Aloe blue elf care

Blue Elf Sedeveria Care – How To Grow Blue Elf Sedeveria Plants

Sedeveria ‘Blue Elf’ appears to be a favorite this season, for sale on a few different sites. It is easy to see why it is often marked “sold out” in many places. Learn more about this interesting looking hybrid succulent in this article.

About Blue Elf Succulents

An intergeneric hybrid developed by the innovative growers at Altman Plants, Blue Elf succulents are one of the latest to hit the market but are by no means the only one they’ve developed. Beautiful and bountiful blooms are what gives this hybrid its cheery nickname of happy plant. Blooming multiple times per year, the flowers make it a showstopper.

Teal-green leaves with pink to red tips, this small rosette forming plant usually reaches no more than 3 inches (7.5 cm.) across. Stress from cool autumn temperatures and a slight withholding of water force the tips to become a deep burgundy. Bright light or sun brings out more vibrant colors on this small cross between sedum and echeveria.

How to Grow Blue Elf Sedeveria

Blue Elf sedeveria care begins with planting in a fast-draining soil, amended with perlite, pumice or coarse sand. As with other crosses of this type, bright light and limited watering bring out the most vibrant colors.

Aside from their cheerful and sporadic flowering, the ‘Happy Plant’ readily produces rambling clusters. Allow them to remain on the plant and fill out your display or remove them carefully for more plants in other containers. This popular hybrid, indeed, offers the best of all succulent features.

When learning how to grow Blue Elf sedeveria, remember it needs to come inside before the chance of frost, but does benefit from the stress of cooler temperatures as summer wanes. Once indoors, place it in bright light or sun from a southern window. Avoid drafts around your indoor plants but do provide good air circulation from a fan.

Limit watering even more when the plant is indoors in winter. Once back outside in the spring, use it as part of a sunny rock garden or other outdoor succulent display.

Scientific Name

x Sedeveria ‘Blue Elf’

Common Names

Happy Plant

Synonyms

Echeveria ‘Blue Apple’, Echeveria ‘Blue Elf’

Scientific Classification

Family: Crassulaceae
Genus: x Sedeveria

Description

x Sedeveria ‘Blue Elf’ is a succulent plant with beautiful, blue-green rosettes with a thick coating of powdery farina. The leaf tips can blush pink to burgundy, with the brightest colors showing during moderate stress from direct sun, water shortage, or cool temperatures. What gives this hybrid its common name, “Happy Plant,” are its beautiful bright yellow flowers. It blooms multiple times a year.

Photo via jd.co.th

Hardiness

USDA hardiness zones 9b to 11b: from 25 °F (−3.9 °C) to 45 °F (+7.2 °C).

How to Grow and Care

When growing Sedums, keep in mind that these plants need very little attention or care. They will thrive in conditions that many other plants thrive in, but will do just as well in less hospitable areas. They are ideal for that part of your yard that gets too much sun or too little water to grow anything else. A common name for Sedum is Stonecrop because many gardeners joke that only stones need less care and live longer.

Sedum is easily planted. For shorter varieties, simply laying the plant on the ground where you want it to grow is usually enough to get the plant started there. They will send out roots from wherever the stem is touching the ground and root itself. If you would like to further ensure that the plant will start there, you can add a very thin covering of soil over the plant.

For taller varieties, you can break off one of the stems and push it into the ground where you would like to grow it. The stem will root very easily, and a new plant will be established in a season or two.

Learn more at How to Grow and Care for Sedum.

Origin

x Sedeveria ‘Blue Elf’ is an Altman Plants original hybrid.

Links

  • Back to genus x Sedeveria
  • Succulentopedia: Browse succulents by Scientific Name, Common Name, Genus, Family, USDA Hardiness Zone, Origin, or cacti by Genus

Photo Gallery

Photo via succulents-australia-sales.comPhoto by Margrit BischofbergerPhoto via thesucculentsource.com

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Sedeveria “Blue Elf” (also known as “Happy Plant”) is a beautiful succulent with a blue-green rosette and a thick coating of powdery farina. This is a hybrid of sedum and echeveria. The leaf tips can go from red to burgundy. This color change can is also an indicator of direct sun stress, underwatering or low temperatures for Sedeveria. The name “Happy Plant” comes from beautiful flowers this succulent has. Sedeveria blooms few times a year, with beautiful sunshine yellow flowers, which transform this subtle plant into a really breathtaking gem.

Grow and Care Tips

Sedeveria generally needs very little attention. It will thrive in conditions usual to any other succulent, but it also can take less hospitable environment pretty well. This succulent is perfect for the part of your yard that gets too much sun or its hard to water, so you can’t really grow anything else in it. There is a common joke among the gardeners, who call Sedeveria Stonecrop since they claim that only stones live longer with less care.

However, you should still show your Sedeveria some love in order to grow the most beautiful plant possible. If you’re growing it outside, make sure to protect it from freezing temperatures, just to make the job of surviving a little easier. Keep in mind that the lower leaves of your Sedeveria will shred in the winter, so you should remove them to make sure your succulent is protected from the fungus.

If you’re planting this succulent in a container, they’ll need good drainage. You should also add coarse grit to soil-less compost and report a plant every year in late spring. Don’t worry about damaging the roots when re-potting- Sedeveria tolerates disturbance well.

Prorogation

Sedeveria is easy to plant. It can be propagated by separating offsets, but also by leaf cuttings, and by seed if they are not hybrids. You can just lay the plant on the ground where you want to grow it. It will quickly send out the roots from wherever the stems are touching the ground and the root itself. If you want to make sure the plant is starting where you put it, you can add a thin covering of soil over the plant.

You can also prorogate Sedeveria by breaking one of the stems and simply pushing it into the ground where you want to grow it. A new plant will be well established in a season or two.

Sedeveria ‘Blue Elf’

Sedeveria ‘Blue Elf’ (Sedum × Echeveria): A beautiful blue-green rosette with a thick coating of powdery farina. The leaf tips can blush pink to burgundy, with the brightest colors showing during moderate stress from direct sun, water shortage, or cool temperatures around 40F.

‘Blue Elf’ even got the nickname “Happy Plant” because it can produce bright, yellow flowers multiple times a year. It is a wonderfully low-maintenance grower and will stay under 3.0″ wide but throw lots of offsets around its base. The offsets can easily be removed and transplanted onto gritty, well-draining soil.

Soft succulents will not survive a hard frost, but if there is a risk of freezing temperatures they can be brought indoors to grow on a sunny window sill or under a grow light. They need ample sunlight, good drainage, and infrequent water to prevent rot. Pick containers with drainage holes and use well-draining cactus and succulent soil with 50% to 70% mineral grit such as coarse sand, pumice, or perlite. Water deeply enough for water to run out the drainage hole, then wait for the soil to fully dry before watering again.

This variety is easy to re-root from stem cuttings and mature leaves. Look to our Succulent Cuttings Guide for tips on succulent propagation.

Succulent Sunshine – Sedeveria ‘Blue Elf’

Sunny days are hard to come by in February and it is difficult to know when blue skies will appear. Until warmer temperatures come out to play, create your own ray of succulent sunshine with Sedeveria ‘Blue Elf,’ or better known as the “Happy Plant.”

What gives this hybrid its cheery nickname, “Happy Plant,” are its beautiful flowers. Blooming multiple times a year, they transform the “Blue Elf’ from subtle to showstopper as its flowers pop like a bright sunshine yellow. It is enough warmth to uplift your spirits on even the cloudiest, coldest days of February.

Our little elf is a delicate teal-green with rosy red tips that will slowly darken to a deep burgundy with bright light, cool temperatures, and a slight deprivation of water. It is both hardy and readily multiplies in the right environmental conditions.

Similar to our sweet little Graptoveria ‘Bashful’ featured last month, the Sedeveria remains compact and charming, producing chicks around the base of the plant.

As temperatures drop below 36F, bring the succulent sunshine indoors to avoid damage to the ‘Blue Elf.’ Plant this little charmer in a funky container with adequate drainage and set it on a windowsill where it can flourish in the morning sunlight. When the temperatures warm, add a fresh face outdoors to a container garden, bouquet, or centerpiece.

Sunny days may seem miles away, but do not let this stop you from shining on. Let us keep you smiling with our favorite “Happy Plant”: Sedeveria ‘Blue Elf.’

Sedeveria ‘Blue Elf’ is now available on our retail shop and Cactus shop!

Aloe ‘Blue Elf’

View this plant in a garden

Category:

Cactus and Succulents

Water Requirements:

Drought-tolerant; suitable for xeriscaping

Sun Exposure:

Full Sun

Foliage:

Grown for foliage

Evergreen

Foliage Color:

Blue-Green

Height:

under 6 in. (15 cm)

6-12 in. (15-30 cm)

Spacing:

9-12 in. (22-30 cm)

12-15 in. (30-38 cm)

Hardiness:

USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F)

USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)

USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F)

USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)

USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 °C (40 °F)

Where to Grow:

Grow outdoors year-round in hardiness zone

Can be grown as an annual

Danger:

N/A

Bloom Color:

Orange

Bloom Characteristics:

This plant is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds

Bloom Size:

Unknown – Tell us

Bloom Time:

Mid Winter

Other details:

Unknown – Tell us

Soil pH requirements:

Unknown – Tell us

Patent Information:

Unknown – Tell us

Propagation Methods:

By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets)

Allow cut surface to callous over before planting

Seed Collecting:

Unknown – Tell us

Regional

This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:

Carefree, Arizona

Green Valley, Arizona

Huachuca City, Arizona

Mesa, Arizona

Phoenix, Arizona

Queen Creek, Arizona

Aliso Viejo, California

Davis, California

El Cajon, California

El Macero, California

Granite Hills, California

Harbison Canyon, California

Hayward, California

Highgrove, California

Irvine, California

Los Angeles, California

Rancho San Diego, California

San Leandro, California

Spring Valley, California

Tarzana, California

Vista, California(9 reports)

Deltona, Florida

Lake Worth, Florida

Las Vegas, Nevada

Hillsboro, Oregon

Wilkes Barre, Pennsylvania

Andrews, Texas

Austin, Texas(2 reports)

Dallas, Texas

Houston, Texas(2 reports)

Mission, Texas

San Antonio, Texas(2 reports)

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Aloe vera – oh how we love and need you! Often times called just Aloe, this is a great plant to have around your home. This succulent is truly a plant with purpose and so handy to have in the kitchen or bathroom. These care tips for growing Aloe vera as a houseplant will help keep yours in tip-top shape.

Aloe barbidensis, its fancy botanic name, has been used throughout the centuries for its healing properties. I grew mine outdoors in Santa Barbara and do the same here in Tucson. When I lived in colder climates, many moons ago, I grew it indoors. There are a few important points to know about growing this as a houseplant which I’ll summarize at the end.

Aloe Vera: An Easy Care Succulent That’s Easy To Grow Indoors

Size

Outdoors, Aloe vera reaches 2′ tall & clumps & spreads. I’ve seen it as wide as 3′. Indoors it grows slower & will most likely max out at 18″ x 18″ although older ones can be even larger.

The larger it gets, the heavier it gets because those large leaves store a lot of water & of course the gooey gel.

Light

This succulent needs bright, natural light to grow successfully & for those leaves to get nice & plump. A south or west exposure in your home is best. East can be fine too as long as it’s close to a window. You want to rotate it every 6 months or so to make sure the light it’s receiving is even on all sides.

In winter you may have to move it to a sunnier spot as the light levels are lower & the days are shorter. In summer be sure to keep it out of any hot, sunny windows because that can burn the leaves. If you have a dark home or apartment, this plant will be a no go.

Watering

3 words – easy does it, when it comes to frequency. This fleshy succulent stores a lot of water in its leaves & thick roots. You want to water your Aloe vera every 2-4 weeks, depending on your environmental conditions.

Water it thoroughly, perhaps by taking it to the sink, & make sure all the water drains out. A drain hole or holes guarantees this. You never want your Aloe to sit in a saucer full of water so make sure to empty that out too. Water again when the soil is dry or nearly so.

The smaller the pot or the warmer or drier your conditions, the more often you’ll need to water. In winter, like with all houseplants, water less. Here’s a post I’ve done called houseplant watering 101 to help you out with that.

With this plant, it’s best to water less often than more often. If you Aloe begins to smell, then it’s rotting out. Dark, transparent spots or crimping at the base of the leaves are also signs of too much water.

Here’s a good-sized Aloe leaf cut open. You can see all the gel & liquid that the leaves hold.

Humidity

Lack of humidity in our homes can be a problem for other houseplants, but not the Aloe vera. It takes the dry air in our homes just fine. Mine grows outside here in the desert & has minimal brown tipping.

Just avoid misting your Aloe vera – it doesn’t need it & could rot out. If the leaves have gotten dirty & dusty, you can spray them off with water once or twice a year. Just avoid doing this in winter.

Fertilizing

Aloe vera isn’t fussy or needy in regards to fertilizing. It would appreciate a feeding once a year in spring. I sprinkle a thin layer of worm castings on all my container plants, indoors & out. You could also use a balanced houseplant fertilizer, kelp or fish emulsion.

Soil

As with any succulent, the water needs to drain out & the roots need to go almost dry before watering again. A succulent & cactus mix is the best because it ensures good drainage & aeration. If it’s in potting soil because that’s all you have, just be sure to water even less often.

Propagation

This is easiest & best done (in my opinion!) by removal & division of those pups. These are the babies which grow off the base of the mother plant. It’s best to wait until the pups are a good size before you remove them because that way the roots are much better formed. I’m doing a post & video to show how to do this very soon so check back in for that.

It can also be done by seed but that’s much more time-consuming. I’ve been told that propagation by leaf cuttings is a no go but I plan on experimenting with that real soon.

You might have noticed that your Aloe pups are spotted with white while the mother plant is solid green. It’s just how it goes with the babies & they’ll eventually loose that variegation.

Transplanting

Anytime is fine to transplant an Aloe vera but try to avoid the winter months if you can. This plant gets heavy as it grows so it can be a challenge with a large one.

Don’t rush to transplant your Aloe vera because it actually produces pups more readily when slightly potbound. Every 2-4 years will be fine or when you see the roots coming out the drain hole.

Pests

My Aloe veras in Santa Barbara always gots orange aphids late in spring or early in summer. I just hosed them off. Mealybugs can also be a problem because they love to hang out in the crevices of the leaves.

There’s a mite specific to aloes called the aloe mite but rarely will one get infested indoors. Mine here in Tucson hasn’t been attacked by anything & that goes for the Aloe veras I grown as houseplants.

Problems

Oh yes my friend, there’s sometimes the bad with the good! One of the problems is rot which I touched on in watering. The plant starts turning soft & then to total mush.

If you see the leaves turning shades of yellow, brown or red, this is due to environmental stress. This could be too cold, sun too strong & hot, too little water. This is what caused my Aloe to stress & what I did about it.

This is what a stressed plant can look like. The leaves have turned brownish-red due to the strong desert sun & most likely a lack of water. You can see how the leaves are smaller & much less plump than my Aloe’s. Even though this is growing outside, I wanted to show you because something similar could happen to yours indoors.

Harvesting

I always take the whole leaf off, all the way back to the base or main stem. Do this with a clean, sharp knife for a clean cut. You can cut just a part of the leaf off but you’ll wind up with a big scab on the end. I think removing the whole leaf looks so much better. Remember, this plant grows slowly so you may have to wait a while before you reap the benefits.

Uses

There’s a lot of info out there on the net regarding how to use Aloe vera. Here’s how I use it: for burns & skin irritations, as a hair mask, facial moisturizer, as a shave gel & in smoothies. I do none of these on a daily basis but always find aloe to be extremely beneficial when I do.

Flowers

Yes, Aloe veras flower. Mine growing outdoors has produced yellow flowers in late spring as they’ve gotten older. I’ve never had one bloom indoors by the way.

Aloe is easy as can be & a great plant to have in your home. Here are the most important points for growing aloe vera successfully:

Aloe vera needs bright, bright natural light but be sure to keep out of sunny, hot windows.

Don’t over water this plant by doing it too often. Let it dry almost completely out before watering again. It’s a succulent!

Rotate it every 6 months or so if it’s not getting light from all around.

Make sure the mix has excellent drainage.

Aloe will do best in pots with a drain hole(s).

The yellow flowers of a well established Aloe vera.

Aloe veras do just fine in plastic, fiberglass or ceramic pots but I think terra cotta suits them to a T. It’s just a great combo. Your Aloe would love to vacation outdoors for the summer but just be careful it doesn’t get too much rain because it could “mush out”.

Aloe vera is in our care guide Keep Your Houseplants Alive if you’re craving more houseplant goodness and guidance.

Isn’t it about time for you to get an Aloe vera or 2? If you can’t find them locally, then be sure to check this source out online.

Happy gardening,

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