problem before resorting to chemical treatments. Their activity is also a natural pest control and can increase the tilth of soil, acting as wild aerators to loosen the dirt around roots and enhance growth.
How to get rid of ants in the lawn
Green headed ant nest in a lawn
Green headed ants deliver a painful sting
Ants in the lawn can be annoying, unsightly and sometimes painful! Being able to enjoy your backyard is a right for all homeowners. Certainly, if you have children and pets, you want them to be able to enjoy playing on the lawn without getting bitten.
Ants that set up home in and around your lawn tend to be ants that bite or sting. Green headed ants will be well known to many people giving a painful sting that may itch for several days afterwards. But there are a number of smaller, faster moving ants (such as tyrant ants) that also give a mild sting or bite – not as painful, but still annoying.
So what are your ant treatment options?
As with all ant treatments, the aim is to kill the queen – the egg-laying machine – to ensure the colony cannot recover from a treatment. If you can find the nest, you can try and treat the nest directly either by flooding the nest with insecticide or treating the nest with ant bait.
Treat the ant nest with liquid insecticide…
If you can find the nest (not always easy), injecting the nest can be a bit problematic. Firstly, you don’t want to get bitten! The best option for this approach would be to use a product like PestXpert Outdoor Perimeter spray; with its 1m metal spray wand, you can probe into the ground and still keep your hand well away from biting ants. Secondly, you need to ensure that all the underground chambers have been treated. Whereas it’s never possible to guarantee you’ve treated the whole nest, the aim is to ‘flood’ the nest with insecticide and spraying for about 30 seconds per nest entrance is a good guide. If successful this should deliver fairly immediate results, with the nest dead in a matter of hours.
Use ant bait…
Ant baits are the smart way to eliminate an ant problem. Baits consist of a food attractive to the ants and a slow acting insecticide. Ants take the bait back to the nest and feed it to their nest mates, including the queen. The slow acting insecticides allow the ants to consume all the bait before they experience any toxic effects. By the time it kicks in, it’s too late, they have all eaten the bait and the colony is doomed. The challenge with using ant baits is that you need to choose bait attractive to the species of ant causing the problem – each species of ant has slightly different food preferences and these preferences change throughout the year.
An ideal solution for this problem is PestXpert Nest Kill Ant Bait. The bait contains two different food granules to appeal to a wide range of ant species and maintain attractiveness as their food preferences change. Primarily consisting of a protein granule and carbohydrate-based granule, this bait is ideally suited to lawn ants that tend to be protein feeders – they use their stings to immobilize their animal prey.
Two different food granules in PestXpert Nest Kill ant bait
An application of PestXpert Nest Kill Ant Bait will have a significant impact within 24-72 hours, with the nest eliminated within 1-2 weeks. However, there are some tricks to getting the best performance from PestXpert Nest Kill Ant Bait.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Granular ANT BAITS are not the same as insecticide granules (or sand). Baits contain food and are taken back to the nest – they are designed to kill the whole colony / nest. Insecticide granules are a contact insecticide, killing insects when they come into contact with the granules – they are designed to exclude insects from a particular area, they are unlikely to kill the nest.
Treating the whole lawn
In many cases it’s not possible to find the nest or indeed the whole lawn may be riddled with ant nests. In such cases, granular ant baits such as PestXpert Nest Kill become the best option. Simply sprinkle the bait over the area where the ants are active, and the ants themselves will do the rest.
What about funnel ants?
Funnel ant nests make a mess of lawns and undermine the soil structure
Funnel ants are a unique species of ant, which live underground, digging up dirt into funnels or chimneys above ground. In a lawn they can make a big mess! Baits are not very effective with funnel ants partly because of where they live (below ground) and partly because of their feeding habits. Directly nest injection into each funnel can provide good results, but a major infestation can be a challenge and may require multiple treatments.
The use of PestXpert Nest Kill ant bait can also be worth a try. However, with the ants living underground and generally foraging at night, it is a challenge to carry out an effective application; particularly as the bait becomes unattractive if wet (which can happen with overnight dew or rain). If you are going to use this option, either pour some bait down each funnel or carry out an area application when dry overnight weather is guaranteed. Try your technique on a small area first to see if it works.
Will the ants return?
If you kill the nest, the ants obviously won’t return. However, it won’t stop new ants setting up their nests in your lawn in the future (a nice lawn, clear of competition is irresistible real estate for an ant queen!). However, it may take many months for this to happen – plenty of time to enjoy your lawn.
But if ants do become a problem again in the future, at least you will know what to do!
Top 8 Best Ways to Destroy an Ant Hill
It’s not a big problem if the outdoor area of your house has a small number of ants, but in the event of massive infestation or if the ants start to creep into the interior of your house, you will have to take action.
Ants can multiply to large numbers and most of them hide away in an ant hill that may be on your property. Sometimes it’s easy to find an ant hill as it may appear on your lawn in the form of a large mound. Other times it can be harder to find because they are tucked away in a secluded corner of your home, or even worse, somewhere indoors like a wall void or basement corner.
In this article, we will share with you 8 ways you can destroy an ant hill. These are a mixture of home remedies and the use of professional pesticides. Read on to learn how you can tackle an ant infestation on your property the right way.
Ants are one of the most common household pest issues in the world. Aside from seeing a trail of ants crawling along on your property or a mob of ants appearing in droves to consume dropped food or sweets, the biggest evidence of an ant infestation is the appearance of an ant hill.
An ant hill often appears once the queen has mated. The ant queen is prone to act immediately after mating, in order to create a safe environment for the colony to thrive underground. As the ants grow, their activities cause the hill to expand, as they create a series of tunnels that gradually evolve into pathways, chambers and numerous exits. Given the size of the whole network, it can be an extremely difficult task to eliminate.
Where To Look
Ants form ant hills in areas where they have easy access to food. If you’re not keeping up regular decluttering and cleanup both in and around your home, ants will build an ant mound nearby to travel to and from their nest into your home to forage. They do this by laying out pheromones they release to mark ant trails. Ants follow the pheromone scent in a line all the way to the food source and back.
What To Look For
Ant hills are usually very clear to see when they have been set up in your yard. In other situations, they may be hidden in a secluded area. If you notice an ant trail, observe it closely and follow the ants as they travel and they may lead you straight to their ant hill.
Getting rid of ant hills can significantly reduce and devastate an ant infestation. There are many ways you can approach destroying an ant hill and we want to share with you eight of the top ways we’ve gathered. What you choose depends on whether you want to use a natural home remedy or use a professional pesticide.
1. Boiling Water
Boiling water is a simple and effective solution that you can immediately try out. Simply boil a kettle of water, locate the ant hill and pour it right over the top.
The water will gradually trickle through the entire maze of tunnels and flood the colony; the heat of the water will be enough to eliminate any ants that come into contact with it. Moreover, the temperature will also ensure that the tunnels themselves are destroyed as well.
This may make it seem that the problem could be over in one fell swoop, but often this is not the case.
The one problem with this method is that if there are any ants buried far deeper, they will have sufficient time to evacuate the nest. If there are survivors, there are high chances that after a few days you will begin to notice evidence of ants attempting to rebuild their colony.
2. D-Fense Dust
D-Fense Dust is an easy to use insecticidal dust that is typically used for treating cracks, crevices, and entry points to homes and structures. It’s great to treat those hard to reach areas where pests hide. But if you find that you have fire ant mounds in your yard, you can use D-Fense Dust.
Simply sprinkle about 0.5 ounces of D-Fense Dust (about one tablespoon) over the top of the ant mound when tempratures are between 65 and 80 degrees F for best results. Do not disturb the mound or water the dust in. Allow the dust to work for 3 to 4 days for maximum control. Be sure that when you are measuring out the dust you do not use actively used food utensils, like spoons or measuring cups.
3. Flattening it Out
If the anthill that has been made is very solid, then a simple solution is using a rake to get rid of the anthill and completely flatten out that ground which will eliminate the entrance to the hive. This will upset a lot of the ants and establish amongst them that the area is no longer safe for staying.
The ants, however, will rebuild after that, so you’ll have to stick at it for a while before they get the message that the area is permanently unsafe. However, if you want to completely avoid chemicals, this would be the way to do it.
4. Outdoor Treatment with Bifen LP Granules
Bifen LP Granules are a granular insecticide that is labeled to treat many different ant species and is effective in eliminating large ant infestations around the yard. Bifen LP specifically targets worker ants that are out foraging in the yard for food has a residual effect that can last up to 3 months.
Apply Bifen LP by broadcasting the granules over your entire yard. This is important because if you just treat the mound, the ants will simply move over and make a new one.
To broadcast the Bifen LP Granules, you could use either a push spreader or a hand spreader like the Plantmates Scatterbox. While both styles are easy to use, a broadcast may be better suited for larger lawns as it holds more granules than a hand spreader and can cover a lot of ground in a short amount of time. If you need to spread granules on a flowerbed, around trees or are covering a smaller area and want to do it quickly yet precisely, the Plantmates Scatterbox hand spreader is ideal.
First, measure the square footage of your yard (length x width). Bifen LP’s application rate is 2.3 pounds per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Based on your final square footage measurement, adjust the amount of Bifen LP needed and add it to your spreader.
Spread Bifen LP over your entire lawn, in flower beds, around trees, and places where you have noticed ant activity. Once the granules has been broadcast, water the area to activate the granules for effective control.
5. Use Boric Acid
If you are looking for an option similar to the D-Fense Dust application, you can use boric acid powder. You can sprinkle the boric acid over the any hill and let it handle the rest.
6. Carbonated Water
Carbonated water has been known to be extremely effective, especially for eliminating ants at the deeper levels of the anthill. The idea is that the carbon dioxide displaces all the oxygen in the area where the water is poured. The reaction extends deep underground and causes the ants to suffocate at the deeper levels.
7. Directly Treat The Ant Hill With Reclaim IT
Reclaim IT Insecticide is ideal for treating ant hills directly because the active ingredient (Bifenthrin) is effective against many ant species and carries a long residual effect. One of the best methods of how to get rid of an ant hill in your yard is via drench method.
To do this, dilute 1 teaspoon of Reclaim IT per gallon of water and use 1 to 2 gallons of the finished product in a sprayer then apply the solution over the top of the mound and allow the dilution to flood the entire ant hill. Drenching is ideal because it allows for the insecticide to reach the ant queen and kills her and puts an end to reproduction. You are going to want to treat roughly a 4-foot diameter area around the mound for best results.
8. Soapy Water
TAny soap may be used, but for this particular purpose, Borax would be a good option.
Creating a mixture that is soapy works has two effects. Enough liquid would be sufficient to drown out the colony, and would also destroy the structures if it’s boiling. The stickiness of the soap will make it difficult for ants to escape the deluge.
After you eliminate the ant hill, you are not totally done. Preventative measures must be taken in order to make sure ants don’t make a return and set up another ant hill down the road:
- Make sure you keep your food serving area clean of messes and loose food.
- Use caulk to seal up cracks, holes and other points of entry ants could use to forage indoors.
- Trim back any foliage that touches your house. Bushes, trees, and shrubs act as a bridge for the ants and allow them to get into your house through windows easier.
- Stack your firewood way from the house. Not only is this a fire hazard, but the ants will used the wood as a hideaway.
- If you spot ant hills reappearing in your yard, spray or drench the mounds with insecticide and plant grass in the bare spots. Keeping and maintaining your yard discourages ants from making themselves at home.
- Treat your yard quarterly with a preventative application of Reclaim IT to keep ants away all year long.
- Ant hills formed around your home is a worrying sign of a significant ant infestation that needs to be swiftly dealt with.
- There are numerous chemical and non-chemical routes to take when destroying an ant hill. The most effective options are the use of professional products like Reclaim IT, Bifen LP Granules or D-Fense Dust.
- Prevent ants from returning and rebuilding ant hills by sealing up points of entry, practicing good sanitation and exclusion measures and preventative treatment of Reclaim IT Insecticide.
Ant Mounds in Lawns
This must be a particularly good year for ants to dig in lawns and cause unsightly, unwanted mounds, based on the number of calls I am receiving. There are many species of ants which occur in lawns and other turfgrass areas. Most are considered beneficial and do not require control. However, ants may become a nuisance by constructing mounds or small hills in the lawn or by invading the home from the yard in search of food.
The ants found in Iowa lawns are not biting or stinging pests. The fire ants of the southern U.S., well known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings, are not present in Iowa. Also, the noted mound building ants of the eastern U.S. (noted for building ant hills several feet in height) are not found in Iowa, although our local ants may build mounds several inches high and 12 to 24 inches in diameter if left undisturbed for a long period of time.
Soil nesting ants construct mounds or small hills by bringing granulated soil to the surface from the nest below. Mounds may be unsightly, may cause lawn unevenness, and if large, may smother out the surrounding grass. Ant mound building is highly variable from year to year and from place to place. It appears ants may be having an easy time digging right now because of the abundant moisture. Also, there are some places where ants just do very well, either because of soil conditions or colony strength.
Eliminating some of the worst ant hill activity may be possible by raking flat, on a regular and frequent basis, ant hills that appear above the grass tops during periods of prolific ant nesting activity (such as during periods of wet spring weather). For the worst cases it is possible to spot treat ant hills with insecticide. General lawn treatment specifically for ant colonies is seldom necessary.
Rake the ant hill flat and sprinkle diazinon or Dursban granules or Dursban dust onto the soil surface or drench the mound area with diazinon or Dursban diluted solution. If granules or dust were used, rake the area lightly after application and sprinkle with water. Keep children and pets away from the treated area until the grass has dried.
Rates: Diazinon labels are very clear about ant hill treatment; the amount of insecticide product per ant hill is specified (1 tablespoonful of 2% G or 1 1/2 teaspoons of 5% G or 2 tablespoonsful of 25% EC in 1 gallon of water per ant hill). Dursban labels only give guidelines for treating the whole lawn, and calculating a proper dose per ant hill is difficult if not impractical. For example, the Dursban 1% G label rate calculates out to 0.1 ounce of granules per square foot (approximately the size of an ant hill) — whatever that means.
More than one application may be necessary for satisfactory control, though keep in mind that ant management rather than ant eradication should be the goal. If retreatment is needed, do not treat more than once per week or as specified on the label.
This article originally appeared in the May 12, 1993 issue, pp. 1993 issue, pp. 65-66.
How to kill ant beds in yard
These ants will build mounds in lawns that can extend up to four feet in this formic acid into plants that shade their mounds, killing the plants. The large, tall mounds of field ants can destroy the appearance of the lawn and. If you have a vegetable garden, you might be wondering, “How can I kill the ant hills in my garden without pesticides?” Of course, you will want. Learn how to get rid of fire ants with professional pest control products. mounds individually, without doing a broadcast treatment for the whole yard first may.
How to Get Rid of Ants in Your Yard, Naturally pepper flakes and dehydrated peppermint, or spray peppermint oil, on ant trails and ant hills. Mix fluid ounces (24 mL) of the pesticide per 1 gallon ( L) of water in a pump sprayer and cover each anthill in your yard. It may not kill the ants right away. Okay, now that you know what works – and what doesn’t – in getting rid of ant hills, get out into your yard and dig, pour, scatter and rake until your life is ant-free!.
Ant Killer Tactics – How to Get Rid of Ants in the Garden. 03/07/ Fantastic We usually only see a few entrance mounds and small piles of fine dirt. But this. And if you ever see mounds of soil in your garden, chances are that you . Thankfully, getting rid of ants hills in your yard or around your house isn’t THAT hard. It’s safe to say that almost no one wants to see ant mounds in their yard or around their They’re made up of piles of the sand and soil ants remove as they dig.
Controlling ants in the lawn becomes important where their hill building causes root damage to grass and unsightly mounds. Knowing how to. If you have a vegetable garden, you might be wondering, “How can I kill the ant hills in my garden without pesticides?” Of course, you will want. Use Club Soda to kill ant mounds in the yard You already know Club Soda is good for everything, gets out stains, Well it also kills ant hills in your yard.
Note: this article may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase using one of these links, I may be paid a referral fee at no expense to you.
We all want that prize winning lawn. But how do we achieve a fantastic looking yard if there are ugly ant mounds all over the place?
Naturally, we want to get rid of them without hurting our plants. So how do you kill ants without killing grass?
Here are 4 simple ways and some bonus tips you can try at home.
Let A Pro Handle It.
Get a no obligation quote from a pest control pro near you:
A lot of ants live outside your house, building ant hills and foraging for dead insects and other food. CC Image courtesy of Ebarella_R on Flickr
Use Soap and Water
Killing ants in your lawn is delicate work. You have to keep your kids and pets from getting affected by the pesticide as well as keeping the grass safe. So when in doubt, try the easiest remedy first. In this case, it’s applying soapy water on ant mounds.
Mix ecofriendly soap with water in a spray bottle and liberally spray the ant nest with your solution. You can also go full throttle by dumping a bucket full of the same solution. The soapy water will drown ants and poison them.
Use Diatomaceous Earth
Diatomaceous earth is a talcum-powder-looking insecticide that’s made from diatoms, a group of algae found in several bodies of water. The repellent comes from the fossilized versions of these prehistoric plants.
According to Gardening Know How, it’s mineral based so it’s got magnesium, sodium, iron, calcium, silicon and other trace minerals. These don’t just kills ants and other insects; they make your greens grow better.
To kill ants without killing grass, dust this powder on your lawn. Sprinkle it into ant-infested areas. You can also put it around plants to protect them from ant invaders.
Diatomaceous earth works by dehydrating ants to death. It cuts through the ant’s waxy layer with its sharp particles, penetrates its body and kills it slowly by absorbing the moisture inside.
Remember to only buy FOOD GRADE diatomaceous earth. The one that’s used for pool filters is not something you should use for your yard because they have a completely different chemical makeup.
Use Chili Pepper
Another treatment you can explore is chili pepper. Sprinkle the spice on the ant mount to repel ants. Some homeowners even mix the pepper with coffee grounds to make it more effective. But, coffee’s effectiveness on ants remains to be proven.
For the surest way to kill ants without killing grass, use baits.
Baits can be natural or store bought, but they all have one thing in common – they get rid of ants without bombing the entire lawn with chemicals.
But if you’re new to baiting, it’s a pretty easy treatment. It’s stationed near ant-infested places to lure ants with food, and it gives them a slow-acting poison that spreads throughout their colony. Since ants forage in grass, it’s a great pest control method for your lawn.
Interested? Read what kind of ant baits to use and how to install them here.
What You Should NOT Do to Your Yard
So we showed you a couple of treatments that can kill ants without killing grass. There are plenty more out there (check them out here). But if you really want to explore your options, you have to know that not all treatments work well. In fact, a lot of them just zap your greens dead.
Here are some of the things that you shouldn’t be doing to your ant-infested grass:
- dumping salt or salt water on the lawn – salt sucks water out of plants and kills them
- spraying borax into ant infested spots – borax is lethal to plants, not to mention harmful to pets that love to play outside
- dumping large amounts of cinnamon – it has a good reputation when it comes to gardening, but there are some cases where cinnamon can kill grass
- pouring hot water on ant mounts
- spraying vinegar – this treatment is more of a gamble; vinegar can kill a plant by drying out its top growth
All in all, there are multiple ways to kill ants without killing grass. But when it comes right down to it, many biologists and ecologists will vouch for ants as helpful members of your garden. That’s because they eat the larvae of some plant-destroying insects.
However, this doesn’t mean that we’re just going to stand around and watch their population grow out of hand. Fire ants, specifically, can spell danger for our kids.
So it’s not a bad idea to get rid of any kind of ant just to be in the safe side.
Last Updated on September 20th, 2019
Controlling ants in your lawn
TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR TURF DELIVERY AND TERMS OF PAYMENT
- In the event the customer who originally placed the turf order, or the person placing the order on his or her behalf, cancels the order after our minimum 24 hour cancellation period, such cancellation will only be accepted on the terms that the purchaser accepts full responsibility for all expenses incurred thus far up to the time of cancellation.
– This means if we have already cut the turf – you still have to pay for it.
- Any obligation to supply is entered into upon the express condition that Daleys Turf will not be liable for delivery delays which occur for reasons beyond our control.
– This means if we get a flat tyre, or are held up with unexpected traffic delays, we might not be able to honour our original delivery time specified. We will however, give you a courtesy call or text to let you know if there are any changes that may inconvenience you.
- Turf is a perishable product. It could discolour through heat if it remains stacked for longer than necessary periods. These periods will vary depending on the season. Daleys Turf will not accept any responsibility, or be held liable for any deterioration of turf quality due to delays with installation, or poor management on behalf of the recipient once the product is delivered.
– This means you should arrange to have your turf installed on the selected day of delivery.
- Unless prior agreement is reached, and the Delivery Waiver/Disclaimer signed, the company undertakes to deliver and the customer to receive Daleys Turf products on the nature strip. The delivery vehicle will only enter the job area to facilitate unloading at the customer’s own risk and responsibility and at the absolute discretion of the truck driver.
– This means if you ask our driver to drive his forklift or truck on your concrete driveway and he/she is concerned the weight of the vehicle will crack or damage the surface, he/she may refuse to do so. If you insist it will be “OK”, then any costs incurred to repair or replace subsequent damage will be at the cost to the home owner or landscape contractor, not Daleys Turf.
- The customer is under obligation to supply Daleys Turf with all the relevant information regarding the delivery site and to identify any potential hazards for our large trucks at the time of placing the order to enable the safe delivery of turf to their desired location.
– This means at the time of placing the order, the customer is required to advise Daleys Turf if the truck driver is likely to encounter any hazards which may pose a safety risk to our truck driver, our trucks/vehicles or public safety. Hazards such as; main roads, narrow roads, one-way access only, dead ends, schools in the area, overhanging trees, unmade or unsafe road conditions, roundabouts or traffic islands. As such, if Daleys Turf deems a delivery unsafe, alternative arrangements may need to be made, or additional charges may be incurred.
- Turf orders detailed on the tax invoice receipt must be double checked by the customer on delivery. Daleys Turf will not be held responsible if this check is not made prior to dispatch and leaving the jobsite.
– This means the customer/recipient is required to double check the turf variety and quantity is as per the turf order while the truck driver is still at your property.
- Payment must be arranged for all orders at the time of placing the order. The delivery driver will not accept personal cheques or cash on delivery, unless prior arrangement is made with management. Credit accounts will only be offered to approved Daleys Turf customers.